Boig Motorsports

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  15
Likes Likes:  50
Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 81 to 120 of 202

Thread: Octobersknight's 818 Build

  1. #81
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    wire harness dieting

    In the midst of working the firewall and engine/trans install prep, I worked on the wiring harness. I decided to give it a shot using mechie3's excellent picture list/wire harness how-to, along with the FSM that I learned how to read. The main things I wanted to were label most of the plugs, figure out what went where, and remove unwanted items. Thus, I removed:
    - airbag stuff
    - rear door sensors
    - rear hatch wiper/defroster/open sensor

    and that's about it! I kept radio, ABS, A/C and heat, front door "closed" witches, front door connectors (for power locks), accessory power and so forth. I started on 2/28 and took over the guest room, with the explicit agreement with my wife that I would be done my mid=April when we had guests coming who would actually need the room. Here's what it looked like to start.

    IMG_20190303_123514.jpg

    In total, I spent just shy of 17 hours (and 3 weeks real-time, finished 3/21) dieting the harness, unwrapping things as I went and then mostly re-wrapping too. I ended up removing about 6+ lbs worth of unneeded wires, connectors, clips, and plastic!

    IMG_20190303_180849.jpg

    Honestly the final "clean" harness doesn't look that much different than when I started. But now I know way more about it, more about how to read the manual, and I feel tons more confident about tracing any future issues I might have. I was the most worried about the electrical because it seems so complicated, but I'm much less concerned now. Knowledge is power!
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  2. #82
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    front suspension last bits

    After installing almost everything up front, the remaining bit was the front swaybar, using the Pro-thane mounts as previously noted. I painted the swaybar red (of course), removed the front right shock (since it had a scratched sticker anyway, I moved it to the back after swapping springs), and installed the bar. With LOTS of paint nicks and scratches. that thing really does not like to go in there. I temporarily installed the swaybar-to-LCA links as well, assuming I'll have to mess with them once I'm ready to do ride-height tightening.

    IMG_20190228_160646.jpg IMG_20190228_160629.jpg IMG_20190228_160639.jpg

    Did I mention that the swaybar is in there tight? I don't know how to set it right so that it won't whack other parts - suggestions are welcome!
    Last edited by octobersknight; 03-28-2019 at 06:41 PM.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  3. #83
    Senior Member DSR-3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    386
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yea, not much clearance for the sway bar at spring top and hex-link. Adjust it at ride height. I thought for sure they would hit at some point but indicator tape looks clean so far. And in case you were wondering- yes, the front bar is needed. I tried without it at first and the car was quite a handful!
    Nice work in your tiny garage space!
    *noticed that your sig indicates that you ordered your car in the future...
    818S #332, EZ30R H6, California licensed 01/2019

  4. #84
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Engine and transmission install

    In finally got to install my engine and transmission about a month ago (March 15). I was installing these later than originally expected due to the second firewall work, but my friend Chris was able to swing by on a Friday we both had off to help me put the heart in the beast. First I removed the exhaust from the engine. Then I reinstalled the resurfaced flywheel, new clutch disk, the cleaned pressure plate, and the mostly-ready transmission. I still need to torque the nut on the back of the transmission and gasket-seal on the back plate for it to be complete. I protected as many places as possible with cardboard during the install and was able to install the engine without any issues - and it only took a little bit of wiggling for it to slide in there and sit right.

    IMG_20190315_145809.jpg IMG_20190315_155946.jpg IMG_20190315_161254.jpg IMG_20190315_162406.jpg IMG_20190315_165519.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  5. #85
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    rear suspension completion

    After engine and transmission install, I worked on butting up the rear suspension. I popped in the complete FFR axles (option!) without too much hassle. I did have to remove the bottom long bolt from the suspension components to give me enough available motion to fit the axle end into the spindle. I put the last upper link into place. I preloaded the rear springs according to Wayne's suggestion - 3" from threaded body bottom to bottom of preload collar. Then I installed the shocks. Now the front and rear suspensions are only awaiting the final torque at ride height and tightening the axle nuts once I have functioning brakes.

    IMG_20190322_180144.jpg IMG_20190322_183002.jpg IMG_20190323_090540.jpg

    Also, I had an adventure when moving the car to one side of the garage. One of the rear jack stands/dollies decided not to move with the rest, and instead took a nap. Well, the whole car toppled a little. I was terrified.

    IMG_20190323_094625.jpg

    Luckily I was able to right it by putting my jack in the corect place and lifting the kit with that. Then I put the jack stand back and all is well. The only damage I noticed is a delamination crack in the driver's B pillar, which I plan to fix with some epoxy.

    IMG_20190323_095541.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 04-19-2019 at 08:52 AM.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  6. #86
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Syracuse, NY
    Posts
    1,290
    Post Thanks / Like
    That's a scary thing to have happen. I had it happen when I was building a FFR Roadster. Glad the damage was minimal.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  7. #87
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    interior aluminum, brake/clutch pedal pack install

    After the tipping incident, I worked on my interior aluminum. I marked for the frame tube, drilled the holes, and then masked off the outside portion where the tubes would rest. Then I did another bit of LizardSkin, the same as for my secondary firewall. It was quite a challenge getting all those panels mounted near together so I could get them all in one shot in my basement "paint booth" area!

    IMG_20190325_194338.jpg IMG_20190403_180741.jpg IMG_20190403_181135.jpg IMG_20190404_170301.jpg IMG_20190404_175202.jpg

    Then on to the install of the pedals. Following the manual, I did the brake/clutch install.

    IMG_20190405_190551.jpg IMG_20190405_195626.jpg

    Then when I went to go do the MC install for the brake, I found (as many others have, apparently) that the bolts supplied with the kit are too short, and that the holes are too close to the donor MC "collar." So I bought longer bolts and trimmed the heads to fit nicely. Sadly, now the ugly bolt/nut combo will be on the outside of the car in the front bay. MC install planned after gas pedal install.

    IMG_20190422_184553.jpg

    The next step is installing the FBW gas pedal mount ... which meant I had tight quarters for work because the other pedals were in the way! I wish they were in opposite order in the manual. It turns out the space was just too tight for me, so I removed the pedals to install the FBW bracket.

    IMG_20190422_181737.jpg IMG_20190422_181744.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 06-09-2019 at 06:15 PM.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  8. #88
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Steering wheel install

    Getting the upper bolts into the brake pedal cluster was tricky getting everything lined up, especially with the way I have my coupe-top "stored" with plywood that covers that access. It did work, though.

    IMG_20190422_192745.jpg IMG_20190422_193844.jpg

    The steering wheel install was a little more ... finicky ... than I was hoping. It took two people (my wife and I) to hold it up and slide-install the splined collar to the steering rack. Then it took some muscle to get the holes in the wheel bracket to line up with the kit plate. I still think my wheel may be a spline off to one side, but I hope that's an easy fix in the not-too-distant future.

    IMG_20190424_202241.jpg

    Also decided to replace the fuel pump in-tank filter. It's supposed to be a lifetime filter, but I figured I have access now, so why not knock out one potential hiccup when it's easy to do?

    IMG_20190505_095242.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  9. #89
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Fuel tank install, rear firewall insulation

    I cut the hole in my secondary rear firewall to make room for the fuel tank fill line. I'm glad I made the secondary firewall removable, or this task would have been very difficult to line up, mark, cut, clean, install the tank, and then slip on the rubber coupling hose section. Some aquarium tubing works just fine as a grommet to protect the fuel tube from the sharp edges of the firewall cut.

    IMG_20190505_104128.jpg IMG_20190505_120506.jpg IMG_20190511_220453.jpg

    For my extra rear insulation I just bought some "project rolls" of pink panther fiberglass form the local hardware place. It's for 2' gaps, which I figure will compress just fine for the 1.5" gap in my rear firewall space. Pieces were super easy to cut to suit and fit in the right places on the firewall.

    IMG_20190505_202330.jpg IMG_20190511_212640.jpg IMG_20190511_213214.jpg

    Also, installed a charcoal canister from a Yamaha YP400 scooter in the back corner. I've seen it on other pages and it was recommended by KiwiDave. Super cheap on ebay, sleek, and does the job (so I've heard).

    IMG_20190515_180319.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  10. #90
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Seat belt cover blanks and seat selection

    Since I went with 4-point Schroth harnesses, I knew I didn't need the holes for the OEM seat belts. I bought some aluminum sheet and cut it to the same dimensions as the FFR covers sans holes. Siliconed and riveted in place.

    IMG_20190515_182558.jpg IMG_20190518_110619.jpg IMG_20190518_114106.jpg

    I went to a local shop to try out some seats. i really didn't want to buy some seats without testing (body) fit first. I ended up with Sparco R100 seats, and looked at both the red line and the black vinyl. I ended up going with the black vinyl because the tester felt a little better than the red line, and I didn't want the two reds (seat and harness) to be off enough to look bad. Plus I like the stitch detail and extra Sparco logo on the vinyl seats. i hope I don't regret the decision in the hot months! That Vintage Aire A/C thing better work once I install it ...

    IMG_20190524_143924.jpg IMG_20190524_143951.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  11. #91
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like
    I shared working on the next steps and realized reading forward that there are never any instructions to install the corners of the footwell that protect the rad lines and brake/clutch lines. I had to info the corner sidewalls to get the pieces fit, but no big deal.
    IMG_20190524_191449.jpg

    After that, I started the brake and clutch line routing. I wanted to keep ABS, so I had to fab a bracket to hold the controller/pump. I cut up the OEM bracket and then cut some aluminum bar stock to fit to the front v in the center.

    IMG_20190526_182515.jpg IMG_20190526_184309.jpg

    Then I installed with silicone and rivets.

    IMG_20190527_171055.jpg

    After that it was on to the MCs and line routing.

    IMG_20190528_154730.jpg IMG_20190528_154756.jpg IMG_20190528_213618.jpg IMG_20190528_213629.jpg

    I wanted the clutch line to go behind the engine instead of in front and under the intake. So I ran the line to the shock crossbar and made a short removable section of hard line so the engine and trans could be removed if needed. I also used leftover ABS bracket to make a bracket for mounting the clutch flexible line.

    IMG_20190529_193702.jpg IMG_20190529_193152.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 09-25-2019 at 04:13 PM.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  12. #92
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    184
    Post Thanks / Like
    Those aluminum pieces that protect the coolant lines got me too. As many have pointed out to me, you should also drill and prep the aluminum pieces that make up the front splash guards around the wheels. Only a couple of them are in the manual and they are at the very end. It seems like it is MUCH easier to do them at the beginning rather than the end.

  13. #93
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like
    thanks for the advice on the wheel well stuff! I hadn't thought about that yet, and likely would have waited until too late. I haven't checked the latest manual rev (V) to see if they've added these steps in there at the right time. Is there a feedback mechanism on the forums so we can let them know helpful additions/changes?
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  14. #94
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by octobersknight View Post
    Is there a feedback mechanism on the forums so we can let them know helpful additions/changes?
    That's a good question. Over the years there have been lots of good, common sense, suggestions on the forum of ways that FFR could improve their design, manufacturing process and manual. People have reached out to them directly and sometimes they have made changes, but not always. I just checked the manual rev V and the splash guards are still at the very end. They obviously revise the manual but maybe they just need a fresh set of eyes to review it.

  15. #95
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like
    Slava, thanks for checking on rev V already. I actually plan to document all the things out of order or unclear and send it to FFR so that hopefully they can track item-by-item to fix in a future rev. If nothing else, at least I can post (or update existing posts) about what to do when for other builders getting started with the kit.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  16. #96
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    184
    Post Thanks / Like
    I assume you have seen this thread:

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tips-add-yours

    We could add stuff to that thread. I think as a general rule the intent of the manuals is that they are sort of guidelines for the build rather than a detailed list of build steps. I have also heard that the 818 manual is much better than the others.
    Last edited by sgarrett; 09-26-2019 at 10:02 PM.

  17. #97
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    I'm back (I never left)!

    I can't believe it's been 9 months since I posted anything! Needless to say, I have not actually been idle. I was sidetracked a bit by some real life stuff - including scratching my impatience itch and bringing a "totaled" salvage car back to working order. It was much faster than waiting on this to run and helps me prove to myself that I'll actually be able to do this. Plus I upgraded from a hatchback to this bigger vehicle, and it's a nice upgrade in power and ride quality too. Strangely, even though it's a model year newer, it doesn't have all the features of my 2012 Focus Ti. But it also sucked up some of my time in the fall, and coupled with my intimidation from getting seat mounts in the 818 delayed my work on the kit for a while.

    IMG_20190726_145858.jpg IMG_20191122_143541.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  18. #98
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Brake and clutch lines done, bled

    I ran all the Cu-Ni brake lines from the ABS core to the four corners, hooked up the SS flex lines, and also ran the clutch line. I prototyped with some sire so I could get all the bend lengths correct, but the long runs with bends at both ends made this very challenging. If I did it again, i might put a junction in the center just to make this part easier. I have no idea if I'll ever figure out the right adjustment on the proportioning valves, but they're in there anyway. I also had some custom brake/clutch master cylinder adapters made by a friend for the remote reservoir, since I couldn't find a commercial source. The brackets are ugly, but functional. Made sure all the lines are lower than the hood (crossbar anyway). With some help from the wife, I bled all the lines.

    I have a few "extras" and drawings if anyone wants to copy the adapter (not bracket) design. Brackets are easy enough.

    IMG_20190529_205810.jpg IMG_20190530_114819.jpg IMG_20190530_145232.jpg IMG_20190530_175209.jpg IMG_20190530_195805.jpg IMG_20190614_165832.jpg IMG_20190614_193825.jpg IMG_20190618_194544.jpg IMG_20190620_195347.jpg IMG_20190621_162852.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  19. #99
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Front flex brake line brackets

    I had to make custom brackets for the front flex brake lines. They were far too floppy for my taste, otherwise, and they are more secure (and pretty) this way. Just some simple aluminum angle, a few holes, and matching threaded holes in the front hub carrier.

    IMG_20190718_213333.jpg IMG_20190718_213340.jpg IMG_20190718_213753.jpg IMG_20190719_132925.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  20. #100
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Prototyping seat mount brackets

    This, for me, was a very long process, partly because I had to re-learn how to weld and to prove that my welds were strong enough to hold the seats in place. I bought 3/16" steel bars to weld in place on top of the X bracing in the car. I finally found the bolt spacing for my Sparco R100s (it was harder to find than you'd think!). After laying out the bars and the seat template in the car, I started making brackets to raise the seats so I could bolt into the seats and into the bars without going through the X-tubing. I really didn't want anything hanging out of the bottom of the car.

    IMG_20190723_183312.jpg IMG_20200317_174738.jpg IMG_20200318_184619.jpg IMG_20200329_163127.jpg IMG_20200404_164441.jpg

    Then I practiced welding. A lot. I also cut apart my later welds and did some penetration checks. they look pretty good to me, and many hammer tests proved they were strong.

    IMG_20200314_134810.jpg IMG_20200314_153211.jpg IMG_20200318_182225.jpg

    After more practice, and more practice, I finally bit the bullet and started welding the bars into the car. I welded every possible linear inch on the top that I could. I tried also welding at the bottom, but the undercurve of the tubing plus gravity proved that was a bad idea. I gave that up pretty quickly but came up with a better idea. More on that in the next post.

    IMG_20200409_160907.jpg IMG_20200409_164301.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  21. #101
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    More seat bar welding and bracket fabrication

    Here are some close-ups of the seat bar welds. I'm pretty pleased about how they turned out.

    IMG_20200409_164307.jpg IMG_20200409_164316.jpg IMG_20200409_203256.jpg IMG_20200503_192037.jpg

    Continuing from last post, I abandoned the idea of welding from the underside. However, I really didn't like the way the welds were only on the top. I thought about worst case scenario - what if all the welds break on the bars in a crash, the seat can just go sliding/flying forwards. So I came up with some additional welded brackets. The extra brackets are made from angle iron and go at the front and read of each bar, welded to the frame under the bar. Then, the bar is bolted through the bracket. This way, even if all the welds break, there is something physical stopping the seats from going forward. About the only situation it doesn't fully counter is a roll-over ... and I've considered bolting through the front/rear tubes for this reason. Even though I really don't like bolting through tubing.

    IMG_20200517_133302.jpg IMG_20200517_133333.jpg

    After the bars were welded in place I could actually fit the seats for a test-run. Before welding, everything moved around too much for proper fitting. I bolted up my brackets and seat spacers for the test fit.

    IMG_20200512_184306.jpg IMG_20200517_133235.jpg IMG_20200517_193039.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  22. Likes Kurk818 liked this post
  23. #102
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Seat bracket fabrication

    After test fitting the seats and checking alignment, I realized that the initial brackets I made were not going to be needed for the passenger seat (whoops), but I would only have to remake just one of them. I still needed height spacers for the other three positions to ensure the seat was at the proper height for the one remaining bracket (right rear). Also, I needed a lower mount for my seatbelts, so I made some tabs that I welded onto the rear right bracket and rear left spacer. I had to remake the rear right one to adjust the location of the welds and the mounting holes to avoid drilling through the welds - plus I had welded the ear on the wrong direction ...

    IMG_20200523_184822.jpg IMG_20200526_210041.jpg (front view, looking backwards).

    For the driver's seat: after test fitting the seat again and mounting as far back on the bars as I could, I realized I wanted it even further back. I fabricated some extensions bars that line up with the original holes but extend my seat back another 2" or so. The rear mount point is now just behind the rear square tubing, which makes for an interesting installation process to make sure all the bolt get installed and tightened in the proper order. I also welded seat belt tabs onto these rails.

    IMG_20200523_131624.jpg

    After the final test fit of both seats, I painted the in-car new bits and the home-made seat brackets.

    IMG_20200526_205158 2.jpg IMG_20200523_134719 2.jpg IMG_20200522_201422.jpg IMG_20200527_090334.jpg IMG_20200527_190053.jpg IMG_20200527_205112.jpg IMG_20200527_205105.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 09-27-2020 at 06:12 AM.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  24. #103
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Shifter linkage

    I rough-installed my zero dB shifter linkage. It looks sick!
    IMG_20200529_162224.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  25. #104
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Wiring ... :(

    Now on to the worst part of everyone's build, or at least most people's (if they didn't get a pre-made harness) - wiring. I have spent probably another 60 hours on this bad boy, mostly just soldering and extending wires. I'm sure I have a bit more to go (door cards for power locks, all rear lights). I've extended these things at least that I can remember: clutch, brake, gas pedal, headlights, fog lights, marker lights, turn signals wiper motor, A/C high side, some ABS sensors, radiator fans. I also ran a heavy-duty cable from battery negative to the starter ground, and made a ground strap from the battery to the frame.

    IMG_20200529_194344.jpg IMG_20200605_114503.jpg IMG_20200611_195511.jpg IMG_20200820_185230.jpg

    Also, I found some more forum help AFTER trying to fit some of the fuse boxes ... and found the tip about cutting ~6 wires to move a pair of the boxes up front. I bet that would have saved me some other lengthening operations, but sometimes searching the forums is time-consuming and you don't know what to look for until you get to the problem. I think I'm done enough that I can start putting in aluminum trim after I address plugging the holes by the gas tank that for some reason have no aluminum around them - an old path that FFR never went back and covered, or for the 818R something-or-other? Also, have to do the radiator plumbing and some engine finish work.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  26. #105
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Radiator plumbing

    I had a heck of a time getting the larger outer coupling to fit on the thinner inner coupling on the water pump. I eventually got it, but it was difficult. Thank goodness for WD-40. I ran the corrugated lines from the pump to the back left corner and the upper crossover to the back right. Another thread on this discussion is found at https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ubber-couplers. My tubing was badly cracked in the bead area, but of course FFR fixed it next day and sent out new ones free of charge. They are awesome. Anyway, the new ones still had very slight cracking but they fit up just fine.

    IMG_20200822_193601.jpg

    I ended up getting a single silicone reducer elbow (1.75"-to-1.5") for the right rear because I didn't like the way the corrugated tube bent. (It either forced the hard tube too far forward or it rubbed up against the exhaust heat shield.) The 1.75" is ever so slightly big on the tubing (which is 1.70") but I clamped it pretty good and will be able to tell when I try to pull vacuum later. Other than that, the front tubing gets rubbed by the tires at full lock. I haven't yet tried fitting the aluminum splash guard parts as suggested, and may also end up putting rack limiters on there if I'm not happy. I will wait for my final wheels and tires for that, instead of my donor "burners."

    IMG_20200828_153513.jpg IMG_20200902_192740.jpg IMG_20200902_192749.jpg IMG_20200902_192751.jpg IMG_20200902_192807.jpg IMG_20200902_192815.jpg IMG_20200902_192819.jpg IMG_20200906_195524.jpg IMG_20200906_195612.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 09-27-2020 at 05:58 PM.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  27. #106
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    1,025
    Post Thanks / Like
    “Personal Lubricant” sold in the “family planning” section at the grocery store is perfect for getting tight fitting parts to slip together. It’s water based instead of silicon or petroleum, so no fear of it causing swelling or degrading of the rubber.

  28. #107
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like
    Perfect, I'll keep that tip in mind. I was worried about the WD-40 both contaminating the coolant and degrading the rubber. I took also apart a joint and the rubber was a little whitened. Luckily I didn't use much WD-40, and it will be about six weeks between assembly and when I put coolant in, so contamination risk is small.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  29. #108
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    More engine "accessory" work

    I finally got around to installing the Craigslist intercooler that looks about the size of an STI TMIC. I bought the Mishimoto red silicone hose set because the standard set I had didn't fit. The Mishimoto couplers worked well, but the supplied clamps are pretty rubbish (as most people note). I put the bypass valve back on the intercooler, as I didn't like the look, function, or probable sound of the cheap blow-off valve that the previous owner had. Luckily the OEM bypass was in the trunk of the donor. Also, I hooked up the plumbing for the turbo, manifold, and intake connections. I just have to find a place to put the boost solenoid and then wire it. I also finally got rid of the second-to-last green hose in the engine bay. The final one is really buried and I may just leave it for now.

    IMG_20200703_173224.jpg IMG_20200704_120832.jpg IMG_20200707_191630.jpg IMG_20200910_193704.jpg IMG_20200910_194051.jpg

    I had some aluminum from a trailer fender that got rolled up when a tire popped and split on the road. It's pretty heavy gauge stuff, so I thought it might make a good radiator overflow tank offset bracket. I did some cardboard-aided design and made a bracket out of the ugly aged aluminum. I polished it up and it looks okay ... it's my first polish job and I've certainly learned a lot about preparations for that bit to keep the part looking best.

    IMG_20200907_181129.jpg IMG_20200907_190233.jpg IMG_20200907_201140.jpg IMG_20200909_181555.jpg IMG_20200909_194005.jpg

    I've hooked up all the radiator lines - from Wayne's mod I've also teed in a line from the radiator cap-nipple. I will wait until I place my oil catch cans until I actually install the OEM extra reservoir.
    Last edited by octobersknight; 09-28-2020 at 06:41 PM.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  30. #109
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Underseat floor pan

    I did the prep for install of the underseat floor pan. I decided to make it removable because I didn't trust myself to leave it on there at first try. I knew I'd probably take it off again after installing the seats because I'll forget one thing or another. I installed about 50 #10-24 rivnets and used silicone weatherstrip around them to keep the thing as airtight as possible. I also coated it with LizardSkin sound absorber in the empty bay areas, and will likely also stick some OEM sound insulation under there or something. I haven't thought through exactly how to close the underseat areas off from dust and dropping things in there accidentally, but I'll get there.

    IMG_20200624_203749.jpg IMG_20200703_110208.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  31. #110
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    1,025
    Post Thanks / Like
    DIY powder coating kit from eastwood and a $25 craigslist oven are by far the best money I have spent on this project, would make real quick work of your bracket.

  32. #111

    Yes, I love Technology
    aquillen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    752
    Post Thanks / Like
    I asked a local appliance dealer what they do with old trade-in ovens and got "why - you want one?". "Yes", two weeks later they called and said stop by, we have 3 you can pick from... Free!

  33. Likes jbs72697 liked this post
  34. #112
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    More electrical work, gas tank quieting, and tubing protection

    I futzed around some more with the locations of everything like fuse boxes, ECU, and fuel pump controller. I finally got things where I liked, with the fuse boxes near the driver's feet so I can make a door to access them and the ECU/fuel pump control behind the passenger seat in the passenger compartment. I didn't want this ECU hanging out in the hot engine bay all the time. I also installed my ABS G-sensor in the front center area.

    IMG_20200917_201802.jpg IMG_20200918_201905.jpg IMG_20200919_154418.jpg PXL_20201006_231231944.jpg PXL_20201008_232924330.jpg

    I also realized (very belatedly) that I wanted to keep the gas tank from banging around and getting dust and dirt up through the gaps in the sheet metal. I raised it up and put some Kilmat that I bought under there to keep it quiet and somewhat dampened from road vibrations. I added small aluminum panels as well to close off the large openings by the gas tank, whose function at this point is unknown. I then used black silicone caulk to seal off all the gaps around the tank to prevent dust and such from creeping in there.

    IMG_20200920_171726.jpg PXL_20200923_000532574.jpg PXL_20200927_185959199.jpg

    Everywhere the corrugated radiator tubing looked close to rubbing, I put some thick silicone sheets around it and zip-tied it in place.

    PXL_20201001_233242181.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  35. Likes jbs72697 liked this post
  36. #113
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Polished shifter

    I polished up the base plate for the FFR aluminum shifter so it would more closely match the shifter mechanism itself.

    IMG_20200913_124539.jpg IMG_20200913_145355.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  37. #114
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    boost solenoid bracket and fuse box fab

    I made up a small bracket to rigidly mount the otherwise-floating boost control solenoid valve. Through complete and utter serendipity, I managed to size the bracket at the bottom to match the little tab that sticks out from the solenoid. I hadn't considered it in the design and just got lucky! I polished it to make it look nice in the engine bay and silicone/riveted it in place.

    PXL_20201010_003214605.jpg PXL_20201010_005036325.jpg PXL_20201010_005126177.jpg

    I very quickly realized that putting the access panel and fuse box in the way of the pedals would be a terrible idea. Like really really terrible! So I undid the cuts I made in the driver's side center tunnel (thankfully carpet will cove the Frankenstein stitching) and made a similar one on the passenger size to completely remove the front bit. Then I went ahead and started mocking up a fuse box with some butcher paper since I didn't have cardboard.

    PXL_20201017_215619544.jpg PXL_20201017_220331146.jpg PXL_20201017_225510302.jpg PXL_20201017_225516244.jpg

    I knew that I wanted this to be somewhat light and stiff so that passengers wouldn't cause too much damage accidentally; I used sheet aluminum for the body, aluminum angle bracket for the inside corners, and aluminum flat stock for the bolted edges. Silicone and rivet construction.

    PXL_20201018_000047580.jpg PXL_20201018_235547548.jpg PXL_20201021_221732560.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  38. Likes jbs72697, FFRWRX liked this post
  39. #115
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    fuse box enclosure fitting and wrapping, harness bar standoffs

    Fit-test the fuse box enclosure near the fuse boxes, and wrapped the boxes themselves with some packaging foam to prevent rattles and damage. The enclosure fits well and I did the rivet-nut and bolt to the center tunnel, and nut/bolt through the floor.

    PXL_20201114_011846140.jpg PXL_20201122_194812923.jpg

    I made my own larger-diameter harness bar standoffs that were shorter than FFR-supplied one. Polished them using sandpaper and my drill, and I'm pretty happy how they came out overall.

    PXL_20201121_215829875.jpg PXL_20201121_220934335.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  40. Likes jbs72697 liked this post
  41. #116
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    parking brake handle and shifter install

    I bent the tab on the parking brake to get the handle base to lie flat on the center tunnel. Install was as in the manual. My brake must have had an aftermarket handle cover because it was an absolute bear to remove. The shifter was a little trickier. The base plate went in well, but then I also had to locate the and drill four holes through the tunnel aluminum for the four underside boltheads to go through.

    PXL_20201205_204403460.jpg PXL_20201206_025054347.jpg

    The FFR-supplied washers for the aluminum shifter also don't match up with the cuts in the cable-supports. I got three large and one small washer, when I needed two large, one medium, and one small.

    PXL_20201206_234620985.jpg

    I shaved down one of the large washers by chucking it into my drill and just sanding it to the right size. I got everything to fit and then got on to adjusting the cables. My first attempt at routing them had them too close to the steering wheel. I fixed that later.

    PXL_20201207_004322843.jpg PXL_20201206_234636776.jpg

    Finally got my transmission nut tightened to about 175 ft-lbs (not the 190 ft-lbs spec but it's all I could do with other bits spinning on their own) and bent the lock ring.

    PXL_20201212_201458666.jpg

    On mechie3's advice, I drilled another hole closer to the transmission so that my shifter feel would be better. I started adjusting the cables on the zero dB linkage, and found that the only way to get the shifter centered up front and still get in gear had most of my adjustments all the way backed out. I also tried moving the mount location up front using the second location for the fore-aft cable on the shifter. Of course it was a little too far to work in the other direction. I really didn't like the maxed-out adjustments, so I re-adjusted the cables for about the fifth time (!) and made my own adapters to match the zero dB ones. This got my cables to the right lengths, my adjustments not far from center, and my shifter about center up front.

    PXL_20201211_221054499.jpg PXL_20201219_210916608.MP.jpg PXL_20201219_193338979.jpg PXL_20201222_215834459.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 01-20-2021 at 07:49 PM.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  42. #117
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    oil catch can install

    One of the things I finally decided to do was add oil catch cans. After reading, I decided that I wanted either that or an AOS, but leaned towards the catch cans because I didn't want to deal with all the drainback into the crankcase. I'd rather just catch all the gunk and dump it, and be able to inspect it if needed. Just bought a couple cheap baffled ones from the richest man in the world, and they came with many fittings and also some SS wool to add to the capture efficiency. I have two, one for the pressure-side and one for the vacuum side of the PCV. The pressure-side tees in three lines: one from each of the valve covers (and rids me of that horrible metal crossover pipe that just floats there), and one from the PCV.

    PXL_20201030_230105205.jpg

    I made brackets and mounted them towards the back of the engine bay.

    PXL_20201228_203323071.jpg PXL_20201229_005341187.jpg PXL_20201229_005346488.jpg PXL_20201229_011106147.jpg\

    After taking off my rose-colored glasses, I realized that getting to all the hoses and connections I needed to access required the removal of the intercooler .. grumble grumble. That thing was such a pain to install the first time, largely because of trying to hook up three or four hoses at once. To save some headache I removed the bypass valve first so I only had the two hoses to reconnect in one go (intake manifold and turbo outlet). The PCV itself and vacuum inlet for the intake manifold were much easier to reach without the intercooler in the way. The left can is for PCV vacuum and the right can is for valve cover and PCV pressure. After all the hoses were routed I put the intercooler back on and reconnected everything. I covered the PCV-pressure barb on the intake line with a 5/8" radiator-bypass cap and a hose clamp. I couldn't find any actual vacuum caps that size for a reasonable price or at all locally, and the rad caps seem like pretty much the same thing anyway.

    PXL_20201231_200216159.jpg PXL_20210101_012822042.jpg PXL_20210108_002801013.jpg PXL_20210109_221813533.jpg
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  43. Likes jbs72697, Shawn818c, Kurk818 liked this post
  44. #118
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Fenton MI
    Posts
    184
    Post Thanks / Like
    nice progress!!
    Factory Five 818c #456

  45. #119
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    Fluid fill and pre-start checklist

    I'm finally getting to the fun parts! After installing the oil catch cans, the last thing to do before first start was to fill fluids (oil, trans, and coolant) and check for error codes. Of course there's also all the other check to make sure things are all done, like torque lug nuts, suspension bolts, make sure things are greased, etc., but those were all double/triple checks for me at this point.

    Upon the advice of Kiwi Dave, I purchased a vacuum radiator fill tool that uses a venturi and shop air. I used it and thought I was going crazy - I couldn't get more than about -5" mercury, which wouldn't hold for any amount of time. I had already capped the extra line that ran to the secondary OEM tank, and verified that that was not the leak (and indeed pulled vacuum. I knew I had a leak somewhere, but no way to find it. I figured the quickest/cheapest way to find it was to just start filling the system with distilled water: at $89 a gallon I didn't mind losing some, and I was going to have to add some anyway to dilute the full-strength coolant I bought anyway. I started filling ... quarter gallon ... half gallon ... nothing. Three-quarters. Look down, and finally a wet floor! I trace the leak luckily to a place I could access, right behind the passenger exhaust up-pipe to the turbo.

    PXL_20210113_000849012.jpg

    I thought it was leaking some from both the banjo and the lower fitting. After removing the exhaust pipe (with a nut/bolt that refused to separate except with some extreme measures), I found that the lower fitting was oil and the upper one was a banjo that I guess I ad just never torqued when reinstalling the heads. Lesson learned, and better now than later!

    PXL_20210114_002058162.jpg

    After torqueing the banjo, I was able to pull vacuum and fill the radiator system pretty quickly. It's a wonderful tool. Then I also topped off the spare tank to make sure there was sufficient reserve to pull extra if necessary after the engine was turned over a few times. I used about 1 1/2 gallons of water, 1 1/2 gallons of coolant, and two little bottles of the OEM coolant additive.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  46. Likes DSR-3, Rob T, Kiwi Dave liked this post
  47. #120
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like

    First start!!

    Alright, I took care of all the last-minute items before first start, like checking suspension bolts for tightness, checking fuel lines, fluid levels, ride height, etc. I primed the oil system by removing the spark plugs and cranking the engine for two minutes in 30-second bursts. I had already put a few drops in each cylinder and the turbo bearing. With the help of my wife, I moved the hardtop into the yard and rolled the go-kart stage car out into the driveway. it was a little surreal to have the car out and the garage "empty" for the first time in over two years!

    PXL_20210116_153710468.jpg PXL_20210116_164657434.jpg PXL_20210116_164718473.jpg PXL_20210116_164924055.MP.jpg

    I had a couple friends come over to be with me and my family for first start, as well as lots of distant family who couldn't come because of the pandemic. Kiwi Dave form the forum is a local and is maybe a week or two behind me, so he came to visit for the start. My best friend CrispyRX7 also came over - he's a genius with cars and has tons of experience, plus we've been helping each other on our various car journeys, so I made sure he could here for this milestone. See below for the video showing the big day!



    Long story short, after checking FAS (fuel, air, and spark) it turned out to be a fuel filter-to-outlet grommet that was just old and not sealing well. After we shortcut that I was in business! I've gotten a new grommet and replaced it now.

    PXL_20210116_201019549.jpg PXL_20210116_215840152 ed.jpg
    Last edited by octobersknight; 07-20-2022 at 06:58 PM. Reason: embedded video
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  48. Likes Kiwi Dave, BigDanSubaru liked this post
Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Brown County Customs

Visit our community sponsor