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Thread: Meindl Mk IV Build - Graduation

  1. #121
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    "We had to sand down the spacers some to get them to fit in with the short upper link tube into the bracket on the rear axle. But i think we got them together ok. None of these are torqued down yet."

    Pete, everyone on this forum knows more than I but I had a similar problem with a couple of tabs. It was recommended using a length of threaded rod with washers and nuts to gently spread the tabs apart. This can also obviously be used to bend them closer if needed. Just wanted to mention it if it happens in the future. It may be a better option than sanding down a whole bunch of spacers. Loving that you are in line with my progress. Helps to see someone at the same stages. You will soon pass me I"m sure.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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  3. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteMeindl View Post
    One thing we've noticed is there's a hole in the axle covered by some masking tape - i imagine we're supposed to get some sort of plug and plug this up? Is that right? Here's a picture of where it is (it's still covered by the masking tape).
    I suspect the masking tape is covering the hole where you'd install the axle vent. It keeps the inside of the axle tube from building pressure without letting the lube out. I've got one on my axle, although I think it's on the other side of the differential. Kind of got horsed up a little when I had the banana bracket welded on.
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
    Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.

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  5. #123

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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    "We had to sand down the spacers some to get them to fit in with the short upper link tube into the bracket on the rear axle. But i think we got them together ok. None of these are torqued down yet."

    Pete, everyone on this forum knows more than I but I had a similar problem with a couple of tabs. It was recommended using a length of threaded rod with washers and nuts to gently spread the tabs apart. This can also obviously be used to bend them closer if needed. Just wanted to mention it if it happens in the future. It may be a better option than sanding down a whole bunch of spacers. Loving that you are in line with my progress. Helps to see someone at the same stages. You will soon pass me I"m sure.
    Thanks, Mitchell! Good idea. I've been using a spreader at times as well. Something i didn't know about until I learned it from the forum!
    Yeah, it's definitely fun for me to follow along on your build - Not so sure I'll pass you on build progress, though! Good luck to you.

  6. #124

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    Quote Originally Posted by initiator View Post
    I suspect the masking tape is covering the hole where you'd install the axle vent. It keeps the inside of the axle tube from building pressure without letting the lube out. I've got one on my axle, although I think it's on the other side of the differential. Kind of got horsed up a little when I had the banana bracket welded on.
    Thanks, Initiator! That makes sense. I'll see if i can find one and get it in there.

  7. #125
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteMeindl View Post
    Thanks, Initiator! That makes sense. I'll see if i can find one and get it in there.
    Pete my axle has this same hole that I have left covered so far. Is there something that came with the kit that screws in there? I see it has threads in the opening. If there is something does that then hook to a hose and to another type of vent? I saw in Jazzman's thread that he did that but he has the IRS with the pumpkin.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  8. #126
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    Pete my axle has this same hole that I have left covered so far. Is there something that came with the kit that screws in there? I see it has threads in the opening. If there is something does that then hook to a hose and to another type of vent? I saw in Jazzman's thread that he did that but he has the IRS with the pumpkin.
    That's definitely a hole for the vent. You can either screw the vent directly in there or insert a fitting and attach a hose with the vent up higher in the chassis. I put mine directly in the tube. The part number for the vent 4R3Z-4022-AA. I have pictures in my build thread in post #170 if you want a visual.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
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    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

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  10. #127

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    That's definitely a hole for the vent. You can either screw the vent directly in there or insert a fitting and attach a hose with the vent up higher in the chassis. I put mine directly in the tube. The part number for the vent 4R3Z-4022-AA. I have pictures in my build thread in post #170 if you want a visual.
    Thanks, Mitchell and Yama-Bro. Mitchell - I'm not sure if a part came with the axle to fit in there - i will have to check to see if I have something that I put to the side during inventory that I didn't know what it was for. I'll let you know if I find anything! If not, then YamaBro to the rescue - thanks for the part number, i'll be buying one of those! Thanks for the build thread reference, too - pictures always make understanding all of this much easier!

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  12. #128
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    The Moser 8.8 rear has that hole as a vent. The Ford axle vent is 7/16-20 thread, the Moser vent hole is 1/4NPT. I used an Earls 916144, which is not perfect as the Ford vent is not meant to seal into an AN fitting. But it works and we are not talking about something that carries fluid or even any pressure.





    Oh, and the vent is not included in your F5 kit.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
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    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

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  14. #129

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    The Moser 8.8 rear has that hole as a vent. The Ford axle vent is 7/16-20 thread, the Moser vent hole is 1/4NPT. I used an Earls 916144, which is not perfect as the Ford vent is not meant to seal into an AN fitting. But it works and we are not talking about something that carries fluid or even any pressure.





    Oh, and the vent is not included in your F5 kit.
    Thanks, Boydster! Will get one ordered shortly. Happy thanksgiving.

  15. #130

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    Rear Axle Progress

    Hi guys - hope you all had a good thanksgiving! We've taken some time off from the car for some family activities but we've gotten back to business here and have some good progress. First off, we talked with factory five regarding the fact that the front hubs don't spin much and they told us that this was normal and not to worry. So hopefully that will be ok. We reassembled everything on the front suspension and torqued it all up and have now moved on to the rear axle.

    On the rear axle, we connected the lower control arms to the chassis as well as the short upper link tube. It took a little maneuvering to get all the bolts to fit and we had to use our spreader on one bracket but i think things are connected to the chassis the way they should be. Here's a couple views of the rear:





    We then built the rear shocks, mounted them to the top brackets, took off the rear panhard bar mount, jacked up the rear axle to connect the lower parts of the shocks to the rear axle brackets. From the factory five manual, it looks like you mount the rear shocks with the spring side down. But when we do this, the spring seems to rub pretty significantly against the rear axle bracket, as in the picture here:



    In looking at some other threads, it seems some people have installed the shocks with the spring up and some with the spring down. In looking at the FF manual that we have, as i mentioned, they show the shocks spring down. Interestingly, though, in looking through the manual further along, i did see one picture where the rear shock spring is up.

    Guys, what do you think? For the standard solid moser rear axle, should we flip them to spring up? I'm worried about the rubbing with the spring down (and am not sure we can get them in the brackets with the washer as well given the bracket conflict).

    Thanks a lot for your thoughts!

  16. #131
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Flip 'em. The shock won't know if it's one way or the other.
    (Gotta be a typo or something in the manual... there is no way they'll fit springs down!)
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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    2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021

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  18. #132

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    Thanks, John - sounds good - we will go ahead and flip those guys over! Thanks!

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    More Rear Suspension Work and question on bolts for mounting shocks

    Thanks to John's advice, we flipped the shocks over and they fit great so we torqued up all the bolts related to the rear axle (almost... see below) and now the rear axle is attached to the chassis. This day felt great as getting the rear axle attached with the shocks makes a big visual impression in terms of making some progress. We are excited. Here are a few pictures:







    Question about torquing mounting bolts for rear shocks
    The one issue we ran into when torquing was when we were tightening up the bolts attaching the shocks to the rear axle. The manual says to torque these to 40 ft lbs and when we did this, there was still some space between the nut and the axle bracket (so the nut was not flush). We torqued up to 70 ft lbs and the nut got closer but still was not flush. We can keep going but i just wanted to check to see what you guys thought since this is so much more torque than the manual suggests (and we're not even flush yet). Interestingly, both rear shock lower mountings had this exact same behavior. Is it the wrong nut/bolt combo, I wonder? The bolt also seems long for the job it's doing. Should we just keep driving it in until it's flush? We hesitated from doing this given our past bolt stripping experiences. Here are some pictures to help describe this:

    For comparison purposes, here's the top mounting, which went in fine and is flush at 40 ft lbs:


    Here's a look at the bottom mounting. You can't see the nut inside the axle bracket but it is still maybe 1/8 of an inch away from being flush (at least that's the way it feels when i reach in).


    Just another view, looking down into the bracket, you can see how much longer the bolt is than i might've thought necessary.


    What do you guys think? Keep driving it in until it's flush? Or does it seem i have the wrong hardware? Thanks a lot, guys! We always appreciate your great advice! Also, please let us know if anything looks amiss on the rear suspension. Thank you!

  20. #134
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    I haven’t gotten there yet (haven’t really gotten anywhere yet ), but I would measure the threads sticking out then pull the bolt and see if the nut is bottoming out on the non threaded shoulder of the bolt with the nut threaded in to the measured depth. That is if the bolt is not known to be threaded 100%

    Kurt
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

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    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

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  22. #135
    Senior Member Dagwoods's Avatar
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    Looks like wrong HW

    Hello,

    Think you may have the wrong bolt for lower mount. Just went out to the shop and took a few pics.

    This is passenger side lower shock mount bolt(maybe an 1/8th of thread past locknut):

    IMG_20181202_205051.jpg

    This is Driver side lower mount bolt (maybe an 1/8th of thread past locknut):

    IMG_20181202_204821.jpg

    And this is the bolt head. This is a grade 8 bolt as you can see from the head marks. Yours looks silver, not gold, like mine. What grade is yours?

    IMG_20181202_204837.jpg

    And a poor recreation (backwards) of you last pic showing how much thread sticking out:

    IMG_20181202_204810.jpg

    Cheers,

    Andrew
    Last edited by Dagwoods; 12-02-2018 at 10:19 PM.
    Mk IV base kit #9273 Delivered 1/29/2018
    3-link Moser 8.8 3.55
    TKO 600
    427w by Fordstrokers w/Holly sniper efi/hyperspark distro and ignition

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  24. #136

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    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post
    I haven’t gotten there yet (haven’t really gotten anywhere yet ), but I would measure the threads sticking out then pull the bolt and see if the nut is bottoming out on the non threaded shoulder of the bolt with the nut threaded in to the measured depth. That is if the bolt is not known to be threaded 100%

    Kurt
    Thanks, Kurt - great idea. I'll go check this out and see if that's the issue....

    Just got back from looking at it - Kurt, you were exactly right about what was happening! Thanks. I need some different hardware.
    Last edited by PeteMeindl; 12-03-2018 at 10:28 PM.

  25. #137

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagwoods View Post
    Hello,

    Think you may have the wrong bolt for lower mount. Just went out to the shop and took a few pics.

    This is passenger side lower shock mount bolt(maybe an 1/8th of thread past locknut):

    IMG_20181202_205051.jpg

    This is Driver side lower mount bolt (maybe an 1/8th of thread past locknut):

    IMG_20181202_204821.jpg

    And this is the bolt head. This is a grade 8 bolt as you can see from the head marks. Yours looks silver, not gold, like mine. What grade is yours?

    IMG_20181202_204837.jpg

    And a poor recreation (backwards) of you last pic showing how much thread sticking out:

    IMG_20181202_204810.jpg

    Cheers,

    Andrew
    Thanks, Andrew - I really appreciate you going out and taking those pictures. Yeah, looks like we have the wrong hardware - that makes sense. We'll contact FF and order some new bolts. Thank you!
    Last edited by PeteMeindl; 12-03-2018 at 10:28 PM.

  26. #138
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    I get lucky sometimes lol I’m glad I could actually help.

    Kurt
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

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    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

  27. #139
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    Lol This guy is every mans hero... I think if I tried this my first call should be to my lawyer to discuss my impending divorce hearing.... WELL DONE SIR cant wait to read the rest...

  28. #140

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    Rear Suspension Just About Done

    This weekend we got some new bolts to mount the rear shocks to the axle brackets - these work much better than the ones we had trouble with that I mentioned above. Thanks again for the advice on this, guys - that was really helpful. We had to undo a number of the bolts connecting the bracket to the axle in order to have enough wiggle room to get things aligned again to get that rear shock bolt through the bracket. But with some help and a little jiggling around, we were about to get the new bolts through and get the shocks mounted. We then torqued everything up and I think it's in good shape. The only thing on the rear axle we still need to do is attach the brakes and we're currently waiting on the rear brake pads, so that's on hold. Once those come in, we'll attach the brakes and i think that part of the car will be done. So good news!

    We started work on some next steps, mainly beginning on the pedal box. Prior to that, we marked and drilled the aluminum panels for the firewall and the drivers side footbox front panel. We acetoned them off and sharkhided them. We haven't riveted them on yet and it sounds like it's a good idea to hold off on some of the riveting on the front of the footbox as some future panels will be slotted in there. So our plan is to rivet the firewall and the top part of the footbox front panel but hold off on the rest for now. In addition, we painted the brackets and some of the other bare steel parts for the pedal box. Right now we're waiting for all that to dry.

    I think this might be the first weekly update where i don't have a big list of questions to send out to you guys... But make no mistake, I'm sure I'll be back to asking a million questions in no time! Have a good week!

  29. #141
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    We haven't riveted them on yet and it sounds like it's a good idea to hold off on some of the riveting on the front of the footbox as some future panels will be slotted in there. So our plan is to rivet the firewall and the top part of the footbox front panel but hold off on the rest for now.
    #9365 is my 1st build, and quite frankly the thought of riveting the panels scared me. The "permanence" of it... Did I forget something? My car was in cleco's until I couldn't come up with a reason to not rivet.
    Some advise from another 1st timer - consider everything that deals with the firewall before thinking about rivets...
    - Wiring grommet holes
    - Heater box
    - Wiper motor
    - (optional) Center brace (fabricated by you)

    Driver's front footbox panel is a go... nearly everything is keyed off of it.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021

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  31. #142

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    Thanks for the advice, John. That makes sense - will cleco the firewall.

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    Panels and the Pedal Box

    This weekend we drilled all the rivet holes for the firewall and the driver's side footbox front panel. I have to say, after drilling a couple dozen holes, one can start to feel it in your shoulder! Per good advice, we held off on riveting them and have just cleco'd them in. Here's a view:



    Then we went to work on the pedal box. We mounted both switch mounts and then connected the switches to the mounts. We assembled the clutch pedal as well and put it back into the pedal box. We then attached the mounting bracket to the pedal box. So far things seem to be coming together pretty well. We had a little hurdle in that the manual we have has a different version of the mounting bracket and clutch pedal stop and so we were a little stumped for a while... but we looked at the ffr instructions section and found a new supplement for the wilwood pedal box which had our version of the clutch pedal stop. Good lesson for us to try to remember to check the new instructions section if we ever run into something that seems like a different set of parts. Also, one of our supplied bolts for the clutch pedal is a little longer than specified in the manual, but I don't think it's causing any interference so I think it's ok. Here are some pictures:

    After installing the switch mounts and switches:


    And two pictures after we put the assembled pedals back in the pedal box.




    Next steps: tightening up all the bolts and then installing the pedal box!

    We may not get too much done over the next week or two given all sorts of holiday activities. If we don't get a chance to post - happy holidays to all you guys! Thank you for all of your help that you've given us!

  33. #144
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Lookin' good!

    (I'm kinda looking at the "40 Watt" as a sanctuary in the upcoming weeks... When things get to the "family overload" level I can escape for awhile and get my head back on straight!)
    Best Wishes to You & Yours!
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021

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  35. #145

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Lookin' good!

    (I'm kinda looking at the "40 Watt" as a sanctuary in the upcoming weeks... When things get to the "family overload" level I can escape for awhile and get my head back on straight!)
    Best Wishes to You & Yours!
    I hear ya, John - That's a good idea!

  36. #146
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Looking good. Keep the pics coming!

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  38. #147

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    Pedal Box installed and question on master cylinders

    Today we tightened up the bolts on the pedal box and temporarily mounted it so that we could mark where to drill the holes for the rear pedal box bracket. We then took out the pedal box, drilled the holes, and then remounted the pedal box. Oh - and we riveted some of the front driver's foot box panel since it seems that now that the pedal box is in, that panel is hopefully not coming out. Things went smoothly, I think (famous last words...). In looking at next steps with the master cylinders, we have two master cylinders of different sizes (one is 0.75 and the other is 0.625) - does it matter where each of them goes? I didn't see any mention in my manual of it and from a couple build threads I've looked at, i can't quite tell what side each is on. Thanks, guys! Happy holiday!

    A couple pictures of the installed pedal box:





  39. #148
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    It doesn't really matter where you mount the Master Cyl just as long as you have the 3/4" going to the front and the 5/8 to the rear... On my build, I have the 3/4" (.75) in the middle slot. Just be sure to adjust the brake bias appropriately when that time comes. Your Build is looking great... Happy Holidays

    Brake System above Pedals.jpg
    Last edited by BadAsp427; 12-21-2018 at 08:31 PM.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb/Heater/Heated Seats/Cruise Control/Drop Trunk & Battery/Custom Cubby

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  41. #149
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    It doesn't really matter where you mount the Master Cyl just as long as you have the 3/4" going to the front and the 5/8 to the rear... On my build, I have the 3/4" (.75) in the middle slot. Just be sure to adjust the brake bias appropriately when that time comes.
    Agree with this response. It doesn't matter. The tiebreaker for me is how the brake lines route. Put them in the position that works best for your planned brake line routing to the front and back. I've personally found the outside one routes best to the rear (5/8 inch) and the middle one to the front (3/4). But your experience and plan may vary. The other hint is to set the initial adjustment just like it describes in the build manual. With everything centered and the proper clearance. Adjustments from there won't happen until you're done and driving.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  43. #150

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    Thanks, BadAsp and Paul - sounds good!

  44. #151

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    master cylinder and accelerator install & starting work on the steering

    Hey guys, hope everyone is enjoying the holidays. We've had progress on a couple fronts. First, we installed the master cylinders and the accelerator. Since we have a coyote, we used the accelerator included with the coyote rather than the standard ff one that also came with the kit. I think things went pretty smoothly overall. The brake pushes in the rear master cylinder well before the front one but i think that's an adjustment i should make at the end once the entire braking system is set up.

    One thing we ran into was that we couldn't fit the coyote accelerator between the installed accelerator bracket and the frame so we had to go back and unattach the accelerator bracket and then slot both the bracket and the accelerator in at the same time. Here are a couple pictures:

    Master cylinders:


    Accelerator:


    Accelerator side view:


    One other thing - in the main ffr manual, they show some instructions about a throttle cable at this point. I think, given we're using the coyote accelerator, that we don't have to deal with the throttle cable - is that right?

    Then we moved on to start the steering - and to do something to the engine for the first time, which is exciting. We went with power steering so first, we removed the coyote's serpentine belt and the 3 bolts from the engine that will hold the power steering bracket. Then we installed the bracket which we see here:


    Then we installed the new water pump pulley:


    Finally, we mounted the power steering pump and put the serpentine back on, as well as the new belt connecting the power steering pump. Here:


    Our dog was a big help!

    One other note, you can see how we've put our engine & stand on a furniture dolly as the wheels on the stand have became a little too bent to be usable. But so far this has worked out ok.

  45. #152
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Nope, no throttle cable for the Coyote. Good luck finding a place to hook one up on the engine. Like nearly all modern engines, it's drive-by-wire (DBW) with no physical connection between the accelerator pedal and the engine itself. It's hard to tell too much from your picture. Did you follow the directions in the Factory Five Coyote installation instructions for modifying the pedal? As far as mounting, need to make sure it clears the steering column including where the connector from the Coyote control pack harness plugs into it. The pedal does look a little close to the brake pedal. You may want to trial fit the inner footbox panel and check the distance. Might be room to have it over some, and even be more comfortable that way.

    Just a general hint. Use the Factory Five Coyote installation instructions, along with the Ford Performance instructions, as your primary guide. The differences in the Coyote installation aren't specifically mentioned in the general Roadster manual. At least any that I've seen.

    As far as your brakes, don't judge anything regarding balance without fluid in the system and bled. Even then, I wouldn't recommend trying to adjust anything without actually driving and testing. The key at this point is to follow the instructions and center the balance bar, make sure you have the required clearance on each side, and also that your two master cylinders are installed with the pushrods the same.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  47. #153
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I've found when sitting in #9365, making vroomvroom noises and practicing "heel & toe" that my size 9 wides tend to hang up on the pedal pads. I'm going to shift the brake & clutch pedal pads to the right-most holes - effectively moving the pads left, away from the go pedal.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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    2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021

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  49. #154

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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Nope, no throttle cable for the Coyote. Good luck finding a place to hook one up on the engine. Like nearly all modern engines, it's drive-by-wire (DBW) with no physical connection between the accelerator pedal and the engine itself. It's hard to tell too much from your picture. Did you follow the directions in the Factory Five Coyote installation instructions for modifying the pedal? As far as mounting, need to make sure it clears the steering column including where the connector from the Coyote control pack harness plugs into it. The pedal does look a little close to the brake pedal. You may want to trial fit the inner footbox panel and check the distance. Might be room to have it over some, and even be more comfortable that way.

    Just a general hint. Use the Factory Five Coyote installation instructions, along with the Ford Performance instructions, as your primary guide. The differences in the Coyote installation aren't specifically mentioned in the general Roadster manual. At least any that I've seen.

    As far as your brakes, don't judge anything regarding balance without fluid in the system and bled. Even then, I wouldn't recommend trying to adjust anything without actually driving and testing. The key at this point is to follow the instructions and center the balance bar, make sure you have the required clearance on each side, and also that your two master cylinders are installed with the pushrods the same.
    Thanks, Paul! That's good news. Yes, we did follow the FF coyote fitment instructions for modifying the accelerator pedal - so we cut it to make it shorter and flipped the actual pedal up. Yeah, i agree, the pedal is a little close to the brake. We tried to mount the accelerator as far as we could to the right of the brake but it still seems close. John's idea below may help us out some there. Also, we'll leave the brakes alone for now - thanks!

    Finally, thanks for the advice on the manual, too!

  50. #155
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    I've found when sitting in #9365, making vroomvroom noises and practicing "heel & toe" that my size 9 wides tend to hang up on the pedal pads. I'm going to shift the brake & clutch pedal pads to the right-most holes - effectively moving the pads left, away from the go pedal.
    I can promise you those Vroomvroom noises you are making are not nearly loud enough!!!

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
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  51. #156

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    I've found when sitting in #9365, making vroomvroom noises and practicing "heel & toe" that my size 9 wides tend to hang up on the pedal pads. I'm going to shift the brake & clutch pedal pads to the right-most holes - effectively moving the pads left, away from the go pedal.
    Really clever idea! Thanks, John. Effective and totally easy.

  52. #157

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    Trouble: steering shaft rubbing in 2 places

    Hi guys, we started to install the power steering rack today and thought we needed to connect the steering shaft to do that job right so we switched over to getting the steering shaft in place and ran into 2 problems, both related to the shaft rubbing. One place is the frame and, as Paul foreshadowed yesterday, the other is the accelerator.

    The first problem is that if we run the steering shaft from the footbox wall up to the pillow block (with the accelerator removed so that's not an issue), we see that the steering shaft is in contact with the frame. Here's a picture:


    One thought was we could put spacers in or do something to slightly raise the pillow block which could solve this issue but would worsen the contact issue we also have with the accelerator.

    In trying to run the steering shaft up to the pillow block, the shaft also ran into the accelerator. We removed the accelerator and show where it was hitting here:


    We thought we could solve this by shaving off up to a centimeter of the plastic on the accelerator. We did this and remounted it - the shaft now can run up to the pillow block but it still rubs the bolt head on the accelerator. Here are a couple pictures. We'd like to move the accelerator to the right but we're already moved it as far to the right as we think is possible as the accelerator bracket is now up against the frame.





    So now the steering shaft can be mounted but something's not right with the rubbing we're seeing in both of the situations above. And we're not really sure what a good solution would be.

    We'd love any advice you guys have - thank you!

  53. #158

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    Good news - progress on steering shaft, although still some questions

    So some good news - after we did some research into a number of other build threads (thanks, Paul!), we saw that often times people need to move the flange bearing from outside the drivers footbox to inside the box. Once we did that, this slight angle change led to the steering shaft no longer touching the bracket for the gas pedal - great news! We still have the issue of the upper steering shaft touching the frame but i think we can solve that with some spacers under the pillow block.

    We also installed the steering rack and the tie rods and attached them. I think this all went pretty well. We then attached the steering shaft to the steering rack - it was fun to see the suspension turn when you turn the steering shaft! Here are some pictures and a couple questions at the end.

    Steering rack installed, before putting on tie rods:


    Connecting a tie rod on the left:


    Steering rack fully installed:


    Steering shaft installed:


    Pillow block:


    We have a couple questions:
    - When looking at other build threads, we don't often see a frame extension sticking towards where the driver sits where you mount the pillow block that far back (as you see in the above picture). It looks like FF drilled holes for the pillow block at the far end of the bracket. Should we move the placement of the pillow block further towards the front of the car and drill some new holes or just keep it where it is? It just seems like most of the time people mount this pillow block further forward. Either way, we'll need to add a decent sized spacer to raise the pillow block enough to keep the steering shaft off of the frame - I think this is ok, right?
    - In the manual, it mentions to use threadlocker on the steering shaft but we weren't quite sure where - where do you guys use threadlocker on the steering shaft?

    Thanks a lot, guys! Happy new year to you all!

  54. #159
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Keep the pillow block where it is. That’s the new FFR design. You will need spacers to pick the steering shaft up a little for clearance. If you have RT’s turn signal mod he provides clearance for you. Only place I can think of for threadlocker on the steering shaft would be on the screw that holds the steering wheel. Build is looking good!!
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
    Build Thread #1: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread
    MKIV Roadster - #TBD - Complete Kit - Delivered 11/6/23 - In Progress
    Build Thread #2: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Build-Thread-2

  55. #160

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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Keep the pillow block where it is. That’s the new FFR design. You will need spacers to pick the steering shaft up a little for clearance. If you have RT’s turn signal mod he provides clearance for you. Only place I can think of for threadlocker on the steering shaft would be on the screw that holds the steering wheel. Build is looking good!!
    Thanks, CV! Makes sense! happy new year to you.

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