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Thread: TONKS 347 the Baker's Build

  1. #121
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Flex Lines

    Got the flex lines installed and riveted in, and then went to install the brake hard lines and realized I didn't like where I had my brackets installed on the back. The front and rear both look fine, but looking at some others I prefer a different spot for the rear attachment so I am going to end up moving them.





    While I was there with my father in law he wanted to lube the entire kit as it is, making sure to get everything while it was open and available. PLUS as you all know I am a noob and had never done a lube before. He did all the zerk fittings that he could find but stopped when it came the the rear calipers on the Wilwoods. Do those get lubed as well? Is it a certain or different grease than the rest of the chassis? He wanted to ask before we went ahead with those last two zerk fittings on top of the rear calipers.

    We also got the sending unit and pick up installed in the gas tank, BUT could NOT get it attached. We twisted, pushed, pulled, bent, unbent, cajoled, and otherwise held our mouths in the right position and STILL could not get the bolts to fit through the straps or even line up enough to do it. Talking to SEVERAL of you on FB it was recommended to just get longer bolts to get it started so I will do that as soon as I get back. I also remembered the rear bumper hack that edwardb mentions or maybe it was Jeff, either way I want to do that before I put in the tank so I will get those couplers when I get back. I leave the tank on the ground as is.



    I'm taking a few days off to head to Austin, TX to watch the MotoGP race. If any of you are going or if anyone is in Austin please let me know. I would LOVE to come see your car, kit, or build in any shape at all.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  2. #122
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    While I was there with my father in law he wanted to lube the entire kit as it is, making sure to get everything while it was open and available. PLUS as you all know I am a noob and had never done a lube before. He did all the zerk fittings that he could find but stopped when it came the the rear calipers on the Wilwoods. Do those get lubed as well? Is it a certain or different grease than the rest of the chassis? He wanted to ask before we went ahead with those last two zerk fittings on top of the rear calipers.

    We also got the sending unit and pick up installed in the gas tank, BUT could NOT get it attached. We twisted, pushed, pulled, bent, unbent, cajoled, and otherwise held our mouths in the right position and STILL could not get the bolts to fit through the straps or even line up enough to do it. Talking to SEVERAL of you on FB it was recommended to just get longer bolts to get it started so I will do that as soon as I get back. I also remembered the rear bumper hack that edwardb mentions or maybe it was Jeff, either way I want to do that before I put in the tank so I will get those couplers when I get back. I leave the tank on the ground as is.
    Those fittings on the Wilwood calipers (and all other brake calipers) are bleeders used to bleed air from the brake system. Not grease zerk fittings. There are no grease fittings on the calipers. Unless you opened them, nothing would go in plus I'm not even sure a grease gun fits. But please don't try to do what you're describing.

    For the tank, did you flatten the flange around the tank? In other words, remove where the flange is bent up by where the straps are installed? Mentioned in the build manual, but often missed. Hard to tell from your pictures. If you didn't, that will interfere with how the tank fits against the plastic bumpers on the frame and make the bolts hard to install. Once it's sitting flat, normally the left (driver's) side installs pretty easily. But not unusual to need a longer bolt on the right (passenger) side. Once it's started and tightened, a lot of the threads will show. But often is hard to get started with the supplied bolt.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  3. #123
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    He has built more cars than I have driven and he’s going to kick himself when he finds out what they are. He didn’t think they were zerks so we never tried to attach the grease gun.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  4. #124
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Well after getting back to the car for a week I'm now off again, but at least it isn't work keeping me away. Greetings from beautiful Austin, TX for the MotoGP race this weekend. I am hoping to get to see another Cobra later today from a builder.




    Bikes are on the track and we are having a blast. But I am really looking forward to getting back to the kit!
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  5. #125
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    After a well deserved break I got back to the car first thing today. I used some ratchet straps to lift the gas tank into place and get it attached. Apparently a lot of guys have had the problem of the bolts being too short to attach the straps. This is what mine looked like.



    No amount of prodding on my part was going to get that strap into place, but using a longer bolt I was able to get it in and tightened. That brought the strap to the right place and worked like a charm. I took this picture before putting the other bolt in because I was so excited that it worked. Once I get it in place I am going to drop it again to do the coupler mod where the rear quickjacks attach.



    This really feels like progress. Once I get the couplers on tomorrow I am going to reroute my brake lines and install my fuel lines. Feels GREAT!
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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  7. #126

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    Keep up the good progress!

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  9. #127
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Yeah that's a good idea to lift it up with ratchet straps wish I thought of that, I laid underneath and pushed it up then wonder how my shirt got all ripped up, those metal tank straps have some sharp edges.

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  11. #128
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    Wiring Harness

    It's been about 4 months since I was able to work on the kit, but my Father-in-law came into town which gave me the perfect opportunity to get back to it.
    We got the firewall installed and the holes drilled for the wiring. It's a pretty straightforward process and I was happy to see it move so quickly. Instructions for a change are incredibly clear and photos are helpful as well.





    After getting the harnesses installed and the clips attached we moved on to the fuel filter and radiator.





    My radiator did not have any holes drilled in any part of it. In all of the photos there are round and long holes in the radiator, but mine was completely undrilled. Not a huge deal, and could even be normal, but just something that was different. I have ordered the Breeze lower radiator mount. I don't like how it is just hanging out there. Plus the metal is pretty soft, and with my schedule it may sit like this for 6 months. It just doesn't feel safe.
    The only other thing I will mention is since there are such long gaps in the time that I get to work on stuff I sometimes lose my place. I will take a bag out of a box and have it on the workbench. Then 3 months later forget where that bag came from. I started writing both the box and bag numbers on the manual pages so I could easily reference each.



    Maybe it will help another noob to not have 5 bags on the bench and have to look back through the inventory to figure out what connectors go with what.

    I am starting on all of the sheet metal next. It has been sprayed with a sealant but I don't think I am going to paint any of it anymore. I think it will all have the thermo tec on it anyway. Does anyone else have thermo-tec on the firewall that isn't covered by anything? I mean the side facing the engine compartment. I can always mask and paint it but I think the thermo-tec will be the better route for me since I am driving and not showing the car. And it's the *Deep South* which means it is hot. Really hot, so anything I can do to cut down on the heat getting into the cockpit is a good idea. I think.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  12. #129
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    PS footbox

    So I started on my PS footbox. Let me tell you if you have marked anything incorrectly it will come back to bite you. I apparently marked the flanges as being on the outside. Not sure how I did that but I messed that up. So my first install went like this



    Pretty ugly. Once I posted a picture online and the guys started telling me to put the flanges on the inside I went back, drilled all of them out, took it apart, cleaned all the silicone off, and then reinstalled them with the flanges inside. It was a TON of work but totally worth it. It looks SOOOOOOO much better the right way.





    I have a lot MORE cleaning to do as well, but then I am going to prep the metal for POR-15 on the inside of the engine compartment. So the engine side of the firewall and the footboxes. Inside the footboxes I will use Kilmat or Thermo-tec or something similar.
    Part of the problem in addition to them being marked wrong by yours truly, was that I did not take my computer with me to the shop that day. Usually my routine is to read the manual then read a couple of build threads specifically about what I am working on. But that day I did not do that and I have paid the price. Learn from my mistakes and always do the research ahead of time. SO much effort to fix it once it was wrong. Thanks again to all of you who are so generous with your time and knowledge. I am eating this elephant one bite at a time.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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  14. #130
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Good to see ya back, Tonks. Keep on building. And we've all had some of those "D'oh!" moments.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  15. #131

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Tonk,

    Great to see you back inaction as well.
    Also, check the height of your reservoir in comparison to your Master Cylinders because it looks like it may be a tad low.
    It may be the angle of the picture, but please check the height because the reservoir needs to be higher than your M/C's.
    Happy Wrenching & Again, Glad To See You Back!

    Steve

  16. #132
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Is there a specific “part” of the reservoir that needs to be higher? Top, middle, bottom? I’ll check it today and let you know

    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Tonk,

    Great to see you back inaction as well.
    Also, check the height of your reservoir in comparison to your Master Cylinders because it looks like it may be a tad low.
    It may be the angle of the picture, but please check the height because the reservoir needs to be higher than your M/C's.
    Happy Wrenching & Again, Glad To See You Back!

    Steve
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  17. #133

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    The top of the cap needs to be higher than the Master Cylinders.
    Hope this helps.

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  19. #134
    TMartinLVNV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    So I started on my PS footbox. Let me tell you if you have marked anything incorrectly it will come back to bite you. I apparently marked the flanges as being on the outside. Not sure how I did that but I messed that up. So my first install went like this



    Pretty ugly. Once I posted a picture online and the guys started telling me to put the flanges on the inside I went back, drilled all of them out, took it apart, cleaned all the silicone off, and then reinstalled them with the flanges inside. It was a TON of work but totally worth it. It looks SOOOOOOO much better the right way.





    I have a lot MORE cleaning to do as well, but then I am going to prep the metal for POR-15 on the inside of the engine compartment. So the engine side of the firewall and the footboxes. Inside the footboxes I will use Kilmat or Thermo-tec or something similar.
    Part of the problem in addition to them being marked wrong by yours truly, was that I did not take my computer with me to the shop that day. Usually my routine is to read the manual then read a couple of build threads specifically about what I am working on. But that day I did not do that and I have paid the price. Learn from my mistakes and always do the research ahead of time. SO much effort to fix it once it was wrong. Thanks again to all of you who are so generous with your time and knowledge. I am eating this elephant one bite at a time.
    Mitch, I am king of putting it all together, stepping back, and realizing that I did it wrong and have to do it all over again. Isn't it amazing how fast it is to put together the second time? I've had to drill out plenty of rivets too. Twice now I put in a panel only to realize that I didn't silicone it!!!

    Terry

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  21. #135
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    E-Brake relocation

    I started to put in my sheet metal and got to the cockpit when someone recommended I relocate the E-brake before I put in the rest, as access would be the main problem. I put the seat in and the steering wheel and tried to actuate the brake and could barely reach it. I am not the tallest guy nor do I have the longest arms. So decision made, but this would be the first real major mod I have done. I don't weld and I don't fabricate yet, although I am trying to figure out something for the next mod, but that is later. So my fix had to have a couple of rules:
    1. It had to use what I already had
    2. It had to NOT require welding or fabricating parts

    I had the Lokar cables that came with a bracket and ferules, so I figured I was going to use them. Searching on the forums I got a couple of ideas and decided to go with this. I would mount the brake on the top of the trans tunnel, and my bolts would go through the top. If I used carriage bolts I could get them to sit flush, so the disruption to the tunnel cover will be minimal.
    After figuring out where the handle would go I drilled a couple of holes then filed them until they were square, so the carriage bolts would sit as flush as possible.



    I knew from the FIRST time I installed the brake that the cables needed to be pretty straight heading to the cable lock. I cut off the bracket from the frame and ground it down to accept the Lokar bracket. I bent that bracket so the angle would be correct.



    Then installed it at a bit of an angle to minimize any disruption to the cables themselves.



    I drilled new holes in the bracket so a total of four rivets will hold it on. I am also going to go the overkill route and use a metal epoxy in addition to the rivets. Just don't want it to budge at all and had heard stories about some of them breaking when pulled on.



    This will be the finished product once I get everything attached permanently and screwed down tight. I think I will have enough clearance on the top so the boot I am using will just snug right to the edge of the tunnel.



    If I have messed anything up terribly please let me know. This is a pretty simple solution because I am a simple guy, but before the final attachments I want to make sure it is all good. I might need to move the handle another inch or so away from the edge but I think I am fine. The trim ring I will install once the carpet is in measures 6.25" long by 2.5" wide on the outside. My handle sits 2" from the edge, so the trim ring should have .5" of clearance.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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  23. #136
    Senior Member GTBradley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    I am starting on all of the sheet metal next. It has been sprayed with a sealant but I don't think I am going to paint any of it anymore. I think it will all have the thermo tec on it anyway. Does anyone else have thermo-tec on the firewall that isn't covered by anything? I mean the side facing the engine compartment. I can always mask and paint it but I think the thermo-tec will be the better route for me since I am driving and not showing the car. And it's the *Deep South* which means it is hot. Really hot, so anything I can do to cut down on the heat getting into the cockpit is a good idea. I think.
    Looking good, but I have a preference for the natural look when it comes to the panels, so I love the firewall as is. I put the sound and heat insulation on the inside of the firewall for that reason.

    As as far as the forgetting goes, I took almost no breaks in my build and still was confused at times where things were or what box they came out of, so I marked every bag and the manual with descriptions and box numbers.
    Bradley

    Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.

    The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.

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  25. #137
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Slow and steady. Every time I read the book the turtle wins.

    I got my firewall and PS footbox painted with about 7 coats of POR-15 high temp manifold grey. I used a spare piece of aluminum to test the paint and found that scuffing it works best for adhesion since there is no rust to paint over. I scuffed and prepped the aluminum then according to the instructions I used one coat as primer. Sanded a bit between coats and kept going. It is amazing stuff and I love the look.



    I also started to measure for my drop trunk. I am going to make my own just so I can get some experience in modding and fabricating and such. Still not welding but it is on the list.



    Going to make the trunk as large as possible. Not cutting the crossbar is really going to limit the space but I just don't want to do it. So making my own trunk it is! I am going to use mine as a daily driver as much as possible so having a usable space back there is a necessity, plus the learning and experience.
    So far so good.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  26. #138
    TMartinLVNV's Avatar
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    Your POR paint looks really good. I used Duplicolor bedliner spray and am not happy with it. It comes off way too easily. The evenness of your paint is much better too.

    Terry
    MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller

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  28. #139
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMartinLVNV View Post
    Your POR paint looks really good. I used Duplicolor bedliner spray and am not happy with it. It comes off way too easily. The evenness of your paint is much better too.

    Terry
    I may have had some experience with spray paint in my life, and that is all I will say about that unless you are an officer of the law. PLUS the POR-15 spray can has a vertical flat spray nozzle that really helps. Never start or finish on the metal you are painting. Start the spray beside it and pass over until you are off the metal, then stop the spray. And shake for about 2 minutes before starting, then shake again every 5 or 6 sprays. Happy Painting as Bob Ross would say!
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  29. #140
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    Back at it...at long last. Can't believe it has been nine months since my last update. I have been on the forum reading you guys, but between opening my third restaurant in November, then closing all three of my places in March, only to reopen a couple of them three months later it has been insane. I thought when I closed all my businesses and laid everyone off that I would have plenty of time to work on the car, but I probably worked harder during that time on the restaurants. I wasn't able to get unemployment because of the way I get paid, so I was selling bread at a local market to put gas in the car. Then we did some pop up restaurants because I had some staff that also was not on unemployment. I was able to help them get paid cash and keep the lights on and such.
    Anyway, I finally got to work on the car and got the dash laid out. I took some scraps of leather and foam like many many of the guys here have suggested and practiced adhering it to metal. I am SO happy that I did as the end result came out really clean. It took three practice attempts with scraps before I felt confident enough to try it on the whole dash.



    The foam on the dash. I used DAP Weldwood and a roller to get a really even coat. Then put the two parts together. I did it faster than you are supposed to so that I could hopefully move it if I needed, but it wasn't needed.



    Really happy with how it came out. Clean and smooth. I put the gauges in and put it in place in the car to get it figured out before starting the wiring. No need to deal with wires and such when I am trying to get it screwed in place. I went with "it's a feature not a bug" option and used finishing washers on the screws and just went straight through the front. If they can be seen with the body on then at least they will look like they are supposed to be there, plus I think they look great next to the bezels on the gauges.



    After getting it in and being thrilled with the results I pulled it off and now am beginning the wiring. I am reading several threads about that as the wiring is my most scary and least knowledgeable part. But the instructions are pretty good and the threads are even better. Thanks for all the help you are giving without even knowing it. Two years in now, I am guessing with my schedule it will take another two to finish, but I don't mind at all.

    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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  31. #141

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    Back at it...at long last. Can't believe it has been nine months since my last update. I have been on the forum reading you guys, but between opening my third restaurant in November, then closing all three of my places in March, only to reopen a couple of them three months later it has been insane. I thought when I closed all my businesses and laid everyone off that I would have plenty of time to work on the car, but I probably worked harder during that time on the restaurants.
    The restaurant business has been extremely hard hit across the country as you well know...I'm surprised to see you post anything much less have time to work on your car at the present time...Perseverance will win the game so don't let the bumps or in this case boulders in the road deter you...It just may take a little longer so don't give up.

    Seeing you back online makes me want an Over The Top Donut & Black Coffee!

    Hang In There!

  32. #142
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    The restaurant business has been extremely hard hit across the country as you well know...I'm surprised to see you post anything much less have time to work on your car at the present time...Perseverance will win the game so don't let the bumps or in this case boulders in the road deter you...It just may take a little longer so don't give up.

    Seeing you back online makes me want an Over The Top Donut & Black Coffee!

    Hang In There!
    I have found that if I try to take a whole day off to work on the car I have lots of guilt. There is just so much else that I can be doing with my time these days especially. But if I take a lunch break for an hour each day it allows me to clear my head, work on the car, and just unwind for an hour. It has greatly improved my mental state at work and I’ve gotten stuff done on the car. It’s a win-win for me.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  33. #143
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    Jackson, MS
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    1

    Heat/Sound insulation

    I worked on the heat and sound insulation for the footboxes and cockpit for the past few days. Man is it tedious. I knew from the beginning that I was going to do this so I made templates when I had the panels off.



    But it's been so long that not all of them are labeled so I had to go through a stack to find each one. PLUS now that the panels are riveted they are smaller on some edges and the same on others, so I took each template and matched it to where it was going, then I labeled them. I even labeled one backwards, which resulted in me cutting the insulation backwards, making it unusable. Ahh good times good times.
    So taking my time, because really what choice do you have when doing this, I matched the templates and lined everything up. Then peeled the backing off the Thermo-tec and applied it. I used a roller to really get it in tight and down.
    I went with Thermo-tec over some of the other options because of cost and ease of installation. I am obviously no expert and may have chosen wrong but I really ended up liking the stuff. It's easy to put in, easy to cut, not too expensive, and this product is one product for both heat AND sound.



    The end result was good. I can't test the heat yet but the sound is pretty impressive. I took a video of the before and after and the sound deadening is pretty cool. Coupled with the riveting and the silicone it should be a solid!
    Lastly since I relocated my E-brake I had that hole in the sheet metal of the trans tunnel that I had to cover. I cut the absolute ugliest patch that you could ever cut and siliconed and riveted it in place, then covered it up with Thermo-tec so no one will ever see. ;-)



    It looks in the picture like the bottom part of the hole is not filled but it's just a trick of the light. I had to make a second patch that I bent on a brake to cover the bottom. But like I said, no one will even see it so I am good to go.
    Next I will do the driver's side, then the wiring for the dash, then it's time to get the engine and transmission in!

    Oh one last thing, I set the seats and dash in just to see how they will look. I'm in love. The color is going to be a darker green and I think it will be kicking.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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  35. #144
    Senior Member
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    You're build is coming out great! Keep it going!

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