Starting stage 1 ONLY with no motor- What to do first?

[33PizzaGuy]

Have stage 1 with 8.8" Moser rear end but no motor until 2 months from BluePrint Engines= What to do first? Obviously I can do the front suspension, rear supsension,brake lines etc. What not to do until I get the motor? Can I do the riveting for the interior body panels and rear where gas tank is etc? Any suggestions are very appreciative. Thanks

[Svtfreak]

Can work on aluminum. Don’t do trans tunnel. Can do all suspension and steering. Brakes, fuel tank and lines up to regulator if you know where it’s mounting. Can do radiator and grill as it’s easy to remove. Everything behind the dash (ac/heat etc if using it). Can even start wiring and run all the rear stuff. Even front stuff if you know where you want it to run.

[JimLev]

I wouldn't put the floors or back panels in until you get the exhaust and wiring done. Much easier to do it from the top side than fron under the car. If you have a lift you could do it from the underneath but it will be easier from the top when the car is down low.
You could start drilling holes in the aluminum and the frame, run wires, etc

[rychi1]

Do you have clecos? In addition to what SVT said you can get all of the firewall and interior aluminum panels drilled and then cleco them in place. That way you can still access the brake lines, exhaust, wiring, and anything else you need to.

[JimLev]

Yes, I'm using clecos. You can drill all of the panels and cleco them in place. For the firewall I used 10x32 screws just in case I ever wanted to remove the FW. Tapping all of the holes takes time.
I'm pretty sure the only panels that I'm going to rivet in will be the floor panels, all the rest will be screwed in place.

[HVACMAN]

Yes, I'm using clecos. You can drill all of the panels and cleco them in place. For the firewall I used 10x32 screws just in case I ever wanted to remove the FW. Tapping all of the holes takes time.
I'm pretty sure the only panels that I'm going to rivet in will be the floor panels, all the rest will be screwed in place.

You can use a 10-32 drill/tap. It drills the hole and taps it all at the same time. It will save a ton of time.

[erlihemi]

If your highly confident of your engine and header selection you might be able to start the exhaust routing once the rear diff is mounted. It is so much easier to get a custom exhaust routed with the car at this stage. Just remember it may have to come out someday with the sheet metal and body still on. Definitely find your centerline and mark up for sheet metal. This is a good time to think about any modifications like E-Brake positions, tunnel mods, and seat mounting. Good Luck !!

[RoadRacer]

If your highly confident of your engine and header selection you might be able to start the exhaust routing once the rear diff is mounted. It is so much easier to get a custom exhaust routed with the car at this stage. Just remember it may have to come out someday with the sheet metal and body still on. Definitely find your centerline and mark up for sheet metal. This is a good time to think about any modifications like E-Brake positions, tunnel mods, and seat mounting. Good Luck !!

but exhaust comes with stage 2..?

almost everything in stage 1 can be done without the motor, so you won't have any shortage of things to do! brake lines is one of the first things to do.. gets harder the more you've built - even the front shocks are in the way. In hindsight, i'd do rearend, pedal box, brake lines very first thing.

[NAZ]

First thing (if you haven't done this already) is to visualize what you want the car to look like. Search the internet for cars similar to what you want yours to look like when done and clip out some photos to hang around the shop. It will not only keep you focused on the end result but will also be inspirational when things get tough.

Assuming you have completed the inventory and staged parts ready to install them the next thing BEFORE you start assembling anything, and especially before drilling holes -- mark the centerline of your chassis. I use a combination of center punch witness marks and where appropriate drill 1/8" holes to make permanent centerline marks. If you don't know where the center of the car is you'll have a hard time keeping things aligned during the build. And if you later bend something while out driving the car you have a datum to check for misaligned chassis members.

[33PizzaGuy]

Wow, thank you guys for the info here. I have clekos and will use them to hold things in place. I won't get stage 2 till end of year it looks like so I will have a brand new stroker with 700R4 and only stage 1. One question I have is the 8.8" rear end got shipped from Moser and in the manual I don't see a section on how to install rear brakes. Unless Im missing something.

[33PizzaGuy]

I will also start a forum on my build and hope I get people to follow and share thoughts.

[33PizzaGuy]

How do I start a build thread? So confusing.

[RoadRacer]

How do I start a build thread? So confusing.

Just start a new thread in https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/foru...eads-33-HotRod - most call it "Joe's build" or include the build number (e.g. #997). Bookmark it and go back to that thread and keep posting whenever you've made progress!

[NAZ]

Pizza Guy, if you ordered the Wilwood rear brake kit it will come with instructions. If you haven't received them yet and want to review the instructions go to the Wilwood site and search for Factory Five Racing brake kits, the rear is part number 140-12049 and you can download the instructions as well as a fitment guide to help you select wheels. These large brakes will require larger wheels. But if you want the large brakes and run 15" wheels it can be done -- just can't use the calipers that come in this kit.

[TDSapp]

PizzaGuy,

If you have not ordered the Wilwood rear brake kit then you will have to get the rear brakes from somewhere else. The hot rod comes with front brakes but not with rear brakes.

If you want new stock brakes you can get a kit from Summit racing that includes everything. This is the kit that I bought.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-kc1303-26


This kit includes the calipers with brackets, drilled and slotted rotors, and the break pads, clips and etc... It was $240.98 plus a $50.00 core charge if you don't already have a set to return them.

[RoadRacer]

PizzaGuy,

If you have not ordered the Wilwood rear brake kit then you will have to get the rear brakes from somewhere else. The hot rod comes with front brakes but not with rear brakes.

If you want new stock brakes you can get a kit from Summit racing that includes everything. This is the kit that I bought.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-kc1303-26

Similarly, I reused the calipers that came with my junker rear and bought this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-K1303-26 - with the intent that it'll be 'good enough' to get started and can always upgrade brakes - mustangs have a lot of upgrade options!

[Arrowhead]

You could do the bodywork first, that'd take a couple months

[RoadRacer]

You could do the bodywork first, that'd take a couple months

"Starting stage 1 ONLY.."

[33PizzaGuy]

great info. Thank you