Help needed-stupid move

[magicmarto]

Guys,
I did a dumb *** move-I installed the steering control brackets up side down-the Conical hole is facing the wrong way-ahhhh
Best part, I had the whole front suspension done-then I went to put the steering rack in.....and guess what, installing the conical ball joint from the steering rack would not fit in.

So, I took off the brakes, no biggie, undid the lower A arm ball joint cotter pin and nut, no biggie-thinking I would just slide the steering bracket off and flip it to the correct orientation-wrong!
The bolt are just about 1/2 to long for that to happen-****

So, How do I loosen and get the lower ball joint out of the spindle??????

Is there a tool for that? Trick of the trade.....

Any input and help is much appreciated-
Thanks
Martin

[Papa]

This should help:

[GoDadGo]

You can try a Ball Joint Press or Ball Joint Clamp if the Forks don't do the trick.
Most can be rented at any National Chain Auto Parts Store.
Shown below is an example of the tools in question:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Biltek-6p...ller/168757219

Good Luck!

[edwardb]

Ball joints can be a pain to take apart once they've been seated. If you get rough with them, can damage parts including the boots. Why not go at it from a different direction? Leave the ball joints alone and unbolt the front wheel hub nuts and pull the hub out enough to clear the bolts. Then remove the steering arms and flip them around the other direction and to the opposite sides. So the taper is the right direction. This exact question came up a couple months ago in another post, with the same issue. Hard to remove the ball joints so removed the hubs.

Unfortunately, you're not the only what that's gotten tripped up on this. Easy to miss in the instructions: "The spindles are marked DSS (Driver Side Spindle) and PSS (Passenger Side Spindle). These refer to the way they are mounted on the FFR Hot Rod which is rear steer. The FFR Roadster uses these as front steer so they are mounted opposite. The DSS spindle is mounted on the right side and the PSS spindle is mounted on the left side."

[initiator]

Martin - it's not a stupid move, it's more like a rite of passage. Congrats, and welcome to the club!

[magicmarto]

THanks Edward
Let me ask you a question:
So I torqued the wheel assembly to 250 lf/ft as listed
Are you telling me to remove the nut on the hub and the hub will come off? I thought it was also "pressed" onto the shaft
Private message me, If I can call you on this
Thanks
M

[magicmarto]

Ahhh, I know and I'm good with it. Just a pain in the ***......****.
Any input and advise?
M

[slpro1207]

Yep. I did it to. As have several others.

[edwardb]

THanks Edward
Let me ask you a question:
So I torqued the wheel assembly to 250 lf/ft as listed
Are you telling me to remove the nut on the hub and the hub will come off? I thought it was also "pressed" onto the shaft
Private message me, If I can call you on this
Thanks
M

I don't think there's any need for PM or call. Plus I won't be home all day today. Yes, remove the previously torqued hub nut and the hub should slide off as a complete assembly. Just how it went on. Sometimes they are a little tight on the spindle shaft. So depending on how hard it was to slide on, it may take a little persuasion to slide off. But it should come off. Assuming you assembled the front suspension in the order shown in the manual, the upper and lower ball joints were assembled, then the steering arm, then the hub. So reversing the assembly, take the hub off first. Just presenting as an alternative to trying to get the ball joints apart.

[KDubU]

If I am understanding your issue correctly, two hammers smacked together on each side will pop it out.

[jrcuz]

I did it too.
JR

[Avalanche325]

If I am understanding your issue correctly, two hammers smacked together on each side will pop it out.

THIS is the best way to remove them. Most of the time, one hammer will work. Two from opposite sides if they are really stuck. You are squeezing the hole on the tapered shaft and they pop right out.

My only concern is that this counts on the tapered fit, which you don't really have with them in backwards. But, I would try this method first. Pickle forks damage the ball joint. Putting a nut on and whacking it also damages things most of the time. I have never used one of the spreaders.

[Dave Howard]

If I am understanding your issue correctly, two hammers smacked together on each side will pop it out.

Agreed with Avalanch325. Since the ball joint has recently been installed, a couple of solid taps on the outside of the steering arms and it will fall out. No need for anything more elaborate. You realize how easy it is and be glad you didn't dismantle any more of the front end components.

[RJD]

I don't think there's any need for PM or call. Plus I won't be home all day today. Yes, remove the previously torqued hub nut and the hub should slide off as a complete assembly. Just how it went on. Sometimes they are a little tight on the spindle shaft. So depending on how hard it was to slide on, it may take a little persuasion to slide off. But it should come off. Assuming you assembled the front suspension in the order shown in the manual, the upper and lower ball joints were assembled, then the steering arm, then the hub. So reversing the assembly, take the hub off first. Just presenting as an alternative to trying to get the ball joints apart.

This is what I did ...and it worked like a charm. Ball joints came out easily.

[cnutting]

I also made this same mistake... and many more mistakes followed!

Somehow I got through it and you will too.

[Mark Eaton]

ditto to what cnutting said and I got out of it the way Avalanche325 describes. Good luck!

[CFranks]

I just went through the exact same thing, in the end I ended up taking off the hub nuts and hub. Wasn’t hard at all, just needed a breaker bar. Make sure you replace the hub nut, Breeze sells them ant there’s a dorman part too. I posted a thread on the other forum recently with more details. Good luck.