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Thread: Mustang OEM 4-link vs 3-link Rear End

  1. #1
    Junior Member RonJon24's Avatar
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    Mustang OEM 4-link vs 3-link Rear End

    Couldn’t find any comparison in a quick search. Planning out my build and would like to hear from the forum the benefits vs cost of a 3-link vs. sticking with the donor 4-link rear suspension set up.

    I have a donor car and just need to convert it to 5-lug, not planning on making the upgrade to 3-link, but curious what everyone’s thoughts are on how much benefit the 3-Link and if it is really worth the extra cost.

    My current plan is to install the 4-link with the upgraded upper and lower control arms that I had on my Mustang, if I have a problem I would potentially update the uppers to the adjustable type.

    Let me know your thoughts.

  2. #2
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Easy decision, unless drag racing is your thing, get rid of the 4 link and go with the 3 link. Better ride and handling with the 3 link.

  3. #3
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    Much better suspension geometry with the 3 link. The 3 link is a major improvement over the 4 link in ride quality and handling. If the budget allows go with the 3 link. Or you can upgrade later if you decide to do so.
    Mk4, Moser M88 rear end, Eaton truetrak, Craft Racing 461 Windsor, MMR pro trans, Glenn’s 1,000 hp cobra fuel system and lots of other parts.

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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    3-link!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


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    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    No question 3 link is better. I have done it twice. The 4 link inherently binds when the car rolls. Ford made it work OK by using soft rubber bushings. When you stiffen up the bushings that really helps in a straight line. And it hurts in a corner. Sure wish I could find it but I have tried w/o luck. One of the major Mustang aftermarket companies made a mockup of a 4 link. The chassis attachment points were mounted on a wall. An axle was set in place on a support that would allow it to move like it would in a car. They started w/ OE control arms and the axle would roll pretty well. Then they started substituting aftermarket arms. Each new arm allowed less roll. The final test was all 4 arms w/ rod ends in them. That locked the axle in roll.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  6. #6
    Junior Member RonJon24's Avatar
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    Pulled the trigger on the change to 3-link!

    Thanks for the advice guys, went ahead and updated my order to 3-link since I am planning to track the car a little and I don’t want to feel too uncomfortable taking this thing around corners.

    Any other opinions here would be good as this is a great topic for anyone mulling over this decision.

  7. #7
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RonJon24 View Post
    Thanks for the advice guys, went ahead and updated my order to 3-link since I am planning to track the car a little and I don’t want to feel too uncomfortable taking this thing around corners.

    Any other opinions here would be good as this is a great topic for anyone mulling over this decision.
    Smart Move RonJon, Smart Move!

    Check Out My 3-Link Set Up Which Has No Fox Body Wheel Hop!

    https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA

    It's the standard set up with the Standard Koni Red Shocks.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 08-09-2018 at 11:14 AM.

  8. #8
    Member NiceGuyEddie's Avatar
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    I originally had the 4-link and Mustang spring setup. Even when going 15 mph around a turn on a sidestreet - it was weird, the rear end made funny sounds and it almost seemed as if the rear of the car was "hopping" around the turn.

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