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Thread: CV2065 MKIV Build Thread

  1. #1
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    CV2065 MKIV Build Thread

    OK guys. I've been posting for a while and thought I'd make it official and get a build thread rolling. So here's what we have to work with, as well as mods that I've planned.

    MKIV Complete Kit
    Powder Coated Chassis
    351W Mounts
    IRS
    Body with Cutouts
    Black Vinyl Roadster Seats
    Power Steering Kit
    Standard Width LCA
    GPS Gauges
    Halibrand Replica 17"x9" Front and 17"x10.5" Rear
    Stainless Exhaust
    Wind Wings/Sun Visors
    Wiper Kit
    Brake Duct Wire Mesh
    Battery Cutoff
    Vinyl Dash with Glovebox
    Roll Bar - Powder Coated Black
    Roll Bar Grommets
    Assembled Side Louvers
    Center Dash Support
    Leather Steering Wheel

    Other Upgrades
    Russ Thompson Turn Signals
    Forte Hydraulic Clutch
    Forte Mechanical Accelerator Linkage
    Exhaust Heat Shields - Finish Line
    Under Dash Filler Panel - Replica Parts
    Front Battery Box - Breeze
    Radiator Shroud - Breeze
    Triple 1482 Reservoir Kit w/Pressure Bleeder Lid- CNC
    Roadster Radiator Panel - Replica Parts
    Lower Radiator Mount - Breeze
    Seat Belt and Steering Hole Trim

    Engine/Trans
    408 Stroker
    Tremec TKO 600
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  2. #2
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Took delivery this past Tuesday. Warren the driver was great. I didn't think he'd be able to get that 18 wheeler in my neighborhood, but somehow, he did it. Had a great "we'll get this done" attitude the entire time and really gave himself a workout in this hot Florida humidity! Great experience with Stewart...

    Sorry about the pics...not sure why some of them came out upside down. Anyone know how to rotate them?

    IMG_1016.jpgIMG_1022.jpgIMG_1023.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  3. #3
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Here's the workshop. You'd think with a 3 car garage I'd have more space to move around in, but not so much. Thinking about selling my Harley, but I built that golf cart for the wife and she'd probably get nasty if I tried to sell it. Either way, we'll make it work!
    IMG_1024.jpgIMG_1025.jpgIMG_1026.jpg
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  4. #4
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Just finished up inventory yesterday. Easy to get into the weeds with some of those bags when it comes to washers, bolts and electrical connectors, but I'm a bit uptight like that so had to count everything. Seems like I'm missing the following right out of the gate.

    Spring Hat
    Spring Collar
    Steering Wheel Boss (Was hoping to get this to Russ Thompson!)
    E-Brake Hardware Pack and Cables
    Front Spindles
    Rear Brake Pads
    31 Spline Drive Shaft
    Halibrand Lugs, Spinners, Nuts, Cover and Adaptors

    Some things that said they were in the boxes but I couldn't find:
    Plastic Gas Cap
    Driver Footbox Front Patch Cover
    Fuel Strap Block Off Plate
    Wiper Hole Tool (Not sure what this looks like)
    Clutch Quadrant Stop
    Fuel Tank Cover
    Filler Neck Retaining Ring
    Center Dash Support Instructions
    Glove Box Hinges (Left and Right)

    So not too terrible, but hopefully they all come in quickly. I've already sent the list to FFR, so we'll see.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  5. #5
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    So, started evaluating the panels tonight. Seems like they all line up pretty good, with maybe just a couple of tweaks.

    First hole is the hardest right? Can anyone identify where is a common place to trim? I can't really see an area that is off so much that I'd want to trim it, but then again, not sure what areas are to be flush with the top of the frame and which aren't. For example, the two rear panels extend about a graduated inch above the small rail. Shown in picture below. The area right behind the Dr. Pepper bottle. Both sides are like that, so I'm assuming that they are correct, but thought I'd check.

    IMG_1056.jpg



    I've read where some go ahead and just drill the panel and the frame at the same time, and where others drill the panels first then hang them and drill through the frame. I think I'm going to do the latter and work on a section at a time with the clecos.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  6. #6
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Several comments:

    - Don't trim those trunk sides. That's where the bulb seal attaches. I can say with high confidence -- the sheet metal on the Roadster has been refined to the point that there will be little/no trimming. Basically, if you think something needs to be trimmed, check the instructions and how you have it assembled. Specifically check you have the overlaps in the right order. They're that precise. At this stage, you may need to nip a little here and there to clear a weld, but that's about it. Later when fitting the body, you may need to trim some. But not now.

    - I'm definitely in the drill the aluminum first and then drill in the chassis. Then cleco as you go.

    - For you parts listing, I'm assuming the first group are on your Parts Order List (POL). Some of those would be pretty big items to be missed. Plus are common shortage items. POL items should arrive over the next weeks without you doing anything. But doesn't hurt to ask.

    - For the second group, couple things to check. Don't think you need the clutch quadrant stop with your hydraulic clutch. Those block-off plates are small rectangles that are likely in the loose aluminum box. Would be easy to miss. The gas tank cover is shipped in the box with the gas tank. They're assembled. Sure it's not there? The wiper gauge should be in the box with the rest of the optional wiper parts. It's a welded piece with a bushing to drill the holes in the body. Would be pretty hard to miss. For the dash and glovebox hinges, they're really not typical hinges. Just bent plates that you bond to the back of the door. Check this post that describes it: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/4942049-post7.html.

    Have fun with it!
    Last edited by edwardb; 07-20-2018 at 08:47 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  7. #7
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Thanks for that detailed reply Paul. Much appreciated. I was thinking that those panels didn’t need to be trimmed, but thought I’d check. I’m really impressed with the overall panel fitment right out of the gate. I’ll check back through my parts based on your descriptions. Should help identify some of those pieces if I’ve missed them.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  8. #8
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    I got my kit just 9 months ago and I trimmed every panel I have. I had to. Even though they use robots to cut the fiberglass there is still a lot of room for error in fiberglass. Every car is different. What will work for some may not for you and vise versa.

    Good luck and looking forward to your build.
    F5R9196 Hand built 347 475hp EFI | T5Z | LSD 3.73 3-link | Power Steering | Power Brakes | Vintage Air | 315/35ZR17 & 275/40ZR17 NT555

    "Iíve been watching your build with admiration (this guys got his sh*t together). You just took it to a whole new level. " ~David Hammer

  9. #9
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    I got my kit just 9 months ago and I trimmed every panel I have. I had to. Even though they use robots to cut the fiberglass there is still a lot of room for error in fiberglass. Every car is different. What will work for some may not for you and vise versa.

    Good luck and looking forward to your build.
    I don't want to get off topic in cv2065's build thread too far. Also don't want to be argumentative. But need to respond because I don't understand the points you made in your post, which could influence this build and others. Of the 50-60 aluminum panels in the kit, literally only a handful are touching the fiberglass or affected by variations in the body. And even then, usually doesn't change how the panels are mounted. Most are affected by the chassis, which while sometimes not perfect, is fixture built (mostly...) and pretty accurate. In four builds, with only a few exceptions, I've found the laser cut FF aluminum panels to be surprisingly accurate.

    My point to the OP, as a first time builder, was to check assembly and the instructions very carefully before trimming anything. More often than not, trimming could be the result of not assembling correctly. Or in the case of the question regarding overhang along the top of the trunk sides, not knowing that is for bulb seal attachment. Not saying trimming or adjustments aren't part of the build, because you're right every one is different. But make it the last thing you do versus the first.

    As for the body, you're right, the smaller FF in-house produced parts are final trimmed using a robot. Pretty cool to see during a plant tour. But they're intentionally cut oversize. The Roadster bodies themselves are made at an outside supplier. I'm not familiar with how they're finished, but based on what I've seen not quite the precision of what FF themselves does. In either case though, the bulk of the aluminum panel fitting and mounting isn't affected by this. Body fitting and mounting does require a degree of finesse. Certainly agree with that.
    Last edited by edwardb; 07-21-2018 at 06:46 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  10. #10
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Moving right along this morning. Pulling the panels off section by section, noting how they go together and then marking where they are to be drilled is working out well. I'll then be able to just drill everything at one time. I like to compartmentalize tasks! If that is a word...

    IMG_1062.jpg

    Anyhow, I had to remount the rear panels again as the other metal is out of the way to mark it correctly. I did notice that a couple of welds on the frame towards the front of the panels is keeping it from sitting flush. I'm going to notch out about a 1/4" there on both panels. I don't think it will affect the way the cockpit panel sits as I've already marked those but will test fit it again just in case.

    IMG_1064.jpg

    I also noticed that the bottom of the outside footbox panels were riding along a seam and don't sit flush when pushed up against the frame. I'm going to trim those about 1/4" as well so that they fit without any stress.

    IMG_1065.jpgIMG_1063.jpg
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  11. #11
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Took the kids to Universal Studios this morning. Season passes are nice as you can go for a couple of hours and leave. Spent half day and got back and went to work on the car. I was able to get A LOT done, which was very pleasing.

    Referencing the last post about trimming the rear panels to accommodate the welds. I did notch each side about 1/4", but come to find out because of the way the panel is designed, it really didn't give it any relief in fitting more flush. Not a huge deal, so went about my way.

    Was able to strip the entire frame down, mark every panel from behind and start drilling. Today I got the main trunk pan, trunk side panels, driver and passenger floor pans and F panels drilled and fitted. The only thing I haven't done as of yet is drill into the frame. I'm taking Jeff Kleiner's advice and in this order, marking, drilling the panel, fitting the panel, drilling into the frame and then silicone with rivet. 5 steps but well worth it to get these right. I have to get everything powder coated first of course, so only the first 4 steps are possible right now.

    IMG_1075.jpgIMG_1076.jpgIMG_1077.jpg

    Although I thought everything fit pretty well, have trimmed a few pieces so far. The passenger side piece of the cockpit wall needed some trimming where it meets the side door frame. I also had to trim the passenger side floor pan where it runs flush with the top of the frame of the center console. Took about 1/8" off of each to make flush with my new Dremel tool. Used a 2x4 as a guide to get a straight line and then deburred the edges. If you don't have a Dremel starting a build, you really should get one. Other than that, pretty nice fitment.

    I'll be starting on the foot boxes tomorrow or Tuesday.

    By the way, if anyone is looking for good Cobalt drill bits for a decent price, I'm using these from Amazon. They stay very sharp, are double sided and walk very little on the panels. I'm hoping that will hold true for the frame.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Last edited by cv2065; 07-22-2018 at 11:05 PM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  12. #12
    Senior Member HiggyMK4#????'s Avatar
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    Go Speed Racer Go!!

  13. #13
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    Powder Coating

    Do you plan on powder coating your panels? If so, which is preferred, before or after drilling all the mounting holes? Edwardb?

  14. #14
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gobozo View Post
    Do you plan on powder coating your panels? If so, which is preferred, before or after drilling all the mounting holes? Edwardb?
    Yes, I’m going to powder coat everything. Powder coating after drilling holes is preferred, as you don’t want to mar up your new powder coated finish, which could scratch or chip when drilling if you are not careful.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  15. #15
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Yes, I’m going to powder coat everything. Powder coating after drilling holes is preferred, as you don’t want to mar up your new powder coated finish, which could scratch or chip when drilling if you are not careful.
    Yep, pretty sure most would agree any finish on the panels (powder coat, paint, etc.) should be after they're fitting and drilled. Agreed you don't want to scratch or mar the newly finished panels. Properly applied powder coat typically shouldn't chip. Other reasons include the the possibility of minor trimming or tweaking bends. Better to do that with bare panels vs. coated. Also lots of marking involved in laying out the holes. Better not to be doing that on finished panels.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  16. #16
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Was able to work on the car again this evening for a couple of hours. I was able to get the passenger foot box built again. Origami should be a pre-requisite here.

    I will say that one thing I've learned is that, especially when it comes to the foot boxes, even though I made good marks on the panels before disassembly, I still missed a couple of things and had to review the panel fitment again before I started drilling. Even some of the areas that I marked for drilling, I abandoned after taking a second look on how things fit together as you only want holes on one side or the other. Pictures beforehand are essential and had to review them a couple of times as well.

    IMG_1078.jpgIMG_1079.jpg

    I figure if I can devote a couple of hours a day to the build, and still be ready for dinner with the family, I can make good progress and still be in the good graces of the homestead. Tomorrow I think I'm ready to start drilling holes into the frame as well as the foot box before I move to the other side.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  17. #17
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    Concerning the powder coating, my concern would be a decrease in the size of the rivet holes as a result.
    Last edited by Gobozo; 07-23-2018 at 10:46 PM.

  18. #18
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gobozo View Post
    Concerning the powder coating, my concern would be a decrease in the size of the rivet holes as a result.
    Metal expands and contracts with heat but I wouldn't worry about holes closing up....
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  19. #19


    Not a waxer
    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Metal expands and contracts with heat but I wouldn't worry about holes closing up....
    The buildup of the powder coating in the i.d. of the holes can make getting a rivet in difficult which can necessitate running a reamer or bit through to open them up again.

    Jeff

  20. #20
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    The buildup of the powder coating in the i.d. of the holes can make getting a rivet in difficult which can necessitate running a reamer or bit through to open them up again.

    Jeff
    Now that you mention it Jeff, I think I've read you saying that before. Thanks for the reminder!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  21. #21
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Moving right along and started drilling today. Focus was on getting the passenger foot box finally fitted and drilled, as well as the trunk floor pans and side panels. Clecos helped out a lot. Had the wife get inside the frame and push up on a couple of pieces so that I could get a flush fitting when drilling my holes. She had just put on clean clothes to go for a cheerleading meeting for my daughter. A few metal filings flying her way and a close call with a drill bit and that was the end of that, but luckily, we finished up that area.

    Everything went together great. However, the inside panel of the passenger foot box that meets and rivets to the side of the v-shape center console panel was about 1/8" out of alignment at the top. No matter how I tried to maneuver the foot box, the result was the same. You can't notice it in the pictures, but in the same fashion as I know every minor scratch and dent on my wife's Jeep, I see it. There was plenty of overlap to rivet the pieces together, but trying to go for perfection here as much as possible. I looked at the pictures I took before removing all the panels, and see it there as well. Everything else lined up perfectly, so I moved on.

    One thing I found out is that some of my holes were not accessible for my drill as they were too close to a frame piece or too close to a panel. I'll have to buy some longer drill bits for harder to reach areas.

    Overall, a productive day. Tomorrow I'll finish up my drilling in the hard to reach areas on the passenger side and then start on the cockpit panels.

    IMG_1082.jpgIMG_1083.jpgIMG_1081.jpg
    Last edited by cv2065; 07-24-2018 at 08:15 PM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  22. #22
    Straversi's Avatar
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    If you can't get our drill in there, you probably can't get your rivet gun in either. Check how the rivet tool fits into those hard to reach areas before you go get special drill bits.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  23. #23
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    If you can't get our drill in there, you probably can't get your rivet gun in either. Check how the rivet tool fits into those hard to reach areas before you go get special drill bits.
    -Steve
    Good point Steve. I’ll try with both my air and manual riveters tomorrow and see how much space I have. Mistake I made was not measuring where those hard to reach areas were on the panels so I could skip over them when drilling my holes. What’s the best looking way to plug a couple of unwanted holes in the aluminum panel?
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  24. #24
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Ha, I’ve got more experience covering up my mistakes than I’d like to admit. If you are going to use lizard skin sound/ heat shield you will find it covers up many sins. It will seal an extra rivit hole. If the rivit is in a visible place you can make a bridge patch that catches the rivet on either side. Cut the stem off of a rivet and shove it in the hole and give it a tap with a hammer if you can reach. Keep in mind, one extra or one less rivet isn’t going to make any difference in the structure.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  25. #25
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Had a productive couple of days getting ALL of my panels drilled and fitted. With the Florida heat in my garage, I've probably lost 10 pounds in water weight. Man is it SWELTERING with the humidity. I'm from here and still can't get used to it year over year!

    IMG_1089.jpgIMG_1090.jpegIMG_1091.jpgIMG_1092.jpg

    I don't know how many holes I've drilled exactly, but as many of you know, it's a lot, but glad to get this part of the equation out of the way, and get to the fun stuff. All of the panels went together pretty well. The cockpit rear wall was a little challenging, as I had to bend a few of the flanges in order for them to line up with the larger panel from the rear. Not sure what they are called, but the angular small panels that fit against the tunnel and rear panel were challenging to get just right, as everything else aligns with those.

    I do have the thicker firewall that also went in without a hitch. It was noticeably heavier and identical to the FFR supplied piece.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  26. #26
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    One difficulty I did have that I just noticed as I was buttoning up some other panels in the cockpit, was the outer panel of the passenger side foot box. The gap at the bottom seems to be a little larger than I would like (1/4"). The factory screws holding the panel were in, so must have been situated this way from the factory.

    I took out all of my clecos and attempted to adjust the box in it's entirely, and I was successful in getting it aligned again, BUT, getting that straight was a domino effect with the top part of the box and that began to get misaligned. The box naturally wanted to go back to where it was originally, which is where it sits now. I looked at a few more build threads and have seen the same thing on a couple of others. Is this just one of those from the frame being different on every build, or is there something else I should try? I had drilled a new line of holes to accommodate the new position of the panel, but as I mentioned, its now back where its "comfortable"....

    Sorry, my pic is turned 90 degrees counter clockwise.

    IMG_1095.jpeg
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  27. #27
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    One difficulty I did have that I just noticed as I was buttoning up some other panels in the cockpit, was the outer panel of the passenger side foot box. The gap at the bottom seems to be a little larger than I would like (1/4"). The factory screws holding the panel were in, so must have been situated this way from the factory.
    Are you referring to the gap between the 2 x 2 inch tube and the cutout at the notch? You shouldn't try to move the whole assembly to close that. As you said, it cascades into a whole bunch of other things not fitting. There are several ways that can be filled (aluminum tape, seam sealer, piece of aluminum, etc.) and I suspect you'll find some others that also require some similar filling. Like around the round tube out the bottom of the passenger side footbox, the cutouts around the seat belt tabs, etc. Normal part of the aluminum panel fit-up.

    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    ...Is this just one of those from the frame being different on every build...
    Not sure why you think that. The frames are built on a giant fixture with everything held to close tolerances. If you haven't been to the factory, you should check it out sometime.
    Last edited by edwardb; 07-30-2018 at 06:08 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  28. #28
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback Paul. I’ll leave as is and take your advice to fill. I’ll probably cut a small piece of aluminum similar to the space you referenced on the tube inside of the box. Inside the box is actually pretty tight around that tube. The reason I mentioned frame tolerance is that the gap is not very noticeable on the drivers side, but that being said, it is an entire separate assembly, so may not be relevant.

    Would love to tour the plant, but just not in the cards these days from a travel perspective. Thanks again!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  29. #29
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Please explain the "Thicker Firewall" Is this an option from FF or somewhere else? Thanks

  30. #30
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Please explain the "Thicker Firewall" Is this an option from FF or somewhere else? Thanks
    Sure. Here’s the link from ffmetals. Nice piece.

    http://www.ffmetal.com/index.html#fw1
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  31. #31
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Wow...I had some good intimate time with the car today. Wife was out and kids were doing their thing. One thing is for sure...It is HUMID in Orlando. I had to change clothes twice within a couple of hours as I was drenched with sweat!

    Anyhow, the morning started off enlarging the spindle holes as well as cutting the ears off and that went very well. Aluminum cut really easy on both accounts. I used a Reciprocating saw from my favorite place, Harbor Freight ($20 after discount) and an 8T blade, as the instructions say anything around a 14T would gum up. Finished off the cut with my flapper disc and its nice and smooth. Looks like it came that way. Biggest challenge here was holding the spindle as its such an odd shape as the cutting causes a lot of vibration. I've got an old B&D portable work bench that did the trick.

    IMG_1101.jpgIMG_1102.jpg

    Next on the list was to enlarge the holes on the IRS pumpkin. Parked the pumpkin on my transmission jack and went to work. Although I knew better, started off like a banshee out of the gate with high speed to get it done quickly and the drill caught, twisted and nearly tore my wrist off. It was slow going from that point, just a little at a time but got it done. The force may have cured my carpel tunnel in my right hand!

    From there, it was time to install the IRS pumpkin. Wasn't really looking forward to this and although my wife said she would help, she conveniently disappeared to the mall, so I was flying solo.

    I parked the trans jack with pumpkin up underneath the frame, raised the jack a little then lifted the front of the center section up into the frame and then over the front mount. Once there, I slowly jacked the transmission jack up a few inches, re-seated the front of the trans, and then rinsed and repeated a few times until it was in position with all 4 ears. The rear bolts went in pretty easily. The front bolts not so much. I think my two front holes were sharing about 1/16" off in alignment, so one would go in, but the other was missing ever so slightly because of the metal sleeve. So, I backed them both out completely, then started one, then started the other and used a ratchet (so the sleeve would stay in place) with a little grease and went from side to side a little at a time until they were both fully seated, nice and flush. Ended up changing over to my car jack during this process.

    Haven't torqued them down yet, as I had to get an electrolyte replenishment. Did I mention the garage floor was wet because I'm sweating so much? I was ready to power down, and update my build thread under the ceiling fan.

    IMG_1103.jpgIMG_1104.jpgIMG_1105.jpgIMG_1106.jpgIMG_1105.jpg

    Next up tonight will be to work on my upper/lower control arms, cv axles, spindles and tow arms (although my toe arms rod ends are on backorder), so only can do so much there.
    Last edited by cv2065; 08-04-2018 at 04:06 PM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  32. #32
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Had a little delay the night before last with the kids, and wasn't able to get to the control arms, axles, etc. However, I did finally get all of my panels and brackets out of the garage and into powder coat. I know the owner and he gave me the 'friends and family' discount, which was great. $500 for the entire lot of 57 panels and a box of brackets in Satin Black, and it will be most likely done before the weekend. I'll have to make another trip back for the wheels and windshield trim, but I think I got just about everything in one trip. Can't wait to get it all back!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  33. #33
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    You are making some great progress! Keep up the good work!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  34. #34
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Well, not a lot happening today. I'd start on the rear suspension and remembered that the ends of the toe arm are on backorder, and that looks to be the first step after installing the pumpkin. I started on the pedal box, and remembered that some of those parts are at the powder coaters. I then moved to the front suspension, and F-panels are at the powder coaters as well, but I know some things can be done, so I at least installed the lower control arms. Didn't want to put the upper on in case I couldn't get to a rivet on the panel.

    IMG_1116.jpgIMG_1117.jpg

    I had to use the spacers on both arms of the passenger side. Drivers side, as many have said, was a little different as the left arm was too tight and the mounting ear had to be bent slightly. Couple whacks of a dead blow hammer and it moved just enough to install. Right arm needed a spacer. Everything tightened up nicely and I just sat the castle nut and spacer on the studs with kotter pin for safe keeping. Oh, and thanks to Wareagle for noticing the correct orientation of the spacer, as it is beveled side down.

    Started testing out my HF rivet gun tonight. Hooked it all up and first shot it sprayed oil everywhere. Followed directions on filling with oil, but maybe it was slightly overfilled and just equalized itself, as the oil became less and less with each shot. Other issue was that although the gun shot the rivet, it would not auto break the end off and shoot it into the collection cup. Not sure what's going on there, but its going back tomorrow for a replacement. The gun has enough positive reviews to give it another shot.

    I'm hoping that I will get my backordered parts here soon, as we are about 2.5 weeks since delivery. Probably will give FFR a call tomorrow and find out where we are.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  35. #35
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I've also bought one of the HF rivet guns, and yes... sprayed oil all over everywhere (luckily it was on a test panel...). I also had a few instances where I had to take another bite on a rivet and give it another go - then it'd snap the shank off. It's getting better with use.
    (BTW - it won't "shoot" the shank into the cup... It'll just snap off and remain in the gun. A little shake and gravity will drop it rearward, or the next rivet will knock it backward)
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  36. #36
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    I've also bought one of the HF rivet guns, and yes... sprayed oil all over everywhere (luckily it was on a test panel...). I also had a few instances where I had to take another bite on a rivet and give it another go - then it'd snap the shank off. It's getting better with use.
    (BTW - it won't "shoot" the shank into the cup... It'll just snap off and remain in the gun. A little shake and gravity will drop it rearward, or the next rivet will knock it backward)
    Thanks John. I thought it might work itself out and shot about 10 rivets with it. The oil stopped spraying but it didn't snap off any of the rivet shanks.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  37. #37
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    What's your line pressure?
    I'm running 90psi at the gun and it now pulls & snaps 'em off just fine... even the 3/16".
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  38. #38
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    What's your line pressure?
    I'm running 90psi at the gun and it now pulls & snaps 'em off just fine... even the 3/16".
    I’m running at 100psi
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  39. #39
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Thanks John. I thought it might work itself out and shot about 10 rivets with it. The oil stopped spraying but it didn't snap off any of the rivet shanks.
    Yea, all the air tools say "oil daily" but it's just a couple drops and typically if used continuously. If you're spraying oil, a little less oil and less often. I don't have the H-F puller, but another brand. Totally normally for it to take a couple cycles to pull and snap the pin. Depends on the rivet, the grip range, what you're riveting, etc. The puller only has so much travel. If that's not enough to snap the pin on the first stroke, push the nose back down to the head of the rivet and pull the trigger again. Almost never have any that take more than the second pull. If on the other hand, you don't think the riveter isn't gripping the pin properly, that's adjustable. At least it is on mine.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  40. #40
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    If on the other hand, you don't think the riveter isn't gripping the pin properly, that's adjustable. At least it is on mine.
    I don't 'think' mine is adjustable, but I'll give it a another look before I bring it back today.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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