BluePrint Engines

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  3
Likes Likes:  1
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 49

Thread: Power steering or not. Pros and cons

  1. #1
    BadAsp427's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    1,177
    Post Thanks / Like

    Power steering or not. Pros and cons

    I am completing my order and purchasing my kit. I’m really trying to decide whether I want to spend the extra money on the power steering upgrade as well as the upgrade on the engine for the power steering. I would love to hear some pros and cons for any of you who have driven both. Thanks

  2. #2
    Boydster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Maryville, TN
    Posts
    1,104
    Post Thanks / Like
    I had never driven a replica Cobra, or Roadster Kit, or whatever you'd like to call it before I started building mine. I did not like the idea of wide, low profile tires being pulled around during slow situations without power steering. Big engines, big brakes, big wheels and tires, manual steering?

    But some folks may like their car more simple and straight-forward. No issues, to each his own. Just MHO.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  3. #3
    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Kennebunkport, ME
    Posts
    1,192
    Post Thanks / Like
    Power steering a big plus IMHO. It's not to say that manual is an issue but PS just makes it a lot more comfortable to drive especially if you live in suburbia/city. Again it may be personal preference but it's an easy mod with the exception of getting the fittings nice and tight so no leaks.
    Kyle

    Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017. Sold in 08/2018 and totally regret it.

  4. #4

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
    GoDadGo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Slidell, Louisiana
    Posts
    6,555
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    I had the opportunity to drive both before ordering my kit and I went with the manual set up; however, I'm NOT going to be road racing nor Auto-Crossing, but will make few 1/4 mile passes.

    It really depends on what you want.

    Build Your Dream!

  5. #5
    Senior Member johnnybgoode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ottawa Ontario
    Posts
    254
    Post Thanks / Like
    Power steering also helps to take some of the shock out of the steering system e.g. when going over railroad tracks ect. Scott

  6. #6
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    O'Fallon, MO
    Posts
    3,068
    Post Thanks / Like
    Had both, would never go back to non-power steering. EVER!

  7. #7
    #9160 BB767's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Chehalis, WA
    Posts
    400
    Post Thanks / Like
    I only have a little over 300 miles on the car so far so take my comment lightly. My steering preference was so on the fence that I have parts for both. I went with the power set up with the thought that it would be easier to take something off than add it later if I changed my mind. So far I am a little disappointed that I went with the power. The road feel is much lighter than I expected and would prefer. It does drive great and is very easy to maneuver with power, but when going through the twisties I would like more feedback from the wheel that is just not there. As everyone will tell you, it is personal preference depending on what kind of driving you will be doing most. Someday in the future when it is cold and rainy outside I may just swap out the power rack for the manual one setting on the shelf. I am not sure how hard it would be to change out with the body and radiator on, can anyone comment on that?
    MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands

  8. #8
    slpro1207's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Moorpark, CA
    Posts
    300
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    3
    My first impression when I drove a roadster without was, “how could such a small light car be so hard to steer at slow speed.” To each his own but power steering make my driving experience so much nicer.
    MK4 delivered 2/24/2017. Complete kit #9023,IRS, Power Steering, Leather, heater, 17" wheels, sway bar ft & rr, tremec 600 and Gordon Levy Racing SBF 427. First start and go kart 8/19/2017. Graduated 1/15/2018
    MK4 #9230 complete kit delivered 1/27/2018. IRS, PS, leather, Tremic 600, SBF 427. Graduation 10/15/2018
    MK3 #5253 donor bought unfinished. SBF 331, T5 Trans.

  9. #9
    2bking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Garland, Texas
    Posts
    799
    Post Thanks / Like
    This has been discussed in many threads and there are a lot of opinions. One of the biggest arguments for power steering is the increased caster that can be used. The increased caster provides better stability at freeway speeds by reducing lane wonder. Power steering also makes parking and slow speed turns much easier. If either of these reasons are less important than road feel, then manual steering may suit you best.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  10. #10
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,000
    Post Thanks / Like
    It's no secret that edwardb and I are probably the top two proponents of power steering you'll find here. EVERY car I've built has it and EVERY one who asks me is advised to do it. People seem to think that it's all about steering effort, especially some of the "manly men" who like to do some chest thumping but the reality is that is far from the primary reason. Power steering allows you to run much more positive caster which promotes straight line stability and return to center as well as increasing camber gain while cornering. Plain and simple the car just drives down the road better. For autocross and track use it is pretty much mandatory if you really want to be able to get the most out of the car (some of those same manly men find out that there is no way they can truly hustle a manual rack car ). As far as "road feel" this can be tuned to the driver's preference either by the use of a Heidt's variable boost valve or by changes to the pressure relief spring.

    In the end...Just do it!

    Jeff

  11. #11
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Blacksburg, Va
    Posts
    4,707
    Post Thanks / Like
    I agree 100% w/ Jeff. I have bought two FFRs that were already on the road. The mkI had an un-powered power rack and it was terrible. Powered it up soon. Then my MkII had a proper manual rack as FFR supplied. I thought it would be interesting to see how a proper manual rack worked. Replaced it and added a pump about a month later.
    BB767, you can reduce the amount of assist in yours by cutting off a little of the spring in the pressure relief valve in the pump. Search the other forum since it goes back further in time for a spec. If you happen to cut a little too much you can shim it back w/ a few small washers.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  12. #12
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    10,545
    Post Thanks / Like
    Not much to add. I've too have had both. Won't ever not have PS. For the effort (which can be dialed in to be what you want) and the added caster. As Jeff said I'm one of the big supporters.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  13. #13
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Prescott, AZ; formerly from the Bay Area
    Posts
    829
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    Had both, would never go back to non-power steering. EVER!
    Same here!
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

  14. #14
    mburger's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Punta Gorda FL
    Posts
    1,146
    Post Thanks / Like
    Bought my Mk1 with manual steering. Added power steering. Would never go back for all the reasons already posted. I also added the Heidts valve to dial the assist where it is most comfortable for me.
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  15. #15
    Member FlyingCobra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    87
    Post Thanks / Like
    So here's another question I have on this. For those who've disliked the non power steering, what engines have you had in it? Part of why I'm going for the 302 (and aluminum heads) is to keep the weight down over the front end. My plan is no power steering because I want simple and I also want as few belt-driven accessories as possible. I'm thinking about an electric water pump even to achieve this goal.

    While the weight differences aren't huge engine wise, they mostly impact the front wheels. Has anyone noticed a difference there?

  16. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    165
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have the manual rack on mine electric power steering, works great and can be tailored to your liking

  17. #17
    Member FlyingCobra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    87
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by alv69 View Post
    I have the manual rack on mine electric power steering, works great and can be tailored to your liking
    Which electric power steering setup did you use? I've been thinking that's what I'd like to do if I go power...

  18. #18

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
    GoDadGo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Slidell, Louisiana
    Posts
    6,555
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by BB767 View Post
    Someday in the future when it is cold and rainy outside I may just swap out the power rack for the manual one setting on the shelf. I am not sure how hard it would be to change out with the body and radiator on, can anyone comment on that?

    NOTE:
    Remember that the caster angles are different for the manual vs power racks so a little allignment shop treatment will be needed.

  19. #19
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    SA-TX
    Posts
    620
    Post Thanks / Like
    Power.
    Like has been said, added caster can really make a car feel nicer to drive around town and Highways. You'll want power once start adding good amounts of caster.
    My power steering initially felt way too light also, until I did the cut-spring mod on the power steering pump. Now.. it's almost perfect. I think I'll take just a bit more off this fall though.
    IMO.. PS vs noPS came down a balance of two main items... How you'll use the car, and simplicity of the install.
    No Power is clean, simple, somewhat cheaper (unless you have donor parts already), and totally driveable. So, if you only drive your car off and on, here and there... I doubt no-power would be a big deal at all.
    I however drive my car a heck of a lot. I commute to and from work in it. I don't track it, and I autoX a few times a year. PS was kinda a no brainer for me.
    my 02c.

    P.s. If you DON'T want your wife to drive the car, go noPS. "Sorry dear, it's just too hard to drive!"
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

  20. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    165
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingCobra View Post
    Which electric power steering setup did you use? I've been thinking that's what I'd like to do if I go power...
    the kit the person in this thread sells.
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...power+steering

  21. Thanks FlyingCobra thanked for this post
  22. #21
    Member JRD56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Olathe, KS
    Posts
    94
    Post Thanks / Like
    I just finished my build (have about 1000 miles on the car) and went with Power Steering. Love it. I run a lot of caster and love the way it feels. I can take my hands off the wheel and the cars stays perfectly straight. I also run Hydra-boost braking which requires the power steering pump. The braking is excellent. I went with a donor set-up from a 2000 GT and the biggest cost was having new high pressure lines made. A lot us drive these cars around town a lot so power steering and power brakes make it more enjoyable. I have also done an autocross event and I got to think the power steering is a benefit to that. I would never consider manual steering. For what its worth.
    Purchased and un-assembled Mk3 in 2016. 5.0, Aluminum heads, Performer RPM Air gap, Quick Fuel 650 carb, BBK headers T5, 3.55 rear solid axle, Koni Shocks, PS with Hydra-boost. Also own two restored vintage Mustangs, two Model A fords, 1941 Chevy truck and several other hot rods.

  23. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    765
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingCobra View Post
    Which electric power steering setup did you use? I've been thinking that's what I'd like to do if I go power...

    Here's more food for that thought:

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ll-A-Part-EPAS

  24. Thanks FlyingCobra thanked for this post
  25. #23
    Junior Member RonJon24's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Brighton, MI
    Posts
    28
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just put my order in. Doing a donor so no reason not to bring it over from the PS from the mustang!

  26. #24
    Member FlyingCobra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    87
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by alv69 View Post
    the kit the person in this thread sells.
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...power+steering
    Quote Originally Posted by mike223 View Post
    Thanks! Very good info.

    My main reason against power steering was wanting things under the hood to be as simple as possible. This would solve that, so I'm adding it to my projects for the build.

    Similarly I am going to add heat and AC, but was thinking about a Masterflux compressor instead of the engine-driven. Really I want to have the alternator be the only accessory driven by the engine, I'm even planning an electric water pump.

  27. #25
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    679
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have had both, get the power steering. The rack, pump, lines, and polished hardware can be done for 400 dollars. Details in my build thread.

  28. #26
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    679
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingCobra View Post
    Thanks! Very good info.

    My main reason against power steering was wanting things under the hood to be as simple as possible. This would solve that, so I'm adding it to my projects for the build.

    Similarly I am going to add heat and AC, but was thinking about a Masterflux compressor instead of the engine-driven. Really I want to have the alternator be the only accessory driven by the engine, I'm even planning an electric water pump.
    Engine Masters on Motortrend on Demand just did an episode with what accessories use for horsepower on a typical 350 Cheby. The water pump was 3-5 horsepower. The Alternator under load was 10 horsepower. The verdict was keep the pump and accessories for reliability and street use. You are only losing 15 horsepower that you will never feel on the street and only the best racers in the world would see a .1 difference on the strip.

  29. #27
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    North Bay, Ontario
    Posts
    534
    Post Thanks / Like
    PS? Not a chance. Lite little car doesn't need it. The only speed I might find it useful is at a standstill. The car tracks great down the highway. Besides, 5 degrees of steering wheel turn is enough to put you in the rhubarb. A little girl can easily turn corners while driving on city streets. I can't comment on the autocross stuff. Never had the pleasure. Another reason for NOT having PS is I intended to keep the engine bay free of "stuff" cluttering it up. The build was huge success.
    MkIV #7854, Kit picked up September 2012, Coyote/BOSS 302 intake tuned at 488HP, TKO600, Center Force, Moser 8.8, driveshaft safety hoop, Stainless Header 4x1x4 headers, Gas-N-sidepipes, rad shroud, Wilwoods, NO PS/PB, heater/defroster, heated seats, wipers, Herb door panels, Dynamat Extreme sound/heat dampening, premium Rodtop top, Fast Freddie lexan wind screen, Nitto 555R, drop trunk battery, drop trunk storage,

  30. #28
    Member FlyingCobra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    87
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    Engine Masters on Motortrend on Demand just did an episode with what accessories use for horsepower on a typical 350 Cheby. The water pump was 3-5 horsepower. The Alternator under load was 10 horsepower. The verdict was keep the pump and accessories for reliability and street use. You are only losing 15 horsepower that you will never feel on the street and only the best racers in the world would see a .1 difference on the strip.
    My motivation isn’t horsepower, it’s responsiveness. I like a really snappy engine. Plus I’m just doing it for the fun of doing it this way, different than what I’ve done with any car previously.

  31. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Alliston, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    404
    Post Thanks / Like
    I built using the FFR manual rack. Supposed to be 18:1 I believe. It’s just over 3.5 turns lock to lock.
    I wanted manual to keep it as simple as possible as well as have a very raw, pure driving experience.
    I have definitely found pros and cons to the manual rack and can see the appeal of power, here are my thoughts.
    Manual is nice and light at speed, several people have commented on it while driving it too, they all thought it would be really heavy. In a very hard, loaded up corner the weight does build significantly, but this is only when really pushing hard in tight corners.
    Very stable for me at Hwy speeds, 60-85 mph. No twitching or bad behaviour some say they have experienced, could be my setup or personal preference. I have 15” wheels/tires so may be less twitchy than the lower profile setups.
    It does not self Centre very well coming off a corner, once the wheel is turned, you need to turn it back to centre. I imagine this is a function of not much caster, I set it up with 3 deg, I’m going to try a bit more when I have some time to mess with it.
    The steering ratio is a bit slow for my taste. I would think the biggest advantage of power would be running a quicker ratio rack. Only noticed in tight corners and if counter steering to catch a slide. Say making a right turn at an intersection, have to turn the wheel well past 90 deg, which feels excessive compared to other small, light cars.
    I can see why guys say you need power for autocross, for the quicker ratio and quick self centering off a corner, as well as catching a slide.
    Somewhere down the road I may try a power rack, but for now, 99% of the time I never even think about it not having power, and never really wishing I had power.
    If I ever have free time to go to auto cross or track then maybe I might want it.
    Depends how you will use it I guess.

  32. #30
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    10,545
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    ...Very stable for me at Hwy speeds, 60-85 mph. No twitching or bad behaviour some say they have experienced, could be my setup or personal preference...
    Works for you and that's great. My only comment is related to this statement. Those of us that promote PS because of the increased caster and improved high speed stability and centering are not saying the normal 3 degree positive caster manual setup is twitchy or bad. Properly setup is works fine. It's just that the PS is better. If you haven't tried it, then hard to explain. My Mk3 had manual steering with the usual FF 3.5 turn manual rack. I thought it drove fine and did lots of highway cruising. When I decided to try PS in the first Mk4, with the Breeze 3-turn rack, I was struck by how much better it was. Even with the quicker ratio, which is slower than what most of the autocross guys run. It's just more relaxed at higher speeds and at least for me is more fun to drive. Try it some day if you can. But keep enjoying what you have.
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-13-2018 at 12:04 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  33. Thanks Itchief thanked for this post
  34. #31
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,000
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    I built using the FFR manual rack. Supposed to be 18:1 I believe. It’s just over 3.5 turns lock to lock.
    I wanted manual to keep it as simple as possible as well as have a very raw, pure driving experience.
    I have definitely found pros and cons to the manual rack and can see the appeal of power, here are my thoughts.
    Manual is nice and light at speed, several people have commented on it while driving it too, they all thought it would be really heavy. In a very hard, loaded up corner the weight does build significantly, but this is only when really pushing hard in tight corners.
    Very stable for me at Hwy speeds, 60-85 mph. No twitching or bad behaviour some say they have experienced, could be my setup or personal preference. I have 15” wheels/tires so may be less twitchy than the lower profile setups.
    It does not self Centre very well coming off a corner, once the wheel is turned, you need to turn it back to centre. I imagine this is a function of not much caster, I set it up with 3 deg, I’m going to try a bit more when I have some time to mess with it.
    The steering ratio is a bit slow for my taste. I would think the biggest advantage of power would be running a quicker ratio rack. Only noticed in tight corners and if counter steering to catch a slide. Say making a right turn at an intersection, have to turn the wheel well past 90 deg, which feels excessive compared to other small, light cars.
    I can see why guys say you need power for autocross, for the quicker ratio and quick self centering off a corner, as well as catching a slide.
    Somewhere down the road I may try a power rack, but for now, 99% of the time I never even think about it not having power, and never really wishing I had power.
    If I ever have free time to go to auto cross or track then maybe I might want it.
    Depends how you will use it I guess.
    And there you go...you yourself have hit on some of the main characteristics that power steering can help to make better.

    Jeff

  35. #32
    Jazzman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    1,164
    Post Thanks / Like
    Power. I did it on mine and couldn't be happier with it. But don't believe me. I've only built one. But if EdwardB and Jeff Kleiner both agree that Power steering has significantly more advantages, in my mind, the decision is done. Very few of us on this forum know as much as these two guys and a few other very experienced builders. Go Power Steering, add a Heidts variable valve in the system, and you can have the best of both worlds. When you want less power assist, simply dial down the Heidts valve. When you need/want more help, dial it up. Easy Peasy!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  36. #33
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Jax Beach, FL
    Posts
    2,103
    Post Thanks / Like
    Power steering is a definite YES in my book. I do autocross and use a very quick rack. I also do some bigger cruises and drive my car a lot, so the car sees plenty of highway along with smaller roads. Just the extra caster is worth it.

    Edit - I wrote camber, what an idiot. I meant extra caster. Obviously don't listen to me.
    Last edited by Avalanche325; 08-13-2018 at 07:52 PM.

  37. #34
    Senior Member Clover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    220
    Post Thanks / Like
    One thing you may want to consider is what size and type of tire you want to run. Most of us are accustomed to manual steering with old skinny tires that did not have a ton of grip when compared to a 11 inch sticky modern high performance tires. Those old cars also had big giant steering wheels to help turn. While our kits are light weight, a lot of us like to run wide sticky rubber which have a considerable amount of grip. The added grip makes things more difficult when you are moving slow then what some of us remember from cars with manual steering when we were young.

    While this answer will depend on what type of experience you are looking for, I am in the power steering camp. I will autocross and track my build and want the added caster, so it makes perfect sense for me. I will add a valve that allows me to adjust the amount of assist in order to dial in exactly what I like. Steering is such a big part of the experience for me that being able to dial that in to my style is a big plus in my book.
    Last edited by Clover; 08-13-2018 at 05:07 PM.

  38. #35
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Corona del Mar, CA
    Posts
    6,057
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    7
    You guys are all wimps and don't know what a REAL cobra experience is all about.

    But seriously, I went manual for simplicity. I mostly agree with murd that it's perfectly driveable and it does load up during tight turns. Running more caster definitely eliminates lack of "finding center". To wit, my brother's near identical motor setup with power steering doesn't self center as fast as my manual at low speed.

    So which one would I rather have?

    I'm perfectly happy with my power NOTHING, 15" pin drive pushrod mid-sixties raw road car with better suspension, balance and brakes.

    But that's me, and that's the experience I wanted with that car.

    I wouldn't, and didn't, build my brother's WITHOUT power steering. Basically any car not like my first build I'd throw it on.

    Can you guess which one has power steering?



    It will DEFINITELY be part of my future FFR GTM2020 - or whatever they call it - build.

    Last edited by David Hodgkins; 08-13-2018 at 05:28 PM.

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  39. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    I read this thread during lunch, and thought about it while driving with my PS to the autoparts store after work. I did the Power steering spring mod on mine. (And I'm glad I did)

    I realized that it has to do with how you're going to use the car. I use mine as often as I can, and for any little run that think of to drive it. So I'm glad to have it. If you're going to use it occasionally to get the "complete" Cobra experience, the you may want to go with MS.

    If you drive it as often as I am planning to do, you'll want the Power Steering. HTH, Dave
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  40. #37
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    765
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Clover View Post

    Those old cars also had big giant steering wheels to help turn.
    All your points were good, but this point made me think of more food for thought (had to look back through the thread twice - "somebody said something about big steering wheels", - lol).

    I specifically ordered a blank dash for the purpose of doing a competition dash layout.

    I ended up using a heavier piece of aluminum, but made the mistake of laying out the competition dash (the first time, lol) looking through the (kinda big) FFR repro walnut steering wheel.

    When I decided that steering wheel was a bit large for what I wanted to do with the car (close to door edges, for autocross, etc) - I found that I needed to move the gauges around the steering wheel closer together - couldn't see what I wanted to be able to glance down and see with a smaller "Momo" type wheel.


    Just something else to think about for current builders (or people who can't seem to quit chasing "perfect", lol)...

  41. #38
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Jax Beach, FL
    Posts
    2,103
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by mike223 View Post
    When I decided that steering wheel was a bit large for what I wanted to do with the car (close to door edges, for autocross, etc) - I found that I needed to move the gauges around the steering wheel closer together - couldn't see what I wanted to be able to glance down and see with a smaller "Momo" type wheel..
    During autocross you will hardly ever have a chance to look at your gauges. The only time I ever get a chance is when on a road course layout. Never on a "regular" autocross course. I have an oil pressure idiot light installed just because of that. It is easy to add the extra sensor on an SBF.

    If you have a quick rack and power steering, you won't have to preposition your hands very often. For those of you that like the wooden steering wheel....batting gloves are perfect. Grippy, light weight, and no loss of feel.

  42. #39

    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Yucaipa, CA
    Posts
    114
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    Interesting subject. I have a 33' on order ( comp date is Aug 18,,, less than a week ) and I just wanted a pretty basic old hot rod, no power steer etc. BUT then,,, when I ordered kit they have this Wonderful sale going on. Was not hard for me to get over $8k for the 50% off so I went a bit nuts. Ordered Power steer,,, and several other items that I MAY or may Not not use but how could I pass up at 50% off? And just for the record, at Huntington Beach event I was advised by many to GET the power steering. Let the good times roll.

  43. #40
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    765
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post

    During autocross you will hardly ever have a chance to look at your gauges.

    I have an oil pressure idiot light installed just because of that.
    Similar here (agreed) - I chose a Speedhut tach with shift lights (works great) - https://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR4-T...PM-Shift-light


    "(works great)" - until you (completely) block your (peripheral vision) view of the shift lights in the tach with your smaller steering wheel / real world hand position(s)....

    lol


    Just trying to help.
    Last edited by mike223; 08-13-2018 at 09:45 PM.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Brown County Customs

Visit our community sponsor