ReinCarNation

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  4
Likes Likes:  1
Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Cranking to get oil pressure

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Saline, Mi
    Posts
    244
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cranking to get oil pressure

    Getting ready to do 1st start on 818 with 2002 WRX donor obtained from one of of our vendors. Redid water pumps , belt, but left oil pump alone.

    Can't get it to show any pressure on oil pressure gauge with sender in sandwitch adapter mounted to oem oil cooler. Tried several times cranking as long as 30 secs.
    Plugs out so cranks fast. OP gauge works. New STI oil pan and pickup. One would think of missing o ring in pan but I believe I did that correct.

    Any one else have long cranking times to get oil pressure. I know g-rotor pumps can be fussy. Ideas??

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    DFW, Texas
    Posts
    55
    Post Thanks / Like
    how long total have you cranked it? a few minutes? Make sure oil level is good. I'm pretty sure you need a different oil dipstick when you add the STi pan and pickup to a 2.0L.

  3. Thanks frankc5r thanked for this post
  4. #3
    Senior member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Carlsbad,Ca
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like
    I had to take the oil pump off and prime it, builders say it doesn't happen often ,but
    when it does.....worked for me.

  5. Thanks frankc5r thanked for this post
  6. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Saline, Mi
    Posts
    244
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Haar View Post
    I had to take the oil pump off and prime it, builders say it doesn't happen often ,but
    when it does.....worked for me.
    Did you use light grease or STP oil to prime??

  7. #5
    Senior member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Carlsbad,Ca
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like
    Don't remember , seems like anything heavier than regular motor oil would work.
    Good luck !

  8. Thanks frankc5r thanked for this post
  9. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    158
    Post Thanks / Like
    I had a very similar problem, I even used heavy weight motor oil. I ended up continually cranking the motor with a battery booster to get higher RPM's out of it. After quite a while I did get oil pressure.

    Is the motor freshly rebuilt? If so the assembly lube should protect it but if not then I guess there is a risk of damage after prolonged cranking but who knows how much that would take

  10. #7
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    1,332
    Post Thanks / Like
    Try removing your oil filter and cranking it - this is the first place where oil will be pushed into. If oil starts to flow, put the filter back on and crank again to see if you get pressure. If still nothing, you may have a bad oil pressure sensor. Typically, these are resistive sensors so you could also try checking it with a multimeter.

  11. #8
    Senior Member SixStar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Westminster, MD
    Posts
    637
    Post Thanks / Like
    All good information here. We sell about 300 engines a month and this happens 1:200 times I would say.

    The three proven methods are:
    Pack the oil pump with assembly grease, we use Driven
    Pre-lube the engine using a melling pot
    Release pressure/bleed the system by removing a plug, line, sensor, filter, etc.
    Owner/builder - AEM Intakes 818R #85

  12. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Saline, Mi
    Posts
    244
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for all the replies. Good info which helped fix it.
    Being new to Subaru and not knowing till after the problem that the pump is grotor, I took pump off donor but did not
    know to pack rotor area with assembly or other heavy
    oil. Thus I caused my own problem. The 1st thing I tried worked. I took a spare BIG battery, make 3 ft new 1/0 ,*cables direct to starter, preserved the car battery to suppy crank volt and pwr to all else like dash and op gauge. Then
    cranked it over, got much faster crank speed of op and after 30 sec light went out and had about 80 psi on gauge.
    Also had charger on external battery to maintain as much
    voltage as possible.
    Thanks for help. Group is priceless for builders
    frank

  13. #10
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Bend, Oregon
    Posts
    1,117
    Post Thanks / Like
    Glad you got it going!

    For future reference you can pre-lube the engine with a cheap DIY setup. A Home Depot sprayer, some tubing, and a 1/4" barb into 1/8" BSPT fitting. The fitting is the hardest part to source, so I sell them, I think I have one or two left.

    NOTE: Even doing this still requires several seconds of cranking to get the oil pressure up.

    -OR-

    Replace the oem Subaru block 1/8" BSPT fitting fitting with one that has an 1/8" NPT port. That way you can use a common 1/8" NPT to 1/4" barbed hose fitting available at HD/Lowes. And the best part is you can now put a oil pressure sensor or oil temp sensor with 1/8" NPT sensor in there. You will have to jump the oem oil pressure light switch connection. Don't worry, all this connection does is turn the gauge cluster oil pressure light on and off, it does not go to the ECU.

    The block adapter is M18 x 1.5 x 1/8"npt.

    I've tried several of them, so far the one I like the best is the Prosport PSNUT. Just be aware it comes with Teflon tape that you should remove and replace with high temp Permatex thread sealant.
    You can get the adapter here:https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...hreaded-center

    IAG sells the adaptor with a kit to remote mount the sensor so it will last longer: https://www.iagperformance.com/Prosp...p/psropkit.htm I think a few other vendors sell the same kit.


    Credit to Underdog on the LGT forum for posting the instructions, I've copied them over here:

    - 1 Gallon Multi-Purpose Sprayer - I used the HDX 1 Gal, which I purchased for $8.97 at Home Depot.
    hdx-sprayers-1501hdx-64_1000.jpg


    - Qty.1 Barbed Hose Fitting - 1/4" Barb to 1/8" BSPT - Your HD might not have this exact configuration (mine didn't), so get creative. The fewer connections the better. *Note the factory bung is threaded BSPT and not NPT. Do not use an NPT fitting here!*

    Assembly:

    1. Open the sprayer box.

    2. Remove the sprayer from the box.

    3. Install the sprayer hose and pump/handle.

    4. Do not install the trigger/wand assembly.

    To use:

    w71tePZ.jpg

    A. Remove the oil pressure switch from the galley plug adapter. This is located under the alternator in the front center of the engine.

    B. Thread in your barbed fitting until hand tight, then cinch it down lightly with a wrench. Do not overtighten as you will easily strip the brass fitting.

    C. Push the hose from the sprayer onto the barbed fitting.

    D. Fill the tank with a gallon of whatever oil you prefer.

    E. At this point I usually remove the oil filler cap and start pumping. This particular sprayer has a built-in pressure relief valve which seems to open at about 30PSI. (When I first tried this I plumbed in a gauge to see how much pressure was being created.)

    F. Keep the tank pressurized until it is nearly empty. Try not to let it run down completely as you don't want to push a bunch of air in after the oil. It's not hyper-critical, just keep an eye on it.

    G. This really doesn't even need to be a step... but if you are curious how the oil is flowing you can try cracking the turbo oil feed banjo bolt loose. The oil will come out very quickly, so be prepared.

    H. When you are done you can release the pressure on the tank and pull the hose off the barbed fitting. The pressure in the galleys will cause a little back-flow, so either cap it until the pressure bleeds off, or work quickly and replace your oil pressure switch to minimize spillage.

    I. You can install a filter in the pump line to be extra sure you get clean oil in your engine.

    J. This can also be used for filling trannys and differentials.

    Protip: Do this with the engine on the stand so you can easily spot any leaks, and fix them if necessary.

    There you go! Don't forget to check the dipstick before startup and after the engine is warm.
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
    Owner: Colonel Red Racing
    eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
    818R ICSCC SPM and HPDE Rental at Oregon Raceway Park
    2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM, NASA ST3
    Palatov DP4 - ICSCC & SCCA Sports Racer and HPDE Rental at Oregon Raceway Park

  14. Thanks biknman thanked for this post
    Likes biknman liked this post
  15. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Saline, Mi
    Posts
    244
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks. That is really good info, especially the
    metric to npt adapters.

  16. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    682
    Post Thanks / Like
    Or do what I did. Just don't tighten down the banjo bolt for the oil feed behind the timing cover. That way it purges itself and pukes a half quart all down the front of the engine and onto the garage floor. On second thought, don't do that. Don't do that at all. It sucks.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Lodestone Billetworks

Visit our community sponsor