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Thread: Miller Time MK4

  1. #41
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Wow, beautiful engine! But I'm not sure you have enough HP , LOL!
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

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  3. #42
    RR20AC's Avatar
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    I guess we have a couple of things in common. SRT does really haul. And forte’s 427 is a very good motor. Have fun with the build. It goes by fast if you stay with it.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Cobra Colorist. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017, 3000 mile inspection on 1/14/19.

  4. #43

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    b6880085688540278813eb24dfc56374 (1).jpg

    Don't know the HP equivalent, but quite a ride last week.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  5. #44

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    Just received the hydraulic master and hose for my Forte supplied clutch. No instructions but it looks like I will need to optimize the hose run between the master and slave. Anyone have pictures of how they did it. Thanks.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  6. #45
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Miller7448,

    I don't know how much mechanical knowledge you have but if you are a newbie like me this thread I started might help.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-advice-please
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  7. #46

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    Decided to move the batteries to the rear for better weight distribution. Started with cardboard proof of concept. Still need to add second end cap but pictures are easier without it. Based on desired placement it would interfere with removal of differential in the future so clearance holes were added to allow the bolts to be removed if needed. Will likely cover the holes from the inside with small removable cover plates. Will need to incorporate lifting straps to allow pulling batteries out but they are easy to insert. Made the box about 1/2 inch wider than the batteries to allow them to be tilted slightly as they are dropped into place. Will insert some type of spacers to snug the batteries and some form of tie downs. 0.063 5052 material.




    20190202_105924.jpg20190202_160927.jpg20190202_162119.jpg20190202_160940.jpg20190202_160947.jpg
    Last edited by miller7448; 02-03-2019 at 09:39 AM.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

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  9. #47

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    Finally at engine install stage. Have a few challenges based on my selections. Unless I have something wrong with the engine as mounted:

    1) Will need a driveshaft that is only 6" long TOTAL. The supplied drive shaft is about 8.5 inches long and the shaft is only about 2 inches of that length. (T-56 MAG 6 speed is the cause)

    2) Will need to shorten one of the copper pipes coming out of the heater/defroster. I guess the firewall forward was not the best idea but I really like the extra room for wiring, ductwork, and glovebox.


    Does anyone have the dimension from outer edge of the passenger footbox and the center line of the headers? Do the headers appear to be in the correct location front to back?

    Thanks.

    Import Number 2 5096.jpgImport Number 2 5103.jpgImport Number 2 5127.jpgImport Number 2 5120.jpgImport Number 2 5112.jpg
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  10. #48

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    May not be the shortest driveshaft, but it's the shortest I could find someone to make. Will still need to move the engine forward 1.25" but existing mounts should work. Will just need to add new set of holes/slots. Other than needing custom exhaust headers anything I should be concerned about?

    short shaft.jpg
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  11. #49
    Senior Member q4stix's Avatar
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    An alternative to doing that is replacing the CV style pinion flange on the rear differential with one from the F150 like I'm having to do.
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

  12. #50

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    OMG, that looks perfect! 1) Is there a specific year F150 I should look for. 2) Never swapped/replaced one before. I'm sure it might be obvious once I remove the FFR adapter plate, but how are they attached? 3) Does the hole pattern fit the standard FFR supplied driveshaft?

    Thanks, this is a great help.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  13. #51
    Senior Member q4stix's Avatar
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    1) The part number should be FL3Z-4851-A.
    2) It's not the easiest of swaps because you have to break loose the pinned pinion nut and then re-torque a new one based on rotational force of the pinion prior to the swap, not the torque of the nut itself. The value is in the low inch-pounds. A drivetrain shop could easily do it though.
    3) The bolt pattern is 4.25" if I remember correctly so you'd need to verify with the driveshaft included. I'm going a different route than the supplied one so I haven't checked that pattern.

    As a disclaimer,
    I haven't run my car yet to verify everything but I checked the dimensions and that's the pinion flange Ford uses on its new trucks with the Super 8.8 rear like the Mustangs.
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

  14. #52

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    20190807_181640.jpg

    Finally got all the right parts to allow the T56 to fit. Shortest possible driveshaft, different pinon flange, larger flange yoke, and replacement pinon nut.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  15. #53
    Senior Member q4stix's Avatar
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    I think you have the record now! I don't count my setup as an actual driveshaft since it's more of a flex coupler without u-joints.
    Are you having to use the shortest driveshaft still? Are you officially installing the new pinion flange too?
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

  16. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by q4stix View Post
    I think you have the record now! I don't count my setup as an actual driveshaft since it's more of a flex coupler without u-joints.
    Are you having to use the shortest driveshaft still? Are you officially installing the new pinion flange too?
    So far what has been required to use the T56 from my experience:

    Replace Pinon Flange
    Replace center section of driveshaft with shorter length (now that everything is in place, the driveshaft only needs to be 3\4" shorter than original)
    Replace yoke flange with correct hole locations (4.5" diameter pattern) for New Pinon flange.
    Remove parking brake brackets, I plan to weld new supports off the main side tube.
    Remove material from angle brace on side of tunnel near parking brake mounts, add (weld) replacement bracing to support remaining portion of tube brace.
    Remove section of transmission support A-frame since T56 is lower just forward of the mounting holes.

    Unrelated, I did need to remove a section of a down brace in the engine compartment where it interfered with correct location of the 427.

    Will do complete write up with part numbers and pics if anyone is interested.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  17. #55

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    Last edited by miller7448; 09-10-2019 at 09:25 AM.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  18. #56

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    Now that the side pipes are on it's a real pain to put the car on the 2 post. To avoid the lifting bars hitting the side pipes I need to use extensions on the lifting pads. This makes it impossible to slide them under the rails. Just ordered an extra low profile floor jack that starts at under 3". Will need to position the car then lift with floor jack and rotate lifting arms under the car. Since the lifting arms are at their lowest position and the lift is rated for 10,000 lbs I'm thinking I'm ok lowering the car unto the lifting arms one side at a time. Alternative is to lift with floor jack and place something under the wheels to hold the first side in lifted position then lift the second side. Just wondering how others handle this. Thanks
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  19. #57
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Congratulations on the first start! Always love seeing that. I can’t speak for working on a lift but if you can take the side pipes off, it makes working on the car much easier at this point. Car is looking great.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  20. #58

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    Yeah 8 bolts and disconnect the O2 sensor, or deal with floor jack - Horse a piece I guess.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  21. #59

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    First Body fitting20191130_105917.jpg20191130_111456.jpg

    Based on other posts it appears I have the same areas needing attention. Most significant - trimming the back of the trunk and sides to allow the body to move forward. Trimming the body at the dashboard. Still not happy with the fit but close enough to allow test fit of doors, hood, and trunk. Most significant problem is center line of the engine/air cleaner. Although the engine mounts are bottomed out on both sides the air cleaner cover is 3/4 inch off center. Going to need to do some brainstorming.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  22. #60
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    I will bet you can jack the front, then the rear or opposite ends. Probably easier than side to side.
    I would do the front with the parking brake on, then the rear.
    Congrats on first start.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

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