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Thread: CV2065 MKIV Build Thread

  1. #81
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    ... almost like this sat out in the rain somewhere. Even the ARP bolts are rusting on the bottom side of each bolt, like water dripped off of it for an extended amount of time. Lifters don't come out of their housings and it doesn't look like there is any assembly lube, or any kind of lube for that matter, anywhere in the engine. I also saw a little rust on one of the cam lobes.
    "Run Forrest... RUN!!"
    I'm glad you're getting your money back on that engine. Frozen lifters... no moly on the camshaft... ??
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  2. #82
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    "Run Forrest... RUN!!"
    I'm glad you're getting your money back on that engine. Frozen lifters... no moly on the camshaft... ??
    I know right? Not sure what happened to this thing but man, what a waste. I wouldn’t even attempt to turn it over. Still Puzzling though. Never seen those ARP moly bolts rust. This engine was just made in 12/2017. I think the guy that first bought it also took the rocker arms as well, as there were none when I pulled the valve covers.
    Last edited by cv2065; 09-14-2018 at 10:13 PM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  3. #83
    Senior Member HiggyMK4#????'s Avatar
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    Amazon is pretty good about returning your money but there are a lot of shady third party sellers on there.
    Higgy
    'Collecting knowledge and parts for a future build'

  4. #84
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiggyMK4#???? View Post
    Amazon is pretty good about returning your money but there are a lot of shady third party sellers on there.
    Higgy
    No doubt...This one came from the Amazon Warehouse deals.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  5. #85
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Yeah, something weird going on here... no rockers? And those are not the valve covers that Ford supplies with a 427 crate. I guess they could change that, tho. And my 427 HAD been run in and had a hot oil pressure tag with it, but it was very clean and appeared to be a professionally built engine.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  6. #86
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Hooked up the flex lines and wasn't real impressed with the quality of the banjo bolts and washers, as one bolt didn't take much to distort the head if your socket wasn't 100% engaged. China quality? I'm looking for a replacement now. One thing to remember is that the banjo bolts are not the same thread size from front to back, so don't get over zealous, like I tend to get, and force something or you'll strip the threads.
    Are you still looking for the banjo bolts? I have the Wilwood brakes on my 20th anniversary and do not use Banjo fittings. I have the bolts if you still need. PM me please if I can send them out to you.
    Carl

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
    Build Thread Click Here

  7. #87
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Made some progress today. Can't emphasize how humid it is here in Florida. I have to change clothes a few times if I plan to stay out in the garage any extended period of time. Price we pay to get this bad boy done!!

    Started out with getting the Thermo Cool it cut for the bulk of the foot box panels and firewall. I saw a picture from Jazzman's thread where he rolled out the entire roll of Thermo Cool and laid the parts on top to maximize placement. I did that and looked like the following:



    Embarrassingly enough, I laid out all of the panels upside down, so everything was backwards once I cut it all out. Thought I was going to choke the dog at that point, but remained calm and sat down and ordered another roll from Amazon.

    As I was looking over my front brake routing, I wasn't happy with the main line going from the MC, so I gave it another try. This time I put the looped area inside the box and I think it looks much nicer. Was able to use a full stick of 60" NiCopp for the job. Much easier to bend than the FFR provided steel ones. The lines now have plenty of slack in them so there is no stress on the fittings...very easy to screw and unscrew by hand. I don't have have the padded clips or the gravel guard installed yet. Speaking of which, these brake lines are 3/16 in diameter. I can't get the 3/16" gravel guard over the pre-flared ends, so I ordered the next size up which is 1/4". We'll see how they fit. I will say that I'm liking tube bending more than before as I've got some practice.

    One thing to note was the minor scratches or scathing I was getting on the tube from my tube bending pliers. Hard to avoid on the tight J bends, so I took a piece of shrink wrap and placed over the tube where I was hooking on with the pliers. Worked great and you can see one in my picture before I took it off.




    Also made it around to getting my passenger foot box installed. Lots of fun here. I used black silicone caulking which is much better to clean up than the clear. Box panels installed easily and also made a patch piece for the hole on the bottom right side of the box. There is also a 3.5" sliver of space at the top of the inside panel where it meets the cockpit center piece. I cut a strip for that as well. Kept thinking about Jazzman (Kevin) stating that he's getting some heat inside the cockpit after the first few weeks of driving around, so I'm hunting down any gaps and sealing them up! These just need to be painted and caulked into position.

    I started cutting this .040" aluminum with my Dremel, but hard around the corners. I tried some tin snips and much easier/faster to cut.





    My last back ordered item are my rear brake pads. Going to go and grab a set so that I can get on with my rear brake lines and setup. Fuel tank is also laid out and ready to go.
    Last edited by cv2065; 09-16-2018 at 10:05 PM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  8. #88
    #9160 BB767's Avatar
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    IMG_0582.jpg

    Hi CV,
    You had inquired about my Throttle set up but I could not post a picture there so I'll reply here. As you can see I simply bolted the ball joint of the throttle linkage directly into one of the existing holes in the FFR throttle pedal. There are three, choose the one that gives you the throw that you want, mine worked best in the last (top) hole. Have over 1000 miles on the car now and it works great, feels good.
    Brien
    MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands

  9. #89
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BB767 View Post
    IMG_0582.jpg

    Hi CV,
    You had inquired about my Throttle set up but I could not post a picture there so I'll reply here. As you can see I simply bolted the ball joint of the throttle linkage directly into one of the existing holes in the FFR throttle pedal. There are three, choose the one that gives you the throw that you want, mine worked best in the last (top) hole. Have over 1000 miles on the car now and it works great, feels good.
    Brien
    Thanks Brien! Question - Regarding the ball joints that screw into your throttle linkage rods, were both sides of your rods threaded? Only one side of mine are. Sent Forte a note but haven't heard back yet. Thanks again for the pics.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  10. #90
    #9160 BB767's Avatar
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    I do not believe they were. Most of them needed to be trimmed to fit then threaded. I think I even needed to extend some of the center holes after cutting to length.
    MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands

  11. #91
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Ok...been a busy week even outside the build, but have managed to get some stuff done. I'm really waiting for the weather to cool off. We're going into October and the temps were at 100 today. Would make building much more enjoyable, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do!

    Starting with the rear brake lines. I'm very happy with the way that they turned out. I used the pre-flared lengths from Advance Auto using one 60" line from the MC, then a union right under the driver footbox, then another 60" tube to the rear fitting. Too bad I don't have more to do...actually really enjoying running the line and solving the 'fitment puzzle'. It's especially challenging when you are dealing with fixed lengths. Oh, and I used the poly armor lines for the rear brakes since they were going under the car. Not really that much harder to bend than the Nicopp, but you can feel the weight and durability. Not sure if they are actually more durable, but seemed like the thing do to... Came out like this:




    I was looking at my rear brake line that runs from side to side and noticed a kink. Not sure how I missed that but had to create another piece. No big deal, but used the poly armor this time which is why there is a green and copper version in the pics. Came out great and only took about 10 minutes.

    I considered a couple of places to place my rear brake braided fittings and decided to place on the 3" tube right above the recommended cross beam. This came back to bite me a bit on the passenger side, as its right where my fuel line will run, so I'll have to relocate that one to the cross beam.



    I haven't secured the lines yet with clips in the event that I need tighten or move something during the bleeding process.

    Next up was my rear brakes calipers/pads. Still haven't received my back ordered brake pads, so ordered some from a 3rd party supplier so I could get the show on the road. These were the same rear pads as what comes with the complete kit, Stop Tech, model #309-0545. I will say that installing these pads does not line up with the instructions on the FFR site and creates a little confusion. For one, the pads do not look like the picture, as they have the spring on top that presses against the caliper. The fronts do not have this. Two, they don't use brake pad clips in the instructions, when you clearly need them to soak up about 1/16" of space and keep from being too noisy. Three, the instructions have you assemble the pads before installing on the rotor. Thanks to Rich pointing it out, everything needs to be placed on the rotor first, which makes installing the clips and brake pads MUCH easier than trying to balance it all on the bench. After figuring it out, all went in easily. I painted my adapter brackets black as they looked like they were ready to rust.






    Caliper brake lines aren't installed in the pictures, but I have since, and even at 17" (3" shorter than the front) they seem a little long but manageable.

    I also made sure that I didn't forget to fill the holes in the spindle that leads down to the hub with silicone. Don't want anything getting down in there.

    Last edited by cv2065; 09-29-2018 at 07:18 AM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  12. #92
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Moving on to the fuel tank. I had two sets of o rings in my kit for the fuel sender and pickup. One set was thicker and round, the other were thin and square. I picked the thicker round ones. When installing these, the FFR video says to use a fuel/oil resistance sealer, and they were using 'Seal All'. This sealer hardens up and I just couldn't see using that on a rubber o ring, so I used some Permatex gasket sealer and dressing. This helps seal the o-ring, but also stays pliable.

    Installation was simple and uneventful. I will say that I used the Ford part F4ZZ9072DA for the filler neck seal. I had read Edwardb's post stating that Ford part was much more robust than the FFR supplied part, and as usual, he was right. I thought I had taken a comparison pic, but can't find it. The rubber is much more robust and the inner seal has secondary ridge that helps seal against the fill tube. $35 later, but I think its worth it to ensure a leak free system. As you can see, I also bought the larger check valve from Breeze. It's made of plastic instead of metal.






    I also ensured to install the 4 barrel nuts for the fuel tank mod. I used the 7/16 sized nuts (about 2" in length) and 1" SS flanged bolts. I was able to source both of these from Lowes.

    I'm using the Breeze 3/8" pickup, as those are the size lines I'm running for my 427. Nicely made piece with a screen on the end. I am going to use regular rubber hoses at the tank and to the mechanical fuel pump as the pressure is low with this setup and should be all I need.



    Speaking of fuel lines, I was able to run that as well. I had to choose the passenger side or the driver's side. I think most run it up the driver's side, but since I'm running 3/8" Nicopp line, it just seemed too congested with the brake lines, so I ran up the passenger side. I ran one piece of 72" tube from the rear and then one union to another 60" piece up and around the front 4" tube. Again, the NiCopp line, even though it was 3/8", still easy to bend with a typical tube bender. I have not bent the final 3" up to meet the fuel pump rubber, as I'll do that after the engine is installed so I can line it up a little easier. Thought it turned out pretty nice. Just have to add the clips.

    Anyone know where I can get 3/8" female barbed fuel line connectors? I see a bunch of them for NPT fittings but not for flared fuel lines. Nothing local either. The FFR kit comes with them but they are of course for 5/16" lines. You'd think it would a staple at the local auto parts.


    Last edited by cv2065; 09-29-2018 at 07:23 AM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  13. #93
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    I did install the accelerator pedal and started laying out how it all fits together with the Forte mechanical linkage. Looks simple enough but BB767 was able to send me a few pics on how he aligned his. If you do have the Forte setup, you will have to drill out the linkage holes on the stock accelerator a little, as they are too small to accept the swivel fittings. Also, I'm trying to figure out if the linkage bracket on the accelerator pedal is designed to move up as it has an allen headed screw at the joint. The way it is now, the accelerator rod is hitting the interior wall, so it has to move up. I'll play around with it a little more, but if anyone has any other suggestions, I'm all ears!




    Next on the agenda is to start on my electrical and bleed my brakes once I get the passenger side bracket relocated.
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  14. #94
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Haven't posted in a while, but LOTS going on.

    First off, I did get to my electrical wiring harness and began sorting through it. First piece was to get the fuse box situated. The entire assembly went without a hitch, although it was a little trying getting it all to line up while drilling my holes as positioning yourself is a little awkward and the assembly frame concaves a little bit when riveting everything down. As with everything else, the plate was painted SG black.



    I fed all of the main harness wiring through the middle opening so it would pass right over the steering column. I have 3 holes cut in the firewall. I had 2 and one was behind one of the dash supports, so I evened out the space and cut a 3rd one. All of the wire harnesses passed through with grommets without any issues. One of my grommets was backwards as pulled out of the box, but it was already installed so had to control the OCD thing.




    I also installed the inertia switch just to the right of the steering column.


    As I connected the front harness to the main, I was having an issue finding a suitable location for the larger connector. The inboard side of the DS footbox has the Forte mechanical linkage arm coming up and I didn't want to place anything on top of my MCs feeder lines or brake lines, so I decided to run it up the outboard side of the box and out that hole. It's better from both a functional and aesthetic perspective. Papa did the same thing and said that the front light harness on the passenger side 'might' need to be extended due to the additional couple of inches that might be used to route it that way, but I'm good with the trade off.



    The F-Panel notching, as recommended by Edwardb, came in to play as the front harness was run, as it gives makes room for the harness and kind of gives it a place to sit as it winds through the front. I have the Breeze lower radiator mount that will go in later, and the harness will route across that, so I have it just sitting for now.


    Last edited by cv2065; 10-21-2018 at 02:26 AM.
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  15. #95
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    No real issues hooking up the rear harness, although I did discover that my fuel sender weather pack had two male plugs. Papa was kind enough to send me a female that he had left over and I ordered the Weatherpack tool on Amazon for $7. Took 10 mins to change it all out. I'll be using more Weatherpacks on my lights.

    I ran the rear harness up the drivers side of the tunnel as instructed, but I may run it up the passenger side as it 'might' interfere with my mechanical linkage...but we'll have to wait and see.



    Next up was my triple CNC brake reservoir. I luckily have a aluminum place here in Orlando that cuts any thickness, any size for simple walk in business, so I bought a 4x3 1/4" plate of aluminum for about $10. I'll be visiting them again for a couple pieces of .040 aluminum to fabricate a couple of side trunk panels as I've seen many do. Painted the plate gloss black and affixed it to the frame.





    I really liked how it turned out. I have stainless fittings in all holes from ACE and had to be a little careful on how things bolted up as my brake line runs right behind on the frame tube.

    Couple of things on the CNC reservoirs. First, there is some kind of discolored oxidation on the side finish of the canisters. I've looked through the forum and see it on just about everyone's. Must be something to do with the manufacturing, but with it being one of the center pieces in the engine compartment, I sent it out for black powder coating. Just the square canisters will be done with everything else taped off, but I think it will look much better with the black/stainless contrast. I'll be changing out the top 12 screws with button head SS as well.

    I'm also looking to change out the stock fittings on the bottom to 90 degree elbows as others have done. My only concern is that when fitting an elbow, if the fitting tightens up on the opposite side of where the elbow needs to be, I want to be sure that I don't strip the NPT threads on the canister itself. Once it gets back, I'll hook everything else up. I still need to deal with how the 3 fluid tubes are coming out through the larger hole. I've got a rubber fitting, just need to see how it fits.

    I ordered the Breeze front battery box assembly and was able to get it fitted and sent out for powder coating as well. Very nicely done piece and highly recommended. I will admit, the drilling, tapping and measuring for this box to ensure that everything lined up was a little time consuming. The instructions say to get your rivets on the cross member done first then tap the 4" tube to line up. IMO, one should tap the two front screws first then hit the pop rivets. In the event of mis-alignment, its much easier to fix a pop rivet hole than a tapped hole. Everything looks great and I'll update the pics as soon as its back and installed.

    Two things to note. As you see in the pics, I had to dog ear a corner of the box as it was sitting right on top of the weld at the center of the X brace and could not sit flush. Also, once sat flush against the x brace, the box was about 1/8" off from being square against the front 4" tube. Not sure if it is the box or frame itself, but no biggie.

    The instructions do say that the holes drilled for the box are for multiple vehicle designs, so you may have to adjust some. My bottom hole was too low to get a drill bit squared up and others had to be drilled, as the instructions call for a total of 5 on the x brace.


    Last edited by cv2065; 10-21-2018 at 02:29 AM.
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  16. #96
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    I was able to tackle my e-brake in a couple of hours. I followed edwardb's lead and ordered the Lokar assembly. Filed it down, drilled some new holes and installed. I had to angle the assembly a bit from front to back to ensure that no contact was made with the frame and hardware. I'm sure that further adjustment might be needed when the panels are back on. I will say that if you are going to do the modification, that you pay attention to how the bolts are aligned and facing. I had to pull it a couple of times to rearrange a bit.





    I was about 1/16" too high on my two wheels, but it should function just fine. I wasn't able to get a drill on the tube from the inboard side, so had to measure and drill from the other side, where I was just a little off. You have to pull the e-brake up about 1/2 way for full engagement. I'd like to tighten that up a bit on final assembly.
    Last edited by cv2065; 10-21-2018 at 01:48 AM.
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  17. #97
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    I have the Forte mechanical linkage and wanted to start tackling what I could of that before my engine arrives (November 19th is the completion date). I was a little staggered on my final engine decision, so delayed it a bit, but all A OK!

    I drilled the first fitting through the 2" tubing. I saw that a few others did the same and thought it was the most stable, plus it gets it low enough where there are no worries at all with it hitting the top of the DS footbox. I bought a box of 180 grommets at Harbor Freight for $6. Comes with 8 sizes of grommets and plenty of them. Consider that you might pay $2 for just one grommet at Lowes and its a bargain. Unfortunately, 3" chrome 3/8-24 screws do not come at a bargain at ACE, as I needed 2 of them at $5 each. That's a hard size to come by and ACE only has them in chrome, so really no choice, but of course, they look great. You can see how it peeks out on the inside of the 2" tube. Nothing is tightened up at this point...just getting the lay of the land.





    When trying to level out the mechanical throttle bar against the side wall of the footbox to get the proper place for drilling, its a little challenging as the box sidewall sits at an angle. In order to get close fitting 5/8" diameter grommet in place and still be able to spin the rod, I had to go pretty large at a 1/2" drill bit.



    I did cut and tap the interior rod (1/4-28) and loosely set it up for operation. I cut the rod to about 13". All looks good from this end at this point. I won't be able to get the rest done until I can align with the throttle assembly on the carb.
    Last edited by cv2065; 10-21-2018 at 09:53 AM.
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  18. #98
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, I had to revamp my fuel system, as using a mechanical pump is not going to be an option with the 427 and PS pump/pulley system. So, decided to go with an in-tank pump, regulator and return line. The Pro M Racing hangar just arrived, with the Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump. Go big or go home right?





    Wasn't aware that some cutting needed to be done to the tank to fit the Pro M Racing hangar, but consulted with Boydster who gave me a few ideas on technique and product selection (Gotta love the members on this forum!). Was a pretty easy endeavor and duct taping the shop vac around the hole worked like a champ to ensure nothing got inside the tank while I was grinding away with my Dremel and grind stone. Below is a during the operation and afterward shots. I also used duct tape (sticky side up) both inside and outside the hole to pick up any stray micro shavings.





    The Pro M Racing instructions are very good, and state to cut two sides of the tank opening. You really only need to cut the larger side. If you lightly press on the return line of the hanger when inserting, it goes in and out easily.

    As you can see in the pics, the Pro M hangar has two different sized plugs. Have no idea why they did that, as the little plug is not that common. I will most likely cut the connectors off of the hanger side and just reconnect with butt connectors with the Aeromotive pigtail and then use some fuel resistant shrink tubing. Anyone know where I can score a couple of pieces? Seems that the outlets all want you to buy in some kind of bulk, except for McMasters, but I'm not 100% that their version is gasoline resistant. If anyone knows, just let me know.

    I'll be running the Aeromotive A1000 regulator for carbs. That should be coming this week with a Trickflow canister filter by Tuesday, then I'll have all my parts and can start effectively planning out my new fuel lines.
    Last edited by cv2065; 10-21-2018 at 02:32 AM.
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  19. #99
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Look what my powder coater sent back to me this week! This Gloss Black will look great! As I was researching experiences with wheel sheens, I saw a lot of likes for Black Satin, but I also read from a few that Satin looks 'dirty' all the time. Not sure how true that is, but the wet look is always in style and these are the first of my Ruby Red/Blacked out color scheme.



    One thing on the spinners. When powder coated, I've seen examples where everything is black, including the threads. If coated lightly, can the threads of the spinners be powder coated as well without having functionality issues?
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  21. #100
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    Looks sharp! I'd not recommend coating the threads on the spinner parts, though.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
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  22. #101
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    Nice progress! Couple quick comments: The CNC reservoirs are cast, so not the shiny finish like a rolled or machine cut aluminum piece. I don't think they're oxidized or anything. Just the natural grey of cast aluminum. Like you said, pretty typically. It's possible to polish them with products made for that purpose and make them a little shinier and up the bling factor. Powder coating is another approach. Hopefully you disassembled the top from the reservoirs? I don't think that gasket would like the heat too much. Also I assume you're aware powder coating isn't 100% resistant to brake fluid? So be careful. It won't strip off like paint. But it will very quickly discolor or dull the sheen.

    I see you're using lots of SS hardware. Looks nice and I use it too. Hopefully you're dabbing a little anti-seize on those threads during assembly. Don't need a lot. But it will prevent the unfortunate habit of SS to gall and then seize. They don't come apart at that point without damage. Unfortunately, I know this from experience.

    For your fuel pump/hangar connections, have been through that a couple times. I haven't found heat shrink tubing that seems specifically made for that. What I have found, and use, are Molex Perma-Seal butt connectors. List gasoline as one of the things that are compatible with. DelCity.net has them in straight through or step down sizes: https://www.delcity.net/store/Perma!...12022.h_812023. https://www.delcity.net/store/Perma!...12028.h_812029. Unfortunately, you have to buy at least 10. So you'll have some left over. But not too expensive and not something you want to fail.
    Last edited by edwardb; 10-21-2018 at 11:07 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
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  24. #102
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Looks sharp! I'd not recommend coating the threads on the spinner parts, though.
    Thanks Dave. I'll probably just have the powder coater tape the threads off. Was just thinking about that edge that is vulnerable to damage, but they shouldn't be coming on/off to often.
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  25. #103
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Nice progress! Couple quick comments: The CNC reservoirs are cast, so not the shiny finish like a rolled or machine cut aluminum piece. I don't think they're oxidized or anything. Just the natural grey of cast aluminum. Like you said, pretty typically. It's possible to polish them with products made for that purpose and make them a little shinier and up the blink factor. Powder coating is another approach. Hopefully you disassembled the top from the reservoirs? I don't think that gasket would like the heat too much. Also I assume you're aware powder coating isn't 100% resistant to brake fluid? So be careful. It won't strip off like paint. But it will very quickly discolor or dull the sheen.

    I see you're using lots of SS hardware. Looks nice and I use it too. Hopefully you're dabbing a little anti-seize on those threads during assembly. Don't need a lot. But it will prevent the unfortunate habit of SS to gall and then seize. They don't come apart at that point without damage. Unfortunately, I know this from experience.

    For your fuel pump/hangar connections, have been through that a couple times. I haven't found heat shrink tubing that seems specifically made for that. What I have found, and use, are Molex Perma-Seal butt connectors. List gasoline as one of the things that are compatible with. DelCity.net has them in straight through or step down sizes: https://www.delcity.net/store/Perma!...12022.h_812023. https://www.delcity.net/store/Perma!...12028.h_812029. Unfortunately, you have to buy at least 10. So you'll have some left over. But not too expensive and not something you want to fail.
    Thanks for the feedback Paul. Regarding the CNC reservoirs, I disassembled all the way down to just the square cans. Took the top metal and gasket pieces off and set them aside. Told the powder coater to make sure that he didn't hit the top of the can where the square gasket sits, or inside. Also, per your thread, I replaced the hardware on the top of each canister. I'll definitely be watching what I'm doing around the brake fluid piece, as I know it will eat anything it touches paint wise.

    I'll head over to Del City and pick some of those up. I know it might be overkill, but was thinking of shrinking some of that DR-25 shrink over it for added assurance or are the butt connectors enough?
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  26. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    I'll head over to Del City and pick some of those up. I know it might be overkill, but was thinking of shrinking some of that DR-25 shrink over it for added assurance or are the butt connectors enough?
    You shrink them with a heat gun after crimping. They seal up really well. I don't think anything else is necessary.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
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    Looking forward to following your build. It's almost identical to my plans.

  28. #106
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Been a while since my last post, but progress is happening. Probably not at Carl's speed, but it's there...

    Ok, so was able to get my Pro M Racing fuel assembly completed. Cut the connectors off of the Pro M housing and butt connected it with the pigtail from the Aeromotive a1000 pump.

    Two things. First, I used the Perma Seal butt connectors per Paul's recommendation and I'll tell you what, those are the real deal!! They shrink up nice and I had a sample test in fuel for over a week and no issues at all. They have some kind of jelly inside that liquifies when heated up then hardens up when cold. Bought myself a 'real' butt connector ratcheting crimper. It was $50, but hey, gotta have the right tools and the old standby cheapy was not cutting it for an 8GA crimp.

    Now, being the anal person that I am, I thought that I would put come DC-25 heat shrink over it for some "double protection". Either I didn't have the real deal DC-25 or it simply swells up after a few days in fuel. Needless to say that I didn't use it and stuck with the Perma Seal connectors.







    If you are using the Pro M Racing fuel pump housing, you'll want to ensure that the sock that goes on the end is in the right position before inserting it into the tank. I didn't do that and it got all jacked up and folded, so had to pull the housing to fix. And I don't have to tell anyone that has installed this housing, that's not a fun deal, as the sides of the tank are like razors, and want to cut up your wiring as you try and wiggle it through in the right position. None the less, got it in and ready to rumble.
    Last edited by cv2065; 11-03-2018 at 12:57 PM.
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  30. #107
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Next up was the Trick Flow filter. I had a small inline one picked out from Aeromotive, but then saw what Paul was using (Trickflow Cannister) and had to have it. So, it installed without a hitch.

    Last edited by cv2065; 11-03-2018 at 01:17 PM.
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  31. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Next up was the Trick Flow pump...
    For the record, a filter not a pump. But then you knew that... It's a nice piece. Great progress on your build.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
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  32. #109
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    I ran both of my 3/8" line from front to back. Actually, wasn't that bad once I got the hang of it, as its quite a bit thicker than the 3/16" brake line, but the Nicopp made it easy to bend. If you are using one of these type of tubing benders, you'll want to ensure that you have equal pressure on both handles when bending. If not, you may end up with a small indention in your tube where the bracket holds it in place. Nothing that will affect operation, but if you are into good looking tubing, may cramp your style.



    As soon as I get all of my tubing brackets in place, I'll post a play by play around how I routed it in case anyone is doing the same with the 3/8 lines.

    I did get my Aeromotive Fuel Regulator in place. I pushed it as far as I could towards the passenger footbox with clearance in mind. The Input is right on the nose of the regulator, so didn't want it to get close to anything hot. Man, Aeromotive makes some high quality stuff. Hopefully it works as good as it looks.

    Also, bought an Auto Meter fuel pressure gauge and installed it. Was surprised that it didn't install face up on the Automotive regulator, but I guess its more situated to a driver's side readout when at the carb. Either way, should be good to go and high quality piece as well.





    And per a few people's suggestion, I moved my wiper motor up a bit, which I think looks much better. Just used a couple of plastic plugs from ACE to plug the open holes. Can't even tell really.

    Next up for today is to adjust my accelerator pedal and start with the seam seal on my footboxes. I am waiting on one more compression fitting from Breeze and I'll finish up my fuel lines.
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  33. #110
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    For the record, a filter not a pump. But then you knew that... It's a nice piece. Great progress on your build.
    LOL....Thanks Paul! I'm into my 6th beer...
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  34. #111
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Been a while since my last post, but progress is happening. Probably not at Carl's speed, but it's there...
    Thanks for the Shout Out... It's not that I'm building any faster than anyone else, it's that I have no life.... that allows me to spend about 25-30 hours per week on my build. Your car is looking awesome, must be the "anal" side of you making it look so good...

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
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  35. #112
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Thanks for the Shout Out... It's not that I'm building any faster than anyone else, it's that I have no life.... that allows me to spend about 25-30 hours per week on my build. Your car is looking awesome, must be the "anal" side of you making it look so good...
    LOL...You crack me up Carl. Thanks for the kudos. I could be wrong, but I certainly think you have the record for fastest build!
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