8.50 Certified Chassis

[jimmish]

Some pics of my chassis build. Body needed to be cut down the middle as it wouldn't go over the cage. The next time it goes on will be the last time!12.jpg13.jpgframe 2.jpgFrame 3.jpgFrame 4.jpgFrame 5.jpgFrame 6.jpgFrame 7.jpgFrame 8.jpgFrame 9.jpg

[mike223]

Is that 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" tubing?

DOM?

Just curious.

Nice work.

[GoDadGo]

You & NAZ need to get together and trade NHRA war stories.

[NAZ]

Outstanding! Congratulations -- it takes a lot of work to get that chassis to comply with NHRA rules. Looks like I'm not the first and only one with an NHRA certified roll cage on a FFR "kit car". And maybe more will join the club as they see how much fun it can be.

What class and what tracks will you run this wild car? I'm building mine to run Super Pro at Wild Horse Pass, Tucson, and Vegas. My chassis is done and just waiting for the body to come back from the painter. I also cut out the dash to keep from trapping the body and cut away a good portion of the original body to make room for the roll cage. I took a different tack and replaced everything from the firewall back so I have a half-custom chassis that fits my half stock FFR body. I went with the hard top to avoid having to use a funny car cage and bonded the top on so there'd be no mistaking it for a convertible (think C2 Corvette hard top convertible) which would require the funny car cage. I'm running an old school stroker SBC and 2-speed Powerglide with a brake and 4500 stall 9" converter -- expect to see nines without nitrous even at these high altitude tracks.

Here's a link to my build if your interested.

33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

[jimmish]

Replaced lower square tube with .120 ms, 1.625. Remainder of cage is 1.625 chromemoly

[jimmish]

Original goal was to LSR 200mph. Before I bought the FF kit I checked with Bob Nixon, NHRA tech director, 2 or three chassis builders and Factory Five tech people. Biggest concern was to not have the 30 degree down bars sticking out the back window. That's why we moved the main hoop forward, not quite a funny car cage. The cage widens out for maximum room at the roofline (it will also be street driven) so we sliced the body down the middle. Made the dash removeable with 1/4 turn fasteners so you just unplug the Holley dash and a couple of other harnesses and it comes out. Provides access to the battery then.

Using a 6.0 LS with a 92mm turbo in front. Looking for close to 1000 hp with E85 and 15# boost, then change menu and street drive with 5# and pump gas. Was LSR at the Ohio mile, but that venue closed and they are now racing in Arkansas, not quite the east coast. May go to Loring Maine to try for the 200, or the Texas mile. Will sort it out at some local dragstrips hoping for at least 8.99999.
I like your idea on bonding the top. I used a metal backing strip under the cowl but still intended to glass the roof to the cowl. Will be using removeable lexan side windows on posts that slide into the door and anchor to the frame. working on the electric lock latches.
Marrying the FF harness and the Holley HP EFI harness is difficult, and I am finding lots of problems and inconsistancies in the FF end so that's causing some hair pulling.
If I can straighten out a few more of these problems in the next few weeks I will bring the go cart to the chassis dyno to dial in the turbo and transmission. Engine dyno'ed N/A at 500 with stock 42# injectors and pump gas.

[NAZ]

The wiring harness is an attempt to be all things to all builds -- a tough thing to accomplish. I reviewed the wiring schematic and took one look at the wiring harness FFR supplied and put it back in the box -- returned for a refund. It was easier to wire the car from scratch than modify the RF harness with all the superfluous circuits. Most of my electrical is dedicated to engine & transmission and none of that is anything close to resembling a street car -- line lock, delay box, trans brake, dual two-steps, time based shifter module, fan & water pump controls, etc. The only "street" car items are lights and signals. The lights are run thru one rocker switch and the signals are controlled by a tiny matchbook size controller made for custom built motorcycles. No A/C, power windows, or any other comfort items we normally want on a street car.

Good luck with your build, it should be fun when completed.