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Thread: Bobs 33 build

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    Bobs 33 build

    Hey guys

    Received my kit early May and making some slow progress, been too excited to work on it to take time and post some pics. Anyway I will post my progress to date and hopefully keep this part up.

    garage waiting for kitIMG_3288.JPG

    Pick up across border in Sumas WashingtonIMG_3357.jpgIMG_3362.jpg

    In Canada we need to order some (a lot) of the parts in a Canadian kit to allow us to bring over the border so I also had some of the parts earlyIMG_3181.jpg

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    Wanted to powder coat front end parts and powder coater didn't want anything to do with pieces(ball joints) having grease on them. found it easy enough to grind the welds and remove ball jointsAttachment 87532

    Started on the back end and all went goodAttachment 87533Attachment 87534

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    received parts back from powder coating and started on front end, realized I had 2 drivers side lower control arms IMG_3453.jpg

    Contacted FFR and they sent me 1 for passenger side, I removed ball joint and powder coated myself as this will fit in small oven I have. Happy with results and will now work on completing front end IMG_3474.jpg

  6. #4
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    I have pedal box installed now, doing some research on hydraulic slave clutch IMG_3439.JPG

    anybody with any pics or info would be appreciated

    Just put cable parts in for now

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    getting ready to place firewall, a little hesitant as I want to make sure everything lines up with body. I was thinking of temporary putting main body in place but think I will need to at least put a couple of screws in IMG_3430.JPG

    seems to be some talk of fitting problems but I think a lot might be old post, anybody have any input?

  8. #6
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bgardner View Post
    getting ready to place firewall, a little hesitant as I want to make sure everything lines up with body. I was thinking of temporary putting main body in place but think I will need to at least put a couple of screws in IMG_3430.JPG

    seems to be some talk of fitting problems but I think a lot might be old post, anybody have any input?
    Highly suggest you make sure the frame is level side to side and front to back. Set the bottom of the firewall (area between the two clamps that have the one with the orange tip, see picture) flush with the frame member at that location, make sure that bottom end is level as well. If you don't then you will be trimming (I used a belt sander) to "massage the top of the firewall to fit exactly the indentation on the body. This will also make sure that the bottom lip of the body on each side sits flush or just below the frame on each side of the firewall and the door openings. If I do it again I would have prefit the body and the firewall together per the Assembly Guide with the correct measurements which would have saved me a lot of fit problems before hand. I would also flush fit (no gaps around the doors) the fiberglass doors at the same time as well. FFR have made some changes which help this alignment based on some of the polder kits however some attention should be paid attention to when setting this up, this is in my eyes, the most critical part of the build as it sets up the rest of the body and parts. Have fun!!
    PS> Clecos will be your best friend and WELL WORTH the investment!!!
    IMG_3430.JPG
    Last edited by AJT '33; 06-20-2018 at 07:39 AM.

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    Thanks AJT
    I did get the body on temporary and fit to the firewall, I did need to shape passenger side of fire wall to get a good fit in the indentation of the body. All seems to be straight and balanced side to sideFirewall.JPGTemp body fit.JPG

    The flange bearing for the steering comes through the firewall but is located against part of the frame, this is preventing the firewall from sitting flat. has anybody come up with a solution, I am probably powder coating firewall and think this bulge will show.Firewall flange bearing.JPG

  10. #8
    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bgardner View Post
    The flange bearing for the steering comes through the firewall but is located against part of the frame, this is preventing the firewall from sitting flat. has anybody come up with a solution, I am probably powder coating firewall and think this bulge will show.Firewall flange bearing.JPG
    Both parts of the flange go on outside of the firewall.. nothing will be on inside. Don't worry, I made the same mistake! https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...980#post281980
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    Highly suggest you make sure the frame is level side to side and front to back. Set the bottom of the firewall (area between the two clamps that have the one with the orange tip, see picture) flush with the frame member at that location, make sure that bottom end is level as well. If you don't then you will be trimming (I used a belt sander) to "massage the top of the firewall to fit exactly the indentation on the body. This will also make sure that the bottom lip of the body on each side sits flush or just below the frame on each side of the firewall and the door openings. If I do it again I would have prefit the body and the firewall together per the Assembly Guide with the correct measurements which would have saved me a lot of fit problems before hand. I would also flush fit (no gaps around the doors) the fiberglass doors at the same time as well. FFR have made some changes which help this alignment based on some of the polder kits however some attention should be paid attention to when setting this up, this is in my eyes, the most critical part of the build as it sets up the rest of the body and parts. Have fun!!
    PS> Clecos will be your best friend and WELL WORTH the investment!!!
    IMG_3430.JPG
    If you do it that way the cowl will not be level, The body mold is not symmetric and the PS of the body needs lifted 1/4 off of the
    chassis to make up for that. Set a 4' level centered on the cowl just behind the firewall with blocks under each end to clear the
    rounded body shape and check it out. A lot of the 33's when done look wonky from the front because of that issue. You can do
    a search about notching the bottom of the firewall and find a few threads on this detail. Once you have the cowl/body level and
    the chassis level then you can notch and fit the firewall up against the body with a belt sander etc. That plus plumbing the radiator
    properly will hide/prevent the wonky front view on the 33.

    Dale

  12. #10
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    If you do it that way the cowl will not be level, The body mold is not symmetric and the PS of the body needs lifted 1/4 off of the
    chassis to make up for that. Set a 4' level centered on the cowl just behind the firewall with blocks under each end to clear the
    rounded body shape and check it out. A lot of the 33's when done look wonky from the front because of that issue. You can do
    a search about notching the bottom of the firewall and find a few threads on this detail. Once you have the cowl/body level and
    the chassis level then you can notch and fit the firewall up against the body with a belt sander etc. That plus plumbing the radiator
    properly will hide/prevent the wonky front view on the 33.

    Dale
    Hey Dale, this is why I levelled the frame, then aligned the body to the frame and then made sure the body was nice and level across the top of the cowl otherwise it slopes from the passenger side to the drivers side when looking at it from the front of the car. it also helps to maintain the centerline of the car with the radiator grill. I will see it better in the next few days as I set my hood and under nose lip and align it to the radiator grill as well. Its a game but once all fit, the body work and fairing should go quickly. I would say this has been the hardest part of the car, aligning all the fiberglass components so they look right and are true to each other so you cant visually see that anything is off. Still love doing this even if its challenging as I know this will be my unique build!

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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Both parts of the flange go on outside of the firewall.. nothing will be on inside. Don't worry, I made the same mistake! https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...980#post281980
    Thanks
    Sometimes we just get blinders on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    Hey Dale, this is why I levelled the frame, then aligned the body to the frame and then made sure the body was nice and level across the top of the cowl otherwise it slopes from the passenger side to the drivers side when looking at it from the front of the car. it also helps to maintain the centerline of the car with the radiator grill. I will see it better in the next few days as I set my hood and under nose lip and align it to the radiator grill as well. Its a game but once all fit, the body work and fairing should go quickly. I would say this has been the hardest part of the car, aligning all the fiberglass components so they look right and are true to each other so you cant visually see that anything is off. Still love doing this even if its challenging as I know this will be my unique build!
    Thanks guys

    So from deciphering this if I level the frame and level the cowl I should be good on the front, I will look for 2 symmetrical points on the back end to also measure to or level to.

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    Firewall fitted all good
    firewall fitted.JPG

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    ran brake lines
    brake lines 2.JPGbrake lines 3.JPGbrake lines 4.JPG

    for the front drivers side I did need to replace the 8" line supplied with a longer one all I could get was a 20" so I added a loop and all worked out.

    cable clutch system will be removed and replaced with master cylinder for hydraulic clutch slave so lots of room above pedal box

    going to temp mount a reservoir so I can test the lines, once engine in and tin on back there will be minimal access to these lines. after engine in I will decide on a reservoir, I have seen a few 3 joined reservoir units.

  17. Likes FF33rod liked this post
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    tough time deciding on wheels.

    with ever set up being a little different its not as easy as looking up a set size. seems pretty tight to go with a maximum 11" on back as per FFR. with the IRS spindle moves a lot closer to body when car lifted. I am pretty set on 10" with a 4 1/2" backspace.

    The 6 piston front caliper also limits style of wheels to get clearance. still waiting on some feedback from US Mags (I did choose a Foose wheel but it would not clear the Wilwood 6 piston caliper)

    back test wheel.JPGtest wheel 2.JPGtest wheels.JPGwood wheels 2.JPGwood wheels.JPG

    I borrowed a friends winter wheels for a mustang to help figure out clearances and also made some wood wheels. Wood wheels really helped getting measurements

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  20. #16
    Member Tampa33Build's Avatar
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    I have been struggling with the same issue for my setup with bike fenders and the IRS. Looks like 17" is the smallest that will fit over the 12.88" brakes. Been struggling with what the maximum backspace the rear wheels can have.

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    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tampa33Build View Post
    I have been struggling with the same issue for my setup with bike fenders and the IRS. Looks like 17" is the smallest that will fit over the 12.88" brakes. Been struggling with what the maximum backspace the rear wheels can have.
    17" is the smallest rim size recommended by FFR. I ended up with 18" and can see how 17" would have been the tightest. I also have an IRS and front floating fenders. You will need to shim the fenders in the front accordingly. I ended up with 18x10 in the back and 18x9 in the front and the floating fenders just fit over the tire in the front.

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  23. #18
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    So the manual states that if you're using fenders the max for the rear is 11 inch width, 6 inch backspace and 315 tread. Ignoring for a moment that a 315 tire is over the max size for an 11 inch wide wheel, what's wrong with going with the 11 in width and 6 inch backspace numbers? Steve

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    It probably depends on which rear end you are using. I have the 2015 IRS, and a 6" backspace would put the inner rim of the wheel into the bodywork for sure, and maybe into the chassis. I am running 305/35-20 tires on 10" wide wheels with a 4" backspace.

    You may find this wheel / tire size comparator useful to visualize what's going on:
    http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

    HTH, Keith

  25. #20
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    If the IRS is so different wonder why they don't have numbers in the appendix for that option.... Something to bug them about at the build class
    I hadn't seen that calculator before, good find.

    305s on a 10 inch wheel? That's quite a bit larger than what I've seen stated as the max for 10", https://www.tyresizecalculator.com/t...dth-calculator

  26. #21

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    Looking at the tire specification page for the BFG Comp 2 A/S that I bought, a rim width range of 10-12.5" is shown. https://www.discounttiredirect.com/b...-2-a-s/p/29866 Granted, it's at the bottom of the range - but if the tire manufacturer is good with it then so am I. I also like the way it looks.

    Also, FWIW, the Build School is not affiliated with Factory Five Racing. That's good, in that they can give you unbiased opinions about kit shortcomings and tips on alternate assembly methods not described in the build manual. Not so good is that they have no direct influence over the build manuals or product designs, although they do have a close working relationship with FFR that does lead to some cross-fertilization of ideas. I highly recommend going. It's well worth the time and expense IMHO.

    Keith

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    Nice to see all the comments

    with everyone having slightly different setups every little detail changes things

    Seeing Keith go with a 10" rim 305 tire and 4" backspace makes me confident that a 10" rim 275 tire and 4 1/2" backspace will work.

    with the IRS when car is lifted and suspension hanging the tire will come in closer to inside of wheelwell. As mentioned it would be nice if FFR put out specs for when setup includes IRS

    Bob

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    Sorry guys its been a bit, busy summer is now in rear view mirror.

    Rims arrivedFoose rim.JPG

    Sizes worked Foose rear size.JPGFoose front size.JPGWheels fender front.JPGWheels on car.JPGWheels back on car.JPGWheels back on car.JPG

    Front has equal clearance for bicycle fenders, from measurement with tape measure backs will sit nicely with outside of fenders and clear inside. Will check when body on how much clearance from inside of wheel well, 10 will work not sure if the 11" would

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    Gas tank installed along with electric fuel pump and the filter

    gas tank.JPGfuel pump filter.JPG

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    Painted back side of firewall, floor boards and other parts with lizard skin. did 2 coats of sound barrier and 2 coats of heat barrier. found product excellent.

    lizard skin spray 2.JPG

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    I did go to the build school in August, met some good guys.

    instituter did a good smoke show with the build.Build school burn out.JPG

    If someone from the course is on line and has the video of the donuts it would be a good post. I will try and get it from one of the guys.

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    Ended up getting a painter to do the firewall after seeing results from my attempt with a spray bomb, highly recommended to get a professional finish on it unless you have spray equipment at homeFirewall install.JPGFirewall 2.JPG

  34. #28
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    received engine from blueprint, 347 stroker carbureted with TKO 600 trannyblueprint engine.JPG

    installed a external slave cylinder for the clutch MDL external slave.JPGClutch external slace.JPG going to adjust angle on bracket and put some added support.

    Needed to remove electric power steering and linkage to get to engine mount nut
    engine mount nut.JPGengine mount.JPG

    Engine installedengine in 2.JPGengine in 3.JPG

  35. #29
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    Looking good
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

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    I like the tread pattern of the tires. What brand and size are they?

  37. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tampa33Build View Post
    I like the tread pattern of the tires. What brand and size are they?
    Tires are BFGoodrich G-Force Comp 2

    I used 225/50 17 and 275/40 17

  38. #32
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    Front grill installed, threw hood on to see the look
    front grill.JPG

    With radiator installed I ran the hoses, as I am not installing a heater I assume I can just run a hose from water pump to intake manifold.
    heater hose 1.JPGHeater hose 2.JPG

    Can anyone confirm this is good, I,ve seen some people loop the 2 contentions from the water pump and not sure if that was right.

  39. #33
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    Catching up

    Its been a bit since I posted but hard to take any free time I have and not put it towards the build

    Here,s a pic of the future ownerIMG_4293.jpg

  40. #34
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    My son helped install the 3 bowel reservoir
    IMG_4300.JPGIMG_4357.jpgIMG_4418.JPG

  41. #35
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    installed hydraulic slave for clutch
    IMG_4164.jpgIMG_4248.JPGIMG_4414.JPG

    Added a piece of metal for bracket extra support as you can see in last picture

  42. #36
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    Gas tank, filter and electric pump installed

    IMG_4238.JPGIMG_4239.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images

  43. #37
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    Gas pedal and throttle line
    IMG_4470.JPGIMG_4472.JPG

    Will need to do some fiberglass work on transmission tunnel, a lot taken out but with TKO 600 I do have room. With this I am just to say comfortable with room for 3 pedals

  44. #38
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    coolant Overflow and fuel line doneIMG_4476.JPG

  45. #39
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    My grandson checking out how his ride is coming along. Told his mother he can take the 33 when he goes and gets his licence.
    IMG_4509.JPGIMG_4511.JPG

  46. #40
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    Test fit of body
    IMG_4524.jpgIMG_4534.JPG

    Checking out fenders and offset, thinking of trimming at blue tape edge
    IMG_4562.JPGIMG_4563.JPG

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