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Thread: Front tires rubbing when turning

  1. #1
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    Front tires rubbing when turning

    I am using a 07 wagon donor but replaced the LCAs with aluminum. The control arms were mounted to the inner holes and the tires rubbed when turning hard. I moved the control arms to the outer holes and no rub but then there is not enough tie rod left to secure them. Any suggestions?

  2. #2

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    Ray's Avatar
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    Are there longer tie rods available? That seems like the easiest and quickest solution.

    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
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    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue

  3. #3
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamarack18 View Post
    I am using a 07 wagon donor but replaced the LCAs with aluminum. The control arms were mounted to the inner holes and the tires rubbed when turning hard. I moved the control arms to the outer holes and no rub but then there is not enough tie rod left to secure them. Any suggestions?
    Tamarak18.
    I did the same a couple of years ago. The Baer bump steer kit make the tie rod ends longer. Depending on your front tire width and ride height, you might rub the fenders during body roll.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 07-29-2018 at 10:04 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  4. #4
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    The only way to make certain you will not rub or actually crack the body fender during turning / compression is to raise the fender 1.25 inches. This is on the Gen I 818 front. Perhaps FFR raised it up on the Gen II. Here is a picture:

    Presentation1.jpg

  5. #5
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    The wagon's were slightly narrower than the sedans, assuming the aluminum LCAs were for a sedan and might be the cause for running out of threads on the tie-rods.
    Factory Five 818c #456

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    The Bear bump steer kit make the tie rod ends longer.
    Is this the kit you are referring to?
    https://www.jegs.com/i/Baer-Brake/13...660+4294828659

  7. #7
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DND View Post
    Is this the kit you are referring to?
    https://www.jegs.com/i/Baer-Brake/13...660+4294828659


    Baer bump steer kit from Summit is #BAE-3851001

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post239655
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  8. #8
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    You can also piece together a bump steer kit from speedway for cheaper. I believe there’s a list somewhere here on the forums, I also show all the part numbers in one of my videos.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
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    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  9. #9
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    Adam I got all the part numbers from your video.
    I am finally getting around to doing this now that I've fixed my lower control arm locations and semi-corrected the ride height of the car.
    But from all the different threads on this topic I'm still a little unclear on one thing, do the Pinto tapers fit or not fit? And did you just drill things out and use a straight bolt instead?
    Does even the Baer kit require modification to use?

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    I have just installed the Bauer kit and it requires no modifications.
    Simply install it.

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  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DND View Post
    Adam I got all the part numbers from your video.
    I am finally getting around to doing this now that I've fixed my lower control arm locations and semi-corrected the ride height of the car.
    But from all the different threads on this topic I'm still a little unclear on one thing, do the Pinto tapers fit or not fit? And did you just drill things out and use a straight bolt instead?
    Does even the Baer kit require modification to use?
    The Pinto tapers do not fit. The Baer kit fits, but I found that I needed longer pins to completely correct the bump steer. This may not be the case for all cars. I ended up having the Pinto tapers turned to the correct taper. Drilling and using a straight bolt should also work.

  13. #12
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DND View Post
    Adam I got all the part numbers from your video.
    I am finally getting around to doing this now that I've fixed my lower control arm locations and semi-corrected the ride height of the car.
    But from all the different threads on this topic I'm still a little unclear on one thing, do the Pinto tapers fit or not fit? And did you just drill things out and use a straight bolt instead?
    Does even the Baer kit require modification to use?
    Didn’t drill anything, the taper doesn’t quite fit all the way but it’s not going anywhere.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  14. #13
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canadian818 View Post
    Didn’t drill anything, the taper doesn’t quite fit all the way but it’s not going anywhere.
    Ditto. Got same kit as Adam, actually I sent him the parts that I bought double!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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