BluePrint Engines

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  1
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Donor Harness to FF ignition switch.

  1. #1
    BTHWarrior's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Lewisville, TX
    Posts
    51
    Post Thanks / Like

    Donor Harness to FF ignition switch.

    I need help wiring the factory five ignition switch to my 2001 Mustang GT 4.6 donor wiring harness. I am needing to know which wires need to be attached to the key ignition switch from the donor ignition switch. The donor has about 11 wires and the FF switch has only four connection posts. I am keeping the ABS and traction control if that makes a difference. I have the instrument panel and the original key (PATS) ignition switch behind the dash panel per the directions in the basic build manual but I just need to figure out which wires will now need to be attached to the aftermarket dash switch. I have seen several postings on this site and the FFCars.com site but I didn't locate a simple to use diagram of the wires that will need to be cut from the original switch and connected to the new one. At this time I hope to use the factory donor wiring harness instead of replacing it with an aftermarket one or a harness that was modified by experts for a large fee. I have many hours already invested in this harness, the removal from the donor car and installation in the roadster to include removal of circuits not needed. The donor route on a first build is very challenging to say the least but I hope in the long run it will be worth it. Thanks

    Roy
    Mk4 Roadster #9054, 2001 Mustang GT donor, 4.6 SOHC engine, automatic transmission, ABS brakes

  2. #2
    Richard Oben's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Kansas City MO
    Posts
    279
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just guessing but the old Ford switches were sort of stacked from one end to the other, the switch changed rotation to linear on a plunger. The wire to the starter is on one end that goes to the Start position on the FFR switch. There were two big yellow that go to the B or battery. The brown wires are ACC the pink wires are IGN. The best thing to do is volt meter the wires with the coils disconnected and see what works in which position. Any 12 V Battery will let you test it. HTH, Richard.
    Richard Oben FFR builder www.northracecars.com

    Need help finishing your project we can help here or at your shop.

    FFR GTM #34 first GTM with working AC. 400 hp LS1 w/G50
    FFR coupe 3617CP 331 Stack EFI T-5 IRS Cobra brakes, AC/heat.
    Both cars by NRC, we can build (and have built) any FFR product.
    We also make and sell a ton of great parts for the FFR community.
    Brake kits, AC systems, #1 supplier of Team III wheels.

  3. Thanks BTHWarrior thanked for this post
  4. #3
    BTHWarrior's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Lewisville, TX
    Posts
    51
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Richard, I believe my biggest hurdle is making sure I get all the wires connected to the proper post on the aftermarket switch. It looks like I will have to connect several wires to a single wire then connect it to the right post. Some will have to be wired to the "Run" post and to the "ACC" post so there seems to be a duplication of wires going to these two post. Looks like trial and error but I was hoping someone had done this before and had a simple schematic already drawn showing the correct color wire that goes to the proper post. I think I have narrowed the terminals on the back of the factory switch to all the "B1-B4" wires connecting to the "B" (battery) post on the ignition switch and the "A1-A4" connecting to the "R" (Run) post and the "A1" connecting to the "ACC" post. This would leave the "STA" wire going to the "S" (start) post. If this seems logical then I should have it figured out enough to get the car to start.
    Mk4 Roadster #9054, 2001 Mustang GT donor, 4.6 SOHC engine, automatic transmission, ABS brakes

  5. #4
    Senior Member Mark K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    128
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi, there. I'm at this point in my build, using a 2004 Mach 1 donor harness. Did you get this to work? I was going to follow your same strategy, except connecting A1 only to the ACC post (it will tie-in to the Run post internally in the switch). Did you get any overcurrent situations by combining all the B wires together into one line into the switch?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Stewart Transport

Visit our community sponsor