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Thread: Wiring Routing at the Transmission

  1. #1
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Wiring Routing at the Transmission

    How are most builders handling wire(s) and routing at the Transmission area? Is it common practice to just have wires resting (or crossing) over the transmission underneath the fiberglass tunnel? How extensive does the heat protection need to be in this area, if so? Ideally, I would like to have all of my wiring be above the trans tunnel, but with the EFI, AC/Heater, Radio, Wipers,Gauges, etc., I just don't know that I can get there. I'd really like some additional input on this as I know most don't like to post pictures of their wiring. I have already made two passes with the wire cutters and soldering iron and I am still "stuffy" in the area and I am concerned about routing it across the top of the trans (secured), but essentially running on the top of it and to the sides.

    Thanks ahead of time.

    J
    Last edited by JOP33; 08-02-2018 at 07:28 AM.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19

  2. #2
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    I've got the wiring attached with clips to both sides of the tranny as low as I could get it. I'm still working on the rest of the wiring. I've got all of the same options you mentioned. I haven't started on the electric windows, stereo, or alarm system yet.
    I'll try to post a pic tomorrow.

  3. #3
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    I just ordered stage 2 but I plan to run everything between the trans tunnel and the console. I really didn't want anything under the car. That is the way it's routed now and it appears to by doable.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

  4. #4
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    The trans gets no hotter then the motor (normally). My harness for my trans control is heat insulation wrapped in this area. It touches the case in some places but that’s how ford builds it. The harness I’ll run in there I won’t insultate but it won’t touch the case. Should be no hotter here than next to the motor.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  5. #5
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    I have some insulation on the battery cable and the fuel lines (supply and return) that runs on the pass side of the tranny.
    The cable going to the shifter (not connected yet) is for the bump up/down shifting.

    DSCN2287.JPG

    Drivers side, the Red and Blue wires are from the shifter switches for the up/down shifting.

    DSCN2288.JPG

  6. #6
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    Yesterday I decided to strip off almost all of the plastic corrugated tubing on the drivers side of the tranny and wrap it with cloth tape like I did with the engine ECU wiring. The tunnel cover fits up against the firewall much better now.

    I also stripped off the plastic on the pass side too, then wrapped those wires with cloth tape.
    Last edited by JimLev; 02-17-2019 at 03:52 PM.

  7. #7

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    I am getting near wiring and have a maybe,,, stupid question. The "book" shows the wire harness feeds going through holes with grommets in the trans tunnel. Easy enough but they look pretty permanent,, what if you want to make the tunnel removable? Has a better route been tried and proven? My only thought so far is to make "U" shaped cuts at top of tunnel that would allow it to slide away without disturbing the loom. BUT I can see problems with air, water etc leaks.... I bet you talented Guys have come up with a good solution already.

  8. #8
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    My goal is to make mine removable. I'm not sure what others have done but I slotted the transtunnel for my clutch line and front harness (since the headlight connector can't fit through the hole for the grommet. The rear harness and engine harness can fit through the hole for the grommet so I didn't slot those (the two on the right). This set up will allow my trans tunnel to be removable. I also have riveted cable ties on the inside so the rear and front harness sneak up on either side of the trans tunnel. When it has to be removed, I snip the zip ties.

    You can't really see it, but in the second picture, but the right grommet hole has about .5" wide slot that runs up to the firewall that allows me to get the cables in. It's only required on the top insert cutout, not the full trans tunnel....

    DSC06900.jpg
    DSC06901.jpg
    DSC06902.jpg
    Last edited by fostia; 02-16-2019 at 09:02 PM.

  9. #9
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    I didn't use the grommets, I made 2 U shaped cutouts on the tunnel so it can be removed. The bottom flange of the cover is screwed to the floor.
    Also screwed the top cover to the tunnel. I'll seal the top of the cover to the firewall, not sure what I'll be using. Maybe some foam insulation I have on order.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  10. #10
    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
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    Hard to describe, but I made a U shaped cutout on the tunnel but also made a metal bracket attached to fire wall frame tube that has a hole and grommet for the wiring. The tunnel can be removed without disturbing the wiring.

    He's a 2 minute sketch



    tunnel wire.png
    Arrowhead's '33 Hot Rod Build Site:
    http://sites.google.com/site/arrowheadshotrodsite/Home

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  12. #11
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    I made 1 "U" shaped cut at top middle of tunnel by firewall so I could get tunnel in and out, it worked out good. I also ran my wiring on top of trans (in loom) then down by the tailshaft to the frame and then back to the back

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