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Thread: CV2065 MKIV Build Thread

  1. #41
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Just heard back from FFR regarding my back ordered parts. Hopefully I get most of them shortly, but the manufacturer of the spring collars and hats had some kind of anodizing issue and those parts have been delayed another couple of weeks or more. Wonder if this is something I can get locally? Also, that is the company that makes the steering wheel bosses...which will push back the arrival of those...UGH!! Guess Russ will be back from vacation before I can even think of sending it to him. Brake pads are also on continued back order along with my front spindles and rod ends for the toe arms.

    I realize that each FFR Cobra parts list is long and complicated, but I'm still just a little perplexed around the FFR purchaser/supplier relationship and the overall communication to the end user after the sale. It's been 2.5 weeks since my kit was delivered, and almost 2 months since the kit was 'completed' for pickup. Hate to be a negative Nancy, but FFR needs to get this stuff dialed in.
    Last edited by cv2065; 08-09-2018 at 09:07 AM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  2. #42
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I ordered my kit in February, but specifically delayed delivery until May (when Ma Nature is back on her meds, and the white stuff is gone around here). I'm guessing that due to this elongated "order date to ship date" was to my benefit - my POL list is pretty short, and only had a few "mission critical" pieces on it - and these have all arrived.
    FFR is at the mercy of their 3rd party vendors... as is any other manufacturer that uses out-of-house suppliers for parts.

    You're not going to need the steering wheel for awhile, and the coil-over assemblies aren't really critical until you want to set the chassis down on it's own wheels. I'm also still in the early build stages, and trust me... there's PLENTY of other tasks & sub-assemblies to occupy your time!
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  3. #43
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    I ordered my kit in February, but specifically delayed delivery until May (when Ma Nature is back on her meds, and the white stuff is gone around here). I'm guessing that due to this elongated "order date to ship date" was to my benefit - my POL list is pretty short, and only had a few "mission critical" pieces on it - and these have all arrived.
    FFR is at the mercy of their 3rd party vendors... as is any other manufacturer that uses out-of-house suppliers for parts.

    You're not going to need the steering wheel for awhile, and the coil-over assemblies aren't really critical until you want to set the chassis down on it's own wheels. I'm also still in the early build stages, and trust me... there's PLENTY of other tasks & sub-assemblies to occupy your time!
    Agreed, and I've been keeping myself busy, but my OCD doesn't allow me to draw outside the lines very often... I'm in manufacturing as well, and understand the challenges of suppliers, but control and expectation have to be mastered, especially with such long lead times. Good news is that I have a box coming from FFR as we speak. May not have all my stuff, but they responded to my email, which is good!

    OK..enough of all that stuff! Good news is that all of my panels are ready for pick up today from the powder coaters and they look sweet! I'll post some pics later. Very pleased with the cost to get everything done.

    As many have done, I tried to get my Mev Tech ball joints into my upper control arms last night, and it was a no go from the launch pad. I see where the issue is, as the threads of the ball joint have some kind of bubbling and look to need a bit of scraping...

    IMG_1120.jpg

    So, took a look at the forum and many have tried the Moog K772 ball joints, so ordered them from Amazon last night ($16.99 each) and we'll see how they fit. Last resort is to go the Edwardb route and get the high performance ball joints, but hoping that Moog will do me right!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  4. #44


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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post

    As many have done, I tried to get my Mev Tech ball joints into my upper control arms last night, and it was a no go from the launch pad. I see where the issue is, as the threads of the ball joint have some kind of bubbling and look to need a bit of scraping...
    My experience with multiple installations is that after you wire brush the protective "schmutz" of of them they'll go in without issue.

    Jeff

  5. #45
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    My experience with multiple installations is that after you wire brush the protective "schmutz" of of them they'll go in without issue.

    Jeff
    Thanks Jeff. I'll break out the wire brush on the drill and see where it gets me. Doesn't look like these were painted that great anyway, so might give it a fresh coat. If it doesn't work out, the Moogs will be here tomorrow anyway.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  6. #46
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Great news today. Got all of my panels back, and man do they look good. I had them done in Black Satin to match the frame. Although they are looking more Semi-Gloss than Satin, I'm still pleased. My powder coater laid the powder on thick. Might have to put the drill bit through a couple of holes to get the excess out. He said to bring back the wheels and he'd do them for $250. That Friends and Family discount is really saving me some dough! He did all 57 panels plus brackets in 3 days.

    IMG_1124.jpg

    Was able to get my new rivnuts into the top cover of the foot box. They fit really well and I've entered the no spin zone, as these puppies grab and are easy to install. I don't really like the yellow chromate color, but they'll be covered up anyway. I'll probably change out these SS button head screws for some taller ones. Here's the ones I used: https://www.mcmaster.com/#95105A135

    IMG_1122.jpgIMG_1125.jpg

    Also picked up my hubs from the machine shop. Rob the owner pressed my wheel studs in for $20. I thought it was money well spent to make sure that I didn't run into any issues pulling them through with my impact wrench. He did a great job and had them back in 2 hours.

    IMG_1123.jpg

    Exchanged out my rivet gun today at Harbor Freight. Got home, hooked it up, and the same thing was happening as the last, where the gun was not pulling the shanks off. I think I figured out my problem. It's not the gun at all but my pancake compressor. Volume is plenty, but I think I'm lacking in pressure as it only puts out 2.6 SCFM @90psi. My rivet gun is calling for 3 SCFM. So, tomorrow I'll pick one up at HF and see if that solves my problem. I'm pretty sure that it will.
    Last edited by cv2065; 08-10-2018 at 11:33 PM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

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  8. #47


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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    ...I had them done in Black Satin to match the frame. Although they are looking more Semi-Gloss than Satin, I'm still pleased....
    I have a matte finish on my roadster body--- trust me when I say that you'll be glad those panels have some sheen. Matte will show every spot of oil, grease or finger smudges and unlike a surface with a sheen if you go to wipe it off it just gets bigger and you have to chase it all the way to the edge. Really disappointed that FFR has switched to matte PC for chassis components; enough so that I'm seriously thinking of ordering the chassis for an upcoming Coupe uncoated and having it done locally...don't want to but they may force my hand

    Jeff

  9. #48
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    I have a matte finish on my roadster body--- trust me when I say that you'll be glad those panels have some sheen. Matte will show every spot of oil, grease or finger smudges and unlike a surface with a sheen if you go to wipe it off it just gets bigger and you have to chase it all the way to the edge. Really disappointed that FFR has switched to matte PC for chassis components; enough so that I'm seriously thinking of ordering the chassis for an upcoming Coupe uncoated and having it done locally...don't want to but they may force my hand

    Jeff
    I was also surprised when it didn't come gloss black, not only for durability, but for the touch up factor with something like POR15. I wouldn't say that the finish on my frame is matte though, it is more like a satin finish, as it has somewhat of a sheen, like maybe 20-25% reflectency? Big difference between my panels and the frame though...that is for sure. I was trying to get them to match, but as you said Jeff, the clean up should be much easier!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  10. #49
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I think I figured out my problem. It's not the gun at all but my pancake compressor.
    You've found yourself in perfect position for a great new tool acquisition... "Honey, I need to get a new air compressor. The one I have just isn't big enough to run (my $30) the air tools I'll need for the Roadster build... OK?"

    Go Large!
    compressor000.jpg wink4.gif
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  11. #50
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    You've found yourself in perfect position for a great new tool acquisition... "Honey, I need to get a new air compressor. The one I have just isn't big enough to run (my $30) the air tools I'll need for the Roadster build... OK?"

    Go Large!
    compressor000.jpg wink4.gif
    LOL...I’m with ya John! The real tragedy is that I just sold my big one about a year ago thinking that I would downsize the garage a bit. Of course, the Cobra was not in the picture at that time. Learned my lesson that projects of some kind will always play a part as long as I have a garage to do them in....So big air compressor purchase...Round 2!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  12. #51


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    Or...





    Cheers,
    Jeff

  13. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Exchanged out my rivet gun today at Harbor Freight. Got home, hooked it up, and the same thing was happening as the last, where the gun was not pulling the shanks off. I think I figured out my problem. It's not the gun at all but my pancake compressor. Volume is plenty, but I think I'm lacking in pressure as it only puts out 2.6 SCFM @90psi. My rivet gun is calling for 3 SCFM. So, tomorrow I'll pick one up at HF and see if that solves my problem. I'm pretty sure that it will.
    I use my Campbell Hausfeld air rivet gun in the basement with the little Porter-Cable 6-gallon pancake compressor I have there. Works fine. Runs more than the much bigger Quincy I have in the garage shop. But still pulls rivets fine. Far be it from me standing between someone and new tools. But I don't think you need a bigger compressor for this reason alone. I still think your riveter may need to be adjusted. I looked on H-F's website and theirs adjust exactly like mine does. Look in the instructions under the section near the end titled Jaw Cleaning and Replacement. With the whole outer cylinder nose piece off, there's a lock nut and the jaws that grip the rivet. Loosen the nut and adjust. They show using the wrench as a measuring device. If their adjustment doesn't make it better, you can adjust it a little more on your own. Mine was also slipping sometimes, and a slight adjustment in this area made it work perfectly every time.
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-12-2018 at 03:34 PM. Reason: Typos
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  14. #53
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Or...





    Cheers,
    Jeff
    LOL...Got one of those and the handshake to prove it....
    Last edited by cv2065; 08-12-2018 at 03:35 PM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  15. #54
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I use my Campbell Hausfeld air rivet gun in the basement with the little Porter-Cable 6-gallon pancake compressor I have there. Works fine. Runs more than the much bigger Quincy I have in the garage shop. But still pulls rivets fine. Far be it from me standing between someone and new tools. But I don't think you need a bigger compressor for this reason alone. I still think your riveter just need to be adjusted. I looked on H-F's website and theirs adjust exactly like mine does. Look in the instructions under the section near the end titled Jaw Cleaning and Replacement. With the whole outer cylinder nose piece off, there's a lock nut and the jaws that grip the rivet. Loosen the nut and adjust. They show using the wrench as a measuring device. If their adjustment does make it better, you can adjust it a little more on your own. Mine was also slipping sometimes, and a slight adjustment in this area made it work perfect every time.
    Soooo, I took mine apart to adjust and not sure what happened there but when the jaws went back in, they would no longer accept the entire rivet shank. Would only go in about 2/3rds of the way. I'm sure that I probalby jacked something up, but not sure how, as its a pretty simple assembly. Unfortunately, the wrench they now include in the box is not the same that's in the adjustment picture, so it doesn't have the any markers for adjustment purposes. I'll take a look at it again, but I'm thinking you are correct, its just a matter of getting it right.

    I did take a look at the CH rivet gun that you have Paul and noticed that it says it only needs 1.1 SCFM where mine needs 3 SCFM @90psi. Even if those numbers for the CH were at 40psi, double it and its still under the capacity of my pancake compressor. Harbor Freight has a blue and black rivet gun, with the black being the more expensive model, just like the CH that you have. Not sure what the differences are there....

    That being said, I do like having a larger air compressor again....
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  16. #55
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Today was all about painting parts. I'm waiting on some key suspension parts so I can complete the front and back so thought I'd paint some of those.

    First up was the calipers. My wheels will be powder coated a black chrome color, so I thought red calipers would not only contrast nicely, but somewhat match the Ruby Red color of the car. I used the POR15 caliper paint and as I've used their products before, very impressed. I used a chip brush to apply and it levels out very nicely. I had one drip that I missed, but other than that, they are coming along great so far.

    IMG_1126.jpgIMG_1127.jpgIMG_1135.jpg

    Next up was the knuckles. I was going to use the Duplicolor clear like Edwardb, BUT for some reason my knuckles looked a little dirty and banged up in certain places. Some of that was me, the dirty part, but I bought them new through Summit and don't think they were used or anything. Instead of the clear, I used the Duplicolor Silver Caliper paint and they came out great. Look brand new....Taping them off was a bit of a chore, but worth the time.

    IMG_1131.jpg

    Next up was the control arm adjustment cylinders. Mine came from FFR with a few scratches in the black powdercoat. I was just going to run with those until one of them froze up on the threads. It moves easily now, so not sure if someone went crazy with some thread locker or what, but used my adjustable wrench to 'unfreeze' it and scratched the crapola out of it. So, I decided to paint the same POR15 caliper red. Ironically enough, I used a self etching primer from Rustoleum and it only came in a green color. Couple of coats of red on top of that, and it came out similar to a Ruby Red, same as the body paint. They came out great and almost look 'dipped' in color. The POR15 product is outstanding.

    IMG_1134.jpg

    I'm sure that my son is looking for his shark towel. I was by myself today and had run of the kitchen. Things got a little busy and this is what the kitchen island looked like before the wife got home. PLENTY of time to clean up and move to the garage, but man its hot out there, even with my shop fan.

    IMG_1129.jpg

    I did paint the lower caliper pieces with the Duplicolor Caliper paint in Black. Those seem to have come out a little 'powdery'. Maybe they just need more time to cure but hopefully I'm not seeing a future stripping of those parts due to poor adhesion.

    Edit: Looks like the paint didn't really take to these pieces. Not sure if its the paint or the glossy finish to the metal, but I stripped these and we are back to the silver. Will still look great.

    Edit 2: Took a look at John's calipers (aka Fixit) and said forget the silver. I hand sanded the lower caliper pieces with 120 grit sandpaper. Seems to rough up enough to produce a fine powder, so I'm confident that the caliper paint will bite. So we are back to RED!

    IMG_1174.jpg

    Tomorrow I'll be tackling the pedal box!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by cv2065; 08-26-2018 at 11:09 PM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  17. #56
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Almost forgot to mention that I received my MOOG K772 ball joint replacements. Happy to report that after a couple of drops of Loctite, they dropped right in and screwed down with little effort. I will say that they didn't actually 'drop in'. At first, you put them in and looks almost like they don't fit. I had to fiddle around with each one a little, twisting lightly back and forth until the ball joint settled into the control arm up to the threads. Once in position, they screwed down easily. Not sure what is lining up there, but takes a little patience.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  18. #57
    Senior Member HiggyMK4#????'s Avatar
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    I see your hydrating properly! Bottle of water AND a bottle of Michelob Ultra! Good job.
    Higgy
    'Collecting knowledge and parts for a future build'

  19. #58
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiggyMK4#???? View Post
    I see your hydrating properly! Bottle of water AND a bottle of Michelob Ultra! Good job.
    Higgy
    You got that right Higgy! Painting goes a bit sideways after a few beers if I don’t introduce some hydration!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  20. #59
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    A tidbit of advise on the adjuster sleeves for the control arms... now that you've got them all purdy - but not on the car yet.

    I've got the same style arms on my '65 El Camino, and neglected to lube the crap out of the internal threads of the sleeves on installation. Once I got it back on it's wheels and weight on the suspension, it was VERY difficult to turn the adjuster sleeves... Wound up pulling stuff off and lubing them up.

    Use some chassis grease or anti-seize on the internal threads. Slather 'em up good, then thread the arms back in.
    005.jpg

    Word of warning with anti-seize.... antiseize.png
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  21. #60
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reminder there John. I remember you mentioning this in your build thread and forgot to do it. First thing I’ll do tonight as I see exactly what you are saying, as one of mine was seized up a bit right out of the box
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  22. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Agreed, and I've been keeping myself busy, but my OCD doesn't allow me to draw outside the lines very often... I'm in manufacturing as well, and understand the challenges of suppliers, but control and expectation have to be mastered, especially with such long lead times. Good news is that I have a box coming from FFR as we speak. May not have all my stuff, but they responded to my email, which is good!

    OK..enough of all that stuff! Good news is that all of my panels are ready for pick up today from the powder coaters and they look sweet! I'll post some pics later. Very pleased with the cost to get everything done.

    As many have done, I tried to get my Mev Tech ball joints into my upper control arms last night, and it was a no go from the launch pad. I see where the issue is, as the threads of the ball joint have some kind of bubbling and look to need a bit of scraping...

    IMG_1120.jpg

    So, took a look at the forum and many have tried the Moog K772 ball joints, so ordered them from Amazon last night ($16.99 each) and we'll see how they fit. Last resort is to go the Edwardb route and get the high performance ball joints, but hoping that Moog will do me right!

    CV - did you powder coat ALL of the panels? Will you add any other coatings? Thx

  23. #62
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wineguy View Post
    CV - did you powder coat ALL of the panels? Will you add any other coatings? Thx
    Yep. I powder coated everything. I still have some odds and ends to bring, but I'll just do that when I have my wheels, gas tank cap and windshield frame done in a couple of months.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  24. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Yep. I powder coated everything. I still have some odds and ends to bring, but I'll just do that when I have my wheels, gas tank cap and windshield frame done in a couple of months.
    Thats awesome! Wish I had a powder coating hookup! Are you also adding Thermo-Tec/Lizard Skin near cockpit?

  25. #64
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Ok I’m a little behind here but I just got my b/o front control arms on Friday. They are flat/satin black. I thought hmmmm
    I haven’t really paid attention much to the chassis yet, but after reading this my chassis is flat/satin too. Also the powder coated 3 link brackets I just inventoried too. Not a real happy camper at this point because my moser rear end that I got 2 weeks before the kit is a glow in the dark GLOSS black!! NOT a very good match
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

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  26. #65
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wineguy View Post
    Thats awesome! Wish I had a powder coating hookup! Are you also adding Thermo-Tec/Lizard Skin near cockpit?
    Yes, I'll be going with the Thermo Tec all around.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  27. #66
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post
    Ok I’m a little behind here but I just got my b/o front control arms on Friday. They are flat/satin black. I thought hmmmm
    I haven’t really paid attention much to the chassis yet, but after reading this my chassis is flat/satin too. Also the powder coated 3 link brackets I just inventoried too. Not a real happy camper at this point because my moser rear end that I got 2 weeks before the kit is a glow in the dark GLOSS black!! NOT a very good match
    No doubt. I was surprised to see the Satin black as well. Seemed like it was a no brainer on the high gloss, as imperfections could easily be hidden by POR15. My control arms are satin black as well, but I do prefer that to the bare metal copper color that I've seen others get in the past.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  28. #67
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Haven't posted on my build thread lately, but have gotten quite a bit done. I was also waiting for my additional parts to show. FFR finally send me my spindles, toe arm ends and a couple of other things this week, but NO SPRING HATS!! Actually, they just sent them out this past Friday, so should have them by Tuesday. The only thing I'm missing is my rear brake pads...No big deal.

    Started on my pedal box. Pedal box creation went without a hitch, but I did temporarily get confused around the cable vs. hydraulic setup, as I built the cable assembly, installed it and then sanded the seam off of the pedal so it could fit into the assembly, only to figure out that I needed to have a hydraulic MC there instead, so pulled it all apart and reassembled properly. Rookie mistake.

    IMG_1154.jpg

    Was able to get my upper control arms on the front as well. I had to put in 2 shims on the passenger side on left and zero shims on the right. Went to the driver's side and it took shims in both. Also, the ears were not wide enough and to open them up a bit. Started off with a dead blow hammer and although I was re-enacted the monkey scene from 2001: A Space Odyssey in the garage, I just ended up using a threaded bar and nuts/washers. That is certainly the most effective way to widen these up evenly on both sides. I also had to flip my center section over just like everyone else and "slathered" the adjuster with anti seize, just as John (aka Fixit) suggested.

    I think I mentioned this before, but went with the Moog ball joints, and they went in without a problem. Very pleased with their product.

    IMG_1167.jpg
    Last edited by cv2065; 08-24-2018 at 09:05 PM.
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  29. #68
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Moved back to the pedal box and driver's side footbox. I had asked the forum the best way to apply the Thermo-Tec, before or after the foot box was completed. Just about everyone said afterwards so you are able to seal the panels together easily, cover up the riveted sections and save some time cutting around the areas that have rivets, as they need to be metal to metal for an effective fit. I did the front wall of the footbox and will most likely do the floor pan as well before I rivet them in. These areas are the hardest to get to or get under due to the framing. And by the way, as others have said, this stuff is STICKY. When it attaches to the aluminum, you better get ready for a wrestling match to get it back off. Almost to the point of warping a piece of sheet metal, so be careful.

    I'm also going to reinforce the Thermo Tec insulation on the foot box pan, tunnel area and sides which come close to the headers with Thermo Tec's heat barrier. Not sure how it will work, but supposedly rated to 2K degrees and is very thin compared to the Thermo Tec Cool It. Looks like this:

    IMG_1169.jpg

    As I installed my pedal box, looks like the 2 holes in the rear bracket were not aligning with the 3/4" bar, so had to drill it off center a bit. I could get them centered if I moved the pedal box bracket about 1/8" off the front mount with a washer, but as the forum suggested, keep it flush and just drill the holes off center. They were about 1/8" off. Drilled them and everything fit fine. Others said they had the same thing with current frames, so maybe something that was changed by FFR to fix the pedal interference.

    IMG_1160.jpgIMG_1161.jpgIMG_1162.jpg

    Now that my toe rod ends are here, time for some rear end action! Will be nice to finally get the front and rear suspension completed!
    Last edited by cv2065; 08-26-2018 at 10:44 PM.
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  30. #69
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Ok, so some good stuff today.

    I started my rear suspension (finally). Once the tow arms were in, it was time for the axles. One has to remember to ensure that you have the right IRS axle for the right side. The longer spindled side goes to the driver side and shorter to the passenger. Just make sure you measure as I would hate to have to pull one out after the c clip engages. When I put the first one in, it took some pressure to get the clip on the end of the axle to compress and feed into the grooves inside the pumpkin. It went in all the way the first push, but I didn't realize it as there was still a very small gap at the end of the hub. I installed the passenger side and that one needed a small bump from my plastic hammer but felt it bottom out, and it had the same small gap, which I then realized that they were in and the forum confirmed. Here's a couple of a fully installed axle in case anyone needs to see the gapping:

    IMG_1170.jpgIMG_1171.jpg

    I was able to get my rear hubs connected to my spindles. I did paint the hub bases with a Rustoleum Oil Based Gloss Black. Went on nicely and looks great. My spindle bolts came with thread locker already on them, but I added a drop or two of Red Loctite for good measure. Was easier than I thought to get the required 98 ft-lbs of torque on those bolts despite the odd shaped spindle. Wife was VERY happy to have these removed from the kitchen island.

    IMG_1173.jpgIMG_1177.jpg

    Moved to the garage and attached the spindles. I have to be honest, I was a little worried about the holes that had to be enlarged in the spindle. They cut easily but wasn't sure if maybe getting off center a bit was going to come back to haunt me. Luckily, I didn't have any issues. I will say that every attachment I've had on the IRS system has needed to be enlarged with the threaded bar and nut method. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning so that anyone reading will have it on hand. Nothing more aggravating than getting into the project and have to pick up and run out to get something that you are missing. I included a picture in case someone hasn't done that before. Much better than hitting with a hammer.

    Attachment 92025Attachment 92026Attachment 92027Attachment 92028Attachment 92029Attachment 92030Attachment 92031

    Thanks to Edwardb's help (multiple times today - Much appreciated Paul!), I adjusted the assembly a little after I took the above pics. The UCA was adjusted to where I had roughly 1/2" of threads showing on both sides of the lock nuts. I did about the same with the toe arm for good measure. Seemed to give me a good enough starting point when alignment comes up. I did measure the toe arm threads, and one has about 2" worth of threads, so maybe about 1.5" to work with...In case anyone was wondering and forgot to measure.

    I do need to address that sensor hole in the spindles. I saw how a few addressed with tapped screw and aluminum piece, but now that I have it all assembled, may just get a piece and JB weld it on there? Not sure yet.

    Tomorrow I think I'll finish up the pedal box and continue to measure out Thermo Tec for the foot boxes. Tuesday is a big day as I'll finally get all of my spring parts and can finish up the front suspension. I'll be taking off Thurs/Fri off this week for a big 5 day weekend counting Labor Day, so car time is coming!!
    Last edited by cv2065; 08-26-2018 at 11:30 PM.
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  31. #70
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Down-n-dirty fix for the sensor holes... I just filled them with clear silicone.

    012.jpg

    (Something to consider though... the steel CV housings near the differential & hubs are raw, and will rust if you look at them wrong. Shoot some rattle-can clear on them)
    RearAxle04.png (These are the OEM axles from my 1000 mile take-out IRS.)j

    Oh, BTW... getting the axles out of the Diff isn't too bad. A "persuader" (pry bar) between the diff & CV housing and a little leverage and they'll pop right out.
    Last edited by Fixit; 08-28-2018 at 06:51 PM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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  32. #71
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post

    (Something to consider though... the steel CV housings near the differential & hubs are raw, and will rust if you look at them wrong. Shoot some rattle-can clear on them)
    RearAxle04.png (These are the OEM axles from my 1000 mile take-out IRS.)
    I'm glad you said this. Because as I just posted today, I did not do anything because I thought they would not rust. Mine have been in their box for the past 3 years and they looked really good. I will clean them up with some lacquer thinner and puts some of my clear on them. Thanks for the note.

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  33. #72
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Down-n-dirty fix for the sensor holes... I just filled them with clear silicone.

    012.jpg

    (Something to consider though... the steel CV housings near the differential & hubs are raw, and will rust if you look at them wrong. Shoot some rattle-can clear on them)
    RearAxle04.png (These are the OEM axles from my 1000 mile take-out IRS.)j

    Oh, BTW... getting the axles out of the Diff isn't too bad. A "persuader" (pry bar) between the diff & CV housing and a little leverage and they'll pop right out.
    Thanks for both of those John! Another couple of things on my to do list for Thursday!
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  34. #73
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Finished up the pedal box MC's yesterday and installed the hydrualic MC from the Forte kit. I cut off 5/8" off of each adjustment rod and they fit perfectly. Dremel tools are invaluable for stuff like this! I was trying to adjust the balance bar, but then I read on a couple of other threads that you really need to wait until there is fluid and its operational for final adjustments, so I centered the balance bar and left it at that for now. My Wilwood MC hoses were both red and black. Kind of like all red, but not a big issue.

    IMG_1227.jpg

    As I mentioned, I finally got all of my suspension parts, so was able to finish up the IRS. As I went through my bag, I was actually missing a couple of lock nuts for the LCA. My fault as I didn't inventory these, but nothing a quick trip to ACE hardware couldn't solve. They are the only place I know of that have large sized Grade 8 flanged nuts. I assembled and installed the rear shocks and was able to tighten up everything else. Interesting that the rear shocks are faced down and the fronts are faced up. I think these red Konis can be done either way, but the manual specifically showed them different orientation. I verified on the forum as well.

    I've had to widen every suspension coupling with a threaded rod and nuts, and the shocks were no different. Again, not a big deal and once tightened up, they look great. After reading Papa's thread a few hundred times, I've got the same OCD and had to make sure the FFR writing on the springs was right side up front to back. The spacers that are included for the springs are very roughly cut and you'll need to make sure to have a small file to get them nice and smooth. One might also want to make sure that you check the snap rings for the shocks once they are in place. They "look" like they are all the way seated, but I was able to get a small snap out of each one just pressing the ends. You can also see on the ends if the snap ring is seated right.

    IMG_1232.jpgIMG_1227.jpgIMG_1208.jpgIMG_1207.jpg

    John (aka Fixit) reminded me that the axles on the IRS will rust in a heartbeat once out on the street, so taped them off and used some POR15 on them to match the front of the IRS. Came out great and should be well protected.

    IMG_1233.jpg

    Oddly enough, I had two of the larger jam nuts in a bag that have no home? These are the same ones that go on the toe arm, but I already have one on the front and rear for both sides. Not sure where else these would go?
    Last edited by cv2065; 09-02-2018 at 10:12 PM.
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  35. #74
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    On to the front suspension. I've almost got this done, but had to get a set of crows feet to tighten the top ball joint castle nut, as you cannot get a torque wrench under it, and that slowed me down a couple of hours today. Everything here lined up, but I did notice that the locking nut on the right side of the UCA towards the top (driver's side) was a lot closer to the F panel than the other side and made contact when it was all the way loose on the thread. It sits at an angle so once tightened, it was all good with plenty of clearance, but noted. I also aligned the UCA according to the instruction manual. Based on the measurements given for each side, I pretty much took all of my adjustment out of one side to get to those numbers. I'll let the pros handle the alignment later down the road.

    One note on the front steering knuckles. The manual lays this out but thought I'd mention it as I was skimming through and could have missed it. Each knuckle is deemed DSS (Driver side) and PSS (Passenger Side). The directions were written for the Hot Rod. On the Roadster, these are switched, as the DSS knuckle goes on the passenger side and PSS knuckle to the drivers side.

    IMG_1228.jpgIMG_1229.jpgIMG_1230.jpgIMG_1231.jpg

    Tomorrow I'll finish up by attaching the hubs, rotors and brakes. Speaking of rotors, I also painted these today with Duplicolor Caliper Paint, and they turned out almost looking powder coated. Very pleased with that product. I've seen a few videos that have painted the part of the rotor that will come into contact with the brake pad, but I skipped this as I didn't want to possibly gum up the pad with paint.

    IMG_1225.jpgIMG_1226.jpg
    Last edited by cv2065; 09-02-2018 at 08:50 AM.
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  36. #75
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    You must have gotten a Monday or a Friday frame... I think I had to "tweak" only two mounting location to get the arms in on the whole car.

    And you are correct - the steer arms mount on the wrong side of the car as to what they're stamped. The roadster is "front steer" - the hot rod "rear steer" - the large side of the tapered tie-rod hole should be down.

    My driver's rear UCA cross-shaft nut (also) basically touches the F panel.?? Maybe it's the cost of FFR reworking the footbox framing for clutch pedal clearance - they moved that 3/4" tube outboard a bit?

    The build is coming along! Looking good!

    (your picture links on the last post aren't working...)
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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  37. #76
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    You must have gotten a Monday or a Friday frame... I think I had to "tweak" only two mounting location to get the arms in on the whole car.

    And you are correct - the steer arms mount on the wrong side of the car as to what they're stamped. The roadster is "front steer" - the hot rod "rear steer" - the large side of the tapered tie-rod hole should be down.

    My driver's rear UCA cross-shaft nut (also) basically touches the F panel.?? Maybe it's the cost of FFR reworking the footbox framing for clutch pedal clearance - they moved that 3/4" tube outboard a bit?

    The build is coming along! Looking good!

    (your picture links on the last post aren't working...)
    Thanks John! With you and I being one of the firsts with the new frame, interesting that the tolerances are so similar that we both see these small same changes with the design. And thanks for your thread as well. I've went to it a few times to keep myself on track! Enjoy the holiday!
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  38. #77
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Back at it today to finish up a few things. I was able to get the front end completely done short of putting on the brakes. I must have put the caliper paint on a little heavy, as it wasn't completely dry as of yet, so will give it another day before putting them on and then the brakes. I did however assemble the front brakes with pads, so they are ready to go. I was able to score a loaner torque wrench and 36mm socket to get my 250 ft-lbs on the front hub nuts. I also used the crows foot for the first time. Pretty nifty and got me to the proper torque and cotter pin position on the upper ball joint. I know that many have said that I'm over thinking it, and I'm sure that i am, but my OCD kicks in if I'm not sure where I'm at.

    IMG_1235.jpgIMG_1236.jpgIMG_1240.jpg

    Also installed my firewall tonight. I was able to pry my 13 year old from his room and World of Warcraft game just long enough to have him help hold it while I clecko'd it into position. I took John's advice and drilled my holes into the firewall before installing.... much easier of course.

    Instructions state that you measure over 14.75"...then up 1.5" and then split 5" from there horizontally, 2.5" on each side. This of course is from the 2" tubing, which I factored in. Problem was that the two holes I drilled were 5" apart, and one ended up behind the dashboard support. I should have put the firewall up to the frame to look for obstructions beforehand, so my bad, but the good news is that I think there is still enough room to feed the starter and alternator wires through and seal up with a grommet. Worst case scenario is that I drill a 3rd hole, which I think is called for if you have fuel injection anyway. So either way, not a big deal, but glad to have the firewall up. Feels like progress!

    IMG_1241.jpgIMG_1243.jpgIMG_1247.jpg

    Also started on my hydraulic reservoir bracket. I asked edwardb where he scored his and he gave me the McMaster link to a 12" 2x2 90 degree piece of steel angle. You can find it here:

    https://www.mcmaster.com/#9017k164/=1e7trhj

    Cut this down to 9", drilled out all of the holes after matching it up with the reservoir bracket and now am painting it with POR15. Still need to find some flat head bolts that lay flush with the tubing. Ace doesn't have any of the correct size and didn't see any on McMaster, so if anyone has a tip as to what they used, just let me know.

    IMG_1246.jpg

    Tomorrow we are headed off to do some river tubing with the family, so the morning is spoken for, but when I get back, I will start on the brakes and brake lines, then steering column. I've already sent my steering boss to Russ Thompson for the turn signal mod...should get that back within a week or two hopefully!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by cv2065; 09-02-2018 at 10:13 PM.
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  39. #78
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Haven't updated in a week and a half or so, but lots going on.

    First, I finished up the front brakes and brake lines. My rear pads are still on back order. Luckily its the last thing I have left to get. Front brake calipers and pads went on without a hitch. Hooked up the flex lines and wasn't real impressed with the quality of the banjo bolts and washers, as one bolt didn't take much to distort the head if your socket wasn't 100% engaged. China quality? I'm looking for a replacement now. One thing to remember is that the banjo bolts are not the same thread size from front to back, so don't get over zealous, like I tend to get, and force something or you'll strip the threads.



    I also had an issue with my FFR supplied tie rod ends. They were too short as I was only able to engage about 3/4" after everything was centered. No one else seemed to have an issue, so perhaps it was just me...wouldn't be surprising. Anyhow, Edwardb gave me the Moog replacement (es2150rl) and I picked up 2 at my local auto parts store. I think 2 of them set me back $38. All I have to say is WOW, what a difference. The quality of the part is very noticeably better on the Moog, and it has an integrated grease boot. Now instead of having 3/4" engagement on the rod, I have a full 1.5 to 2 inches on the tie rod. Also, the Moog's come with a castle nut and cotter pin, versus the Nylock nut. Check out the differences here:




    On to the power steering rack and steering shaft. I thought this part of the build would be a layup...Wrong. First off, my mounting holes for my steering rack were about 1/8" off. I had to elongate the driver's side hole, sand and repaint....no big deal. After that, thanks to Papa Dave's write up, I was able to get my rack in and bolted up without too much fuss.




    Front brake lines were next. Honestly, this was not my favorite part of the thread. I noticed that the FFR supplied lines were either too long (60") or too short, so I went to my local auto parts and they had 51" lengths of NiCopp tubing, which worked perfectly for the front end. Very easy to bend and it doesn't rust. Both ends of the tubing are flared, so don't have to mess with that either. I went through 3 pieces (or $18) worth of tubing before I got the hang of it.

    Although I'm no Edwardb, it came out pretty good I think. I don't yet have my vinyl clips holding the tubing just yet. Speaking of Edwardb, I used his routing and cut a little notch out on the right side of the front footbox panel at the top so that the Nicopp tubing could run straight through. I also made a little pig tail in the main supply line, as I've read that gives the line a little 'cushion' to ward off vibration. It also helped soak up the additional few inches that I didn't need.


    Last edited by cv2065; 09-14-2018 at 09:01 PM.
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  40. #79
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Here's a few more front brake line pics:





    Steering shaft was next. Everything lined up great through the DS footbox panel and then I went to install the upper shaft into the lower shaft with the domed washers. Upper shaft fitment was very tight, so much so that could not get the shaft back out. Inquired on the forum and was reminded that this is a safety function and needs to be rectified. I also read in a couple other forums over the years that some had the exact same issue with it being too tight, others too loose, so I sent FFR an email to assist. FFR Customer Service is nothing short of spectacular. After a couple of questions, Dave C. sent me out a replacement and this one fits perfectly! I'll be sending the defective one back. If you are looking for a Cobra kit, this is why you go with FFR!

    Another issue that I had that I wasn't aware, was that my frame is of the new style (Satin Finish) and that the pillow block was now offset in a different spot in the cockpit. Without some washers for spacers under the pillow block mounts, the upper driveshaft cannot rotate properly and hits the dash tube.



    I rectified this by going with Russ Thompsons Turn Signal Mod, which Russ has all of this worked out. Can't say enough about this mod...top quality!! And if you really want to get some very intuitive pictures and instructions on installation, check out Fixit's thread. John did such a great job I had this installed in 30 minutes. Thanks John!! As John says, the most important thing is alignment and ensuring that the RT assembly moves up and down the shaft. You definitely have to keep the pillow block bolts loose around the shaft until you get it aligned. Tighten down and ensure that the assembly still moves freely up and down the steering shaft. If not, loosen up and try again.




    My next endeavor is to get the rest of the heat insulation cut for each panel of the passenger footbox and get those panels riveted in. I will also be doing the drivers side inside panel so that I can then run my rear brake lines. Once brake lines are run, I'll be moving to the gas tank and then electrical harness.
    Last edited by cv2065; 09-14-2018 at 08:40 PM.
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  41. Thanks Fixit thanked for this post
  42. #80
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Look what came today! Well, it was a short lived fantasy. I got a great deal on this 'Like New' Ford Performance 427 ($6700) from Amazon Warehouse. Said that it was pristine and never touched. Well, that wasn't exactly true. The engine has never been fired...that part I know, but for some reason, everything is beginning to rust, almost like this sat out in the rain somewhere. Even the ARP bolts are rusting on the bottom side of each bolt, like water dripped off of it for an extended amount of time. Lifters don't come out of their housings and it doesn't look like there is any assembly lube, or any kind of lube for that matter, anywhere in the engine. I also saw a little rust on one of the cam lobes.

    I thought about pulling the pan and looking at the caps and rods, but what's the point? I could take it to my local machine shop and have it cleaned up, but not sure what else would have to be done. What a shame for a new engine.

    Anyway, good news is that Amazon will be picking it up next week and refunding all of my hard earned cash. I will say that these Ford Racing engines are very nice. Maybe next time...

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