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Thread: Halibrand wheel faux knock off's

  1. #1
    #9160 BB767's Avatar
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    Halibrand wheel faux knock off's

    Ok, I HAVE to be missing something, either a part, or an instruction! I am assuming the great wisdom of the forum will find the answer............................
    I am at the point where I want to install the fake spinners on the Halibrand wheels I got from FFR. The center threaded piece fits into the center of the wheel but there is nothing to keep it sticking out of the hub! It just flops around loose and slides back into the center of the wheel. With the wheel off I can hold it and install the nut cover and spinner, but not with it on the car. What am I missing? I could just stuff some rags or something in behind it to keep it forward, but still, nothing keeps it from just spinning around when I try to tighten the spinner. I don't get it. Help please.
    MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands

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    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Some guys have had luck by using a blob of silicone to hold the center stationary in the wheel, others not so much. I drill and tap them for one setscrew per wheel (8-32 if memory serves; it doesn't need much to just keep the center in place and resist turning while the spinner is being installed).



    Good luck,
    Jeff

    spinnersetscrew.JPG

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    Go to McMaster-Carr and order a package of these.
    https://www.mcmaster.com/#99142a630/=1dw69xc

    put a small amount of silicone around the perimeter of the insert and then install with the snap ring.
    The silicone will help keep it from spinning and the snap ring will keep it in place.
    Mike

  4. #4
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    I try to make sure the threaded center stays where I can still get ahold of it while I mount the wheel and then I use a large flat screwdriver to hold it in place while I thread on the spinner

    Once it starts to get tight I pull out on the spinner and tighten it the rest of the way

    Rick
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    Senior Member frankb's Avatar
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    All that said, also be sure you use some sort of anti-seize on the threads. Otherwise you may wind up cutting the spinner off in the future!
    FFR MK4 #8317, 393 Cleveland, Lunati VooDoo solid roller, CHI 3V heads and intake, TKO 600, Std roadster seats, 8.8 3.55 diff, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, Ford "Magnetic Metallic", silver ghost stripe. (Sold 10/16/21)

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    #9160 BB767's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankb View Post
    All that said, also be sure you use some sort of anti-seize on the threads. Otherwise you may wind up cutting the spinner off in the future!
    Yea, good advice, I almost had to cut it off after the test fit!
    MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands

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    #9160 BB767's Avatar
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    Thank you for confirming it is a lousy design and not operator error. They at least could have put a small slot and flange to keep it from spinning! Geeese
    I'll consider the options and make something work, thanks for the tips.
    MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands

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    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Silicone around the flange. Use anti-seize & take them off every once in awhile.
    Kevin
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    Senior Member JIMOCO's Avatar
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    I use a pool noodle cut a bit larger than the space between the wheel hub and the back of the threaded spinner mount. It holds the part in place and is easily crushed when the wheel is tightened.
    Mk4 Roadster, Picked up complete kit 8/22/14. Most FFR options except Wilwood brakes and IRS. First start 11/11/14. Go-kart 3/8/15. 347 Stroker, TKO 500, 3-link/3.27 rear. PA street legal 7/29/15.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JIMOCO View Post
    I use a pool noodle cut a bit larger than the space between the wheel hub and the back of the threaded spinner mount. It holds the part in place and is easily crushed when the wheel is tightened.
    ^ and there is your answer. We do this on every customer car we build using the Halibrand style wheels. And again, don't forget a dab on anti-seize on the threads as you assemble.

  11. #11
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    AND...don't bother with the setscrews in the spinner. They can booger up the aluminum threads in the center and make it difficult to turn the spinner. The spinners are threaded such that when the car is moving forwards they naturally want to tighten not loosen so the jamming setscrews are unnecessary.

    Jeff

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    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    AND...don't bother with the setscrews in the spinner. They can booger up the aluminum threads in the center and make it difficult to turn the spinner. The spinners are threaded such that when the car is moving forwards they naturally want to tighten not loosen so the jamming setscrews are unnecessary.

    Jeff
    I was thinking about that very problem with the set screw into the thread on those spinners. First time I have seen that mentioned. Thanks Jeff. (Same issue with the Koni spring adjuster on the shocks?)

    So.... That must mean the spinner with the left-hand-thread goes on the right side of the car, and the right-hand-thread goes on the left side of the car, eh?
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    I take mine off at least once a month for autocross. Don't want to sling one at a track worker. I used silicon, which works, but doesn't hold up for repeated removal and reinstallations.
    I drilled, threaded and put set screws in the center caps that point into the inside of the rims hub area. (Not my idea, found it here) It works great. The only down side is at new tire time, you have to get in there and undo the set screws. I have a little 1/4 bit ratchet that makes it easy.

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    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.e.427 View Post
    ^ and there is your answer. We do this on every customer car we build using the Halibrand style wheels. And again, don't forget a dab on anti-seize on the threads as you assemble.
    What diameter foam are you using?

    Edit: Got off my lazy butt and measured and just ordered a pack six 35" x 1.5" noodles for $10.00 with free shipping. Some of the items I've purchased for this project just make me laugh.
    Last edited by Papa; 07-27-2018 at 04:53 PM.
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    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    Thank you I really like the pool noodle idea
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

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    Senior Member JIMOCO's Avatar
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    5 Below sells noodles for $1. I think some other dollar stores do as well. I made the post but Mark "The Traveling Builder" told me about noodles.
    Last edited by JIMOCO; 07-27-2018 at 06:47 PM.
    Mk4 Roadster, Picked up complete kit 8/22/14. Most FFR options except Wilwood brakes and IRS. First start 11/11/14. Go-kart 3/8/15. 347 Stroker, TKO 500, 3-link/3.27 rear. PA street legal 7/29/15.

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    Amen to that. I broke 2 of them getting them off. All 4 were badly galled. This must be a common problem, as FFR sent a new set at no cost.
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    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankb View Post
    All that said, also be sure you use some sort of anti-seize on the threads. Otherwise you may wind up cutting the spinner off in the future!
    I put never seize on the threads and regretted it. When you think about it, you're dealing it aluminum on aluminum. The spinners should be hand tight, not pounder on with a rubber mallot. So the set screw will prevent them from backing off. The never seize attracts dirt which actually makes it harder to get the nut off.

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  21. #19
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    I got a little carried away and made a set of these. They lock the center hubs tight from the inside. I also apply fresh anti seize every time I take them off.

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    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDXXVII View Post
    I got a little carried away and made a set of these. They lock the center hubs tight from the inside. I also apply fresh anti seize every time I take them off.
    CDXXVII was kind enough to offer up a spare set of rings he made, and I got even more carried away. I attached the rings to the center hub piece with roll pins, which then are tightened with the set screws in the wheel as an assembly. So far works perfect. Thanks Marcello.
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    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
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    #9160 BB767's Avatar
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    OK, for now I am going with a little silicone, anti-seize, hand tight on the spinners, not using the set screws, with safety wire to keep them from unscrewing. I'll see how this works if I have to remove them very often. Thanks again for all the ideas.
    MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands

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    Quote Originally Posted by JIMOCO View Post
    5 Below sells noodles for $1. I think some other dollar stores do as well. I made the post but Mark "The Traveling Builder" told me about noodles.
    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    What diameter foam are you using?

    Edit: Got off my lazy butt and measured and just ordered a pack six 35" x 1.5" noodles for $10.00 with free shipping. Some of the items I've purchased for this project just make me laugh.
    I get them for $.99 at the 99 cent store. I usually buy 10 at a time. The diameter doesn't really matter, it just needs to push the back of the center cap forward.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JIMOCO View Post
    I use a pool noodle cut a bit larger than the space between the wheel hub and the back of the threaded spinner mount. It holds the part in place and is easily crushed when the wheel is tightened.
    That's using the old noodle ... Way to innovate.
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    Senior Member JIMOCO's Avatar
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    I don't like to brag about the size of my noodle but it is 2 3/8" in diameter.
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  27. #25
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIMOCO View Post
    I don't like to brag about the size of my noodle but it is 2 3/8" in diameter.
    Well, mine is only 1-1/2" in diameter, but I bet it's longer than yours.
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    I was thinking about that very problem with the set screw into the thread on those spinners. First time I have seen that mentioned. Thanks Jeff. (Same issue with the Koni spring adjuster on the shocks?)

    So.... That must mean the spinner with the left-hand-thread goes on the right side of the car, and the right-hand-thread goes on the left side of the car, eh?
    I misread your post, you’re right.
    Box marked left goes on right and right goes on left. I figured it was marked for the side of the car, then had to take off all 4 wheels one more time! Doh!
    Last edited by Murd; 07-29-2018 at 06:47 AM.

  29. #27
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    Box marked left goes on right and right goes on left. I figured it was marked for the side of the car, then had to take off all 4 wheels one more time! Doh!
    Right. The right hand thread goes on the left side of the car, and the left hand thread goes on the right side of the car.

    An easier way to remember (at least for me...) when you tighten the spinner, the top should turn towards the back of the car (drivers side clockwise, passenger side counter clockwise).
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  30. #28
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    Same principle as the pool noodle, just more professional: size 329 o-ring.

    Spinners snap right there.

    064DB334-D41E-427F-A466-CFA032598048.jpeg

  31. #29
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    I screw the center piece to the wheels and safety wire the spinners by making a small kerf cut on one of the tabs that covers a lug. Run the wire under that tab then cross the wire over and both ends 180 degrees around the wheel center then spin the safety wire together and around the wheel center again to a hole in the end of the spinner. Can’t come loose. Tried to wrap the wire through one of the slots in the wheel but there isn’t clearance with the calipers on the front.
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  32. #30
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    All 4 of my spinners are right hand thread from Team III. I use a small toothbrush with a suction cup on the end to hold the center while putting the spinner on. I used a little anti seize and also use the set screw, no problems yet but I've only had the wheels off a few times.

    I guess FFR sells spinners right and left thread.... interesting.

  33. #31
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    Hi all, I purchased a Factory Five MK4. I'm working on swapping out the tires. My front two wheels spun off with no MAJOR issues. The centers seemed to be pretty loose and as I spun the spinner cap off, the center wanted to twist with it.

    First off, the set screws seem to be stripped...any best practices to get the stripped set screw out?

    The rear spinner caps seem to be very seized up on the center. Is there a good way to solve this problem? I'm assuming maybe the previous owner installed them incorrectly. As I'm reading this thread, it appears the previous owner did not secure the center to the rim in a good way that allows the center to move with silicone or even a pool noodle from what I've read.

    Anyone have any suggestions to get the spinner off?

  34. #32
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    Several good methods of addressing the issue. I am surprised someone has not tigged an aluminum hex on the end of the spinner hub, or maybe cut a slot or square hole. If mine ever get stuck, I think I would resort to a slot or 1/2" sq hole.
    Last edited by Railroad; 08-19-2019 at 09:13 AM.
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  35. #33
    Senior Member GTBradley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by totem View Post
    Same principle as the pool noodle, just more professional: size 329 o-ring.

    Spinners snap right there.

    064DB334-D41E-427F-A466-CFA032598048.jpeg
    This seems to be a really good solution. Just to be clear, are you putting the o-ring on the outside between the wheel and the spinner only?
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  36. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTBradley View Post
    This seems to be a really good solution. Just to be clear, are you putting the o-ring on the outside between the wheel and the spinner only?
    Yes, that is correct... it will be between the lug nut cover and the wheel holding the center piece in place.

    I actually used the "o"ring on the outside, keeps the center piece from falling out of the wheel and then use pool noodle that is about 3/4" too long in the back of it and it will compress in and hold everything firm as you tighten/loosen the knock offs.

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  38. #35
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    I put the o-ring on the spinner male thread first. Then, I pull it throught the wheel using the tribar and it snaps there.

    I guess both way should work. The idea it to prevent the spinner to fall behind and to provide enough resistance for tightening.

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    And the rest of the Pool noodle can be used to do body work!! It is a great multi functional tool.........then go cool off in the pool with it.

  40. #37
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    As others have said, DO NOT over tighten!!!!!
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  41. #38
    Senior Member jrcuz's Avatar
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    I've seen CRC dry graphite lube #CRC03094 recommended, also Spinner Eaze from Cobra Valley Chemicals. Haven't tried either. I ordered the "O" rings today from Theoringstore.com., 72 cents ea
    JR
    Last edited by jrcuz; 08-22-2019 at 06:19 PM.
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  42. #39
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    Just wondering who the source is for the silicone "O" rings?
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    Senior Member chmhasy's Avatar
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    I just did a search on mcmaster carr PN 1283N269 a package of 5 for $6.55
    Last edited by chmhasy; 08-20-2019 at 06:23 PM.

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