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Thread: Meindl Mk IV Build - Graduation

  1. #201

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    Quote Originally Posted by initiator View Post
    Do you have your wheels and tires yet? I had to mess with the front brake flex lines in order to avoid rubbing the tire when the wheels turn side-to-side. Eventually went with a 90-degree fitting (pointed down) right at the chassis end of each line that solved it. That trick came from this forum.
    Good idea, Initiator - we do have wheels and tires but we haven't put them on yet. We'll check that out and see what the clearance is on the brake lines. Thanks a lot!

  2. #202

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    Brake Lines

    This weekend we had the chance to work on our brake lines some more and made some progress. Ours aren't the best looking out there, that's for sure, but we're hoping that they're functionally ok! First thing we did was mount the 2 new brake reservoirs, using a mount we modeled after Papa's great work.


    Here's a view of our connection from the reservoirs to the master cylinders:


    Then we started running the brake lines from the master cylinders to the brakes. Here's the line running to the left front brake:


    Here's the line running across the front of the car from the left to the right:


    Then we ran the line from the master cylinder for the rear down the front of the footbox:


    Here's the line running under the car:


    More pictures in the next post in a second, here!

  3. #203

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    More brake lines

    Here's a continuation of our brake line post.

    Here's the brake line up to the left rear brake:


    Another of the left rear:


    Then we ran the line over to the right rear. This was not the most elegant job one has ever done, as you can see... but again, hopefully it's functional!


    Finally, the right rear brake with the flexible line:


    We were excited at this point to go get some brake fluid and see if our brakes would work! So we were tightening up all the fittings and as we were torquing the banjo bolts to the rear brakes, the bolt broke in two... Here's a view of the broken bolt in the brake:


    Two steps forward, one step back! So next step for us is to figure out how to get that bolt out of the brake... I guess we could try to drill it out. I'm a little worried about shavings getting into the brake but not sure what a better idea would be. If anyone has any suggestions, we'd love to hear them! Thanks, guys!

  4. #204
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Hi Pete,
    Just to double check.... is the hose from your reservoirs to the master cylinders rated for brake fluid?

    Kurt
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

    Build thread

    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

  5. #205

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    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post
    Hi Pete,
    Just to double check.... is the hose from your reservoirs to the master cylinders rated for brake fluid?

    Kurt
    Thanks, Kurt. We used the hoses that came with the brake reservoirs from CNC so I think they are ok. Thanks for the check!

  6. #206
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    Pete,

    If you can't get that bolt out of the caliper (I agree that drilling isn't a good option), those calipers aren't very expensive. I'd try to get some vice grips on it and see what happens. If you do have to drill, just get the hole large enough to get an extractor bit in there. You can coat the drill bit with grease to help capture the shavings.

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 02-18-2019 at 09:43 PM.
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  8. #207

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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Pete,

    If you can't get that bolt out of the caliper (I agree that drilling isn't a good option), those calipers aren't very expensive. I'd try to get some vice grips on it and see what happens. If you do have to drill, just get the hole large enough to get an extractor bit in there. You can coat the drill bit with grease to help capture the shavings.

    Dave
    Thanks, Dave! Glad to hear those calipers aren't too expensive - I thought it might be a decent amount of money. Thanks for the tips - we'll try them out and see if we have any luck!

  9. #208

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    If that banjo bolt does not come out with your fingers it suggests the bolt is too long and you ran out of threads. The replacement should be a little shorter.
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  11. #209
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Don't follow the manual torque specs on those banjo bolts. I think its 24 ft/lbs or something like that. I snapped the heads off two banjo bolts before I realized it was wrong. Just tighten a bit, test and tighten a little more at a time until it stops leaking. I used a 1/4" ratchet to limit the amount of force when turning. My broken bolts just twisted out easily, but if you can't get it out, calipers are $85 for two at the local auto parts. Just check them before you leave and ensure that bleeder screws aren't stripped out, as they are all refurbs.

    Two observations on your brake line routing. Is the line that's going across the rear differential floating? I tried to secure the lines as close to a support beam whenever possible, more for protection than anything else. Might just be the picture. Also, the rear brake line that you have coming down the front of the footbox will be close to the header that comes right across there. Just something to think about.

    Again, no expert here, just thought I'd mention it. Looks like you are making quick progress!!
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  13. #210
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    If that banjo bolt does not come out with your fingers it suggests the bolt is too long and you ran out of threads.
    Another possibility... Did you install the bronze/copper/? crush washers on each side of the fitting? With those in place they'll take up about 5/32 - 1/8". Could be why the bolt bottomed out..
    E-Brake01.jpg Kinda a crappy picture, but as shown in the pic its caliper/washer/fitting/washer/bolt.
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  15. #211
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    And if it hasn't been mentioned already, I suggest replacing the Aluminum banjo washers with copper ones, which can be found at your average auto parts store.
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  17. #212
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I'd seriously reconsider your routing of the rear brake main feeder...

    Then we ran the line from the master cylinder for the rear down the front of the footbox:


    Regardless of what powerplant you're using, that location is going to be only fractions of an inch from the exhaust header. This is pic of 9365 using a Coyote
    Headers_11.png

    I'll recommend you run the line inside the footbox, along the 3/4"sq. tube where the gas pedal bolts to, and out between the 3/4"sq. and the 2" round tube.
    Lines02.png IMG_3957_zpsapkf0x3i.jpg This route keeps it away from heat as far as practical, and isn't too difficult to do.

    (Your front "crossover" line looks fine... unless you intend to use the Breeze front battery box/mount. If so the line might be/is in the way.)
    Battery_01.png
    Last edited by Fixit; 02-19-2019 at 06:24 PM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
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  19. #213

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Reynolds View Post
    If that banjo bolt does not come out with your fingers it suggests the bolt is too long and you ran out of threads. The replacement should be a little shorter.
    Thanks, Mark. The banjo bolt wouldn't go in (or out) with just finger turning, unfortunately, once the bolt got more than a couple turns in. Thanks!

  20. #214

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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Don't follow the manual torque specs on those banjo bolts. I think its 24 ft/lbs or something like that. I snapped the heads off two banjo bolts before I realized it was wrong. Just tighten a bit, test and tighten a little more at a time until it stops leaking. I used a 1/4" ratchet to limit the amount of force when turning. My broken bolts just twisted out easily, but if you can't get it out, calipers are $85 for two at the local auto parts. Just check them before you leave and ensure that bleeder screws aren't stripped out, as they are all refurbs.

    Two observations on your brake line routing. Is the line that's going across the rear differential floating? I tried to secure the lines as close to a support beam whenever possible, more for protection than anything else. Might just be the picture. Also, the rear brake line that you have coming down the front of the footbox will be close to the header that comes right across there. Just something to think about.

    Again, no expert here, just thought I'd mention it. Looks like you are making quick progress!!
    Thanks, CV! Always appreciate your advice and encouragement! I'll follow your comments and not torque those banjo bolts in once i get a new one here. Thanks for the brake line comments - yeah, you can't see it in my picture but the rear one is attached at two points to the frame in front of the fuel tank. Good point on the line going in front of the footbox. I was following the ffr manual but didn't think about the heat from those headers. Fixit pointed this out too. Sounds like i should move that inside the footbox to keep it away from the heat. Thanks a lot for the good tip! Enjoying following your build - i'm impressed!

  21. #215

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Another possibility... Did you install the bronze/copper/? crush washers on each side of the fitting? With those in place they'll take up about 5/32 - 1/8". Could be why the bolt bottomed out..
    E-Brake01.jpg Kinda a crappy picture, but as shown in the pic its caliper/washer/fitting/washer/bolt.
    Hi John, Thanks! Yeah, we did have those crush washers in there. The bolt broke while it was still about 1/4 inch from the caliper too so it seems like it wouldn't be too close to bottoming out. There was some resistance to it turning.

  22. #216

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    Quote Originally Posted by initiator View Post
    And if it hasn't been mentioned already, I suggest replacing the Aluminum banjo washers with copper ones, which can be found at your average auto parts store.
    Thanks, Initiator! I'll get the copper ones. Appreciate it!

  23. #217

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    I'd seriously reconsider your routing of the rear brake main feeder...




    Regardless of what powerplant you're using, that location is going to be only fractions of an inch from the exhaust header. This is pic of 9365 using a Coyote
    Headers_11.png

    I'll recommend you run the line inside the footbox, along the 3/4"sq. tube where the gas pedal bolts to, and out between the 3/4"sq. and the 2" round tube.
    Lines02.png IMG_3957_zpsapkf0x3i.jpg This route keeps it away from heat as far as practical, and isn't too difficult to do.

    (Your front "crossover" line looks fine... unless you intend to use the Breeze front battery box/mount. If so the line might be/is in the way.)
    Battery_01.png
    Thanks, John! This is really helpful with the pictures of how you ran your lines - that makes it very clear. By the way, your lines look great! I'm totally impressed. On the battery issue, we're going to have ours in the back so hopefully that front cross over line will be ok. Thanks a lot, again, for the detailed help!

  24. #218
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Hi John, Thanks! Yeah, we did have those crush washers in there. The bolt broke while it was still about 1/4 inch from the caliper too so it seems like it wouldn't be too close to bottoming out. There was some resistance to it turning.
    Something wasn't right... you should be able to run those banjo bolts all the way in to where they seat everything together by hand (or by using a socket twirled with your fingers), then put a wrench on it to tweak them tight.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021

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  26. #219

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Something wasn't right... you should be able to run those banjo bolts all the way in to where they seat everything together by hand (or by using a socket twirled with your fingers), then put a wrench on it to tweak them tight.
    Thanks, John. If/when we get that bolt out, we'll check to see that the new banjo bolt goes in easier. Otherwise, we'll check it on a new caliper. Thank you!

  27. #220

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    I'd seriously reconsider your routing of the rear brake main feeder...




    Regardless of what powerplant you're using, that location is going to be only fractions of an inch from the exhaust header. This is pic of 9365 using a Coyote
    Headers_11.png

    I'll recommend you run the line inside the footbox, along the 3/4"sq. tube where the gas pedal bolts to, and out between the 3/4"sq. and the 2" round tube.
    Lines02.png IMG_3957_zpsapkf0x3i.jpg This route keeps it away from heat as far as practical, and isn't too difficult to do.

    (Your front "crossover" line looks fine... unless you intend to use the Breeze front battery box/mount. If so the line might be/is in the way.)
    Battery_01.png
    You guys make a good point about the brake line being near the header - do you think it's possible to wrap some sort of insulation around the brake line to try to keep it from getting too hot? Or is rerouting the only real way to go to be sure that the car is safe? Thanks!

  28. #221
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    I would suggest putting it inside... I was able to run mine down the inside front corner and it is now behind the carpet out of the way. And out of the heat. Perhaps you these photos will help. The second is where it came out of my DS floor next to the 4" frame. The red arrows are all pointing at the same line as it comes out of the M/C. And FWIW, I had mine on the outside as well but once I saw how close the headers were going to be to it, it was a no brainer to move it to the inside.
    IMG_2338-v1.jpg IMG_2341.JPG

    What I did to begin with and changed.
    IMG_2251v2.jpg
    Last edited by BadAsp427; 02-20-2019 at 08:46 PM.

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  30. #222

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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    I would suggest putting it inside... I was able to run mine down the inside front corner and it is now behind the carpet out of the way. And out of the heat. Perhaps you these photos will help. The second is where it came out of my DS floor next to the 4" frame. The red arrows are all pointing at the same line as it comes out of the M/C. And FWIW, I had mine on the outside as well but once I saw how close the headers were going to be to it, it was a no brainer to move it to the inside.
    IMG_2338-v1.jpg IMG_2341.JPG

    What I did to begin with and changed.
    IMG_2251v2.jpg
    Thanks for those pictures - that helps a lot! Your lines look great, too, by the way. We've got a ways to go til we learn to bend them like you guys can! thanks, again.

  31. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteMeindl View Post
    You guys make a good point about the brake line being near the header - do you think it's possible to wrap some sort of insulation around the brake line to try to keep it from getting too hot? Or is rerouting the only real way to go to be sure that the car is safe? Thanks!
    If it was fuel on a recirculating system it just might be OK. But brake fluid has very little, if any movement... the fluid in that area would almost certainly boil into a gas, and gasses compress. Without testing and recording temps, etc, nobody can say if it would be OK by wrapping and still have you stay safe. Re routing is the only way to be sure. Sorry...
    ---Boyd---
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  33. #224
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Bending tight radii or circles isn't as hard as it looks.
    I primarily use a common hand bender for anything from "just a jog/offset" to a little over 90 degs.
    The secret to circles or near circles is having a stash of various diameter round stock & pipe chunks, and/or large size deep sockets to act as dies.

    Clamp a hunk of pipe/die in the vise, do a pre-bend on the line with the bending tool. Then gently coax the line around your die. Obviously go slow and don't kink it.
    You can usually use about 5x the line O.D. as a minimum bend diameter. Having strong hands is also a big help!
    FrontLines15.png
    This was bent around a 3/4" deep socket

    Lines01.pngLines02.png
    The loops were bent around a hunk of 1-1/8" OD pipe.

    It just takes practice.

    Having the tools & ability to put your own ends on & flare the line(s) is also a great help. You're not restricted by pre-made ends getting in the way.
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  35. #225

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    If it was fuel on a recirculating system it just might be OK. But brake fluid has very little, if any movement... the fluid in that area would almost certainly boil into a gas, and gasses compress. Without testing and recording temps, etc, nobody can say if it would be OK by wrapping and still have you stay safe. Re routing is the only way to be sure. Sorry...
    Got it - Thanks, Boydster. Sounds like rerouting is the best way to go. We'll get it done this weekend - Thanks!

  36. #226

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Bending tight radii or circles isn't as hard as it looks.
    I primarily use a common hand bender for anything from "just a jog/offset" to a little over 90 degs.
    The secret to circles or near circles is having a stash of various diameter round stock & pipe chunks, and/or large size deep sockets to act as dies.

    Clamp a hunk of pipe/die in the vise, do a pre-bend on the line with the bending tool. Then gently coax the line around your die. Obviously go slow and don't kink it.
    You can usually use about 5x the line O.D. as a minimum bend diameter. Having strong hands is also a big help!
    FrontLines15.png
    This was bent around a 3/4" deep socket

    Lines01.pngLines02.png
    The loops were bent around a hunk of 1-1/8" OD pipe.

    It just takes practice.

    Having the tools & ability to put your own ends on & flare the line(s) is also a great help. You're not restricted by pre-made ends getting in the way.
    Ahhhh, ok, thanks, John! We were just using the line bender tool. We'll use some cylinders we can wrap around when we do our re-route. I'm sure they won't look as good as your perfect circles, but this will be a big improvement. Thanks!

  37. #227
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    The line material is really amazingly malleable in the small diameters. You just have to "work it" with your hands or around a tool.

    Like I said, just practice.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021

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  39. #228

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    Rear Brake Banjo Bolt, Rerunning Brake Lines, and Starting the Electrical system

    Banjo Bolts in Brakes:
    This weekend we worked on 3 main things. First was to try to get our brakes all hooked up. As you saw earlier, we broke one of our banjo bolts while installing them in our rear brake calipers. We tried a variety of methods to try to twist it out, but we just couldn't get it out. So we decided to try to drill it out. Given the banjo bolt already has a hole right down the center, we were easily able to correctly line up the drill to work from the center out, increasing the bit size gradually. This seemed to work pretty well and we eventually got the bolt out with the threads in the caliper looking pretty intact.

    Just to be sure, though, we retapped the threads (something i'd never done before) in the caliper. We then tried a new banjo bolt - and just like you guys said, this one twisted in just fine by hand. We used some brake cleaner to try to flush out any shaving from the banjo bolt incident and when we bleed the brakes we'll try to run some extra fluid through this caliper to try to clean out anything that we might not have gotten. Hopefully that will work.

    We tightened down all four banjo bolts now (without torquing them this time) and i think the brakes are hopefully ready.

    Rerunning brake lines
    Given your good advice, we decided to pull out our rear brake line that had originally run down the front of the driver's footbox and reran the line down the inside of the footbox and out a hole we drilled in the bottom of the footbox. Hopefully this is better:

    Here's the line coming down from the master cylinders:


    And here's the line coming out the hole in the footbox and running back along the chassis:

    I'm wondering whether we should fill in that hole around the brake line - if so, what's a good material to do this with?

    At this point, i think we're basically ready to put some fluid in the brakes and see if they work. We've never done this before (so wish us luck!) and we're excited to see if we can get the brakes to stop a spinning tire... Hopefully we'll get to that next weekend.

    Electrical
    So we made an initial baby step into working on the electrical system. We ran the fuse box through the gap in the firewall and then down into the footbox where we mounted it. Here's a pic:


    That's where things stand right now. Thanks a lot, guys!
    Last edited by PeteMeindl; 02-24-2019 at 10:25 PM.

  40. #229
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    Looks great... I filled the hole in the floor with the same silicon that I've used on all of my panels. I really put a good amount in the hole and around the top of the hole to be sure it is water tight. That is under the carpet anyway so I was pretty generous with it.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
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  42. #230

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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Looks great... I filled the hole in the floor with the same silicon that I've used on all of my panels. I really put a good amount in the hole and around the top of the hole to be sure it is water tight. That is under the carpet anyway so I was pretty generous with it.
    Got it - makes sense. Thanks a lot, BadAsp!

  43. #231
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    I used a rubber grommet to fill the hole. Only thing is that you have to put the grommet on and run it down the line, so may or may not be an option for you.
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
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  45. #232
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Sure sounds like either the threads on the banjo bolt or in the caliper were bugger'd. Glad you got it fixed.

    x2 or 3... just goober up the hole with some silicone.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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  47. #233
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    I got a variety pack of rubber grommets for cheap. This location needed to have the grommet slit on one side since the tube was already installed. Looking good!
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
    Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.

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  49. #234

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    Bleeding the brakes

    No real pictures from this weekend but i think we did make some progress as we put brake fluid in our brakes and bled them. A quick little test showed that the brakes do stop a spinning wheel (which is a good start!). Here's what we did:
    - We have 2 reservoirs and we started by filling the front one 3/4 with brake fluid.
    - We have an air pressure bleeder cap, so we installed that on the reservoir and attached a bike pump to apply some air pressure to the brake fluid.
    - Then we applied a few PSI of air pressue... and brake fluid started coming out of a number of our connections... But this was good news as it was at least a sign that fluid was going through the system! We then refilled our reservoir.
    - We tightened up the connections with the leaks, and then opened up the bleeder valve on the right front brake.
    - Brake fluid started coming out and we let it flow until we stopped seeing air bubbles.
    - Then we closed that valve and opened the left front brake and did the same thing.
    - Then the moment of truth came - we put on a tire, spun it, and pressed the brake pedal - the tire stopped! High fives all around.

    We did the same thing for the rear brakes and the same test - it worked as well. Really happy to see this.

    One side note related to some earlier issues with our front hubs - our front tires take a little effort to spin. Not as much as the rear, certainly, but if you give them a good push, they don't spin that much - less than 1 full rotation. Hopefully that is ok but i'm not sure. It that's not ok, a couple thoughts as to what might be going on: 1) it does sound, even when the brakes aren't applied, that there is some rubbing against the brake pads when the wheel spins and 2) i remember when we installed the hubs they seemed to turn more freely before they were fully torqued down.

    Hopefully all of that is ok. Overall, though, we were really happy to see that the brakes were functional, at least enough to stop a tire. Thanks, guys!

  50. #235

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    Fuel pump; electrical system

    Fuel Pump: After a few iterations, we finally got our fuel pump in order, we think. Thanks to Paul's good advice, we found some good fuel resistant connectors with some heat shrink ends. We used those to connect the pump to the pickup, shrunk the heat shrink, and then put some additional heat shrink over the whole connection. All looked good. We got the pump & pickup into the tank but somehow the fuel line between the pickup and the fuel filter doesn't quite fit now given the slightly different angle that the new pickup has... so we'll go get a new section of fuel line to connect them but then that will hopefully be done. Progress!

    Electrical: We continue to plug away on the electrical, hooking up the ignition and a few other items. Still have a lot to do here, though, as we're really just getting started.

    Stupid Question #156: For the ignition, the FF manual says to attach the 2 brown wires to the ACC screw - but only 1 if we're using a 1-wire alternator. For the standard Coyote, the alternator is not a 1-wire alternator, right? When looking at the alternator, it looks like 3 wires come out but i'm not totally sure whether that's enough to ensure i should connect both brown wires to the ACC screw on the ignition. Do you guys suggest i connect both brown wires to the ignition? Thanks, as always!

  51. #236
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteMeindl View Post
    Stupid Question #156: For the ignition, the FF manual says to attach the 2 brown wires to the ACC screw - but only 1 if we're using a 1-wire alternator. For the standard Coyote, the alternator is not a 1-wire alternator, right? When looking at the alternator, it looks like 3 wires come out but i'm not totally sure whether that's enough to ensure i should connect both brown wires to the ACC screw on the ignition. Do you guys suggest i connect both brown wires to the ignition? Thanks, as always!
    No, the Coyote Ford Performance 5.0 Alternator Kit M-8600-M50BALT is most definitely not a 1-wire alternator. It's what's called a 6G alternator. But that doesn't matter in this case. You don't need the brown alternator wire from the Ron Francis harness. You only need the single large red alternator wire to the post on the alternator. Then plug in the alternator connector from the Coyote harness. That's it.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  53. #237

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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    No, the Coyote Ford Performance 5.0 Alternator Kit M-8600-M50BALT is most definitely not a 1-wire alternator. It's what's called a 6G alternator. But that doesn't matter in this case. You don't need the brown alternator wire from the Ron Francis harness. You only need the single large red alternator wire to the post on the alternator. Then plug in the alternator connector from the Coyote harness. That's it.
    Got it - Thanks, Paul!

  54. #238

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    Starting dash and riveting the passenger footbox

    Hi guys! We've been away from the car for a couple weekends of skiing but this weekend we were back at work on the car - feels good! We're working on connecting all the electrical system. We've got a bunch of questions but i'm batching them up and will be unleashing them on you guys in the near future. Beyond connecting wires, we've started on the dash, adhering the dash cover to the aluminum sheet. Here's a shot of it:



    Things worked pretty well getting the front of the dash cover on. Things got a little messy trying to adhere the overhanging part of the dash cover on the back, but I think that's ok since that will be out of sight.

    We also have begun riveting in the passenger footbox. Here ares some pictures of it.




    Hope everyone is doing well!

  55. #239
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    One side note related to some earlier issues with our front hubs - our front tires take a little effort to spin. Not as much as the rear, certainly, but if you give them a good push, they don't spin that much - less than 1 full rotation. Hopefully that is ok but i'm not sure. It that's not ok, a couple thoughts as to what might be going on: 1) it does sound, even when the brakes aren't applied, that there is some rubbing against the brake pads when the wheel spins and 2) i remember when we installed the hubs they seemed to turn more freely before they were fully torqued down.
    I forget who it was, but there was another builder who questioned the "drag" on their front wheel assembly - so I shot this short video. Once things get to know eachother after a few miles the scuffing sound should disappear, and the wheel(s) should free-spin easier.

    .
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
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  57. #240

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    I forget who it was, but there was another builder who questioned the "drag" on their front wheel assembly - so I shot this short video. Once things get to know eachother after a few miles the scuffing sound should disappear, and the wheel(s) should free-spin easier.

    .
    John - thank you so much! You win the nice-guy-of-the-day award for taking that video. I have to tell you that hearing that sound of the pads slightly rubbing was music to my ears as that's just what mine sound like but i was worried that this wasn't supposed to happen. When i spin my front wheel, i get just about 1 rotation, just as you did. So I think we're in good shape on that. Thank you very much for alleviating my concern - that's something I've been worried about for a couple months now! Have a great day!

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