As the title says, do I have too much shaft exposed? I'm running a FE 428, Tremec TK0 600 and an IRS rear so there will be no movement.......curious. Link below......
Blaine
https://ibb.co/gnHeZn
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As the title says, do I have too much shaft exposed? I'm running a FE 428, Tremec TK0 600 and an IRS rear so there will be no movement.......curious. Link below......
Blaine
https://ibb.co/gnHeZn
That's a lot of exposure and a lot of available engagement on the output shaft that's not being used. If you were measuring and having a driveshaft made, you wouldn't leave nearly that much exposed. More like 3/4-inch. I wouldn't use it.
Last edited by edwardb; 04-02-2018 at 05:35 PM.
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I wouldn't run it that way if it were mine. I'd get a new proper length driveshaft and never worry about it again.
Frank
FFR 4440 - V8, Manual Trans, Htr, WSW, IRS. I wouldn't change a thing.
I had a spare yoke.....so I laid it over the top. About 1.5 inches of engagement assuming shaft start at the tail housing flange. My paperwork shows that the driveline is a 31 spline and 10.625 inches.
https://image.ibb.co/gWyWfS/IMG_1036.jpg
To much out- could let shaft move sideways and have vibrations.
Thanks guys. I'll see if FFR will swap it out for one that is perhaps 2 inches longer......story of my life
Blaine
Think they sent you the wrong one. Looks identical to the first drive shaft a friend I am helping out received with his kit. FFR swapped it for a new one that fits correctly.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
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Hey Blaine.
Your slip yoke should have 3/4" exposed. Your picture looks more like 2" or more. I would not run this. FFR have the best customer service bar none. Contact them and their Tech Support guys will guide you to the right set up.
Yeah... too much exposed. Running the IRS the only "real" reason for even having U-joints is to compensate for the inherent flex in the mountings of the driveline... the axle assy isn't really "moving" around that much like a 3 or 4-link solid axle setup.
I'd agree with the 3/4"-ish exposure on the slip yoke... maximum spline engagement with whatever "cushion" (minimal) needed for movement.
John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs
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Call FFR first. I've heard that is the best way to get a hold of them.
JR
Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
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I've been slammed with work and just got to calling FFR today. There answer surprised me....."call a local shop and have it lengthened" as they don't stock a driveshaft that would accommodate a 428 with a TKO600. Man.....no love for the FE crowd!
Blaine in Seattle
Factory Five MK IV #8613 428CJ, IRS, Pin Drive,Tremec TKO 600, Trigo, Avon's,...(Viking Blue/Wimbledon White Stripes/Arctic White Meatballs)
2011 Porsche Panamera Twin Turbo (Metallic Mahogany)
1988 Porsche 930 Factory Slantnose Cabriolet (Guards Red)
1974 Porsche 914 2.0 (Orange)
Supprisingly, it will be a simple process. This is one of those deals where, for someone who does it every day w/ the proper tools, it's really easy to do. For you or me, nearly impossible.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Consider Calling Spohn Performance!
They did my lower control arms and they also do custom driveshafts.
https://www.spohn.net/shop/Custom-Pa...y-Driveshafts/
So...the cost to "re-tube" this locally is over $200 including balancing. Guess i'm mildly chapped that FFR does feel they should help out here. It's a logical build....428FE, Tremec TKO and an IRS rear end.
Blaine in Seattle
Factory Five MK IV #8613 428CJ, IRS, Pin Drive,Tremec TKO 600, Trigo, Avon's,...(Viking Blue/Wimbledon White Stripes/Arctic White Meatballs)
2011 Porsche Panamera Twin Turbo (Metallic Mahogany)
1988 Porsche 930 Factory Slantnose Cabriolet (Guards Red)
1974 Porsche 914 2.0 (Orange)
It might work out better for you to get a new one made up and sell that one.
I agree with Avalanche sell the one you have and call Denny at Denny’s drive shaft. He will make you one for a reasonable cost. Plus he uses the best parts and high speed balances them. The FFR ones are great for a 302 or a low power build but throw in a FE or big stroker that can make 500+ ft/lbs and a upgraded drive shaft and u-joints should be used.