Bobs 33 build

**Bgardner** · 06-19-2018, 05:48 PM

Hey guys

Received my kit early May and making some slow progress, been too excited to work on it to take time and post some pics. Anyway I will post my progress to date and hopefully keep this part up.

garage waiting for kitIMG_3288.JPG

Pick up across border in Sumas WashingtonIMG_3357.jpg IMG_3362.jpg

In Canada we need to order some (a lot) of the parts in a Canadian kit to allow us to bring over the border so I also had some of the parts earlyIMG_3181.jpg

**Bgardner** · 06-19-2018, 06:02 PM

Wanted to powder coat front end parts and powder coater didn't want anything to do with pieces(ball joints) having grease on them. found it easy enough to grind the welds and remove ball jointsAttachment 87532

Started on the back end and all went goodAttachment 87533 Attachment 87534

**Bgardner** · 06-19-2018, 06:18 PM

received parts back from powder coating and started on front end, realized I had 2 drivers side lower control arms IMG_3453.jpg

Contacted FFR and they sent me 1 for passenger side, I removed ball joint and powder coated myself as this will fit in small oven I have. Happy with results and will now work on completing front end IMG_3474.jpg

**Bgardner** · 06-19-2018, 06:24 PM

I have pedal box installed now, doing some research on hydraulic slave clutch IMG_3439.JPG

anybody with any pics or info would be appreciated

Just put cable parts in for now

**Bgardner** · 06-19-2018, 06:30 PM

getting ready to place firewall, a little hesitant as I want to make sure everything lines up with body. I was thinking of temporary putting main body in place but think I will need to at least put a couple of screws in IMG_3430.JPG

seems to be some talk of fitting problems but I think a lot might be old post, anybody have any input?

**AJT '33** · 06-20-2018, 07:37 AM

Originally Posted by Bgardner

getting ready to place firewall, a little hesitant as I want to make sure everything lines up with body. I was thinking of temporary putting main body in place but think I will need to at least put a couple of screws in IMG_3430.JPG

seems to be some talk of fitting problems but I think a lot might be old post, anybody have any input?

Highly suggest you make sure the frame is level side to side and front to back. Set the bottom of the firewall (area between the two clamps that have the one with the orange tip, see picture) flush with the frame member at that location, make sure that bottom end is level as well. If you don't then you will be trimming (I used a belt sander) to "massage the top of the firewall to fit exactly the indentation on the body. This will also make sure that the bottom lip of the body on each side sits flush or just below the frame on each side of the firewall and the door openings. If I do it again I would have prefit the body and the firewall together per the Assembly Guide with the correct measurements which would have saved me a lot of fit problems before hand. I would also flush fit (no gaps around the doors) the fiberglass doors at the same time as well. FFR have made some changes which help this alignment based on some of the polder kits however some attention should be paid attention to when setting this up, this is in my eyes, the most critical part of the build as it sets up the rest of the body and parts. Have fun!!
PS> Clecos will be your best friend and WELL WORTH the investment!!!
IMG_3430.JPG

**Bgardner** · 06-25-2018, 02:46 PM

Thanks AJT
I did get the body on temporary and fit to the firewall, I did need to shape passenger side of fire wall to get a good fit in the indentation of the body. All seems to be straight and balanced side to sideFirewall.JPG Temp body fit.JPG

The flange bearing for the steering comes through the firewall but is located against part of the frame, this is preventing the firewall from sitting flat. has anybody come up with a solution, I am probably powder coating firewall and think this bulge will show.Firewall flange bearing.JPG

**myjones** · 06-25-2018, 06:20 PM

Originally Posted by AJT '33

Highly suggest you make sure the frame is level side to side and front to back. Set the bottom of the firewall (area between the two clamps that have the one with the orange tip, see picture) flush with the frame member at that location, make sure that bottom end is level as well. If you don't then you will be trimming (I used a belt sander) to "massage the top of the firewall to fit exactly the indentation on the body. This will also make sure that the bottom lip of the body on each side sits flush or just below the frame on each side of the firewall and the door openings. If I do it again I would have prefit the body and the firewall together per the Assembly Guide with the correct measurements which would have saved me a lot of fit problems before hand. I would also flush fit (no gaps around the doors) the fiberglass doors at the same time as well. FFR have made some changes which help this alignment based on some of the polder kits however some attention should be paid attention to when setting this up, this is in my eyes, the most critical part of the build as it sets up the rest of the body and parts. Have fun!!
PS> Clecos will be your best friend and WELL WORTH the investment!!!
IMG_3430.JPG

If you do it that way the cowl will not be level, The body mold is not symmetric and the PS of the body needs lifted 1/4 off of the
chassis to make up for that. Set a 4' level centered on the cowl just behind the firewall with blocks under each end to clear the
rounded body shape and check it out. A lot of the 33's when done look wonky from the front because of that issue. You can do
a search about notching the bottom of the firewall and find a few threads on this detail. Once you have the cowl/body level and
the chassis level then you can notch and fit the firewall up against the body with a belt sander etc. That plus plumbing the radiator
properly will hide/prevent the wonky front view on the 33.

Dale

**Bgardner** · 07-28-2018, 11:38 AM

Firewall fitted all good
firewall fitted.JPG

**Tampa33Build** · 07-30-2018, 08:38 PM

I have been struggling with the same issue for my setup with bike fenders and the IRS. Looks like 17" is the smallest that will fit over the 12.88" brakes. Been struggling with what the maximum backspace the rear wheels can have.

**AJT '33** · 07-31-2018, 04:55 AM

Originally Posted by Tampa33Build

I have been struggling with the same issue for my setup with bike fenders and the IRS. Looks like 17" is the smallest that will fit over the 12.88" brakes. Been struggling with what the maximum backspace the rear wheels can have.

17" is the smallest rim size recommended by FFR. I ended up with 18" and can see how 17" would have been the tightest. I also have an IRS and front floating fenders. You will need to shim the fenders in the front accordingly. I ended up with 18x10 in the back and 18x9 in the front and the floating fenders just fit over the tire in the front.

**FF33rod** · 08-02-2018, 04:29 PM

So the manual states that if you're using fenders the max for the rear is 11 inch width, 6 inch backspace and 315 tread. Ignoring for a moment that a 315 tire is over the max size for an 11 inch wide wheel, what's wrong with going with the 11 in width and 6 inch backspace numbers? Steve

**progmgr1** · 08-02-2018, 05:09 PM

It probably depends on which rear end you are using. I have the 2015 IRS, and a 6" backspace would put the inner rim of the wheel into the bodywork for sure, and maybe into the chassis. I am running 305/35-20 tires on 10" wide wheels with a 4" backspace.

You may find this wheel / tire size comparator useful to visualize what's going on:
http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

HTH, Keith

**FF33rod** · 08-02-2018, 11:42 PM

If the IRS is so different wonder why they don't have numbers in the appendix for that option.... Something to bug them about at the build class

I hadn't seen that calculator before, good find.

305s on a 10 inch wheel? That's quite a bit larger than what I've seen stated as the max for 10", https://www.tyresizecalculator.com/t...dth-calculator

**progmgr1** · 08-03-2018, 06:27 PM

Looking at the tire specification page for the BFG Comp 2 A/S that I bought, a rim width range of 10-12.5" is shown. https://www.discounttiredirect.com/b...-2-a-s/p/29866 Granted, it's at the bottom of the range - but if the tire manufacturer is good with it then so am I. I also like the way it looks.

Also, FWIW, the Build School is not affiliated with Factory Five Racing. That's good, in that they can give you unbiased opinions about kit shortcomings and tips on alternate assembly methods not described in the build manual. Not so good is that they have no direct influence over the build manuals or product designs, although they do have a close working relationship with FFR that does lead to some cross-fertilization of ideas. I highly recommend going. It's well worth the time and expense IMHO.

Keith

**Bgardner** · 08-07-2018, 12:21 PM

Nice to see all the comments

with everyone having slightly different setups every little detail changes things

Seeing Keith go with a 10" rim 305 tire and 4" backspace makes me confident that a 10" rim 275 tire and 4 1/2" backspace will work.

with the IRS when car is lifted and suspension hanging the tire will come in closer to inside of wheelwell. As mentioned it would be nice if FFR put out specs for when setup includes IRS

Bob

**Bgardner** · 10-26-2018, 05:50 PM

Sorry guys its been a bit, busy summer is now in rear view mirror.

Rims arrivedFoose rim.JPG

Sizes worked Foose rear size.JPG Foose front size.JPG Wheels fender front.JPG Wheels on car.JPG Wheels back on car.JPG Wheels back on car.JPG

Front has equal clearance for bicycle fenders, from measurement with tape measure backs will sit nicely with outside of fenders and clear inside. Will check when body on how much clearance from inside of wheel well, 10 will work not sure if the 11" would

**Bgardner** · 10-26-2018, 05:53 PM

Gas tank installed along with electric fuel pump and the filter

gas tank.JPG fuel pump filter.JPG

**Bgardner** · 10-26-2018, 05:55 PM

Painted back side of firewall, floor boards and other parts with lizard skin. did 2 coats of sound barrier and 2 coats of heat barrier. found product excellent.

lizard skin spray 2.JPG

**CVOBill** · 10-27-2018, 08:13 AM

Looking good

**Tampa33Build** · 10-27-2018, 03:03 PM

I like the tread pattern of the tires. What brand and size are they?

**Bgardner** · 10-28-2018, 01:07 PM

Originally Posted by Tampa33Build

I like the tread pattern of the tires. What brand and size are they?

Tires are BFGoodrich G-Force Comp 2

I used 225/50 17 and 275/40 17

**Bgardner** · 11-12-2018, 06:51 PM

Front grill installed, threw hood on to see the look
front grill.JPG

With radiator installed I ran the hoses, as I am not installing a heater I assume I can just run a hose from water pump to intake manifold.
heater hose 1.JPG Heater hose 2.JPG

Can anyone confirm this is good, I,ve seen some people loop the 2 contentions from the water pump and not sure if that was right.

**Bgardner** · 01-24-2019, 10:08 PM

Catching up

Its been a bit since I posted but hard to take any free time I have and not put it towards the build

Here,s a pic of the future ownerIMG_4293.jpg

**Bgardner** · 01-24-2019, 10:12 PM

My son helped install the 3 bowel reservoir
IMG_4300.JPG IMG_4357.jpg IMG_4418.JPG

**FF33rod** · 01-25-2019, 12:07 PM

Lookin and soundin great Bob!!!

**FF33rod** · 01-26-2019, 03:49 PM

Whatever was wrong it seems to have corrected itself, I see the videos again....

**DS9941** · 03-14-2019, 07:20 PM

looking good

**1932** · 11-13-2019, 01:20 PM

No pics

**FF33rod** · 11-13-2019, 02:33 PM

Originally Posted by 1932

No pics

??? Can't see Bob's pics? I do...

**Bgardner** · 04-25-2021, 02:37 PM

Front plate. can't find a pic of the actual brace I welded up but happy with it and the location. Like I said previous this was attempt 3, Need to make sure I cleared front fender on full turn and also have it stable enough.

Bobs Phone April 2021 4221.jpg

So me and Steve (FF33rod) are In B.C. Canada and I will send out a big THANKS to him for his help and advice on getting car registered and insured as even though I started this project prior to him starting his, he has passed me on the build and I am receiving all the benefits of seeing his progress and steps that need to be taken. End of the day it wasn't that bad just a lot of unknowns, with all the steps I found that if you just walk in there with confidence the staff you are dealing with will listen to you as this is a rare thing for most of them also.

I did decide to go with wipers even though it will be rare for my 33 to see rain.

Bobs Phone April 2021 4276.jpg

Note from that pic, I did need to take the car in for the 4 wheel alignment so I held the front windshield in with clamps, worked OK and I did put about 75 miles on the car although I came out to garage one morning to see a crack in the windshield. Nice added expense to build.

Happy to have put the miles on the car as a few bugs are getting worked out prior to body and paint. With my rims the valve stem just hit the brake calipers just minimal but after some miles I did get a flat. fixed with low to no profile stems.

Bobs Phone April 2021 4085.JPG

I have a leak coming from transmission (TKO 600), its coming from the speedo sensor plug. I have changed the O ring 3 times and still have some leakage. Has anyone else had this problem.

**1932** · 11-14-2019, 12:32 AM

All good

**Bgardner** · 04-25-2021, 02:48 PM

Off to body and paint

off to paint.jpg

Like most of you I am having car painted by a body shop (did see a few blogs with guys doing their own body and paint, hats off to them). Big decision to find the correct shop, some of these guys think that getting to talk to them is a privilege. Found a shop with a great guy who is as excited as me about getting the car done. I did need to transport the car 150 miles and this will make it tough to get by offten to see progresss but he will keep me posted as he goes.

**Bgardner** · 04-25-2021, 02:54 PM

Originally Posted by Bgardner

Off to body and paint

off to paint.jpg

Like most of you I am having car painted by a body shop (did see a few blogs with guys doing their own body and paint, hats off to them). Big decision to find the correct shop, some of these guys think that getting to talk to them is a privilege. Found a shop with a great guy who is as excited as me about getting the car done. I did need to transport the car 150 miles and this will make it tough to get by offten to see progresss but he will keep me posted as he goes.

Bobs Phone April 2021 4314.jpg

Bobs Phone April 2021 4011.jpg

A few last pics before I took it away. This has been 3 years for me, life did carry and needed to balance things out during that time. 2 grandkids added, all I can say is I will need to do another car as I will be happy to pass this one down one day and will need to be fair to have one for each of them (by the way I do have 3 grandkids and 2 cars currently)

**JOP33** · 01-08-2020, 08:10 AM

Like your rear fender cuts!

**Bgardner** · 01-23-2020, 09:36 PM

Thanks, not sure how many rocks/pebbles will be thrown but happy with the look of the shape.

it was fun to copy shape to other side, when done I found out everything is not perfectly balanced but without taking measurements no one will know

IMG_5763.jpg

IMG_5898.jpg

**Bgardner** · 01-23-2020, 10:06 PM

As per previous pics I do have my hardtop on and bolted in place. I will be having a body shop do all my final fit and finish, for the hardtop I will get them to set the curve to fit the body. some of you guys have done a great job with this on your builds.

IMG_5786.JPG

IMG_5382.jpg

I did cut back the window openings, scribed and trimmed. was surprised and happy to see this little clean up made the car look even better.

IMG_5413.jpg

With the hard top I did spin 1 of the rivnuts, very frustrating getting bolt removed. Got lucky but potential problems could cause a lot of damage. Figured out using a clamp to compress the rivnut tool works well and gives a good feel of control.

IMG_5357.jpg

IMG_5358.jpg

**Bgardner** · 01-23-2020, 10:29 PM

Made a walnut wood dash for gauges. started with a flat 5/16 thick piece of walnut and cut it shape of dash with 1/2 inch inset. scribed dash to get shape for form to shape walnut too. the dash curves in and out along with different shape on top and bottom.

IMG_5468.jpg

IMG_5472.jpg

Made a steamer that would allow dash to fit then steamed walnut and clamped in form

IMG_5474.jpg

IMG_5482.jpg

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**Bgardner** · 01-23-2020, 10:39 PM

Made some aluminum fasteners to mount dash. works well with no bolting from back and stays tight, easy to remove and replace.

IMG_5755.jpg

IMG_5757.jpg

IMG_5751.jpg

I mounted the dash out from fiberglass 1/4 inch and put LED lights on the back to reflect off the fiberglass dash (will be painted same colour as body). needed to source a LED strip light that was able to go around the curved shape.

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**Bgardner** · 09-26-2021, 09:18 AM

Happy with my choice to do the fenders with bead.

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