New Premium Dashboard - Blind Fitment?

[cv2065]

Hey all. Kit should be coming soon (hopefully next week), so getting some last minute pieces together.

Question around the plastic upgraded dash with glove box. I'll be using that one, and have looked at Paul's blind installation of his metal dash without any screws in the front of the dash. I like this cleaner look, but realize that the plastic on the new dash represents an issue to do this, as it looks to be hard to find anything that will stick to it so that rear fastening brackets can be used.

I've went through a few threads and haven't seen anyone work this out yet, but wanted to throw it out there in case I've missed anything. Thanks.

[Railroad]

Mine is not mounted yet, but have purchased some commercial grade velcro. I hope to use the braces on the bottom of the dash and velcro across the top edge. I mounted my behind the dash power distribution box with it and was pleased with the results.

[CraigS]

When you get the dash, look for one of those small molded in markers that tells you what type plastic it is. Then go to 3M or similar and check for glue that works w/ that type.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recycling_codes
I think railroad's idea may also work IF you can design a lower mount to take the weight of the dash. I am sure velcroes vary in quality but I have had the 'industrial' stuff come loose inside a hot car in the summer so not sure I would trust it completely by itself. Also, If you go that route, be sure to place your velcro at locations where you can slide something like a credit card in between them to separate them ie; not right above the tach or speedo. The top of the dash is captured by the edge of the body. Usually dash clearance to body is determined by how much you grind off the underneath body edge so often the dash will only move maybe 1/8 inch before it needs to drop down before being pulled rearward from the steel hoop. Pls let us know what you decide on.

[phileas_fogg]

When I was considering mounting options for my aluminum dash, I did some tests with velcro on some scrap frame and found that the glue didn't adhere to the powder coat very well. I had better luck with the glue sticking to bare metal.

In the end, I didn't use a velcro type fastener because the thickness pushed the dash too far away from the hoop. By the time I added room to separate the material, I would have had to take too much off the underside of the dash cowl.

If I were mounting a plastic dash I'd do as CraigS suggests and see if I could find a suitable glue/epoxy, and then use that to bond 90* tabs that bolted to the underside of the dash hoop.


John

[cv2065]

I like the commercial grade velcro idea that Railroad points out, but as Craig mentioned, my fear is that the velcro will come off in the hot Florida climate down the road and then I'd have to deal with a floppy dash. I just sent Mark a note from Replica Parts, and will be getting the under dash filler panel. Not sure if this will give any support to the dash from below as I don't know how it attaches to the frame. I guess worst case scenario is that I get black headed screws for the front and they would be 'almost' unnoticeable. I will see what type of plastic it is and check out any compatible glues or epoxies. I'll let you guys know what I find out.

[RR20AC]

I used this which is permanent. A scratch awl provided some roughness to bond to.

[cv2065]

I used this which is permanent. A scratch awl provided some roughness to bond to.

Thanks! Can I ask how you mounted it? Can't tell what you did in the picture.

[RR20AC]

brass rods inserted through door openings. They slide through 18 tubes fastened to the back of the hoop and the plastic dash

[RJD]

I used 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener velcro - TB3550 250/250, bought on Amazon to mount my upgrade dash. Feels very solid when combined with the lower support panels.

[CraigS]

I used this which is permanent. A scratch awl provided some roughness to bond to.

Oh yeah, 3M 5200. The standard setup time version is what fiberglass boats are bonded together with. Screws every 8-10 inches to pull the parts together and 5200 on the entire joint. Back when I was heavy into sailboats (before the wonders of the web) there was a highly respected DIY boating magazine. One issue they tested a lot of bonding glues. The result w/ 3M5200? Unless the design is such that you can get a knife directly in between the two bonded parts to cut the 5200, you will destroy one part or the other trying to separate them.

[Al_C]

Here's an idea I got from Tony at FFR. (who knows, maybe he'll chime in...) Truthfully, I considered it, but went a different route. And I have an aluminum dash with a veneer on it. Here's the idea: don't fasten the dash to the frame hoop at all. Attach the ends to the frame, and support the center of the dash with a brace up from the transmission tunnel. Apparently, you can get this part from FFR. It's effectively two tubes rising up from the trans tunnel to the dash. Gumball has something similar, and if you look at some of his photos, you can see it. I saw this approach used on one of the FFR cars on display at Huntington Beach a year ago. The body will hold the dash in place front to back (the dash will slip between the body and the frame) and the tubes will support the bottom. You wouldn't see the mounting screws on the ends because they're effectively covered by the body.

[cv2065]

I have that piece from FFR coming. I’ll check it out. Thanks!

[Kpt112]

I have a dash that uses finish caps to hide the screws. Since my dash is black the screw heads just blend in.

2.jpg

Here is my dash with vinyl carbon fiber look. IMG_0480.jpg
I used a piece of MDF to mount the CF vinyl on. Notice the small screw cap above the head of the Cobra Badge. I also have one on the other side.
I have the dash mounted underneath with a trim panel that sits below the dash. The gauges and the steering wheel do a lot to hold the whole thing in place.

Good Luck