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Thread: heat insulation on assenbled 33

  1. #1
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    heat insulation on assenbled 33

    I have a 33 with an LS3 and am getting a lot of heat thru to the interior, is there any key areas to look at for intrusion points ( I saw mention of the hinge area ? ) that may allow the hot air to get in ? I bought the car assembled and it looks like there is no insulation on the firewall, impossible to add it to the inside of the firewall now with out alot of disassembly / harness manipulation. Is there any product that can be added to the engine compartment side of the firewall that does not look like a complete after thought ? I would rather do something in the engine compartment than try to get to the inside of the firewall even if it means removing the engine. I have added some venting in the engine side panels to allw the heat to escape but I would like to get the interior cooler. I have added insulation to the floors and shielded the muffler area.
    Any thoughts would be appreciated.
    Jim

  2. #2
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    If not already done I would get under the car and wrap the exhaust and mufflers. You could also remove the exhaust system and spray the underside of the car with a heat shield material.

    Not sure if removing the motor and spraying the firewall with it would look right. I think it would look like you forgot it. But then again, you could remove the motor, then drill out the firewall and remove it from the engine side. Then you could spray it on the inside and put it back. Probably be able to insulate the hinge area as well.
    Tim Sapp
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    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  3. #3
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    The biggest spot for heat coming in is from the hinge area, I bought a small diameter pool noodle and cut it into different lengths and also split it. I then put it inside the hinge area. That helped a lot but didn't stop all of it. My next step is to make kick panels and install over that area after I put more insulation in. Also make sure the fire wall is sealed around the chassis tubes where they come through. You can use silicone to fill the gaps.
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  4. #4
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    You have to insulate the firewall. Like tim said, if you willing to pull the motor, the firewall can come off. It installs from he front. Everything is normally mounted to the frame inside with nothing to the wall itself. While it’s off, insulate the underside of the cowl also. Lots of heat from the sun can come through it. And, like others said, you gotta deal off the kick panels areas and along the bittom of the body even. Don’t forget around the rear door hinges also. Lastly, the exhaust. Adding a plate between the muffler and floor will help (with air gap on both sides) plus spray on heat shield and insulation inside (assuming iou don’t want the bare aluminum look)
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Another approach for the ends of the firewall up under the dash is to use spray foam. Some of the FF builders
    have pushed a 1 Gal ziplock into the voids and filled that with the foam. It will expand and conform to the space
    but the baggie stops it from pushing out the front where it would show and be hard to remove. Might be worth
    a look. HTH
    Dale

  6. #6
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    I have wrapped the mufflers and pipes that are under the car, I have also added heat shielding to the underside of the floors. I will try to seal the kick panels and hinge area, and look at what I can get to from the access panels on the cowl. I have also sealed around the penetrations at the firewall. It uses Hooker ceramic coated shortie headers, is it worth it to wrap them too ? I did not build the car but the builder did seal the firewall to the frame / body, I did not see any direct path for heat to get into the car but will put it up on the lift and look closer to the areas mentioned.
    Thanks for the ideas guys !

  7. #7
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    If you look at the last page of the Kootenai Valley Customs build page, you will see a picture that shows a small ( lime green ) piece I made to seal off the hinge area. Tons of air comes into that area. Also the additional panel that I made to cover the door latch is sealed as well. Rear of firewall panel is pictured and shows what I did to the upper portion of the firewall for insulation. I also made foot box inner panels so you can add insulation to the firewall lower pieces.

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