Midwest Classic Insurance

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  1
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Wiring Routing at the Transmission

  1. #1
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Haslet, Texas
    Posts
    1,009
    Post Thanks / Like

    Wiring Routing at the Transmission

    How are most builders handling wire(s) and routing at the Transmission area? Is it common practice to just have wires resting (or crossing) over the transmission underneath the fiberglass tunnel? How extensive does the heat protection need to be in this area, if so? Ideally, I would like to have all of my wiring be above the trans tunnel, but with the EFI, AC/Heater, Radio, Wipers,Gauges, etc., I just don't know that I can get there. I'd really like some additional input on this as I know most don't like to post pictures of their wiring. I have already made two passes with the wire cutters and soldering iron and I am still "stuffy" in the area and I am concerned about routing it across the top of the trans (secured), but essentially running on the top of it and to the sides.

    Thanks ahead of time.

    J
    Last edited by JOP33; 08-02-2018 at 07:28 AM.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Placitas, NM
    Posts
    1,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    I've got the wiring attached with clips to both sides of the tranny as low as I could get it. I'm still working on the rest of the wiring. I've got all of the same options you mentioned. I haven't started on the electric windows, stereo, or alarm system yet.
    I'll try to post a pic tomorrow.

  3. #3
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Village Mills, Texas
    Posts
    674
    Post Thanks / Like
    I just ordered stage 2 but I plan to run everything between the trans tunnel and the console. I really didn't want anything under the car. That is the way it's routed now and it appears to by doable.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Prairieville, Louisiana
    Posts
    973
    Post Thanks / Like
    The trans gets no hotter then the motor (normally). My harness for my trans control is heat insulation wrapped in this area. It touches the case in some places but that’s how ford builds it. The harness I’ll run in there I won’t insultate but it won’t touch the case. Should be no hotter here than next to the motor.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Placitas, NM
    Posts
    1,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have some insulation on the battery cable and the fuel lines (supply and return) that runs on the pass side of the tranny.
    The cable going to the shifter (not connected yet) is for the bump up/down shifting.

    DSCN2287.JPG

    Drivers side, the Red and Blue wires are from the shifter switches for the up/down shifting.

    DSCN2288.JPG

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Placitas, NM
    Posts
    1,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yesterday I decided to strip off almost all of the plastic corrugated tubing on the drivers side of the tranny and wrap it with cloth tape like I did with the engine ECU wiring. The tunnel cover fits up against the firewall much better now.

    I also stripped off the plastic on the pass side too, then wrapped those wires with cloth tape.
    Last edited by JimLev; 02-17-2019 at 03:52 PM.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Yucaipa, CA
    Posts
    114
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    I am getting near wiring and have a maybe,,, stupid question. The "book" shows the wire harness feeds going through holes with grommets in the trans tunnel. Easy enough but they look pretty permanent,, what if you want to make the tunnel removable? Has a better route been tried and proven? My only thought so far is to make "U" shaped cuts at top of tunnel that would allow it to slide away without disturbing the loom. BUT I can see problems with air, water etc leaks.... I bet you talented Guys have come up with a good solution already.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    111
    Post Thanks / Like
    My goal is to make mine removable. I'm not sure what others have done but I slotted the transtunnel for my clutch line and front harness (since the headlight connector can't fit through the hole for the grommet. The rear harness and engine harness can fit through the hole for the grommet so I didn't slot those (the two on the right). This set up will allow my trans tunnel to be removable. I also have riveted cable ties on the inside so the rear and front harness sneak up on either side of the trans tunnel. When it has to be removed, I snip the zip ties.

    You can't really see it, but in the second picture, but the right grommet hole has about .5" wide slot that runs up to the firewall that allows me to get the cables in. It's only required on the top insert cutout, not the full trans tunnel....

    DSC06900.jpg
    DSC06901.jpg
    DSC06902.jpg
    Last edited by fostia; 02-16-2019 at 09:02 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Placitas, NM
    Posts
    1,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    I didn't use the grommets, I made 2 U shaped cutouts on the tunnel so it can be removed. The bottom flange of the cover is screwed to the floor.
    Also screwed the top cover to the tunnel. I'll seal the top of the cover to the firewall, not sure what I'll be using. Maybe some foam insulation I have on order.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  10. #10
    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Stillwater, NY
    Posts
    599
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hard to describe, but I made a U shaped cutout on the tunnel but also made a metal bracket attached to fire wall frame tube that has a hole and grommet for the wiring. The tunnel can be removed without disturbing the wiring.

    He's a 2 minute sketch



    tunnel wire.png

  11. Thanks FF33rod thanked for this post
  12. #11
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    27
    Post Thanks / Like
    I made 1 "U" shaped cut at top middle of tunnel by firewall so I could get tunnel in and out, it worked out good. I also ran my wiring on top of trans (in loom) then down by the tailshaft to the frame and then back to the back

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Replica Parts

Visit our community sponsor