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Thread: P100DHG Build Questions

  1. #1
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    P100DHG Build Questions

    Well I haven't made if far and I'm already stuck. Here is my configuration.

    Daytona Coupe Kit $21,900.00
    60362 Powder Coated Chassis $499.00
    60359 Platnium Gauges $0.00
    13083 Tansmission Mount Package 351W $0.00
    16445 Ceramic Coated Headers $850.00
    60175 driveshaft $0.00
    12070 Body with cutouts $149.00
    15478 Vintage Low Back Vinyl $0.00
    16138 Manual Vs Power steering rack $199.00
    12066 Tublar Front lower control arm $0.00
    60737 IRS Kit $2,499.00
    12126 Rear End $1,400.00
    60377 A/C - Heater Defroster $1,550.00
    60364 Interior precut carpet $275.00
    60371 Side Windows $549.00
    15368 Front Willwood Brakes $1,415.00
    15986 Rear Wilwood Brakes $1,715.00
    16320 Replica Wheels & Tires $2,327.00
    60372 Aero Vents $125.00
    16116 Front Sway bar $240.00
    15998 rear sway bar $240.00


    Okay so here is my sticking point

    I want to put in a 351W 427 Roush SR with an EFI kit. Roush says it can all be done and Mark sent me my price sheet they will do it for me and drop ship me my fully custom engine turn key ready, with clutch mounted, bell housing and TKO 600 transmission. 510 hp of raw power. Mark from Roush who does this all day was really excited about the configuration. Anyway FFR is like eeeeeehhhhh.... Might not fit, make sure it has a dual plane intake. So Mark from Roush is like no problem, even better plus your EFI kit will lower the air cleaner and you'll be good to go. These pit in Superperformance cars all day lone. So.... I go to order my kit and FFR today says,"eeeeehhhhh might not fit". Everything mentioned above shipped is $22,000. My concern is if my $22,000 drive package doesn't fit I'm going to lose my mind... I asked FFR for dimensions they said they couldn't provide any... Any thoughts?
    Last edited by P100DHG; 02-17-2019 at 01:23 PM.

  2. #2

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    Ray's Avatar
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    I see that you are up in the San Francisco Bay area. There is a great painter/body man in Yuba/Sutter---Ken Pike aka "StreetRod Painter. If your engine is too tall, he'd be able to put a bubble in the hood to accommodate the height. And, it would look KILLER!

    Did FFR say the engine would be too tall, too wide or? There are ways to make things fit....

    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
    -- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"

    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue

  3. #3
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    I'm actually down in the LA area, Burbank to be specific. I don't want to modify the body. I'd rather just get the engine right. A good paint recommendation would be valuable though. I do have a car trailer I could bring it up north if need be. Thanks!

  4. #4

    Super Moderator
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    Oh, in that case you’ll probably want Jeff “Batman” Miller in Temecula.

    What’s the trouble with the engine? Tall/wide?

    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
    -- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"

    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue

  5. #5
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    If you are willing to spend the money on the engine I would get it...worst case you end up changing either the air leaner or the intake manifold...or like others said a "slight" mod to the hood while you are in body work...
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

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  6. #6
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    It might be too tall. Does anyone have the dimensions from the mount to the top of the hood. The concern is will the air cleaner clear. Roush puts on a fairly low profile air cleaner.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 07-31-2018 at 09:43 AM.

  7. #7
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Okay here is another question:

    Where should I expect my shift to sit if I use a TKO600? Any pictures someone can post?

  8. #8
    Senior Member stack's Avatar
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    switch to stack injection. If the coyote fits i think the 351 has to fit

    stack
    FFR MKI Roadster FFR2202K Built in 2000 sold
    FFR Hot Rod #39 under construction

  9. #9
    Senior Member turbonut48's Avatar
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    Mine has a 351 based 418. I also have Edelbrock Efi. It looks like a carb.
    Its tall. My builder put a hood bump on mine with a rear facing opening. I like it.
    Tom H

  10. #10
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    I’ve changed my build... I am going to a coyote. Here is my question. Will the stock oil pan work in a coupe build? I found a mustang donor engine gen 2. What needs to be changed if anything to make it work?
    Last edited by P100DHG; 08-12-2018 at 09:12 PM.

  11. #11
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    I’ve changed my build... I am going to a coyote. Here is my question. Will the stock oil pan work in a coupe build? I found a mustang donor engine gen 2. What needs to be changed if anything to make it work?
    You will need a low profile oil pan. Moroso has a nice one #20570. You will also need the correct oil pickup for the Coyote, #24570. Summit, Jegs, occasionally even Amazon all carry them.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 12/15/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

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  13. #12
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Hydronic clutch vs cable. What the difference? Looks like the kit comes with a cable but from my understanding cables stretch will need to be adjusted etc. someone help me out here.

  14. #13
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    Hydronic clutch vs cable. What the difference? Looks like the kit comes with a cable but from my understanding cables stretch will need to be adjusted etc. someone help me out here.
    The Wilwood pedal box is designed for a hydraulic clutch. The kit includes a Factory Five designed and fabricated modification that converts it to a cable drive setup. Initial design wasn't great, but this one now around for several years works fine. If you can get a smooth route to the clutch arm under the car and stay away from heat (#1 killer of clutch cables) the cable setup works fine. Some question about the quality of the kit provided clutch cable. A genuine Ford or Ford Performance replacement is recommended. With the right cable and setup, cable stretch isn't typically an issue. Clutches need to be adjusted occasionally as the clutch wears. But that's normal maintenance.

    Going hydraulic is an easy change because of the already mentioned Wilwood pedal box. Many install a kit from Mike Forte that uses an external slave cylinder pushing on the stock clutch arm. I have a couple times. He has mounts for various transmissions. It works well and (obviously) deletes the clutch cable, cable routing, etc. I "think" it's a little smoother and perhaps less effort. But to be honest I haven't tried both on the same build to get a true before and after test. Pedal effort is also a function of which clutch you use, regardless of cable or hydraulic. Not to go too far off topic, but for my Coupe build I'm trying a Tilton HRB (Hydraulic Release Bearing). Still the same master cylinder in the footbox, but then directly to the release bearing against the clutch. Pretty common in DD's, including the current Mustang. Not as common in our builds. Some concerns about reliability and how much has to be torn down in case of an issue. But I'm going for it. With fewer parts, easier installation plus I'm hoping to see a real reduction in pedal effort. Plus it's a bit cheaper. We'll see.
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-26-2018 at 05:44 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  15. #14
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    okay here is another one.

    One of the things I like the least about this car is the interior. I am going to put my own spin on it. At first I planned on doing the carpet kit but now I am thinking about no carpet.... YIKES! I am thinking button down/ snap down floor mats. I plan to powder coat all the panels silver, including the dash and doing a brown leather interior. Should compliment the blue car. One concern I am worried about is sound and heat insulation. Since I want raw, painted panels this means dynamat is out. I am looking at a product called Lizard Skin. It appears this is applied to the interior of the car. I need to apply it to the underside of each panel. The prep work is going to be daunting. Following their directions it looks like I put down the sound then the heat product. Any thoughts on that outside facing application?

    Also would you powder coat before drilling holes for rivets or powder coating after all the holes are drilled (this is what I am thinking)?

  16. #15
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    okay here is another one.

    One of the things I like the least about this car is the interior. I am going to put my own spin on it. At first I planned on doing the carpet kit but now I am thinking about no carpet.... YIKES! I am thinking button down/ snap down floor mats. I plan to powder coat all the panels silver, including the dash and doing a brown leather interior. Should compliment the blue car. One concern I am worried about is sound and heat insulation. Since I want raw, painted panels this means dynamat is out. I am looking at a product called Lizard Skin. It appears this is applied to the interior of the car. I need to apply it to the underside of each panel. The prep work is going to be daunting. Following their directions it looks like I put down the sound then the heat product. Any thoughts on that outside facing application?

    Also would you powder coat before drilling holes for rivets or powder coating after all the holes are drilled (this is what I am thinking)?
    Easy one first. I think you'll find it mostly unanimous from all builders, including me, to drill the panels and chassis first. Then finish the panels using your intended method (powder coat or whatever), then bond and rivet in place.

    Regarding Lizard Skin, I'm very familiar with it. I've used it on all my builds. Coincidentally, I've spent the last couple days off and on masking and prepping my Coupe build for Lizard Skin spray. Planning to do the sound spray tomorrow and the heat spray the next day. My opinion, and I'm certain you'll find others that don't agree including Lizard Skin's website, is that Lizard Skin is best applied on inside surfaces. And typically under interior materials like carpet. That's how I've always used it, and based on my experience and observation, is how it's best used. It's a water based product, and while surprisingly durable, it's not rock hard like a solvent or catalyzed type product. Plus it's a little rough and porous. IMO would hard to keep clean and easy to damage. But that's just my opinion, so take it for that. They do sell a top coat (https://www.lizardskin.com/topcoat.html) that I've used. It's OK and certainly better than leaving the Lizard Skin unfinished. But it's basically a thin and shiny version of many spray-on undercoats.
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-26-2018 at 08:09 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  17. #16
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Let’s talk tools.

    Do I need a brake line bender? how about a double flare tool? Anyone recommend certain ones or have a list of tools that are must haves?
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  18. #17
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    Let’s talk tools.

    Do I need a brake line bender? how about a double flare tool? Anyone recommend certain ones or have a list of tools that are must haves?
    Since no one else responded (tried to give you a break...) I'll give my two cents worth. Brake lines depend on your build plan. The kit comes with multiple sections of steel brake lines and several unions. The brake lines bend easily by hand, curves can be bent around sockets, that sort of thing. It you're not super picky about routing, a little extra here and there, etc. you can do the whole job using the supplied tubing and without any new flares. At the other end of the spectrum would be rigid stainless, few/no unions, etc. Then you need bending tools, a decent flaring tool like this one https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ring-tool.html, etc. Lots of guys like NiCopp brake line if you want to make your own and don't want to deal with something like stainless. Easy to flare with less elaborate flaring tools. But I'm still a big fan of the Eastwood tool. Ditto the same discussion for fuel lines. Similar decisions to make there, once you settle on the right size for your build. The kit comes with 5/16-inch supply and 1/4-inch return (if needed).

    There's a tool list in the build manual. How much more than that you might need again depends on you, e.g. what if any mods you do, your personal build choices, etc.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  19. #18
    slpro1207's Avatar
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    If you decide to go the Eastwood flaring tool, I have one you can borrow. We aren’t to far apart.
    MK4 delivered 2/24/2017. Complete kit #9023,IRS, Power Steering, Leather, heater, 17" wheels, sway bar ft & rr, tremec 600 and Gordon Levy Racing SBF 427. First start and go kart 8/19/2017. Graduated 1/15/2018
    MK4 #9230 complete kit delivered 1/27/2018. IRS, PS, leather, Tremic 600, SBF 427. Graduation 10/15/2018
    MK3 #5253 donor bought unfinished. SBF 331, T5 Trans.

  20. #19
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Thank you so much!!! We are pretty close and it would be great to meet, I’ll keep it in mind thank you! I could probably bring the lines cut to length and do the final flares at your place if needed. I appreciate it!
    Last edited by P100DHG; 09-04-2018 at 01:41 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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    slpro1207's Avatar
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    No worries. I would come your way. Would love to see your build. Thinking my next might be a 65 coupe.
    MK4 delivered 2/24/2017. Complete kit #9023,IRS, Power Steering, Leather, heater, 17" wheels, sway bar ft & rr, tremec 600 and Gordon Levy Racing SBF 427. First start and go kart 8/19/2017. Graduated 1/15/2018
    MK4 #9230 complete kit delivered 1/27/2018. IRS, PS, leather, Tremic 600, SBF 427. Graduation 10/15/2018
    MK3 #5253 donor bought unfinished. SBF 331, T5 Trans.

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  23. #21
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Sounds good. Will send you a PM with my info
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  24. #22
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    Gosh, sorry you decided to go the Coyote route. But I completely understand your decision. Guess I just love the old school looks of pushrod motors. However for what’s it worth my 427 Dart motor based on 351w architecture shipped from Fordstrokers today. I’ve got a Hilborn 8 stack efi system sitting on the bench that I’m mounting to it. I had the Hilborn system mounted on a 408 stroked 351w in my roadster and it looked and ran incredibly well. The new motor and Hilborn system is going one way or another into my Gen 3 Coupe which is moving along quite nicely. We test fit a 5.0 SBF awhile back in the coupe and there appeared to be lots of room for the 351w and Hilborn. I did encounter a minor problem in the roadster however. While lots of guys seem happy running velocity stacks only, or perhaps stacks with the little mesh screens, I just couldnt see taking the risk of sucking small rocks into my $20k motor. So I had custom K&N cone filters made. Doesn’t look quite as sexy but seemed like a good compromise.

    So for anyone considering this combo, let me know if you want to see some photos. Should have something to report in a couple of weeks.

  25. #23
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    So I was well underway on my acquisition of seats until my brother through giant wrench into my plans. From Edwardb's thread I could tell that the Corbeau FX1 Pro seats would fit. I maybe answering my own question here and the answer maybe just to wait till I get my car but why not put it to the community. The Corbeau FX1 Pro seats are not FIA certified. One of the components behind FIA certification if that the fabric be fire retardant. Since I am reupholstering them that rating is lost however the other aspect is the crash testing those seats are put through. Now I would hate to crash my car but someone crashing into me is just something I can't avoid in many cases and my brothers point is that a car without modern safety systems like airbags should at minimum have an FIA rated seat for crash protection. This brings me to the Sparco EVO II or the Braum Falcon seat (I would prefer its cheaper but they have limited quantities). The price is so much higher for an FIA rated seat and really I don't want to spend that much but I also don't want to be a cripple. Does anyone have the ability to carefully measure out the seating area. Factory five said it has so many angles that I should wait till I get the car, order the seats and see if they fit... That seems logical but now instead of making steady progress toward acquiring the necessary items for my car before it gets here, I have to postpone this item which isn't the end of the world by any means. Anyway, thoughts anyone? Measurements maybe (I know this is a lot of ask)?
    Last edited by P100DHG; 09-11-2018 at 09:05 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  26. #24
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I agree with the advice you received from Factory Five. There are multiple complex angles and measurements in the cockpit seating area including the roll bar cage which also comes into play. It would be nearly impossible to measure and reconstruct in a way that would help you decide about seat fitment. The Corbeau Sportline Evolution X seats I chose just barely fit. In fact they don't go all the way to the back of the cockpit wall like some others might. But for my height (5'-10") the space available is fine. You could use the dimensions Corbeau has on their website to compare to other seats. Maybe you've already done that. But you'll be able to check/measure the available space immediately upon receiving your kit. The body and sheet metal are already installed for shipping. You will have plenty of time to measure, decide, and order seats and not hold up your build.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-11-2018 at 05:24 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  27. #25
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick1916 View Post
    So for anyone considering this combo, let me know if you want to see some photos. Should have something to report in a couple of weeks.
    Yes, please. Post away. Love to see photos of those stacks. Start a separate thread since the original poster has chosen the Coyote.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  28. #26
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    I would like to see this combo as well! Sounds awesome. But here is the article I read about them

    https://jalopnik.com/what-are-veloci...our-1792235442

    Counter argument

    http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...rod/prd400.htm
    Last edited by P100DHG; 09-15-2018 at 01:33 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  29. #27
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Suspension height

    Race height or street height?

    After inventory it’s pretth much the first decision to make.

    I plan to track the car but I would like to drive over a speed bump without bottoming out
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  30. #28
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    What doesn’t the kit come with

    I spoke to Dan at factory five and asked him if thenkit came with clecos answer was no. Then I was looking at parts on breeze automotive. Does it come with rivets? What else do I need to get in preparation?
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  31. #29
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    No clecos, as Dan said. Yes, the kit comes with rivets. An assortment of 1/8 and 3/16 inch. Majority of the rivets in the build are 1/8 inch. They're all plain aluminum. Fine for general use. Some end up buying color rivets to match or contrast with the panels. If you don't have them already, you'll want to get some drill bits for riveting. #30 are slightly oversize for the 1/8 inch rivets, #10 for the 3/16 inch rivets. You'll likely break or dull some as you go. Experiences and opinions vary on how many to buy. I've gone through 5-6 of the smaller and maybe 1-2 of the larger for my builds.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-25-2018 at 09:38 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  32. #30
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Okay good to know because drill bits were on my amazon hit list. I was going to go straight 1/8 and 3/16 but slightly over sized is a good idea

    Merry Christmas thanks as always Paul
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  33. #31
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    With regard to installing and drilling the panels

    Whats the trick to getting the holes drilled, centered and evenly spaced along the tubing? In my head I can only imagine buying a dozen yard sticks, cutting them to various sizes, using it as a straight edge and marking out the spaces or making a jig from them....

    I am thinking about what would make this easiest. steady and accurate is the name of the game. I don't mind measuring it out but maybe someone has come up with a good trick or jig
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  34. #32
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    With regard to installing and drilling the panels

    Whats the trick to getting the holes drilled, centered and evenly spaced along the tubing? In my head I can only imagine buying a dozen yard sticks, cutting them to various sizes, using it as a straight edge and marking out the spaces or making a jig from them....

    I am thinking about what would make this easiest. steady and accurate is the name of the game. I don't mind measuring it out but maybe someone has come up with a good trick or jig
    With the part in position, trace around the frame locations, overlaps, whatever on the back side of the piece. That gives you the possible locations for rivets. Then on a centerline between the lines, mark for the rivet locations. The kit comes with a spacing tool. Like a ruler with a bunch of holes. FF recommends 3-inch spacing when into frame members. 2-inch spacing for panel-to-panel. I follow those guidelines (mostly...) adjusting where needed. Pay close attention that locations will be accessible for drilling and riveting. Once the holes are drilled in the sheet metal, then put it back into position and drill through into the frame or overlapping piece. Adding clecos as you drill. A bunch of the rivets don't show once your done so it's not as critical (e.g. cockpit floor) but a bunch do. Like all the exposed sheet metal in the engine compartment. Here being neat, even, and straight pays off IMO. But it's not that hard.

    There are other methods beyond the FF spacing tool. Calculator and ruler work when you want to do something different than 2 or 3 inch spacing. I do that occasionally. I personally haven't used it, but I've seen guys post about a tool like this one: https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...-spacing-tool/. I've also seen where guys have put marks on a piece of elastic and then use as a guide, stretching as needed to get the holes evenly spaced. Haven't tried that either.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-28-2018 at 06:38 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  35. #33
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    With the part in position, trace around the frame locations, overlaps, whatever on the back side of the piece. That gives you the possible locations for rivets. Then on a centerline between the lines, mark for the rivet locations. The kit comes with a spacing tool. Like a ruler with a bunch of holes. FF recommends 3-inch spacing when into frame members. 2-inch spacing for panel-to-panel. I follow those guidelines (mostly...) adjusting where needed. Pay close attention that locations will be accessible for drilling and riveting. Once the holes are drilled in the sheet metal, then put it back into position and drill through into the frame or overlapping piece. Adding clecos as you drill. A bunch of the rivets don't show once your done so it's not as critical (e.g. cockpit floor) but a bunch do. Like all the exposed sheet metal in the engine compartment. Here being neat, even, and straight pays off IMO. But it's not that hard.

    There are other methods beyond the FF spacing tool. Calculator and ruler work when you want to do something different than 2 or 3 inch spacing. I do that occasionally. I personally haven't used it, but I've seen guys post about a tool like this one: https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...-spacing-tool/. I've also seen where guys have put marks on a piece of elastic and then use as a guide, stretching as needed to get the holes evenly spaced. Haven't tried that either.
    That rivet fan tool is just amazing. Great advice. I can visualize it. One less thing to think about! Thank you Paul!
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  36. #34
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    I need to build something similar to Jeff's rolling car cart does anyone know what the dimensions are for the coupe's chassis?

    http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...6/100_1857.jpg
    Last edited by P100DHG; 12-29-2018 at 07:00 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  37. #35
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    I need to build something similar to Jeff's rolling car cart does anyone know what the dimensions are for the coupe's chassis?

    http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...6/100_1857.jpg
    I actually have a Gen3 Coupe chassis sitting on it right now. The dolly measures 60" long and 38" wide and needed no modifications to accommodate the Coupe chassis.

    Jeff

  38. #36
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    I actually have a Gen3 Coupe chassis sitting on it right now. The dolly measures 60" long and 38" wide and needed no modifications to accommodate the Coupe chassis.

    Jeff
    what is the measurement from center to center of the two indentations where the frame sits?

    Thanks Jeff for the help


    Another question for the community.

    The supplied brake reservoir I believe is a single reservoir and uses a T between the 2 master cylinders. Am I safer buying a dual reservoir such as this? Is my conclusion correct that this would make the front and rear brake systems truly independent of one another or am I missing something?

    https://www.polyperformance.com/cnc-...IaAmRNEALw_wcB
    Last edited by P100DHG; 12-29-2018 at 10:35 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  39. #37
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    what is the measurement from center to center of the two indentations where the frame sits?

    Thanks Jeff for the help


    Another question for the community.

    The supplied brake reservoir I believe is a single reservoir and uses a T between the 2 master cylinders. Am I safer buying a dual reservoir such as this? Is my conclusion correct that this would make the front and rear brake systems truly independent of one another or am I missing something?

    https://www.polyperformance.com/cnc-...IaAmRNEALw_wcB
    The half round indentations in the chassis dolly are for the 4" round tubes used on the roadster and previous generation Coupes and don't come into play with the flat bottom Gen3. The chassis members simply sit on the rubber lined flat portions of the dolly and straddle the cutouts.

    RE: Single vs. double brake reservoir. Jim Schenck says that the capacity of the single is sufficient to allow for multiple (3?, 4?, maybe more?) brake applications even if one end was completely blown out. Some guys feel better changing to true dual separate reservoirs like the CNC you linked.

    Jeff

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  41. #38
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Do the hubs need to be greased before placing them on the spindles? I don't see anything about that in the directions I am referencing pages 75-80 in the manual for front spindle to hub attachment and 135 for rear hub
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  42. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    Do the hubs need to be greased before placing them on the spindles? I don't see anything about that in the directions I am referencing pages 75-80 in the manual for front spindle to hub attachment and 135 for rear hub
    No. A light cover to prevent rust might be OK but not for lubrication.

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  44. #40
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    The bearings for both the front spindles hubs and the IRS hubs are lifetime factory lubed. All are installed as delivered out of the box.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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