Rear wilwood irs brake option questions?

[grooml]

Question? So I now have modified, and assembled the Wilwood, 12.19 T bird irs brake system as per instructions. This is the 4 piston type with the 12.19" rotor, and drum type emergency/parking brake. It was originally designed for a solid rear axle, but comes with retrofit pieces to make it work on the IRS T-Bird type of knuckles. The issue is, in order for the pressed in hub to clear the parking brake assembly it has to be shimmed outward about 1/4". This shim fits between the bearing, and the hub, and is a part of the retrofit kit. It works well as far as clearance is concerned, but my worry is that the hub is now riding on less bearing surface. So the question is, has anyone else used this system in the past? And if so, has anyone had any issues with the hub coming loose, or bearing wearing out prematurely. It's seems like it's just like installing huge offset rims to a regular unequal length control arm car. It would load up all the items on your suspension from the spindle to the ball joints. Also with the t-bird type IRS, there is only about an 1 1/4" of bearing to begin with, very similar to front wheel drive cars. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

[Al_C]

I have the T-Bird IRS, and the Wilwoods. My parking brake is integrated with the disks. I'm not familiar with a drum-style parking brake. I guess the main reason I'm replying here is to ask if you spoke with the Wilwood guys or anybody at FFR about moving the hub out. I would wonder about that as well.

[grooml]

Al_C,
Yes I did speak with FFR, they informed me they didn't use that style either, and therefore couldn't comment. I bought this system from Mike Forte. I called him, and he said that is the normal way to do this. He mentioned if the preload is correct it will be fine. BUT. There isn't any preload. You press the hubs in until they bottom out. That part is still the same, but with a 1/4" less bearing contact. The thought of tracking the car and the hub moving outward scares me a little. Of course it can't come right out due to the rotor, and caliper, as well as the IRS axle being bolted in. But there would be some severe brake pad rubbing, and a wobbly wheel, which would not be fun at cornering at speed. While we're on the topic, how do you like your IRS. Have you driven another Roadster with a stick axle for comparison? I've driven dirt oval for years, but it was a solid rear axle with a spool, I was always curious how an IRS would be. I have also just installed a torsen 2, in the diff. Also curious to see how that plays out.
Thanks
Larry

[Al_C]

Al_C,
Yes I did speak with FFR, they informed me they didn't use that style either, and therefore couldn't comment. I bought this system from Mike Forte. I called him, and he said that is the normal way to do this. He mentioned if the preload is correct it will be fine. BUT. There isn't any preload. You press the hubs in until they bottom out. That part is still the same, but with a 1/4" less bearing contact. The thought of tracking the car and the hub moving outward scares me a little. Of course it can't come right out due to the rotor, and caliper, as well as the IRS axle being bolted in. But there would be some severe brake pad rubbing, and a wobbly wheel, which would not be fun at cornering at speed. While we're on the topic, how do you like your IRS. Have you driven another Roadster with a stick axle for comparison? I've driven dirt oval for years, but it was a solid rear axle with a spool, I was always curious how an IRS would be. I have also just installed a torsen 2, in the diff. Also curious to see how that plays out.
Thanks
Larry

Larry,

I'm not really on the road yet. Just had my first start. I won't go-kart it until I get the 4-wheel alignment done. Nevertheless, I'm happy I went with the IRS. The T-Bird IRS was the only option available when I got my kit. (It just had its third birthday...)