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Thread: Another Novice taking on a Coyote install and wiring …

  1. #1
    Senior Member mlewis's Avatar
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    Another Novice taking on a Coyote install and wiring …

    Hi All,
    Moving to the next big phase of my build, installing a coyote and wiring.

    I will likely be asking many/most well-traveled questions. I’ve tried to sift through the forum in order to try to answer most of my questions.
    I will try to not to frustrate you all in the process (no promises).

    The first couple questions I have encountered are based on the FFR Coyote Install instruction. For the oil pressure gauge sender replacement there is a conflicting photo in the instruction showing a “T” fitting between the block and oil pressure gauge sender to allow for the original coyote sending unit to remain. Is this needed as it appears on the harness diagram from Ford and perhaps is needed by the PCM (I’ve also have seen this set-up on a couple forum pics)?

    Here is the photo:oil sending unit.jpg

    Last question (for now), should the low oil level switch be relocated from the stock pan to the Moroso pan as this also appears in the harness diagram from Ford (and also not present in the FFR instructions)?

    That’s it, for now …

    Much thanks in advance,

    M
    Mk4 #9165, Base Kit with lots of options, Delivery on 08/17/2017, Coyote, TKO600, 2015 IRS, 18" Halibrands, 12.99" Wilwoods

  2. #2
    Senior Member lewma's Avatar
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    I'm at the exact same place as you in my build. We dropped the engine/trans in last weekend and now I'm sifting through the wiring and coyote install instructions too
    Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand
    Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering

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    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Some people will argue the need for the T and the two sending units. Not sure what version of the Coyote is being used. With Gen 1 Coyote, I installed the T for oil pressure as per the instructions with both sending units and both electrical connections. Same with the level sensor. Installed in the Moroso pan and wired. As it turned out, the Speed Hut sending unit was pooched. No oil pressure on the dash gauge on the first start. That was a little tense. They are a good company and mailed out a replacement. BINGO.

  4. #4
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Did not use the T on mine, MFG wire taped back. GenI COYOTE.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  5. #5
    Senior Member mlewis's Avatar
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    Lewis, looks like we’ll cut our teeth ( and scratch our heads) on this together

    Dave, got a new in 2017 (gen 2) engine. I think I’m heading you you direction. Where’d you get the additional plumbing?
    Mk4 #9165, Base Kit with lots of options, Delivery on 08/17/2017, Coyote, TKO600, 2015 IRS, 18" Halibrands, 12.99" Wilwoods

  6. #6
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    No T and no oil level switch for me (2017 coyote)
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  7. #7
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    2016 Gen-2, no tee. I did install and connect the low oil sensor in my new Moroso pan, but I believe based on others' comments that the Ford Racing control pack does not use this sensor.
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
    Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.

  8. #8
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
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    My 2 cents: No T. The FFR instructions are pretty good on most parts. Follow edwardb on power wiring if you are integrating RF and coyote. Or Jazzman, or Wareaglescott. 2bking, Bear - AVhistory, Ducky2009, JDAV, all good to follow. Make certain your connections are all solid, irrespective of what you're connecting (that little problem cost me a week). If you install your 250A fuse over the PDB, make sure you have enough room to get the cover off. (on those last two points - ask me how I know).
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
    Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount

  9. #9
    Senior Member Paul2STL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlewis View Post
    Lewis, looks like we’ll cut our teeth ( and scratch our heads) on this together

    Dave, got a new in 2017 (gen 2) engine. I think I’m heading you you direction. Where’d you get the additional plumbing?
    What Jdav said I am running 2017 Gen 2 Coyote also and no oil level switch or T. Used the adaptors from the kit to screw in the Oil pressure sending unit from the Speed Hut Gauge kit in the hole where the plug was in the side of the block.
    MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, In gelcoat, licensed and driving 8/11/18. Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Paint Jeff Miller Da Bat, Lexus Spectra Blue Mica W/Toyota Silver Sky Metallic strips. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Paul2STL-Build

  10. #10
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Do be careful with that oil pressure sending unit, the posts snap pretty easily if you over tighten (like I did...)
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  11. #11
    Senior Member mlewis's Avatar
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    Thanks All for all the feedback and tips.

    Sounds like no need to "T" in the second oil sender and to drop the low oil sender (already had plugged the pan).

    So just tape up these connector on the Coyote harness (i.e. unterminated) ?


    Al_C, thanks for the suggestions on the other threads. I am already stalking most of these. I will add the others to my repertoire.


    I did a quick dry fit of the oil sender into the brass adapter, is this some kind of a tapered fit as it is a very tight tread (will check again to make sure the tread is damaged) ?

    Based on all the feedback not to over do it, I don't want to over do it

    Thanks again ...
    Mk4 #9165, Base Kit with lots of options, Delivery on 08/17/2017, Coyote, TKO600, 2015 IRS, 18" Halibrands, 12.99" Wilwoods

  12. #12
    Senior Member cnutting's Avatar
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    That fitting is a pipe thread so yes, tapered. Tighten these well. I used Loctite thread sealant on my fluid connections. Some use thread tape but I chose a different path and it has worked well. I also did a test fit on almost every assembly just to make sure I understood how it all went together and that everything seemed right.

    As mentioned before, be careful with the posts. Fragile little guys... ask me how i know...
    FFR #8833 289 FIA 3-link
    1965 289, TKO600 from Forte's Parts Connection
    Body and Paint by Mike's Auto Restoration
    Picked up 3/5/2016, First start 4/22/2017, MA legal 7/11/2018
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...FIA-build-8833
    "Insanity is contagious" - Joseph Heller

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnutting View Post
    I used Loctite thread sealant on my fluid connections.
    x2 on this. I've used teflon tape on hundreds of gas system NPT joints, but stepped up to the ARP thread sealer for this engine.
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
    Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.

  14. #14
    Senior Member mlewis's Avatar
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    Good advice. I've use a Permatex high temp/high tack (not sure of the product name). I had a great success with this product on past resto projects.

    So for the unused position on the Coyote harness for the oil sender and low oil sender, is it OK to trim these off of the hardness to clean in up (seems silly to leave these dangling) ?
    Mk4 #9165, Base Kit with lots of options, Delivery on 08/17/2017, Coyote, TKO600, 2015 IRS, 18" Halibrands, 12.99" Wilwoods

  15. #15
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlewis View Post
    Good advice. I've use a Permatex high temp/high tack (not sure of the product name). I had a great success with this product on past resto projects.

    So for the unused position on the Coyote harness for the oil sender and low oil sender, is it OK to trim these off of the hardness to clean in up (seems silly to leave these dangling) ?
    Don't see why not. Cut off the connector & tape the wires into the harness.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  16. #16
    Senior Member mlewis's Avatar
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    All,

    Sorry to resurface this. I call Ford Perfromance on another question I had. While I had the guy's attention I confirmed with him that the PCM does not need the oil pressure gauge sender signal nor the low oil level single to "make any decision". He was not sure, however, if the PCM would pull a code if these signals were missing.

    For those of you that that did not include the parallel oil pressure sender and/or the low-level oil switch, do you get any codes for these engine checks ?

    Thanks
    Mk4 #9165, Base Kit with lots of options, Delivery on 08/17/2017, Coyote, TKO600, 2015 IRS, 18" Halibrands, 12.99" Wilwoods

  17. #17
    facultyofmusic's Avatar
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    Echoing mlewis's question here. I'm currently wondering about the same thing. Is it really okay to just not connect the oil pressure sensor?
    Mk4 Roadster: Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, T56 Magnum. Build thread here.

  18. #18
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by facultyofmusic View Post
    Echoing mlewis's question here. I'm currently wondering about the same thing. Is it really okay to just not connect the oil pressure sensor?
    Depends on the Coyote version. Very important distinction. For Gen 1 and Gen 2 (the version the OP in this thread asked about) the OE oil pressure sensor could be removed and not used. For the Gen 3, it's required. You'll get DTC's (error codes) if the OE oil pressure sensor is missing. Not sure what that means in practical terms (e.g. whether something operational in the engine is really affected) but regardless you don't want it throwing codes. Note this is as of a couple years ago when I did my Gen 3 Coyote installation in the Coupe. It's possible Ford Performance may have changed something in the PCM calibration since then. But haven't heard that they have. Best is to "T" the connection. Lots of way to do it. Below is mine. Note this is the older style Speedhut sensor. The newer one, if that's what you have, is smaller and maybe could be done differently. These are parts I obtained myself. My understanding is Factory Five also made an adapter available.

    Last edited by edwardb; 04-11-2022 at 05:11 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
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  19. #19
    facultyofmusic's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul, yes I do have the T fittings and adapters provided by FFR. I'll be using that on my gen3.
    Mk4 Roadster: Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, T56 Magnum. Build thread here.

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