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Wow, everyone, thanks for the great information. I can tell from all theses posts that I'm going to have a blast building my MK4 and I have a ton of help at my finger tips to do it. Based on everything I've found here, this is what I'm planning to do for my build. I'm purchasing the kit with the FF Manual steering. I'm leaning heavily toward adding the Saturn Vue Elec steering to give me the variable options that gives at the twist of a knob. I really like the very clean install inside the dash and will attempt that plan assuming it will fit inside my dash. We are going to find out soon as I'm picking up my kit this weekend. I should be able to start my actual build thread in the very near future. And there is going to be an exciting (at least to me) surprise reveal when I do...
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Senior Member
I read the forum about power steering and decided to go without during my build. My first drive backing out of the driveway then turning out of my neighborhood going very slow and the steering wheel took a little more effort than I anticipated. I realized I wanted power steering immediately after that. I also have the electric power steering from the Saturn View/Chevy Equinox and it works great. There are a couple things about it that takes some getting used to but it does work.
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Originally Posted by
Jeff Kleiner
And there you go...you yourself have hit on some of the main characteristics that power steering can help to make better.
Jeff
Jeff,
Wasn’t supposed to be a vote for manual, just a summary of my experience with a manual, and how I can definitely see the pros of power. I can see where it’s better, but I’m not desperate to switch to it yet, and on a twisty back road I’m not sure the manual might not have a better feel. I haven’t driven power so can’t comment, but there seem to be a lot of “gotta have power!” Posts from some that haven’t driven manual either. I’m sure you have driven both. For sure some oems use manual for a better feel, and many complain about lack of feel from power, especially electric power, which makes me really surprised at all the posts about using EPS.
I’m also really happy with my 15” cooper cobra tires, but many posts would lead you to believe that I’m taking my life in my hands driving without R compound 18s.
Just sharing my experience and feedback.
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Originally Posted by
mburger
Bought my Mk1 with manual steering. Added power steering. Would never go back for all the reasons already posted. I also added the Heidts valve to dial the assist where it is most comfortable for me.
Mark, adding P/S is probably my next project. I now have steering shaft that came with kit and a Flaming River 15:1 rack. Did you go with a stock Mustang P/S rack and pump? I assume the pump mounts on driver side where the FFR alternate drive pulley is located. Any hidden issues I need to be aware of?
Phil
Phil: FFR 3121, Frame #2050, Mk 1.5, built 2002, 1991 donor with Blueprint 302 long block and 1993 Cobra intake, BBK 70mm T/B, no smog, power steering, T-5 and 3.55 rear.
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I made my life easy and sent Mark at Breeze an email telling him I had a Mk1 and wanted PS. He did the rest! I used a remanufactured 3 turn LTL rack from Breeze (shipped direct from the factory). Mark supplied all the hoses, fittings, adapters and everything I needed except the pump, which I bought at NAPA. Stock Ford pump. Bought the pump mounting bracket on-line as well. I used the Heidts valve for adjustablility or if you feel there is too much assist without the valve, you can do the cut spring mod. I preferred the adjustability. Others may chime in with pro electric PS opinions, and they apparently work, but I didn't go that route because I'm too unfamiliar with the technology to be comfortable with it. You'll have less hoses in the engine bay without the Heidts valve. Also, I gathered all the parts needed and dropped the car off at a local recommended shop to have the work done then off for alignment. (You will notice immediately the car drives much better with the added castor) After the PS, my alignment was set to 8 degrees castor, 1/16" total toe in and -0.5 camber. ~22lbs-24lbs in all four tires and it drives great.
Last edited by mburger; 05-29-2019 at 12:11 PM.
Mark
Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.
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Thanks, Mark. Sounds like a good plan although I want to do the install myself. Thanks for the picture. Looks great!
Phil: FFR 3121, Frame #2050, Mk 1.5, built 2002, 1991 donor with Blueprint 302 long block and 1993 Cobra intake, BBK 70mm T/B, no smog, power steering, T-5 and 3.55 rear.
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Originally Posted by
mburger
I made my life easy and sent Mark at Breeze an email telling him I had a Mk1 and wanted PS. He did the rest! I used a remanufactured 3 turn LTL rack from Breeze (shipped direct from the factory). Mark supplied all the hoses, fittings, adapters and everything I needed except the pump, which I bought at NAPA. Stock Ford pump. Bought the pump mounting bracket on-line as well. I used the Heidts valve for adjustablility or if you feel there is too much assist without the valve, you can do the cut spring mod. I preferred the adjustability. Others may chime in with pro electric PS opinions, and they apparently work, but I didn't go that route because I'm too unfamiliar with the technology to be comfortable with it. You'll have less hoses in the engine bay without the Heidts valve. Also, I gathered all the parts needed and dropped the car off at a local recommended shop to have the work done then off for alignment. (You will notice immediately the car drives much better with the added castor) After the PS, my alignment was set to 8 degrees castor, 1/16" total toe in and -0.5 camber. ~22lbs-24lbs in all four tires and it drives great.
Thanks for the tip about the valve, didn't know that existed. So one more thingI need to buy.....
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Senior Member
Save your money on the valve. it's not just the valve that costs $, it's all the extra fittings you will need. The valve goes into the middle of two lines so there are 4 pipe thread to dash6 adapters, and 4 dash6 hose ends you need to buy. The cut spring is easy to do even if a little messy. If you happen to cut too much, just get several small washers to shim the spring.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
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Originally Posted by
CraigS
Save your money on the valve. it's not just the valve that costs $, it's all the extra fittings you will need. The valve goes into the middle of two lines so there are 4 pipe thread to dash6 adapters, and 4 dash6 hose ends you need to buy. The cut spring is easy to do even if a little messy. If you happen to cut too much, just get several small washers to shim the spring.
I hear you, but I am also going to install hydroboost PS, so I'd rather not mess with the whole system pressure..don't know how that would affect the brakes.