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Thread: Octobersknight's 818 Build

  1. #41
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    I almost feel like i don't want to admit this, but I might as well confess - I do, on rare occasions, idiotic things. Example:

    The RTV that plugged the oil channels on the cam cover also glued in the oil seals. So to get the camshafts loose from the cover I really had to pull up on them hard. Oily gloves and a hard pull on a heavy object makes for problems. Physics . One of those suckers went flying out of my hands, bounced off the nearby WRX seats and workbench, fell onto the engine stand leg, then rolled to the floor. Not good. Engine stand has a nice dent where the shaft hit.

    So I took it to my machinist buddy, who put it on the lathe and checked the runout. NO PROBLEM. Also, no visible damage on any of the cam lobes themselves. Thank God for solid camshafts and hardened steel - and also for soft(ish) steel engine stands.
    Last edited by octobersknight; 08-08-2018 at 07:47 PM.

  2. #42
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    LH head removal and piston check

    So now that the camshafts were out and I removed the ARP head nuts/washers, I got my first look at the LH pistons.
    P1080231.jpg

    And the head.
    P1080232.jpg

    ALL STOP. What in the name of hell is that on the head? Some potentially serious damage. GROAN. Looks like at some point in the past it threw a valve or something. I'm hoping there's not more than the dome damage, because the piston and cylinder walls look okay but some deformation is close to a valve (hopefully not on a valve seat, fingers crossed).
    IMG_20180111_192844.jpg P1080236.jpg


    So here's all my parts laid out nicely on the bench so I can keep track of what's what.
    P1080233.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 08-08-2018 at 07:47 PM.

  3. #43
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Head machining

    Since the heads were off, it was time to get them faced flat. They were actually very flat when I checked them with a machinist straightedge and feeler gauges (under 0.002" at the worst location, most places were under 0.001"), but I figured better safe than sorry. I also planned on a valve job too, since I know the guides can go south first. And I wanted them to grind the valve seats to make sure I had a good seal - plus check that rear LH to see if I need a new head. I found a place called Rockville Ring & Bearing that was close enough, had good pricing, and a short turnaround time. I took my heads there and they let me snoop around the shop and take some pictures.

    What a place! It's a gearhead's dream, and instilled confidence in me that they know what they are doing.
    IMG_20180119_122752.jpg IMG_20180119_122800.jpg IMG_20180119_122838.jpg IMG_20180119_122856.jpg IMG_20180119_122904.jpg IMG_20180119_122910.jpg IMG_20180119_122913.jpg IMG_20180119_122928.jpg

    I feel like I can tell when I've met a kindred spirit, and the two guys there are certainly on that list. They know their stuff, knew all about Subarus and their engines, and asked all the right questions. Plus they caught that the spark plug hole in the damaged LH rear had been re-threaded (correctly) with one of those helicoil inserts. Hope the head is salvageable. At least they can source a relatively cheap one if it's toast.
    Last edited by octobersknight; 08-08-2018 at 07:04 PM.

  4. #44
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Engine cleaning and dress-up

    While the heads are off getting machined, i's time to check the oil pump, remove un-needed accessories, get off the old water pump, and clean up the oily/dirty block.
    IMG_20180120_165025.jpg IMG_20180121_133352.jpg IMG_20180121_183020.jpg IMG_20180121_133358.jpg P1080241.jpg P1080242.jpg

    Including previous head evidence, you can see from the oil pan and where the block splits that whoever rebuilt this engine LOVED RTV. Maybe they have stock in Permatex? I decided to start my engine dress-up with the alternator/ A/C and power steering brackets. I'm using some VHT engine primer and engine enamel that I have left over from previous projects.
    IMG_20180121_143836.jpg IMG_20180121_153725.jpg IMG_20180121_161101.jpg

    Some piston cleanup:
    P1080244.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 09-07-2018 at 06:28 PM.

  5. #45
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    818C kit ordered!

    Alright everyone, I finally took the leap and place the kit order. I took a nice trip with the wife up to New England for a few days and she was gracious enough to stop by Factory Five for a tour. After the tour I sat down with Tony Zullo and placed my order. He talked me through the order and pointed out a few options that I should and shouldn't get based on my needs.

    So, here's the details for the kit, which will show up in my signature sometime soon!
    Ordered 8/14/18, pickup schedule for 10/6/18
    -818 Coupe kit

    Options (taking advantage of the sale):
    - Chassis powder coat
    - Carbon fiber street splitter
    - CF rocker panel extensions
    - CF diffuser
    - CF street spoiler
    - polished shifter knob
    - adjustable rear lower lateral control arms
    - vinyl padded dash/door upgrade
    - complete carpet set
    - battery cut-off switch
    - wiper kit
    - aluminum shifter assembly
    - complete CV axles (Tony told me his least favorite part of the build was making the Frankenaxles, as has been echoed by a few others so I'm going to skip it all. I do have the wiring harness to contend with still ...)
    - harness bar mount
    - matte gunmetal wheels
    Last edited by octobersknight; 09-12-2019 at 07:20 PM.

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  7. #46
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Heads reinstalled

    I reinstalled the painted brackets on the engine and put the cleaned-up alternator back on as well. I think it looks pretty sharp! I just hope the red paint stays well - it's already flaked off in a couple spots, I guess the self-etching primer doesn't do quite enough on aluminum. I'll have to find another product to prep aluminum well if this doesn't stay on very long.
    IMG_20180123_200042.jpg

    I also got my re-decked/cleaned heads (with a valve guide replacement and new seals/lash adjustment) back from Rockville Ring & Bearing a bit ago. I think they look fantastic now!
    IMG_20180124_132040 (2).jpg IMG_20180124_132100.jpg

    Installed new Fel-Pro head gaskets from the set I bought, which has every gasket you could need when rebuilding an engine. Even some you don't. these got great reviews and the brand has a ton of quality history, so I hope they work out right.
    IMG_20180128_142631.jpg

    Reinstalled the head, and made sure to use the proper procedure for the ARP head studs. I even bought a HUGE 10 oz jar of assembly lube, and promptly used probably 1/2 oz total ...
    P1080255.jpg

    I put black (oil resistant) Permatex gasket maker on front camshaft bracket, and was sure to only use sparing amount to avoid plugging the oil seal oil galleys. I even pulled it off once to check and reapplied. Also, be gentle when torquing these camshaft brackets in place, and the steel botls will easily strip the small-diameter, softer aluminum. I hope I didn't strip any of mine - especially at the front of the front bracket near the oil seal. I then installed the camshaft oil seals (again part of the Fel-Pro pack) using a little oil on the inner rim of the seal, a large socket and gentle mallet tapping - you need to be careful not to roll the lip.
    P1080256.jpg P1080257.jpg P1080258.jpg

    Then it was apply black Permatex where it says to in the manual on top of the large camshaft bracket, and reinstall the valve cover. Note that I don't use those copper/rubber washers anymore, as they weren't used on the car initially. Again, be careful when tightening to avoid stripping the female threads!
    P1080259.jpg P1080260.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 08-30-2018 at 08:15 PM.

  8. #47
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    "Again, be careful when tightening to avoid stripping the female threads!"
    I agree with that warning. Fortunately I didn't learn the hard way when I recently replaced my head gaskets. The owner of the machine shop that resurfaced my heads and did the valve job emphasized how important it is to follow the OE torque specs exactly and he also cautioned me to clean the threads of all re-used bolts on a wire wheel. Fair warning to all who follow!

    I also bought the complete set of gaskets and O-rings but it should have come with a note that says some are not needed because the extras kept me awake.

    If you don't have to pass emission tests, you can delete the TGV system or at least the butterfly valves. And, if you are deleting the air pump, keep the pressure sensor on the left solenoid.
    Nice work.
    Last edited by AZPete; 08-31-2018 at 11:24 AM. Reason: typo
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  9. #48
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Yeah I'm a little worried about some of the ones on the large cam bushing piece near the oil seals. I feel like those just never felt very tight and wouldn't get tighter. Debating now whether to peel everything off and helicoil them or to just leave it alone. Probably better safe than sorry?

    I hear you about notes about what's not needed!

    I did already do a TGV delete that I bought from Craigslist - and I still have my originals just in case. The air pump system was already deleted from the donor. Where can I locate the pressure sensor you mention to verify that I have it?

  10. #49
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Storage crate construction

    The past couple of weekends I took a bit of a break from car stuff to build a storage crate. Parts still aren't moving very fast on C-list or Ebay. And since I'm picking up the kit in a month (!) I figure I better clear out as much space as possible. So I started by clearing out a place in the backyard that I measured was big enough, but had a pile of old firewood/kindling. So I cleared that, and measured and checked - sure enough the space was nowhere near level enough for what I had planned. Nothing is ever easy. My solution? A mini retaining wall of course! It takes time to dig, level with paver sand, then set the stones. Then wait 4-5 days for adhesive to set. Backfill 8" high with stones, then with soil and level it out. in my case, I topped with weedblock and interlocking bricks, some of which had been there and others I scavenged from other flower bed edging and so forth around the house.

    IMG_20180829_180714.jpg IMG_20180829_184531.jpg

    I think it looks pretty nice, and is an allegory for building the kit - you'll always find something just a little off, and you have to spend time making it right first.

    After that I cut all the plywood and 2x4s to make the crate I wanted - 5' 8" long x 3' 3" deep x 4' tall inside. I already had bottom pressure-treated beams that had been laying around for years, and just over 6' long too. Fortuitous.

    IMG_20180831_185305.jpg IMG_20180902_111614.jpg

    I started to put the pieces together up on the platform, and realized I had a space problem. The box fit, but I couldn't next to it, nor could I get much help to move the box as it got heavier and more unwieldy. The build order had to be sides/back/front together, then bottom to back/sides, then front off, then bottom to beams (because they would block access to screw bottom to back/sides), then top, and reinstall removable front. I planned to have the top hinged as well for easier time getting parts out later.

    IMG_20180902_114804.jpg

    Needless to say, I gave up on that location after trying to do all kinds of strange rotations with the fours sides together, and figuring out that it would be treacherous to get parts out due to how steep the hill is right by the box. So I took all the sides apart and started over at location choice #2, near the back stairs. Now I'm not going to use that brick platform I spent so much time making! You can see the beams near the box resting on some bricks to eliminate ground contact.

    IMG_20180902_143307.jpg

    In this new space, I'm able to tip to get access all around, and still reach the back when all together to install hinges. Much better. I put it the sides together, tipped it up, put the top on and got ready to install beams. The bricks were so out of level due to the ground shape that the top didn't fit right. I then spent a while leveling the bricks by digging out soil and double-stacking some bricks (stealing some from that now unused platform), then tipped the box back down. Then I hard-installed the top, because hinging would make it precarious and much less sturdy. The front is still removable. Then I covered the sucker with some used/ leftover heavy-duty plastic from work to waterproof it. Ta da!

    IMG_20180902_164847.jpg IMG_20180902_174858.jpg

    The final proof will be this weekend, when I attempt to put in all the parts I did rough measurements for to get that box size. I may have to add a shelf inside to keep the large-but-light plastic parts out of the way.
    Last edited by octobersknight; 09-07-2018 at 06:07 PM.

  11. #50
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Back to the engine: with the heads back on and reassembled, I started reinstalling the oil feed lines.

    P1080261.jpg P1080262.jpg P1080270.jpg

    Then I looked to the water pump that I bought with the Gates timing belt kit. First I checked the thermostat/valve, then inspected the new water pump sealing surface prior to install.

    IMG_20180203_181238.jpg IMG_20180203_185153.jpg

    Then I went ahead with coolant crossover, and hard oil/coolant lines. I removed the broken stud in the coolant crossover port (lower left in picture) and ran tap in it to make sure the threads were clean.

    P1080272.jpg P1080274.jpg P1080276.jpg

    Again, here's where having those deconstruction pictures helped make sure I put everything back, and in the same order and place as before.

  12. #51
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    TGV deletes

    I bought some TGV deletes off of C-list. These were stock TGVs that someone had taken the time to remove all the internals and weld the outer holes and fill the inner holes with Devcon aluminum putty (better thermal expansion match than JB Weld), then polish. I think they were a steal, plus I got to keep my stock ones in case something goes squirrelly with the deletes that makes the engine not run well or fail some state test. I also decided to paint them the same as the brackets I had on, so i cleaned them up and degreased, then used self-etching primer and that high-temp red engine paint.

    IMG_20180214_170756.jpg IMG_20180215_173741.jpg IMG_20180215_192842.jpg

    I used new gaskets from the Fel-Pro kit and installed the TGV deletes, then grabbed my cleaned/balanced stock injectors back fresh from Witch Hunter Performance to install those.

    P1080281.jpg P1080280.jpg P1080283.jpg

    I finished installing the fuel rails, hard fuel lines, air intake, and wiring harness.

    P1080284.jpg P1080286.jpg P1080287.jpg

    Next up: air intake manifold and turbocharger
    Last edited by octobersknight; 09-07-2018 at 06:30 PM.

  13. #52
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Pretty, pretty engine.
    Do you know about Wayne's coolant tube mod? It's been considered essential by many of us because it helps a lot when bleeding the system.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ing-System-Mod

    If your air pump was already removed from your donor, and it was running, then either the left air solenoid did not have the atmosphere pressure sensor(some never had it) or the code had already been flashed out of the ECU. Google Subaru Air Pump to see vids about this.

    Save your old timing belt so you can use it to hold the cam sprockets as you torque them.
    Last edited by AZPete; 09-07-2018 at 10:27 PM. Reason: added link
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  14. #53
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Intake manifold prep and painting

    I took the stock manifold, which had been spray-painted silver (poorly), and removed the intake valve, fitting, and most hoses. I cleaned it a couple times with brake cleaner to make sure it was degreased and the paint was mostly removed. Then I taped it up and hung it in my basement workshop, ready for painting.

    P1080290.jpg IMG_20180218_135916.jpg IMG_20180218_135949.jpg

    I decided to use some VHT red engine wrinkle paint on this. I'd used it before, had a little left over (bought more, too, of course), and really liked the look of it in the engine bay. This stuff goes on really thick and gets EVERYWHERE because it's slow-drying as part of its function. Also, the thickness is what determines wrinkle size, so trying to keep even coats all over is tough but necessary.

    1 coat: IMG_20180219_131309.jpg IMG_20180219_131337.jpg

    2 coats: IMG_20180219_141012.jpg IMG_20180219_131337.jpg

    I did 3 coats total. I let this air dry. You get tighter wrinkles if you oven-bake it, but moving it while wet without touching that parts you care about is a huge pain. And it makes the kitchen smell like melted crayon for hours, plus who knows if it's safe to cook in that oven afterwards?

    Anyway, I let it sit for a day or two.

    IMG_20180219_164240.jpg IMG_20180219_164320.jpg

    Then removed the tape.

    IMG_20180219_204736.jpg IMG_20180219_204752.jpg

    I REALLY like the way the silver pops out against the red. Too bad for now all the silver will be hidden.

  15. #54
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Turbo prep and paint

    Since I was doing the intake manifold that nice red wrinkle, and I had a clean new-ish turbo, I decided to give it the same treatment to dress it up some.

    IMG_20180218_195426.jpg IMG_20180218_195432.jpg IMG_20180219_131250.jpg IMG_20180219_140952.jpg IMG_20180219_141002.jpg

    IMG_20180219_164231.jpg IMG_20180219_164604.jpg IMG_20180219_204704.jpg IMG_20180219_204712.jpg IMG_20180219_204721.jpg

    Now there's some silver that will be exposed - okay it's under the intake, but it's there!
    Last edited by octobersknight; 09-17-2018 at 06:00 PM.

  16. #55
    Senior Member Rob T's Avatar
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    Looks really nice....

  17. #56
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    Love that paint

  18. #57
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    TGV deletes, intake manifold, turbo installed

    Thanks for the thumbs-ups on the paint. I really love the stuff too. I've had it in my Mustang engine bay for a couple years, and it really holds up nice.

    I installed the TGV deletes with new gaskets fro the Fel-Pro kit, installed all the fuel lines, oil lines, vacuum lines, etc. I also installed the intake tube, intake manifold, and turbo. man that thing is a bear to install with the oil drain line and intake at 90 degrees to each other! but I did get it done. Pics for proof.

    P1080292.jpg P1080294.jpg IMG_20180223_202727.jpg P1080302.jpg

    I didn't think enough ahead about removing the flywheel, so it's still on there and I need to get it removed and resurfaced soon. that's a task for another day.

  19. #58
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    cam sprockets & timing belt installed

    I also put the cam sprockets back on and installed the new timing belt and water pump. [Sorry for the rotated sprocket photos, I can't figure out how to turn them]

    P1080308.jpg P1080311.jpg P1080304.jpg P1080312.jpg IMG_20180227_163429.jpg

    After I installed the sprockets I had to turn them a little to get them lined up for timing belt alignment. The camshafts in their relaxed positions don't line up exactly right, and I didn't double-check the manual to insure I was in the right "rest" position. I distinctly remember hearing a metallic sound (maybe a spring compressing/sliding?) as I adjusted the LH intake after having done the exhaust first - or maybe the other way around. I turned all the sprockets clockwise as you're supposed to. I went back to check how the sprockets align to the camshaft pins (see picture) and I think it was only a little turn in both cases to get the sprockets aligned to the timing marks, but I'm really nervous now because it's an interference engine. I haven't bent a valve or something dumb, have I?!? Is there a way to check without disassembling too much?

    All buttoned up!

    IMG_20180302_184124.jpg

    Notes/thoughts: I really want to replace all the factory rubber lines with some nice silicone ones. I've found some red kits for vacuum and "ancillary" lines that I'm considering. Also, there is a nice red Mishimoto silicone TMIC tubing set I really want. I'll be able to get rid of that horrid christmas theme I have going on now ... although I've also considered running separate colors for oil (black), antifreeze (red), and vacuum (blue). Any opinions? is that going to be too busy?

  20. #59
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    The engine is looking really nice! One way to test if you bent the valves is by doing a compression test, I've got a tester if you want to borrow it, HF sells them too. You'd just need to bolt the starter on and run it for a few seconds with some jumper cables. Don't forget to add oil to the engine. This can all be done on the engine stand.

    I bought one of those mishimoto hose kits but only used about 20% of it. This is probably because I didn't retain any of the emissions related hoses and used oil catch cans instead of some of the stock PCV hoses. There were also some coolant related hoses in that kit but the radiator is not near the engine so I didn't use those either.

  21. #60
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Sorry for the long delay between posts ... life.

    The last thing I wanted to do before kit arrival was to rebuild and paint the brake calipers. Here's what they looked like before and after cleaning:
    IMG_20180407_130558.jpg IMG_20180407_130550.jpg IMG_20180407_143109.jpg IMG_20180507_162015.jpg

    I bought some of the G2 epoxy paint and followed the instructions to the letter.
    IMG_20180509_140632.jpg IMG_20180509_155457.jpg IMG_20180509_155508.jpg IMG_20180509_155518.jpg

    And then put them back on with the resurfaced rotors.
    IMG_20170530_173132.jpg

  22. #61
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Front CV disassembly

    More pre-kit prep: disassembling the front outer CV joint so that the front wheel bearings stay in place on the kit.

    First step was to try to follow the manual. Remove the boot, gently tap it off with a hammer. The ends didn't budge a millimeter. Then I hit it harder. Still nothing. So I went to a nearby auto parts store and rented a slide hammer, which is made just for this sort of thing. Still. No. Dice. The axle ends were on there TIGHT. I'm not sure if I got them a little crooked while hammering or if the circlip got jammed or what. But nothing worked.

    IMG_20181102_194441.jpg IMG_20181102_195935.jpg

    However, since none of the guts need to survive ... time for destructive removal! I was over at a friend's house and he just happened to have a diamond cutoff wheel. He happily attacked the bearings cage and after a few cuts and some twisting and contorting of the joint, we were able to pop the bearing out and get the joints apart!

    IMG_20181102_201319.jpg IMG_20181102_202823.jpg IMG_20181102_204219.jpg

  23. #62
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    Pipe trick. It's been mentioned several times on here, but NOBODY remembers it until it's too late!!! Seriously, if you are reading this as your research and haven't started your cv disassembly yet STOP WHAT YOU'RE DOING AND WATCH THIS VIDEO!!!!

    https://youtu.be/pTooPkTAmIk

    The pipe isn't strictly necessary, but you do need something that will square the cage to the axle upon impact, and some amount of room for the axle to fall through. I rigged up a part of the wheel bearing on some plates, set up on my press.

    Here is the relevant post on my build thread.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post302350

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  25. #63
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbomacncheese View Post
    Pipe trick. It's been mentioned several times on here, but NOBODY remembers it until it's too late!!! Seriously, if you are reading this as your research and haven't started your cv disassembly yet STOP WHAT YOU'RE DOING AND WATCH THIS VIDEO!!!!

    https://youtu.be/pTooPkTAmIk
    I remember seeing this before and never being able to find the YouTube link again, THANKS!

    I really think this technique should be added to the FFR manual. Sure would save a lot of grief. Maybe FFR could even provide a piece of tube for the job, couldn't cost much and it would really improve the build experience.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  26. #64
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    power steering rack prep

    I took off and cleaned the steering rack, then "depowered" it and rerouted the hard lines. I'm not a fan of that bend on the right, so I'll run another line once I get some Cu-Ni line.
    IMG_20181020_121601.jpg IMG_20181020_121616.jpg IMG_20181020_183549.jpg

    Also, I got some brand new front control arms. I did buy a 2006 for those control arms, but didn't realize they were only on the sedan (I bought a wagon). I'll see if I can sell my OEM ones. I plan to clearcoat these new ones to try to keep them pretty as long as possible.

    IMG_20181102_175918.jpg

  27. #65
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    kit pickup!!

    This is more than a month overdue!

    I picked up my kit on October 6th, and managed to get in to the office right before closing on the 5th so I could sneak in a tour for my friend and my dad, who had never been to FFR before. During the tour, I got to see the kit with MY NAME ON IT!!

    IMG_20181005_164812.jpg

    The new powdercoat option is pretty slick. It's this nice satin/matte finish, not glossy like before. I really like it.

    IMG_20181006_081528.jpg

    Dan and another fellow helped load the chassis on the trailer I borrowed from another friend, and we strapped on all the boxes and filled the bed. the ride home was a bit tight, since we had a cooler and snack box in the cab and I had brought plenty of stuff "in case we might need it". Needless to say, things were jammed on pretty tight everywhere we could fit them - including inside the cab of the car. I met two other fellow builders who loaded up right next to me.
    IMG_20181006_082314.jpg IMG_20181006_082748.jpg IMG_20181006_093938.jpg IMG_20181006_093945.jpg

    We made it home with no incidents, except I foolishly left my green paper on the kit and it disappeared in MA on the highway somewhere . Unloading was actually quite easy with just two guys and a little bit of smart planning. Fit everything into the garage ... and workshop ... and guest room. I did use the jack-stands-on-furniture-dollies trick and it has worked flawlessly. It helps in a tiny garage and was critical to the successful two-man unload process.

    IMG_20181007_094908.jpg IMG_20181007_121032.jpg

    After going through my inventory over a week to 10 days, there were only about 6 items missing that were indicated as in the kit. Box 6, the packaged aluminum parts, was the most tedious because not all the parts are labeled with numbers. However, by the process of elimination and using the Appendix of the build guide (the "Packaged Aluminum" one, though it'd be nice if there was another rendering with a different look angle), I was able to find/label all the parts that were in there, sans the missing ones. I let FFR know what parts were missing and they cut me a no-cost order, which they will ship with the parts they knew were not in the kit. I talked to them Friday (9 November), and they told me they were getting to October kits this coming week. I'm looking forward to getting all my parts so I can plow ahead full steam.

    P.S. carbon fiber parts are gorgeous!

    IMG_20181007_160049.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 11-14-2018 at 11:16 AM.

  28. #66
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    OEM pedal box plate and front firewall

    Sorry for the long delay - I've been working on the kit (no time for silly computer updates!) and of course, the holidays.

    I started with the firewall install. Absolute first part on the kit was the OEM pedal box plate, which I "Self-Etching Primer" painted and then followed with "Satin Black Roll Bar and Chassis" spray paint. This stuff is really durable and looks great. it's about the same sheen and color as the powder coat! Here's a couple pics of my Dad and I co-installing the very first part on 11/10/2018 (more than a month after kit pickup, ugh.).

    IMG_20181110_154146.jpg IMG_20181110_154535.jpg

    First thing I did was mark the aluminum, drill holes, scuff the outside (forward) surface, and clean them. Then I sprayed on some 3M Professional Rubberized Undercoat (for some heat and sound reduction). it took a couple coats to look good, and used about a can and a half. i did dimple the driver's side panel, but later ended up cutting it out with a hole saw so I could access the rear LCA nut - more on that later.

    IMG_20181109_200003.jpg IMG_20181113_153512.jpg IMG_20181113_162500.jpg

    I used some black rivets and black silicone to keep the dark theme going. I even got some help from my son. The whole process was made easier by using a pneumatic riveter. i love that thing, and my forearms sure are thanking me for using my brain. I only drilled a few holes that ended up being unreachable, but no big deal. the panels are all in there nicely. I then sealed up everything from the back with the black silicone.

    IMG_20181116_202048.jpg IMG_20181116_202100.jpg IMG_20181116_202532.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 01-05-2019 at 08:31 PM.

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  30. #67
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Front suspension install

    I can't believe it's been so long since i last posted, I've been busy with the kit anyway and just haven't had the time to visit the site.

    I flipped the rear black arms that hold the "hurricane" brackets at the rear of the aftermarket Al lower front control arms that I bought, for extra caster. I swapped the hurricanes L-R as told in the manual, and clearcoated the arms to keep them pretty for as long as possible. I used a can of Rust-Oleum 2X automotive acrylic enamel. i got pretty close to spot-on with the first arm's of shock mount holes in terms of centering on the exit circles, but nailed the second arm! Both back plates fit no problem. I did have some fitment issues, as can be found in my other post here, but got that sorted by loosening the rear bushing bolt.

    IMG_20181127_180511.jpg IMG_20181128_191311.jpg IMG_20181128_191320.jpg IMG_20181130_163919.jpg

    I built the upper control arms as described, and had to use a vise to install the upper ball joints. I did find a wrench that I borrowed from Home Depot (i.e. buy/use/return in same day) that could handle it, because i didn't pay attention the first time and the through-hole for the cotter pin on the driver's side didn't align with the upper suspension mount - I couldn't get the pin through.

    IMG_20181205_195108.jpg

    I installed my spindles with refurbished brakes, and then I built the shocks and installed them as described. The only hiccup was that the threaded bodies were a little tight and I scraped the sticker half off on one of them - oh no! I think I'll hide that one in the back later. Steering rack came next and pretty easy, too.

    IMG_20181227_105612.jpg IMG_20181206_173542.jpg IMG_20181206_181526.jpg IMG_20181227_121104.jpg IMG_20181227_140802.jpg

    The only outstanding item for the front is the swaybar. I ended up getting some Pro-Line mounts for a 17mm swaybar (red urethane, of course), because the bracket on them is flat to match the kit. I couldn't get the OEM brackets flat in a way I liked, despite some filing and bending. it just made them look horrible and I didn't trust them after that. Luckily the aftermarket mounts are cheap and come with some lube to keep that swaybar free to move.

  31. #68
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    front firewall edit

    After the situation with the font LCA's I read up on tightening the rear bushing nut at ride height - which meant I had to edit my firewall. I simply got a 1.5" hole saw and drilled through the firewall and installed some plastic caps from Amazon, which were slightly too small to fit tightly. Electrical tape to the rescue! Kinda made that hole dishing-out of the driver's side first plate a big waste of time, and actually made the hole drilling and capping much harder ... dang it. No time to mope though! On to the rear of the car!

  32. #69
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    rear suspension install

    I painted the brackets for the rear brakes the same as all other black parts, with the sating rollbar rattle can paint. That stuff is so great!

    IMG_20190103_195737.jpg

    I installed them on the brakes, put the rear spindles on the trailing arms, and used all the OEM hardware except for my new FFR adjustable rear front-links.

    IMG_20190103_202638.jpg IMG_20190103_202132.jpg

    Then I noticed that the passenger side rear link was bent a little by the fork at the scrapyard. Bought a new Dorman one to replace it. Note that it's actually the driver's side arm swapped over for the 818. Then the next step was engine and transmission final prep and install.

  33. #70
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Engine finishing and transmission conversion

    I did some last-minute engine mods, like Wayne's cooling mod and A/C compressor reinstall, as well as check a couple bolts and take off the flywheel for resurfacing. Also finally bought the new clutch disk.

    IMG_20190105_183223.jpg IMG_20190111_203153.jpg IMG_20190104_162157.jpg IMG_20190107_160616.jpg

    After that I tackled the transmission conversion to 2WD. I had to clean and wire-wheel the heck out of the case to make it look presentable. Luckily the front end looked really good too, so I have no worries about the throwout bearings working as intended. Since it's part of the case, if the bearing surface is bad the case is junk.

    IMG_20190118_190923.jpg IMG_20190118_201225.jpg IMG_20190119_200715.jpg

    After that, the rest of the steps I did as per the manual, and the whole rear plate and center diff came out as one unit with almost no effort. A little win!

    IMG_20190119_192534.jpg IMG_20190119_193511.jpg

    Now I'm stuck as to how to get the rear nut off. i have to somehow push out those four dimples, hold the gears still, and remove the nut with the thing out of the car. I've looked up a couple alternatives but haven't found one that I understand or that works for me. Any suggestions would be very welcome. Maybe I just have to wait until it's installed with driveshafts and such?

    IMG_20190119_193524.jpg

  34. #71
    Harley818's Avatar
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    October..... in your last picture into the end of the trans, it looks like you left the bearing race in the top of the casting. Ask my how I know? I did the same thing till someone pointed it out.
    Better to get it out now than later. Mine was loose and just about fell out. Not something I would want bouncing around in there.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

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  36. #72
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    That rear trans nut comes out easily with an impact gun, the axle shafts don't even need to be held in place. You just have to unpry those dimples with a pick or small screw driver. Subaru recommends replacing that nut (P/N 802622020).

    Also, there's a fix if your throw out bearing surfaces get too worn down:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/PDM-Tranqui...frcectupt=true
    I had to get one of these and it works great.

  37. Thanks octobersknight thanked for this post
  38. #73
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Harley, STi, thanks. I'll look for that bearing race and try to get those dimples out - that has been my challenge trying to figure out how to un-dimple them. I'll let you know how it goes.

  39. #74
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    I echo what STi said. I though it wouldn't come off but once you get those dimples out the impact wrench turns the nut right out. I ended up using a small bladed, long handled screwdriver. Neither the nut or the screwdriver were really usuable again afterwards . The small punches I had just couldn't get under the dimple.

    ....and now Harley has made me second guess my bearing race. I thought I had taken it out but now I don't see it in my 'pile of stuff I don't think I need but I am not throwing it away until I am done'. Guess I need to open it back up and double check it.

  40. #75
    Member Kiwi Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    That rear trans nut comes out easily with an impact gun, the axle shafts don't even need to be held in place. You just have to unpry those dimples with a pick or small screw driver. Subaru recommends replacing that nut (P/N 802622020).

    Also, there's a fix if your throw out bearing surfaces get too worn down:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/PDM-Tranqui...frcectupt=true
    I had to get one of these and it works great.
    This nut was too big for my 2007 transmission (ask me how I know ). The part number I needed was 802618010 - available on eBay.

  41. #76
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi Dave View Post
    This nut was too big for my 2007 transmission (ask me how I know ). The part number I needed was 802618010 - available on eBay.
    Good catch, the part number I listed was for a 2002 trans.

  42. #77
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    I knocked out the dimples on the old nut and still had a tough time. But, I was able to get the old nut off by holding one old axle stub with a strap wrench, the other with my left hand, and operating the impact wrench with my right.

    Here's a few pics of my setup:

    IMG_20190228_164001.jpg IMG_20190228_164008.jpg IMG_20190228_163930.jpg IMG_20190228_164608.jpg

    Now that Dave and I have the right trans nut - how in the heck are we supposed to apply the required 190+ ft-lb of torque to that sucker? And dimple it? Is that something best left to when it's in the car with axles and functioning brakes? If so, is the back end accessible and easy to work on, including installing the end plate?

    Thanks all for the lively discussion and feedback, this community rocks!
    Last edited by octobersknight; 03-28-2019 at 07:42 PM. Reason: added pics!

  43. #78
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Right, I torqued that nut after the trans/axles/brakes were installed in the 818. There's plenty of access. I'd install that rear plate on the trans meanwhile (without RTV) to keep things from landing inside the trans and then remove the plate when you're ready to torque. I used a long flat head screw driver to dimple the nut - a few light taps with a rubber hammer.

  44. #79
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Secondary rear firewall fabrication

    I was ready to install the engine about 6 weeks ago ... then I got the top off the kit and realized I had always planned to put in a second firewall. And after reading AZPete's suggestions, I knew for sure that I had to do it before installing the engine. So I got to work measuring, paper templating, and drawing the firewall.

    IMG_20190120_174630.jpg IMG_20190207_191423.jpg

    This is the drawing of the firewall pieces as I measured. I am more than happy to send anyone a copy of the pdf I made, or the autocad file too!

    IMG_20190207_191705.jpg

    I bought some 0.08" aluminum sheet (24" x 48") from McMaster, which is just the right size - but could go a little bigger if you wanted to have better overlap on the sides for the bottom section. I cut the sheet with my jigsaw and a metal-cutting blade, which was actually much easier than I thought it would be. I checked the fit, and voila!

    IMG_20190209_140540.jpg

    After that it was the same process as all the other sheet aluminum - mark the bars on the Al, drill spots in Al, then drill the frame (cleco's rock!). Only this time I also followed others' advice and rivnutted the frame. This is much more time consuming than riveting, but having the panels removable is totally worth it.

    IMG_20190209_154429.jpg IMG_20190209_163136.jpg IMG_20190210_183921.jpg

    I wanted some good sound and heat insulation, so after looking around I bought a brand called LizardSkin - which has both a sound and a heat control formulation that can be layered for maximum effect (sound first, then heat), followed by a spray can overcoat for extra protection.

    I set up the panels in my newly-sealed "spray booth" (i.e. back half of my workshop) and got to work! Those little extra flaps on teh sides near the bottom are just some samples I made of individual layers as well as a full-up, to compare each layers to the full up and a bare Al piece. Just a little bit of show-and-tell for interested parties!

    IMG_20190211_163355.jpg IMG_20190211_201634.jpg IMG_20190217_215021.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  45. #80
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Secondary rear firewall installation

    Once the firewall had the finish coat of protective spray, I brought it up to install it. It weighs a total of 12.2 lbs (if anyone's interested). Before installing the parts on the frame, I used 1/4" thick x 1/2" wide silicone teardrop self-stick weatherseal by Frost King in the gaps between the rivnuts. This was to help seal the gaps and to prevent vibration on the panels on the frame.

    IMG_20190220_180445.jpg IMG_20190223_150720.jpg IMG_20190223_154023.jpg

    I ended up using about 55-60 ribbed #10-24 rivnuts and 3/4"-long, stainless steel, button-head, 1/8" hex-drive bolts. Of course if I had planned this better, I would have aimed for a more package-convenient 50 total ... oh well, I know its secure now. Another thing I did for the bottom panel was to offset the top and bottom screws by about half a spacing. Without any real rationale, I just had the gut feeling that this would prevent and weird flapping modes or something in that bottom section that might happen with evenly-spaced rectangle gaps. Due to it being burned into my brain in engineering school (and it's also apparent in the truss structure of the chassis itself) I went with triangles.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

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