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Thread: TONKS 347 the Baker's Build

  1. #41
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    You'll find that there are a few places where the tabs need to be spread a bit to allow a good fit. You can make a simple spreader tool with a piece of threaded rod and a couple of large washers and nuts.
    I’ve had to so this on just about every fitment from steering to control arms to suspension. Takes a minute or less and fits super tight once snugged back together. No biggie.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

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  3. #42
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I certainly hope I donít come off that way. My unmentionables are completely untwisted. ;-) And Iím looking forward to every part of this John, even the grinding down of slag and everything in between.
    Oh no... not a bit.
    Just remember this is a hand-built car, and it's gonna take a little bit of horse-sense and maybe a thump or two to get things to fit/line up.
    (Frankly I'm a bit surprised at some of the recent threads... Maybe you guys got "Monday or Friday" frames - I only had to tweak a couple of my frame horns to get the suspension arms to slide in)
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

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  5. #43


    Not a waxer
    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    ... any discrepancies side-to-side can (and will) be taken care of in the final alignment.

    (One of the things I've noticed about some of the threads here is that the builders are expecting Swiss-watch/robotic/CAD/.001 tolerances on some of these parts. Ain't gonna happen. It's a bunch of steel that's clamped in a jig, and hand welded. Things move, heat distorts, but DAMN - the guys at FFR do a fabulous job.)

    If you've ever worked on a late-60s musclecar... restoring one, repairing one... you'll realize just how good you've got it working on an FFR frame. Those P.O.S's from the 60's were slammed together with a +/- 1/8" (or bigger) tolerance. A STACK of shims and a BFH were the norm, not the exception!

    Yes... question something that is clearly way out of whack - but if it's "just that close" do whatever's reasonable to get it to fit.
    Precisely. Thank you John!

    Mitchell, I didn't sense any twisted knickers, just a valid question

    Carry on!

    Jeff

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  7. #44
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    I got the slag ground off, then repainted the tab. After that dried I was able to set the lower control arm in place easily. Got it tightened and torqued down as well.

    grind.JPG

    I haven't attached my F panels yet. Still trying to decide on the color or the powder coat or even just the sanded aluminum. I have to make that decision and then attach those before attaching the rest of the front suspension.
    Sorry the posts are so scattered. Business and the rest of life gets in the way as you all know. But I am taking my time, enjoying the skills I'm gaining and the process.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  8. #45
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    picture embed

    Just learning how to use the forum better so my pictures are larger. Ignore this post.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  9. #46
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    In case I haven't said today how great Kevin is let me just say he is GREAT! And thanks to David Hodgkins for his post HERE about improving your forum picture skillz. :-)
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  10. #47
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    In case I haven't said today how great Kevin is let me just say he is GREAT! And thanks to David Hodgkins for his post HERE about improving your forum picture skillz. :-)
    Aw, shucks! I was just going to compliment you on the great photos!

    Kevin
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 10/14/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  11. #48
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    Front Suspension

    Soooooo many guys on this forum will say they don't know what they are doing, but they don't mean it. They have done a little here and there and know more than they realize. I do mean it. I grew up wanting to work on cars but without a dad who liked cars we just didn't do it. I eventually started to learn on my own but have never worked on cars to any extent enough to know what certain things are SUPPOSED to look like. I have changed my oil and my brake pads, but that is it. I have seen a car without a wheel on it when I was working on brake pads exactly once. So I am admittedly ignorant, but I am not an idiot. I am building a car from parts, and I eventually want to drive the car and not die. To that end I have a couple of mechanic friends that I text before, during and after my work so they can critique it and give me pointers or fix things before they go wrong.
    But I want to know guys like me out there that THEY CAN DO THIS with enough help from all of you, and I WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT BUILDING CARS AND SUCH! This has always been my goal. I want to learn. I am passionate about the learning part. I don't have a teacher but I consider each of you my mentors.
    Without knowing what the suspension was supposed to look like I want to show you what I did the other day when my mechanic friend didn't message me back in time about the suspension. (Typically I read through a couple of threads before moving on to another step, but I forgot my computer that day)


    Go ahead and laugh, I don't mind. I don't get easily offended. Also don't get too worried. What I tend to do is put things in place and take pictures, text, recheck, and then get it right. And that is exactly what I did here.


    I have had people ask why not buy a beater and learn on it. Well, once I've learned I'm left with...a beater and some knowledge. Instead I decided to use the VAST amount of knowledge on this forum and others as my textbook. And when I am done I will have my dream car AND the knowledge. People take for granted how easy it is to look stuff up on youtube and such, but when I was a kid none of that existed. So it's time to learn. Don't worry, I am ignorant of cars for now, but I'm not an idiot. I'm not going to be putting anything together without direct influence from others and my friends "signing off" on it before I finish each part. But if a guy who knows THIS LITTLE about how a suspension should look can get it right, anyone can.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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  13. #49
    2bking's Avatar
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    You have the right attitude and a willing heart. Keep at it and every step will get you a little closer to the finished product. And if you want to learn a bit about fiberglass and body work try adding a flip top. It's like everything else, each step is simple but there are many of them.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  14. #50
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    I'm really looking forward to watching your build thread. I can relate...similar background but you have taken the step to purchase. I'm aspiring, but will get there some day...hopefully soon. Keep it up and know that you and the rest of the forum contributors are really doing a great service to us all.

  15. #51
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2bking View Post
    You have the right attitude and a willing heart. Keep at it and every step will get you a little closer to the finished product. And if you want to learn a bit about fiberglass and body work try adding a flip top. It's like everything else, each step is simple but there are many of them.
    Kevin and I are definitely talking. Your engineering of it blows my mind.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  16. #52
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevencj67 View Post
    I'm really looking forward to watching your build thread. I can relate...similar background but you have taken the step to purchase. I'm aspiring, but will get there some day...hopefully soon. Keep it up and know that you and the rest of the forum contributors are really doing a great service to us all.

    hey thanks, I really needed that. Sucks to be a noob sometimes but I don't have any type of ego so that helps. Now when it comes to baking I might have too much ego! ;-)
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  17. #53
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    One of the many things I appreciate about FFR and this forum is that you are allowed to be a noob and ask what some might say are stupid questions. Members here are very supportive, willing to help. I can now speak from experience that not all forums are the safe place that this one is!! Yes, you can do this, not because you have the knowledge but because you have the right attitude and the desire! Keep your sense of humor. I assure you that this will not be the last "funny install moment" that you will have! But it is all fun! Enjoy!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 10/14/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  18. #54
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    Kevin and I are definitely talking. Your engineering of it blows my mind.
    What continues to amaze me about 2BKing's engineering is how complex yet simple it really is. His re-purposing of the stock hinges is simply genius. You can do this . . . I did!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 10/14/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  19. #55
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Mitchell,

    Did you get the front shocks mounted correctly? Looks like you are missing a spacer there...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  20. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Mitchell,

    Did you get the front shocks mounted correctly? Looks like you are missing a spacer there...

    I did indeed. The finished product is above in the bottom picture.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  21. #57
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    So I am admittedly ignorant, but I am not an idiot.
    This is the most key statement I've heard from a "noob" to automobile repair... and especially automotive BUILDING!

    There is a very distinct difference between ignorant and idiot.
    One means you just don't know, but are capable & willing of learning.
    The other means you are incapable of learning.

    You forgot another "I" word... "intelligence". In its context around here, that means you are smart enough to stop, ask a question, and apply the results.

    I have to constantly remind myself not to take for granted my 45+ years of experience of wrenching, having a Dad that was a "wrench", and coming from a line of men who were incredibly "Mechanically Apt". (My Mom was 6mos. pregnant with me in the pits at Indy!) Others may have not been so fortunate.
    I read some of these posts and the little guy on this shoulder whispers "Oh my Gosh - this guy is building a car??"... then the guy on the other shoulder whispers "Hey, he doesn't know about this stuff, explain it to him!".

    (I make my living with my hands - and it's not by typing. I'm a tradesman. We as a society will be in a SERIOUS world of hurt in about a decade... why? - Nobody's coming up the ranks to fill the shoes of Journeymen in the trades. All the cool zoomie "tech" stuff is great - but you have to have a building to play with them in... and someone has to BUILD the building! I'll gladly "Pay It Forward" to a noob... they're not going to take my job - they're going to perpetuate it!) (OK, sorry to hijack, rant over)
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  22. #58
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    This is the most key statement I've heard from a "noob" to automobile repair... and especially automotive BUILDING!

    There is a very distinct difference between ignorant and idiot.
    One means you just don't know, but are capable & willing of learning.
    The other means you are incapable of learning.

    You forgot another "I" word... "intelligence". In its context around here, that means you are smart enough to stop, ask a question, and apply the results.

    I have to constantly remind myself not to take for granted my 45+ years of experience of wrenching, having a Dad that was a "wrench", and coming from a line of men who were incredibly "Mechanically Apt". (My Mom was 6mos. pregnant with me in the pits at Indy!) Others may have not been so fortunate.
    I read some of these posts and the little guy on this shoulder whispers "Oh my Gosh - this guy is building a car??"... then the guy on the other shoulder whispers "Hey, he doesn't know about this stuff, explain it to him!".

    (I make my living with my hands - and it's not by typing. I'm a tradesman. We as a society will be in a SERIOUS world of hurt in about a decade... why? - Nobody's coming up the ranks to fill the shoes of Journeymen in the trades. All the cool zoomie "tech" stuff is great - but you have to have a building to play with them in... and someone has to BUILD the building! I'll gladly "Pay It Forward" to a noob... they're not going to take my job - they're going to perpetuate it!) (OK, sorry to hijack, rant over)
    This is exactly the reason I decided to build this kit rather than get something else...this forum and the people on it. Thank you John. If I were to get a project car I could do nothing more than watch youtube or ask some friends, but that would be it. And in the end I would know more, but I would not be on the level of a car builder and I would have to do so much learning all over again. But I knew I could stand on the shoulders of the giants here and make it happen. Slow and steady wins the race.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  23. #59
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    Shocks (Front suspension cont.)

    Even though the manual DOES NOT say it, I needed two different sized bolts for my shock install. The TOP bolt is longer than the BOTTOM bolt. The top ended up being 3.25" and the bottom 2.75". Initially I did not realize this. As luck would have it I put the correct bolt in the top right off on the driver's side, but then the bottom bolt was too long, only I didn't know it. I put those in and went to the passenger side when this happened



    It was an easy fix, and I realized what had happened, but still. Also one of my nylon nuts was cross threaded and I had to go to the hardware store to replace it. But I got the chocks installed nicely and torqued down.



    Now onto the Spindles.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  24. #60
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Spindles (front suspension cont.)

    So I installed the spindles today and it went fairly well. I do have to say I did not grasp the connection between the inventory and the manual until today though. I was reading through the manual and it just says to bolt the steering arms on, but doesn't say WHICH bolt to use. The manual has a picture of the process but the bolt looks different.



    These two bolts come in the box with the spindles, box 14 for me. The bolt on the right is called a 12 point bolt for obvious reasons. (I know it's goofy but I love learning the difference between a 12 point bolt and another bolt. It reminds me of being a kid and my dad asking for a tool that I didn't know what was what and he would teach me. I love this process) So the 12 point bolt says on the inventory that it is for the brakes specifically. It says something like "Spindle to disc" or something. So I know that one isn't right. The other is just a 50mm bolt that I have four of, but it IS listed under the front suspension and PACKED with the spindles, so these are the ones to use. My concern was that the hub would scrape against it because the head looks SO large. I put it in and from one angle it looks dicey.



    But I looked at it from the top and it looks like I have PLENTY of room. I wanted to ask on here before I torque it up though to make sure.



    I did have a generic question as well. Am I supposed to use thread locker on any bolts that are torqued, and if so WHICH thread locker? I read on here that I was but wanted to explicitly ask.
    Here is my not finished spindle but what I have so far.



    Notice the white paint on the upper ball joint? Who knows where I read it FIRST so I can't give credit, but I have done this on every part that is torqued for TWO reasons. One is so I can tell if it moves but two is so I know it has been torqued correctly.
    Once I get the go ahead from either you all or my friends I will torque it all down and put the hubs on next.

    One word about my process. I am going slightly out of order. I have not drilled any of my aluminum panels yet except for the two F panels. The reason is because I wanted to get to the point of being able to see real "I can see I am building a car" progress. Drilling out all the aluminum would not give me the look I desired, so I am putting it off. I remember looking through build threads and seeing the front and rear brakes on and thinking it was amazing that someone had built that, so I have that goal. Once I am done with the front though I think I will feel good enough to stop and move onto my aluminum. I looked through build threads and read the manual and don't think I am causing any problems for myself now or later by putting off the drilling and fitting. These two parts aren't connected. If I am wrong I am sure someone will correct me.

    Last but not least my gas tank came in today so that was exciting. Now the ONLY thing I am lacking (that I am aware of) is my steering wheel.

    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  25. #61
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    Am I supposed to use thread locker on any bolts that are torqued, and if so WHICH thread locker? I read on here that I was but wanted to explicitly ask.
    If the nut is a Nylok nut, no, don't use thread locker. The thread locker damages the nylon. If the nut is a self locking nut (kind of looks like the hole is slightly triangular at one end where it has been compressed slightly) no thread locker is generally necessary. Unless specifically instructed, and then with great fear and trepidation, do not use RED Loctite! Once that stuff hardens, the only way to break it loose is to apply high heat from a torch. I use Blue Loctite on almost everything else because I am a former Harley rider . . . if you didn't put Blue Loctite on, it would vibrate off! Several manufacturers make the stuff, but the colors remain the same. I find it is cheap insurance.

    I learned a great trick from the great EdwardB. After you have fully torqued a bolt to specification, apply a small dot of paint from a a paint pen to show that this bolt or nut is correctly tightened and double checked. I bought a fire engine red paint pen at my local crafts store. It works great!

    I think your bolts will be OK. The rotors will be close, but not touching. Here is how mine looked:

    Last edited by Jazzman; 09-20-2018 at 12:42 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 10/14/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  26. #62
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    2nd the above...

    Loctite Red is only used on "Lunar Landing Mission Critical" or specifically called out fasteners. As stated it is a total bytch to get loose and heat or SERIOUS tools required to get it loose.

    If a fastener/assembly has a Nylok nut - no additional means are needed.
    If a fastener/assembly uses a flat-washer & lock-washer - no additional means are needed.
    If the fastener/assembly is a taper-seat fluid connection - no additional means are needed.
    If the fastener/assembly is not a "life safety" item - no additional means are needed.

    The Loctite crap was invented only about 20 years ago. There are billions of fastenings in use without it... and you'll cuss yourself out a few years down the road trying to crack something loose that really didn't need it. There are exceptions... such as if something has too tight of clearance for "conventional" means, and drop of Loctite will solve the problem - but don't get crazy with the "blue goo".
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  27. #63
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Drilling out all the aluminum would not give me the look I desired, so I am putting it off. I remember looking through build threads and seeing the front and rear brakes on and thinking it was amazing that someone had built that, so I have that goal. Once I am done with the front though I think I will feel good enough to stop and move onto my aluminum. I looked through build threads and read the manual and don't think I am causing any problems for myself now or later by putting off the drilling and fitting. These two parts aren't connected. If I am wrong I am sure someone will correct me.
    You're not causing any problems, but you are going to hit a stage in the build soon where the tins will need to be in place for the "interference factor". You'll be running a line for a system (wiring/fluid/whatever) and you need to know where a cockpit panel is going to be in the way...

    (I've drilled just about all of my holes in the tins... and have about 100 Cleco's that are circulating around the car as I tack a panel back on/off to check things. The manual is a good guide, but not 100% perfect. You do need to think ahead a bit, and page ahead a bit in the manual. Anywhere in the manual that states "Drill an access/grommet/hole/etc." in a panel is a warning flag. It's a whole lot easier to drill that panel on the bench than after it's been riveted to the car.

    My Thoughts:
    Linkage
    Linkage
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  28. #64
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    You're not causing any problems, but you are going to hit a stage in the build soon where the tins will need to be in place for the "interference factor". You'll be running a line for a system (wiring/fluid/whatever) and you need to know where a cockpit panel is going to be in the way...

    (I've drilled just about all of my holes in the tins... and have about 100 Cleco's that are circulating around the car as I tack a panel back on/off to check things. The manual is a good guide, but not 100% perfect. You do need to think ahead a bit, and page ahead a bit in the manual. Anywhere in the manual that states "Drill an access/grommet/hole/etc." in a panel is a warning flag. It's a whole lot easier to drill that panel on the bench than after it's been riveted to the car.

    My Thoughts:
    Linkage
    Linkage
    I second what John said. For example, you’ll need to put in your brake hard lines soon. I just ran my rear line and you really need to have your DS foot panels drilled and assembled to see where the tube feeds through. If you are going to have any of your panels powdercoated, might want to drill beforehand as well.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  29. #65
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I've noticed you also bolted the steering arms onto the spindles... potential "Gotcha" moment here, and you'll not be the 1st to get bit by it!

    It is stated in the manual, and if you've carefully read the instructions you'll be OK - but (ain't there always a "but".)

    The steer arms go on the wrong side of the car as they are cast/stamped/marked. The "DSS" part goes on the passenger side, the "PSS" part on the driver's side.
    ** A quick & easy check is that small side of the tapered hole for the tie-rod should be up, and the larger hole should be down.**
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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  30. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    I've noticed you also bolted the steering arms onto the spindles... potential "Gotcha" moment here, and you'll not be the 1st to get bit by it!

    It is stated in the manual, and if you've carefully read the instructions you'll be OK - but (ain't there always a "but".)

    The steer arms go on the wrong side of the car as they are cast/stamped/marked. The "DSS" part goes on the passenger side, the "PSS" part on the driver's side.
    ** A quick & easy check is that small side of the tapered hole for the tie-rod should be up, and the larger hole should be down.**

    I saw in the manual that it states the spindles are stamped, one DSS and the other PSS, but that is for the hot rod I think, and that it should be reversed on the Roadster. I didn't see that on the steering arms, so I will make that the first thing I check tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up!
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
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  31. #67
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    If I recall correctly the spindles aren't designated side-to-side, just the steering arms.

    Edit:
    Ignore the above - there are L & R - as the brake calipers need to be aft on the car.

    However
    I scrolled up to your pic of the DS spindle. Unless the camera angle is playing with me, it does appear you have the steer arms on the wrong side of the car. It looks like the larger opening of the tie-rod end hole is up.
    Last edited by Fixit; 09-21-2018 at 09:58 AM. Reason: Clarification
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
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  32. #68
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    Steering Arms (front suspension cont.)

    Thanks to John (Fixit) for pointing this out I was saved a TON of trouble. It is by sheer luck that my steering arms are installed correctly, but I want others to avoid the problem from the start. ON page 44 it will tell you the spindles are marked for the hot rod and that you are supposed to install the driver's on the passenger side and vice versa,

    THEN on page 46 it tells you to install the steering arms


    Notice it says to bolt them so the tie rod ends attach from the bottom, but if you are like me you don't know what that means. Thanks to John you NOW know that it means the tie rod end attachment hole is tapered and that the taper should be larger on the bottom and smaller on top.

    Like these above, you can see that the taper is larger on the bottom and smaller on top, but there is an easier way to see just looking at the steering arm itself.

    I have labeled them top and bottom so you can immediately see the difference. The bottom edge around the tapered hole is rough and uncut and the taper is quite evident, while the top edge has been cut or whatever, and the hole is noticeably smaller.

    So there you go.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
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  34. #69
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Mitchell,

    You're doing it right! Slow and steady, verify EVERYTHING if needed.

    Progress!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


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  36. #70


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    Good job Mitchell. In addition to the orientation of the taper it needs to be noted that the steering arms need to angle outward as they point forward (which appears to be the case in your photo!).

    Carry on, have fun and DO NOT hesitate to ask us when you are unsure!

    Jeff

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  38. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    I've drilled just about all of my holes in the tins... and have about 100 Cleco's that are circulating around the car as I tack a panel back on/off to check things. The manual is a good guide, but not 100% perfect. You do need to think ahead a bit, and page ahead a bit in the manual. Anywhere in the manual that states "Drill an access/grommet/hole/etc." in a panel is a warning flag. It's a whole lot easier to drill that panel on the bench than after it's been riveted to the car.
    I have nothing but upmost respect and admiration for our friend Mr. Fixit! However, I am also inherently cheap! I know there are a lot of folks who invest in cleco's, and clearly they work well. I decided to reuse the 1/2" sheet metal screws that held the panels from the factory when I needed to temporarily hold panels in place as or after they are drilled. I never found a situation where the sheet metal screws were not adequate for my purposes. Saved me a few bucks on clecos. Just my opinion.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

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  40. #72
    Junior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    I'm just wondering how doddmoore got an assembly manual with color photo's. I took delivery of my MKIV last Friday but my manual has black and white photo's. Sheez

  41. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kool AC View Post
    I'm just wondering how doddmoore got an assembly manual with color photo's. I took delivery of my MKIV last Friday but my manual has black and white photo's. Sheez
    He's a VIB: A Very Important Baker!! I believe if you buy the electronic version of the manual it has color photos.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

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  42. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kool AC View Post
    I'm just wondering how doddmoore got an assembly manual with color photo's. I took delivery of my MKIV last Friday but my manual has black and white photo's. Sheez
    I get printing super cheap through my business so I had it done. AND I didn't know a printed copy would come with the kit, but I still like mine better. Color pictures and one page per sheet rather than front and back. My first mod. Hahahaha
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
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  43. #75
    Junior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Yes, have had the electronic manual for month's and it is in color. Had thought of printing it out but the cost was prohibitive. Good luck with your ongoing build Mitchell. Your right Jazzman, everybody likes a baker. Followed your build from the beginning, took guts to do the fliptop and came out absolutely stunning.

    Doug

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  45. #76
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    Bolt Clearance (front suspension cont.)

    Just a quick post to show the clearance on those HUGE bolts that held the steering arm. There is actually plenty of clearance once it's all done, it just didn't look like it from the beginning.

    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
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    Slow and steady wins the race.

  46. #77
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I have nothing but upmost respect and admiration for our friend Mr. Fixit! However, I am also inherently cheap! I know there are a lot of folks who invest in cleco's, and clearly they work well. I decided to reuse the 1/2" sheet metal screws that held the panels from the factory when I needed to temporarily hold panels in place as or after they are drilled. I never found a situation where the sheet metal screws were not adequate for my purposes. Saved me a few bucks on clecos. Just my opinion.
    Thank you for the kind words.
    I'll also make a dollar "Cry Mama"... but I'll also pry open the wallet for a tool/gizmo that saves time. Cleco's are one of them. Screws will work just fine, but my Carpal Tunnel doesn't like them!
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  47. #78
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    Front Brakes (front suspension cont.)

    I got the front brakes and rotors done. I went with the Wilwood option. I know many others have opted for hydraulic brakes but I'm not going to be taking this on the track and the guys I've talked to haven't had any problems stopping the car even with Mustang donor brakes. All personal preference of course. It was a pretty straightforward process using the Wilwood supplied instructions. The only thing I would mention that wasn't in the manual (I may start writing supplemental pages for the manual, it is sorely lacking for those with little experience. It expects you to know a lot more than I do. Maybe I should take that as a sign, but I am WAY too stubborn for that) anyway, the only thing the manual and Wilwood instructions won't tell you is the bolt used to attach the Calipers to the spindles is the 12 point bolt FF supplies, NOT the same size hex head bolt supplied by Wilwood.



    Other than that the exploded diagram in the Wilwoods is quite helpful. I love me an exploded diagram. Now that my front brakes are done I will move on to the aluminum panels. I have found a local powder coater that I am planning on sending them off to once they are drilled out. From all I have read it is the best option. No need spending all this time on something that isn't going to look great or hold up well.

    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
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    Slow and steady wins the race.

  48. #79
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Not to be a smart a&&, but now that your front suspension is all attached, how do you plan to powder coat the F panel that is riveted behind the suspension?
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 10/14/2018

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  49. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Not to be a smart a&&, but now that your front suspension is all attached, how do you plan to powder coat the F panel that is riveted behind the suspension?
    I don't. I'm going with powder coat that is really close to the paint I used. I've seen it in the guy's shop and it looks great. I'm going to mask my frame up and gloss the F panel with several coats of automotive enamel. It won't match but it will be super close.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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