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Thread: TONKS 347 the Baker's Build

  1. #1
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    TONKS 347 the Baker's Build

    Hey there folks. Well, the car came in, and among all of the smiles and handshakes and well wishes the reality never really sank in, but it has now. I have A LOT of work to do, but I am looking forward to every bit. I'm pretty good at making mistakes, but I always own them, so I am pretty sure this will be no different. What I am hoping to do is to give some confidence to guys like me, guys who have NOT worked on cars much but who love them. I didn't grow up working on cars because my dad wasn't a car guy, but I have always loved them. There are probably plenty of guys who don't know the difference between a tie rod and a ball joint, and if so I hope they can read about all the mistakes I'm going to make and know that EVEN THEY can build their dream car. That is of course if I actually succeed. Time will tell.
    I own a couple of bakeries, hence The Baker's Build. AND I like alliteration.

    IMG_1201.jpg IMG_2229.jpg

    I did not chronicle my Body Buck build or my Chassis Dolly, but I can tell you I went with the body buck template from the manual, and added a shelf beneath it. My space is fairly small and I thought that would help with storage. Boy am I glad I did that. You can see everything except my wheels and seats fit on the buck, so that is great help with my space. I even have my Wilwoods on there on the other side. I am a talker so expect my posts to be long. Sorry in advance.
    Coming soon...INVENTORY! I know most guys hate it, but I am a lover of spreadsheets so I am actually looking forward to it. Thanks for all the support so far, I am over the moon.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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  3. #2
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Congrats! Looks like a pretty nice work space to me. Inventory can get a bit tedious with all of the nuts, bolts and other small doodads, but you'll certainly get intimate with the car. I just started mine a couple weeks back as well. Look forward to your build!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

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  5. #3
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    Congrats. I'm still waiting for my delivery. What was your kit completion date (mine is 8/18), so I know approximately when to expect the truck?

    Best of luck with the build. I'm in the same boat with the lack of experience under the hood. I'm counting on lots of help from others that are also struggling/struggled to put one together. I look forward to your posts (hoping for minimal mistakes).

    Gary

  6. #4
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Congrats! It looks like you have a great area to work. Plenty of room and light. Enjoy the ride!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  7. #5
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gkp200 View Post
    Congrats. I'm still waiting for my delivery. What was your kit completion date (mine is 8/18), so I know approximately when to expect the truck?

    Best of luck with the build. I'm in the same boat with the lack of experience under the hood. I'm counting on lots of help from others that are also struggling/struggled to put one together. I look forward to your posts (hoping for minimal mistakes).

    Gary
    My completion date was July 7, and my delivery date was August 7, so if you are using Stewart transportation I would expect a one month lead time until delivery.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    Congrats! It looks like you have a great area to work. Plenty of room and light. Enjoy the ride!
    Thanks Yama! One odd question, For my build thread do I just continue to reply to these messages or is there a way I post a new message to the same thread? I’m not very good with the forum yet.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  10. #7
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    INVENTORY

    All I can say is you eat an elephant one bite at a time. You can try to hurry it, but in the end you just won't make it. PLUS, I keep reminding myself that I am building a car that I will drive and I don't want to die. So I'm taking my time with the inventory. I open each box, which usually has a crazy mix of things: parts, hardware, gas cap, whatever. Boxes 1 and 2 are below
    IMG_0690.jpg IMG_3806.jpg
    Like I said, I don't want to die, so I am laying out the parts, counting, measuring, using my Thread Checker to double check.
    IMG_4196.JPG
    Each part is wrapped in really nice heavy paper. I read on another thread that someone saved their paper to use on the aluminum panels to make a template for the heat suppression sheets or whatever you may put on the panels. I am saving the paper then, especially the large sheets, to use for just that. I can lay them against the panels, mark, and use to cut out my Thermo Tec or whatever I get.
    IMG_6245.JPG
    I'm at the pace of about a box a day, that is all the time I have right now, but even that is fun. I'm also building a spreadsheet of each part and what box it is in. Part of me wants to take a photo of each part (yes I am that kind of guy) so I am contemplating that. I wouldn't mind having a visual inventory of each part and what it looks like. Like I said, that's just the kind of guy I am. I won't post every box, but just wanted to give the people who haven't done it an idea of what to expect.
    Oh one last thing, I printed my own copy of the manual, but a printed copy came with it. I like mine more, because it is single sided and in color, but just letting you know you don't have to go to that expense if you wnat a printed copy, they include one.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by doddmoore; 08-09-2018 at 03:51 PM.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  11. #8
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Looks like you are off to a great start. Solid inventory really helps. Spreadsheets are a great help too (I did at least three of them in my build for various purposes.)

    I definitely approve your transmission selection. Liberty gears will build a good one for you. I got the same type of package from a local provider. You will be happy with it. Do you plan to use the stock shiftier location? If so you are good to go. If you want to have the forward location for your shifter, you might want to talk to Liberty about putting in the forward control kit for you when they do the other mods. They will be into it already at that point.

    Smart to save the paper. It does come in handy. If you have the room, break down a few of the boxes and save them too. The cardboard can come in handy too!

    Take lots of photos!! They are helpful for your own reference, good for your build thread, and fun to go back and look at after your car is done.

    Now what are you doing here reading my gibberish? Go back and inventory!!!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 10/14/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

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    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Do you plan to use the stock shiftier location? If so you are good to go.
    I'm pretty sure yes. There is just something about that bent shifter that I like. I'm FAR from a purist, and can't stand them usually, but that shifter calls to me.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  13. #10
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    I'm a pretty visual guy. When we hire someone at the bakery we give them a learning style questionnaire to see how they best learn. I am mostly auditory, I learn through hearing, but also very visual. So for me to best envision my car I had a friend do some photoshopping on one of the photos on the website.
    Tonks side final.jpg
    It's not 100% but it is really close. The car will be dark emerald with silver fender stripes. (Those stripes are not just because they are cool, they are my homage to an amazing guy with a BEAST of a FF Cobra, slpro1207)
    Now back to inventory! And Spreadsheets!
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  14. #11
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    Boxes 6 through 13. We are really getting into some recognizable parts now. The windshield though was what made me happiest I have to say. It’s one of the parts that is going to go on near the end of the build, and it’s like getting a glimpse of your destination when you begin a long journey. Seeing the windshield, and knowing from all of you how difficult it is going to be to install, really made me feel good. I’ve also started a spreadsheet of parts and numbers and locations. It will be easier to find something if I can search a spreadsheet than looking through that manifest included with the kit.

    Box 14, power steering option. I heard it time and time again, go with the power steering. Power brakes are not really needed from what I have read. A hydraulic clutch is nice but again not a necessity. But the power steering, that is a near necessity.

    So that brings us to…(insert Jaws theme)…BOX 15, THE WIRING HARNESS!! Gasp!
    IMG_4258.jpg
    I am NOT electronically inclined, and the wiring scares the bejeezus out of me. But I have to say I took one look at this Ron Francis harness and my fears just melted away. A bit. It looks like a really well made harness, and it is so EASY to follow. Just looking at the picture above you can see the wiring is already divided up to where it should go and clearly labelled. So after all my worry, and all the people here telling me it wasn’t nearly as big a deal as I thought, turns out you were right all along. I’m doing this to learn after all, and this is now something I am looking forward to learning.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  15. #12
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    You and I have talked on Facebook quite a bit on messenger. I look forward to following a fellow 347 build. There is just something about a stroked lightweight power plant and these cars. Goodluck brother, I really look forward to your build. You have a great mix of drivetrain and parts to make a great build.

    Brandon
    F5R9196 Hand built 347 475hp EFI | T5Z | LSD 3.73 3-link | Power Steering | Power Brakes | Vintage Air | 315/35ZR17 & 275/40ZR17 NT555

    "Iíve been watching your build with admiration (this guys got his sh*t together). You just took it to a whole new level. " ~David Hammer

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  17. #13
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    So for me to best envision my car I had a friend do some photoshopping on one of the photos on the website.
    Tonks side final.jpg
    It's not 100% but it is really close. The car will be dark emerald with silver fender stripes. (Those stripes are not just because they are cool, they are my homage to an amazing guy with a BEAST of a FF Cobra, slpro1207)
    Now back to inventory! And Spreadsheets!
    I love the color combo!! I really never considered any greens, but I love a nice emerald metallic or pearl. Those stripes are really cool looking. Different from everyone else. You just know I am going to support that!!
    Last edited by Jazzman; 08-11-2018 at 12:31 AM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 10/14/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

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  19. #14
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    Tonks side final.jpg
    It's not 100% but it is really close. The car will be dark emerald with silver fender stripes. (Those stripes are not just because they are cool, they are my homage to an amazing guy with a BEAST of a FF Cobra, slpro1207)
    Welcome to the party. Thanks for sharing youíre build with us. Love the paint scheme. My first car was a Datsun 510 so I grew up with the BRE Datsun race teams on the 70ís. I have a thing for those fender stripes. And you can never argue with green on a roadster. Keep plugging along.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  20. #15
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Welcome to the party. Thanks for sharing you’re build with us. Love the paint scheme. My first car was a Datsun 510 so I grew up with the BRE Datsun race teams on the 70’s. I have a thing for those fender stripes. And you can never argue with green on a roadster. Keep plugging along.
    -Steve
    Thanks Steve. Having a blast so far!
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  21. #16
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    I am still working on the inventory, just two boxes away, but I had a friend who could help me today so I decided to take the body off and set it on the buck. We started by taking off the doors, hood, and trunk. The hood wasn't attached but the doors and trunk were. The manual says they are attached with 5/8ths buts but mine were 9/16ths. I unbolted them from the chassis and set them aside. The manual just says to unbolt the quickjacks, but there are other attachments. There were four bolts at the back that were 1/2" so we took them off next and put them on a board.
    Bolts board use.jpg
    I have no idea if I will ever need them again or if it will matter which was which, but I did this anyway just in case.
    I saw Edd China do this on Wheeler Dealers, my all time favorite show, and so I decided to keep things organized as well. I'm a "better safe than sorry" kind of guy I guess. After taking off all four bolts things started falling out from under the rear bumper. Come to find out there are spacers under there as well. When I looked underneath I saw this Spacer use.png
    Again, not knowing if I will need these ever again at this point I saved them
    Spacers stored use.jpg
    Finally I realized I should look more carefully under the car to make sure ALL of the attachment points are located. Two screws attached each side under the body. side screws.JPG
    and in addition to the quickjacks up front there is a brace attached to the body.
    Brace .jpg
    Not knowing what it was or if I needed it later, but not wanting it to scratch up my powder coating I took it off and labeled it too.
    DS brace labeled.jpg
    Confident that the body was no longer attached to the frame we went to remove it. The body kind of scoops underneath the frame on the sides and we could get one side off but when we went to lift the front and back the side would drop down and catch under the frame again. We took two clamps and pulled the body away from the frame, clamping the frame so the body couldn't scoot back underneath and get locked again.
    clamps on frame.JPG
    We were then able to lift the body and get it on the buck.
    Body on buck.jpg
    It wasn't difficult in the whole, but I made it as difficult as possible apparently. Tomorrow I will be by myself again so I can finish the inventory and start marking and labeling the aluminum panels. I have ordered a pair of Cleco pliers and a bag of 1/8' clecos. Looking forward to getting all the panels labeled and drilled. Should it be this fun already?
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  22. #17
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Welcome to the madness! Just to confirm, unless you're planning on making changes, everything used to attach the body to the frame from the factory is intended for use later. Those aren't shipping parts. Including the split spacers, bolts, the brackets on the front, etc. In fact the location and order of the split spacers on the four corners is pretty important. Hopefully you kept them together and in order.

    Regarding body on/off, to remove: Pull the sides out so the wraparound under the doors clears from underneath, lift the back over the trunk sides while still holding the sides apart so they clear the door hinge area. Once the back and sides are clear (back held high) slide the whole body forward and unhook from the nose. Then it will lift the rest of the way off. To install, same idea in reverse. Hook nose over first, pulls sides apart, drop over the back.

    Hope that helps. Have fun and good luck!
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-18-2018 at 09:16 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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    doddmoore's Avatar
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    I had a feeling I would need those parts. Yes, everything is kept, labeled, and organized. It’s a win!
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  24. #19


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I've missed this until now but will start following along on your journey. Enjoy it and good luck

    Jeff

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  26. #20
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    I've missed this until now but will start following along on your journey. Enjoy it and good luck

    Jeff
    I'm a bit starstruck you guys. Jazzman, Jeff Kleiner, and EdwardB. Holy smokes. I am actually thinking of bringing my car to you Jeff to paint, and then driving it back to MS when it is all done. I'm doing this to learn so I kind of want to do the body work myself, but I also want it to look great, so I don't want to do the bodywork myself. I'll figure it out.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  27. #21
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    I'm a bit starstruck you guys. Jazzman, Jeff Kleiner, and EdwardB. Holy smokes. I am actually thinking of bringing my car to you Jeff to paint, and then driving it back to MS when it is all done. I'm doing this to learn so I kind of want to do the body work myself, but I also want it to look great, so I don't want to do the bodywork myself. I'll figure it out.
    You are allowed to be starstruck by Jeff Kleiner and EdwardB. I know I was!! But there really is no need to be. They are two of the nicest, most helpful, most giving people that you will ever have the pleasure of meeting. Jeff even worked on my car at the Huntington Beach Cruise in this year! It was both embarrassing and thrilling all at once!! They are both as friendly and "real" as they can be. I truly feel like these two men have been my guardian angels through my build. Each of them have both publicly and privately encouraged and corrected my work. It was greatly appreciated and an example of how I will try, in my own limited way, to pay that gift forward. But there is absolutely no need to put me anywhere near their stratospheric level! It's going to take me a decade to get to know even 20% of what these guys know. But I am working on it!!

    I have seen some of Jeff Kleiner's work, and I know you would be very pleased with the result. I might have taken my car to him if I was not 2/3 of the way across the country from him!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 10/14/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  28. #22
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    This is just a bit early for you, but I wanted to get it in your thread while I am thinking about it. The footbox on these cars is quite tight. I am only 5'9", but even after moving the seats back and customizing them, I still have to push the gas pedal with my foot laid sideways on the floor. Before you get to the point of installing your DS footbox panel on the engine side, do some research on the forums about a modification to the inboard footbox panel. It changes the location of the corner that your knee will lean against and will provide more room to the right of the gas pedal for your foot. I can't find the thread right now, but if I do, I will add it to this post. Contact 2BKing about this. I think he was the one who originated the modification.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 10/14/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  29. #23
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    doddmoore - I'm enjoying your build thread and it's great prep for me (given I'm a real beginner) as i wait for the arrival of my car. I feel i'm learning a lot from you experiences that'll help me out - thanks a lot for sharing! Even seeing little things like how you are putting bolts in a labeled board and recording their order while taking off the body. Thanks!
    pete

  30. #24
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    Thanks Pete! I guess my slogan is “if I can do it, anyone can.“ Of course I haven’t done it yet, but I am in the process. I love these cars and automotive engineering in general. But life gets in the way of learning things you are interested in sometimes. I waited too long to correct that. I know there have got to be guys like me out there who wish they could change their own spark plugs or brakes or do a transmission flush. I think we all can, but no one has shown us how. That’s why am so grateful to the guys on this forum for showing me how. I’m hoping that other Noobs can learn along with me. Maybe that should be my slogan “the build thread for Noobs by a Noob.”
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  31. #25
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    I'm done with the inventory and getting ready to take the panels off. My panels are not very well put on to be honest. They are on, but not even and will require quite a bit of movement to get them in the right spot. That said, I know we are supposed to take them off completely and then put them back on, and now I see why. I started by taking WAY TOO MANY PICTURES, and then labeling each picture with the aluminum panel name and number from the manifest. I also drew with a sharpie on each panel where it met another panel or the frame. In addition I wrote "O" or "U" on all seams where two panels met. The O stands for Over and the U for Under, so I will know when I am putting it back on which goes over which. If there was ever a question from the angle of the photo which panel went on top of which, I put my finger on the over panel for the picture. Hopefully when it comes time to put them back on all this work will be worth it. I am betting it will.

    asst aluminum seams.jpg

    You can't tell much from this picture, but I am just giving you an idea of the pictures I took. I took in total 52 pictures of seams. Under the car, inside each footbox, etc.

    over under.png

    Here I am showing my future self which panel went on top of which.

    Also my clecos came in. I can DEFINITELY see the reason you guys use these. Imagine riveting a panel in only to find you have to take it out again. Ugh. Thankfully I stand on the shoulders of giants so I can see what some others couldn't. No drilling out rivets for this guy. (I hope)

    I'm taking almost the whole week off from work this coming week to work on the car, I can't do too much because my backorder list includes upper control arms and my gas tank, but there is still TONS I can get done waiting for those. The plan is to get my panels drilled and deburred, and clecoed into place. I still haven't wired my brakes yet. (safety wire) I also emailed FF about what I was missing from the kit that was marked as included. Not too much, but a few items. It's to be expected I'm sure with this many parts.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
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  32. #26
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    My FIRST stall.

    I have not received my front control arms, they are on my backorder list, but I wanted to get something done today since I had the time. The PLAN was to put the rear brakes on the rear axle and install the axle. I had a friend that could help later in the day. I read through the manual as well as a couple of build threads and thought I had a handle on it. I removed the diff cover and the RTV, and went to remove the 8mm bolt that holds the retaining pin.
    8mm bolt.jpg
    (NOT my image, just using it to show you the bolt)

    It won't budge. I used a cheater bar to get more leverage and felt the wrench move a bit, but it wasn't the bolt moving, but *almost* rounding. If I had tried again it would have stripped for sure. I am going to put some type of penetrating fluid on it tomorrow or even use heat to get it to break free. I don't want to mess this part up. I know I can order another bolt but I don't want to damage the threads. Would penetrating fluid or heat be best, or am I just doing something wrong?
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
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  33. #27


    Not a waxer
    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    If it was assembled using a thread locking compound on the pin heat will be most effective.

    Jeff

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  35. #28
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    *UTTER FAILURE*

    I think I mentioned earlier that I was having trouble with the 8mm bolt that held in the retaining pin on my Moser rear axle. I emailed Moser as well and they confirmed it was installed with a thread locker. They recommended a penetrating fluid and an impact wrench. Not only did that not work the bolt is now rounded IMG_4546.jpg and I don't have the faintest idea how to remove it. A mechanic friend mentioned hammering a smaller 5/16 socket on it so that was also attempted with no success. I have already ordered a new bolt so that part is done, but I do not know what to do from here.
    Last edited by doddmoore; 09-01-2018 at 04:06 PM. Reason: words
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
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  36. #29
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    propane torch and get it hot. use an ez-out socket and it will come out. they are designed to bite in as you turn anti-clockwise. if you have air tools notch it with a cut-off wheel then blip it with an air chisel. I don;t recommend the latter if you never did it before. best of luck. just remember heat is the key here as it looses the thread-locker. if moser used red then you must heat the hardware to remove it.

  37. #30
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    I'm not sure if you have room for it in there, but I have one of these Gator Grip sockets and it works pretty good for things like this. I would say, use the heat as suggested and this tool together and you should get it out of there. (if it will fit) CLICK HERE

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  38. #31
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    I've tack welded a nut onto another stripped nut before so that I could get a wrench on it. Some have had luck with JB weld as well, but not sure how it would react with heat.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  39. #32
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    (This is what Malloy was mentioning)
    propane torch and get it hot. use an ez-out socket and it will come out. they are designed to bite in as you turn anti-clockwise.
    These things have saved my butt more than once (usually on stuff that's rusted beyond recognition, but...)
    Damaged Bolt Extractors

    The bolt is already Fubar'd, so you can't do anymore damage. These sockets are cut with a LH spiral that bites harder the more effort applied.
    As said, you'll need to use heat to break the loctite, and it helps by expanding the metal.

    ** Before using the above**
    I don't know what clearance is available in there, but maybe... That looks like a 3/8" or 10mm.
    Get a 6-point impact socket - either SAE or Metric and hammer that on. They're a bit beefier, but it might not fit in there.
    If you can apply torque and smack it at the same time all the better.

    If this fails, the next steps are pretty drastic. The bolt will come out, but I don't know your skill-set or tool kit!
    Last edited by Fixit; 09-03-2018 at 07:19 AM. Reason: Another Idea popped to mind
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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  40. #33
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    No. Better. Feeling...than seeing that bolt start to move. I used the bolt extractor socket rated for my impact wrench, but I didn't need the impact wrench. Once I could get a grip on it it finally started to move. No heat was needed but I had sprayed some penetrating fluid in it yesterday so that possibly could have helped. Here it is along with the U-joint socket I used Bolt extractor.jpg
    It is out which is all I care about, and the new one should be in any day now. I do have a question about what looks like some debris or dirt in the diff here Debris.jpg If you look down in there you can see something. I didn't want to try and brush it out without checking on the best way to do that. Compressed air? Lint rag?
    So now that I have this beautiful spot where that bolt USED to be, and I am ready to keep moving. ALSO a big box came in today from Factory Five, but I haven't opened it yet. It may be some or most or all of my backorder stuff. I'll let you know tomorrow. In the meantime I'm going to dream about this gorgeous sight 8mm hole.jpg
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
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  41. #34
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    dancenana.gif

    That's Great!!
    I'd get a small "magnet on a stick" and probe around in there - it'll pick up any metal shards. Then (staying away from the clutch pack) flush it out with some BrakeKleen or carb spray. Wipe it out with a lint-free rag and you're good to go.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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  43. #35
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    A bit more progress today.
    I started to install my rotors and get them torqued down and wired. I noticed the torque specs were in INCH pounds not FOOT pounds, and I noticed it just in time. Sometimes you skip over things like that. Once I adjusted that I put tape on the rotor to make sure I was tightening in a star pattern.
    Tape pattern.jpg
    I've been working on my safety wiring. It started out pretty mediocre if I'm being nice to myself, but after redoing it again and again I finally got them to look like this.
    Better wiring.jpg So I figured it was good enough to do the whole thing. After that I opened the BIG NEW BOX that came from Factory Five and found my lower control arms among other things. I can finally get back to following the order that things are supposed to be done in. So I put one control arm on, and the manual says the rear bushing is large so they include a washer to act as a spacer for the front, but I found that I needed a spacer on both the front AND the rear bushings. I wanted to see if that was OK before I torque everything down to spec. It fits perfectly with the spacer so it seems like a win, but it never hurts to check twice. Here are my spacers
    LCA Spacers.jpg
    Does that look alright to you guys? I didn't put it in but I set it in place and the driver's side doesn't seem to need the rear spacer, just this one. When the passenger side was done it looked like this
    Installed LCA.jpg If that looks good I will torque it down tomorrow. I remember one of the guys asking what the best part of the process was before I started my build. So far it seems like every part is great. The learning, (I now know what a pinion shaft locking bolt is) the skill growth, the people even. It's the whole dream come true thing.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
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  44. #36
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    Control arms not fitting

    I attached my passenger side lower control arm, and as the manual said there was a good bit of room between the bushing and the mount. I used a washer included for spacing on both the front bushing and the rear bushing, but THEN I go to mount the driver's side and no doing. There are several things at issue.
    1. There are two burrs left over from the drilling that are now powder coated, and they are big enough to keep the front bushing from sitting in the mount
    burrs.jpeg
    I have not put a measuring tape to this mount, but from what I saw I think there will be JUST enough room for it to fit but only if I can grind these down. Not happy about that but I guess you do what you have to. Even if I grind them down the bushing MAY not fit. I will put a measuring tape on it tomorrow and see what I am dealing with to be precise.
    Front bushing.jpg
    I asked on facebook and one of the guys said whatever I did to the passenger side as far as using the spacers (for me they are both on the front of each bushing)
    LCA Spacers.jpg
    then I needed to do the exact mirror image of that on the driver's side. That won't be possible as things are now, BOTH spacers provided will need to be used for the rear bushing on the driver's side. I have room to the front and back on that one bushing.
    Rear Bushing, front.jpg rear bushing, rear.jpg

    IF I can get the burrs ground down, there is no way the spacer is going to fit on that front bushing. No way.
    How important is it that the spacers are mirrored on each side?
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
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  45. #37
    edwardb's Avatar
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    First, knock those burrs off however necessary. File, Dremel, die grinder, whatever. Those parts are CNC plasma or laser cut, not sure which, not drilled. That's just some slag left over from the process. Agree probably shouldn't be there, but really no big deal. Just get that cleaned up.

    Agree it's technically best if spacers are the same on both sides, but I wouldn't be too worried if they're not. I'd suggest a sanity check and make sure both LCA's are the same width at the bushings. I've had them be slightly different, and they can be tweaked a bit if necessary. The tabs on the frame can also be tweaked slightly if needed. But in the end, get the spacers installed as necessary to get everything to fit. Whatever minor different there might be from side to side will be compensated for when the front end is aligned.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-07-2018 at 06:36 AM.
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  47. #38
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    yeahthat.gif

    Don't get all "knicker twisted" about this stuff... any discrepancies side-to-side can (and will) be taken care of in the final alignment.

    (One of the things I've noticed about some of the threads here is that the builders are expecting Swiss-watch/robotic/CAD/.001 tolerances on some of these parts. Ain't gonna happen. It's a bunch of steel that's clamped in a jig, and hand welded. Things move, heat distorts, but DAMN - the guys at FFR do a fabulous job.)

    If you've ever worked on a late-60s musclecar... restoring one, repairing one... you'll realize just how good you've got it working on an FFR frame. Those P.O.S's from the 60's were slammed together with a +/- 1/8" (or bigger) tolerance. A STACK of shims and a BFH were the norm, not the exception!

    Yes... question something that is clearly way out of whack - but if it's "just that close" do whatever's reasonable to get it to fit.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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  48. #39
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    I certainly hope I don’t come off that way. My unmentionables are completely untwisted. ;-) And I’m looking forward to every part of this John, even the grinding down of slag and everything in between.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
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  49. #40
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    You'll find that there are a few places where the tabs need to be spread a bit to allow a good fit. You can make a simple spreader tool with a piece of threaded rod and a couple of large washers and nuts.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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