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Thread: P100DHG Build Questions

  1. #41
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Manual says torque the upper ball joint to 75lbs. Problem is I can’t get my torque wrench up in there. I’m using a 1/2” torque wrench from harbor freight any suggestions?

    7A19578C-B34E-43DB-AE1A-863ACEE06AE1.jpg

    I’ll cover it more in my build thread but you can see I torqued the bottom one to 95lbs and marked the nut so I know it’s been torqued and the spec.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 02-17-2019 at 01:28 PM.

  2. #42
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I wouldn't get too worried about it. Won't be the only nut you have to assemble with a torque rating and a torque wrench won't fit. Since you did the other one, you have a pretty good idea what 95 ft-lbs feels like. Back off a little, align the castle nut with the hole, and lock it down. An alternative would be to put a crows foot on the torque wrench. If put at 90 degrees (e.g. not adding length to the lever) it measures the same. There are formulas for other angles. But that's where I go back to my first suggestion.
    Last edited by edwardb; 02-17-2019 at 04:48 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  3. #43
    Senior Member Clover's Avatar
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    My torque wrench would not fit either. Like edwarb, I just snugged it up to my best guess at 75 and got the castle nut and hole aligned and called it good. With the cotter pin in there, it won't back off and I figured I would be fine. I'll probably check it after 500 miles or so to make sure it is still snug.
    Gen III Type 65 Coupe Delivered 6/26/2018

  4. #44
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Got it thanks! Yeah 95lbs nearly broke my arm in that position holding the spindle with a wrench on one side and my foot on the other. I was contortionist!

  5. #45
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Okay this upper ball joint is just screwing with me. The castle nut needs a spacer to line up with the cotter pin. What do we think about this? Right now i installed it without a spacer. I’d rather redo it than do it wrong. Manual says nothings about a spacer but then I’ve learned here that the manual isn’t always accurate.

    B2A72038-FDC7-48DD-B10B-FB83EE9DBA17.jpg

  6. #46
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Use a hardened washer between the spindle and nut.

    Jeff

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  8. #47
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Use a hardened washer between the spindle and nut.

    Jeff
    Beat me to it. I've had to do the same thing.

    Last edited by edwardb; 02-18-2019 at 06:52 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  10. #48
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Okay this is good stuff. This is all going in my build thread hopefully this helps someone.

  11. #49
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Well okay got all that other stuff sorted out. Driver side is on the way to complete but I hit a snag. Literally. The passenger side hub won’t go on the spindle. The driver side went on without an taps but the passenger side went about a 1/2” on and won’t go any further. A light tap does nothing. Miraculously after 30 min of coherencing I got it off looks unharmed and the spindle looks fine. Now what....

    863DA2F8-12F5-4BF8-82DD-2A58ED59EF69.jpg

    A58A2ED6-06D0-461F-B505-A358848DBD44.jpg

  12. #50
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    Well okay got all that other stuff sorted out. Driver side is on the way to complete but I hit a snag. Literally. The passenger side hub won’t go on the spindle. The driver side went on without an taps but the passenger side went about a 1/2” on and won’t go any further. A light tap does nothing. Miraculously after 30 min of coherencing I got it off looks unharmed and the spindle looks fine. Now what....
    Hasn't happened to me, but others have reported similar. Take a strip of emery cloth and polish all around the spindle. That should do it. It may slide on with some resistance. But in my experience shouldn't require extreme force.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  14. #51
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Hasn't happened to me, but others have reported similar. Take a strip of emery cloth and polish all around the spindle. That should do it. It may slide on with some resistance. But in my experience shouldn't require extreme force.
    Paul I know I’ve said it in the past but I’ll say it again. THANK YOU! You’re the best I appreciate your help. I’ll grab some tomorrow and give it a try in the evening

  15. #52
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Like 75% okay

    So I am mounting the IRS differential. I’ve got the two rear bolts in and the front passenger bolt in. The front driver side bolt is not lining up. It’s 1mm off to one side. Jacking it up gets me to that point but after that the whole car begins to rise up. I’m puzzled 1mm makes a whole lot of difference... now what? I tried removing the rear driver side bolt, so it would hinge on the passenger side and lining up the front bolt and it just placed both out of alignment. So I place the rear bolt back and I’m 75% complete and 25% stuck. I don’t want to make any holes bigger the other bolts went in very easily

    BTW how can something be so frustrating and so fun at the same time? It’s nice to have some hurdles though cause otherwise it’s would just be too easy.

    DA7773A4-330E-492A-A618-EA8DAFE914BB.jpg
    Last edited by P100DHG; 02-24-2019 at 03:42 PM.

  16. #53
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Installing that IRS diff has lots of interesting discussions and results. I had one of the very first of the new IRS design with my 20th Anniversary Roadster. I really fought with it but finally got it. My Coupe build was a little easier (maybe it was just the experience) but many have reported they go in with little/no issue. So whether the diff is changed from Ford, or Factory Five adjusted things a little, seems better than it was. Yours actually is pretty close and shouldn't be too hard to close out. I'll share what worked for me. First, get the two rear ones threaded in but not tight. Since the rear cover is threaded, you want those in place first. Then install the front bolts. I ended up making some tapered pins by grinding some bolts on my stationery disk sander. They helped to line things up and made the assembly go together pretty easily. I've recommended the same thing a number of times, and other builds have reported this did the trick. There are other methods, but this worked for me. Details and pictures in my build thread here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post209902. Good luck.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  17. #54
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    Yea the IRS system took a little filing, grinding and messing around. Have you tried everything loose and putting the bolts in a different order yet? By loose I mean just through the first tab not threaded in yet.
    You will likely have to open up some of the tabs to get the "A" arms in as well, I used threaded rod, washers and nuts to open them up.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  18. #55
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    just hearing from you guys, "this is normal" or "other people have this issue" has been great because sometimes when your working on you own it's can feel like you've gotta be the first. I recruited my father-in-law and we used the roll bar and wrapped a strap around the ear and ratcheted it up and hammed it the bolt home. It was hard to be in two places at once so the extra set of hands was great!. Everything is in and torqued down. SUCCESS!

  19. #56
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    success always feels good.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  20. #57
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    641AF336-BE0F-4503-A928-BDBAA9F7AB71.jpegHey, I saw your post for the first time today. I have a gen 1 type 65. I put a stroked 351W in mine too. (With a high rise) It was a pain to make it fit under the hood, but I did it. Did a lot of cutting on my air cleaner.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Seanjet; 02-27-2019 at 09:52 PM.

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  22. #58
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    1 out of 6 is still better than none

    I guess 1 out of 6 is better than none but my drive shaft adapter is off... what’s the trick here? I tried installing it against the center section, I tried installing it at a screws length (can’t think of another way to say it...) doesn’t align.

    E2CD516C-4D48-48F2-9FDB-40798D2C82EB.jpg

    Any suggestions would be great

  23. #59
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    I guess 1 out of 6 is better than none but my drive shaft adapter is off... what’s the trick here? I tried installing it against the center section, I tried installing it at a screws length (can’t think of another way to say it...) doesn’t align.

    E2CD516C-4D48-48F2-9FDB-40798D2C82EB.jpg

    Any suggestions would be great
    Looks like you have the wrong adapter. There are differences depending on your particular center section. An unfortunately common problem. Call Factory Five. They should fix you up.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  25. #60
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    and also check the drive shaft is correct. There are several bolt patterns, lengths and splines for different combinations of drivetrain. Also the lengths of the bolts that attach the drive shaft to the adaptor plate depend on if you have a drive shaft with a steel or aluminum flange
    I had 3 or 4 before I got the correct one, including one that had the wong part number on it.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  26. #61
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Balance Bar Adjustment & Accelerator pedal

    Okay I'm stumped. The two master cylinders are threaded equally into both clevis' after cutting 5/8" off each per the instructions. Here is where things sit.

    NO PEDAL PRESSURE
    IMG_2240.jpg

    MODERATE PEDAL PRESSURE
    IMG_2238.jpg


    When I apply the brake the balance bar heavily favors the right master cylinder. It is only till the pedal is more than halfway depressed that it starts to depress the left master cylinder. My questions are:

    1. By threading in one master cylinder to the clevis and by threading one out what does this do?
    1a. I am having a hard time getting my fingers in to adjust it any special ideas?

    2. The gold threaded rod/ balance bar whats the trick to adjusting that so the rods are perfectly aligned? Mine are really close but 1mm will get it dialed in perfectly

    3. My over all question is how do I get the system to apply the correct amount of pressure to both master cylinders?

    4. Is the factory five diagram correct showing, no pressure, moderate pressure and heavy pressure accurate?


    Any pictures would be super helpful as I am a very visual person. Anyway thanks again guys!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by P100DHG; 03-28-2019 at 12:15 AM.

  27. #62
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Assemble it like the instructions show, with the balance bar pivot centered, the pushrods at equal length, and the proper spacing on each side. Then wait until you have fluid in the system and bled. Without pressure in the system what you're seeing isn't very meaningful.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  29. #63
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    To grease the rear zerk fitting on the front lower control arm do you guys recommend a right angle adapter? I can’t get my grease gun in there?

  30. #64
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    I swapped the straight zerk fittings to 90 deg fittings.

  31. #65
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuftster View Post
    I swapped the straight zerk fittings to 90 deg fittings.
    I bought 1/4 28 zerk fitting from harbor freight. They seem too small. Do you know if it's metric?
    Last edited by P100DHG; 04-04-2019 at 08:51 AM.

  32. #66
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    Sorry, I can't remember. I bought an assortment from the local parts store as I didn't know either and just returned what I didn't use. I know I had bought both metric and standard, just not sure which I ended up using.

  33. #67
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Storing the body....

    The body seems ridged but I want to avoid any warping. My plan was to place it on the rockers on a wood dolly. Do I need to build an A frame and support it from the roof?

    Need help

  34. #68
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    Storing the body....

    The body seems ridged but I want to avoid any warping. My plan was to place it on the rockers on a wood dolly. Do I need to build an A frame and support it from the roof?

    Need help
    I stored mine for about a year sitting only on the outer rockers plus some 2x4's under the rear to hold it flat. Was in my covered trailer outside most of the time, then inside the garage for a few weeks before installing. It's installed on the chassis now and seems fine. It had only marginally less support than it does once finished and installed. The roof just floats on the finished car, so seems it should handle being stored that way.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  36. #69
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    I am plumbing my fuel system and brake system. I am starting with my fuel system. My question is the lines that came with the kit at 5/16" supply and 1/4" return. Do I need a 3/8" supply for fuel injection and larger return 5/16" for return

  37. #70
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    You'll get a bunch of opinions on this one. But there's a lot more to the question IMO. First, engine. You mentioned Roush 427, then Coyote, but your sig line still says Roush 427. Probably 100 HP difference if you're talking Gen 2 Coyote. Closer if a Gen 3. But my main advice is look at the entire fuel system, not just the supply and return lines. Everything should be compatible. Starting with the engine and what HP you are supporting, the intended use for the car (street vs. track), then what fuel pump requirements (typically stated as gallons or liters per hour at a specific PSI), then use lines and a fuel pump hanger (important) that matches. I will add that if you're installing a Gen 2 Coyote with a 190L/hr pump, the 5/16 supply and 1/4 quarter return will work. Many have used them. But IMO a little on the marginal side. I've chosen to go bigger on my builds. Properly installed larger lines (e.g. with matching/compatible parts) don't hurt anything and shouldn't ever be a limiter. Too small, on the other hand, is not easily overcome. Again, that's my take. There will be others.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  38. #71
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    You'll get a bunch of opinions on this one. But there's a lot more to the question IMO. First, engine. You mentioned Roush 427, then Coyote, but your sig line still says Roush 427. Probably 100 HP difference if you're talking Gen 2 Coyote. Closer if a Gen 3. But my main advice is look at the entire fuel system, not just the supply and return lines. Everything should be compatible. Starting with the engine and what HP you are supporting, the intended use for the car (street vs. track), then what fuel pump requirements (typically stated as gallons or liters per hour at a specific PSI), then use lines and a fuel pump hanger (important) that matches. I will add that if you're installing a Gen 2 Coyote with a 190L/hr pump, the 5/16 supply and 1/4 quarter return will work. Many have used them. But IMO a little on the marginal side. I've chosen to go bigger on my builds. Properly installed larger lines (e.g. with matching/compatible parts) don't hurt anything and shouldn't ever be a limiter. Too small, on the other hand, is not easily overcome. Again, that's my take. There will be others.
    Your post tipped me over the edge from trying to make the supplied parts work to just doing it the “right” way. I put right in quotes because it’s just my idea of what is right but it should turn out pretty slick. Thanks for the help.

    Side note I dumped the coyote because my brother ruined it for with one comment so I went with the Roush small block Ford engine which was what I wanted when I ordered the car but got scared by the task of configuring it but that issue got solved with hours and hour of research. (Hopefully it fits and clears the hood but I’m feeling positive about it)
    Last edited by P100DHG; 08-09-2019 at 12:24 AM.

  39. #72
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Does the brake fluid reservoir need to be higher than the master cylinders?

  40. #73
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    Does the brake fluid reservoir need to be higher than the master cylinders?
    Interesting question especially based on the directions in the manual that say "Keep the reservoir high enough so that the lid is higher than master cylinder." I trust this would work, but I prefer to have the outlets of the reservoir(s) the same height or slightly above the inlets to the master cylinders. Plenty of room under the Coupe cowl to position the reservoir(s) that way.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  41. #74
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    "I trust this would work, but I prefer to have the outlets of the reservoir(s) the same height or slightly above the inlets to the master cylinders. Plenty of room under the Coupe cowl to position the reservoir(s) that way.
    I interpreted the manual very literally and went just slightly above. What I meant to ask is any particular recommendation on height so thank you. Poorly worded question. Thanks for the advice.

  42. #75
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Having a memory lapse. I can’t remember how I installed my master cylinders. How do I identify which is 3/4 and which is 5/8? Which of the two goes to the front brakes and which to the back.? This is what I get for starting and stopping (not exactly ideal but necessary in my case). Can’t remember... help! Thanks

  43. #76
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    You should be able to see the size marked in the side of the master cylinders. You may want to take a picture of the side of each in order to see the markings if you already have them mounted. If I remember right, you can't get a good look at the markings from above.

  44. #77
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    You should see the markings cast on the side of the master cylinders. .75 on one and .625 on the other. But I've also heard Factory Five is using the same (.75) on the front and back on more recently shipped kits. Maybe yours aren't different. If they are, the smaller .625 is the rear one.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-01-2019 at 12:08 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  46. #78
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Jul 2018
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    Thanks guys. The marking is in the casting on the passenger side. Impossible to see without a mirror. But I just pressed my finger into it and it embossed the digits into my finger. Success! Thank you!

  47. #79
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    I’ve got a couple nights of work to finish drilling my under-hood panels and make some new ones but I like to be forward thinking. My next options after my panels are finished and mounted are electrical or drop the engine in. I don’t know where the starter will land, how much cable length I’ll need for other stuff, so I’m not sure we’re to go with this. I also want to relocate my battery to the rear of the car. What do you guys think? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

  48. #80
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Lake Orion, Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    I also want to relocate my battery to the rear of the car. What do you guys think? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
    Why? The factory front location is basically free space. From there the cable runs are short. Given the frame design, like the fuel and brake lines, if in the back the battery cable would have to come through the transmission tunnel which is already a bit congested. Not sure where you'd locate it in the back anyway. And FWIW, one of the very common mods for the Roadster is moving the battery to the front.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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