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Thread: P100DHG Build Thread - Gen 3 Coupe #138

  1. #41
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    An Engine is Born

    What a beast! 475hp (off from 510hp, lost 35 hp to that intake, power steering and AC) even more impressive is that 511 lbft of torque it’s putting down

    597D937A-0ECA-42E6-9EAD-EB0530A4E9FD.jpeg

    Here is the Facebook video of it burning some dinosaur fuel (that’s what we call it since my wife and I both have electric cars)

    https://www.facebook.com/19310801085...594167?sfns=mo

    I just want to point out for anyone who is looking to build a 351W to clear the coupe hood. Look how low that intake sits. The EFI barely clears the valve covers and sits low in the valley. Should work perfectly. I got an email from FFR saying the rest of my parts are coming. I am sending out my headers and exhaust to a high end shop locally. He is going to add baffles in the side pipes to quiet them down and a collector for the headers and EFI bung. Stop me here before I commit a $1000 to modifying the exhaust if you think there is a problem with this.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 03-17-2019 at 01:30 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  2. #42
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Sway bars, Steering & Wheels and Tires

    Things progressed surprisingly quickly since my last post. I am at a point in which I can step away or not as the case maybe and feel comfortable that I have a roller. My father-in-law and I have been working together since I needed help with the center section, he's really gotten into it. Some great bonding time. Neither of us have an auto mechanic background but we are both very skilled so his help makes the project just cruise along. He's leaving for 2 weeks and I have a ton of work so I'll be enjoying your posts rather than doing much posting myself. We tackled the last three items on the list, sway bars, steering, and wheels.

    Sway Bars:
    I am not sure how many have read the FFR directions for the front sway bars and I don't know if I am allowed to post them because of copyright issues, but awful might be an understatement. Fortunately, EXCELLENT is the way I can describe their tech support and their responsiveness and clarification made it all make sense. Plus lets not kid ourselves I looked at previous builds here and copied what I saw and what FFR told me to do. The front sway bar directions make no mention or torque settings but these settings can be found in the rear sway bar instructions which are very clear and well written. The part that says "If necessary the minimum length the rod ends and female rod ends can end up are so the threads are 1⁄2” long.", really intends to say. "Cut the rod ends so they are 1/2" long." I used a hack saw and came out with excellent results.

    IMG_2090.jpg

    I torqued the Allen style bolts used to mount the brackets to the frame to 30 ft-lbs and the 7/16" bolts used to attached the sway bar to the helm joints/ rod end bearing to 40 ft-lbs. The replacement bolt that attaches the lower control arm to the coil over shock I torqued to 40 ft-lbs.

    IMG_2096.jpg

    The threaded Allen style bolts can be seen in the above photo with gold lock nuts on them behind where the radiator would go toward the lower frame rail.

    Steering:
    The steering went very smoothly. The head scratcher that I ran into was installing the lower shaft. What I discovered was it was necessary to disconnect the spline adapter from the steering shaft that fits onto the power steering rack to make it all fit. Having a second person was actually really helpful to install the system. It comes in handy when aligning and installing the upper and lower shafts and the shaft to the spline adapter. Fortunately it was very quick and easy and really should uninstall smoothly because I need to polish the panels and fit them back later.

    Wheels and Tires:
    Here is the big news! They look insane. Amazing --- well... that was left back there in the dust. They are incredible looking and those spacers, well, those are just freakin superb. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves except to say, it's hard to judge from pictures how the wheel sits under the fender when talking about spacers, so I used a yardstick and a level to help illustrate the 1/2" - 3/4" recess in from the fender the tire sits.

    IMG_2097.jpg

    IMG_2102.jpg

    IMG_2100.jpg

    The yard stick is touching the top of the fender it just got cutoff from the photo, you'll have to trust me. Also you might notice how high the fender is above the wheel and how badly I need to adjust those coil overs but I'll get to that later. Still plenty of weight to add before addressing that. Just a heads up I torqued my lug nuts to 100lbs. 2015 mustang calls for 150lbs according to the internet but I am going to do some further research on what I need to be at before cranking anything down that hard. For reference my Tesla Model S is at 129 ft-lbs per factory spec.

    Also just let me add this. My 2.5 year old putting the tires on today with my father-in-law (his grandfather). This is why you build stuff like this to make these types of memories.

    IMG_2080.jpg

    Here is where things stand right now

    57445785435__BCAF0AA2-B6AA-4D56-B942-7762036FBB71.jpg
    Last edited by P100DHG; 04-01-2019 at 12:03 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  3. #43
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    I would get the engine installed and check the fit of the exhaust before spending any money on them. Hope they fit better than mine did, one of the biggest problems with my build. I ended up selling all the FFR parts and getting Boig quiet pipes.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  4. #44
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Williamson View Post
    I would get the engine installed and check the fit of the exhaust before spending any money on them. Hope they fit better than mine did, one of the biggest problems with my build. I ended up selling all the FFR parts and getting Boig quiet pipes.
    David W
    Hey Dave,

    Can you share your experience with the fit of the exhaust? That would be very helpful.

    Thanks,
    Danny
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  5. #45
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    There are some old posts with detail, long story short. My frame was made with the engine mounts welded on reversed so the engine was located forward and to the left. FFR send me modified mounts to move the engine into the correct location. I tried 3 sets of headers including a 351 set. With a lot of messing around I got them to fit enough to drive but they were not straight. I got some parts sent to me by FFR and with a 4 inch spacer spool I got the passenger side to fit. With a number of shims I got the drivers side installed but it was high and angled down. I am sure with more work I could have made them fit but they were so loud they could not stay. Even with ear plugs my ears were ringing after 30 minutes. So I changed to Boig quiet pipes, they fit well and will not piss off everyone in my area when I drive it. Yours may fit better but I would check to be sure. hope this helps
    DSC_4360.jpegDSC_4361.jpegside pipe1.jpegsidepipe2.jpeg
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

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  7. #46
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Pinion Flange Adapter, Pedals, Exhaust, a Redo & a Mistake

    So it seems like I have a question at every step and really the answers seem obvious once I get them but hind sight is 20/20 as they say. I want to thank Factory Five for their amazing tech support and obviously you guys for your help so far. It's great because if I decide to build a Roaster then I'll know whats going on before I tackle it.

    Pinion Flange Adapter:
    So their are many different variants of the pinion adapter apparently. The one that FFR sent to me originally wasn't correct.

    IMG_2104.jpg

    I took a picture and sent it to them and they sent me out a new one which installed easily.

    IMG_2219.jpg

    Pedals
    Pedals went in this week. Easy install. I did have a question regarding the balance bar but it sounds like I need to wait till I finish all the brake lines and everything is bled before I can adjust that. You might notice I cheated the pedal pads over to one side. I live in flip flops and occasionally Converse, with the pedal pads centered my flip flops didn't have enough space so I cheated them over. Nice to know I can always adjust them again later if need be but now I feel like I have ample space.

    IMG_2277.jpg

    Placement of the accelerator pedal was tough but was aided by the use of a super magnet to temporarily hold it. Everything went in beautifully, alignment is perfect. I am very pleased with the pedal placement. The picture is deceiving but the accelerator pedal has an ample amount of room between the side wall of the pedal box and the pedal. I couldn't find the 1/4 x 3/4 screws in my kit so I bought a set from Home Depot.

    Exhaust
    Factory Five was so kind to ship me a set of flanges for free. I am going to send these along with the headers to a high-end exhaust shop here that is going to add collectors and a bung for the EFI system. The issue is that FFR headers for a 351w don't have a collector. They are 4 individual pipes that only combine once they go into the side pipes, additionally when they do enter the side pipes 2 pipes combine into 1. This took a lot of internet scouring and research to find the pictures that show this (I still don't have my side pipes but the 60lb box on it's way to me via Fedex is likely them). So I am posting the pictures here so it's easy for people to see who are researching this issue.

    IMG_2260.jpg

    IMG_2261.jpg

    Now by tapping one tube I can only sample one cylinder and though people have said it will work it's really not the best. But it will work. What I intend to do is to do what you see below and have them re-coated when I get the side pipes done.

    IMG_1483.jpg

    Here is the picture of the flange FFR sent me so I can weld the collectors to.

    IMG_2281.jpg

    Redoing Work:
    Well there is a time when you have to just redo something. The back story here is my son and I frequent Santa Monica Airport every weekend to eat at the Spitfire Grill and watch airplanes take off and land. He has an amazing vocabulary for 2 he speaks like a 10 year old honestly and he's a sponge. We've made some friends visiting the airport and there is a gentleman who is known for building airplanes in a hanger there that we've befriended. He builds the Rutan Model 61 Long-EZ. He took us to the hanger and we got to see what its all about and he gave me some pointers that I then further researched when I was thinking about building this car. Bolts point aft and center and torque your bolts from the nut side whenever possible. I have taken that advice and used it on this build. I mean if it makes the difference between falling out of the sky if something comes loose and not, then certainly it can't hurt to use it on this car. Well I had posted some of that wisdom that was imparted on me and Paul came up with a very good point and this is where the "whenever possible" comes into play. The front lower control arm, front bolt and steering rack bolts should face forward and not aft in this case because if it does face aft it will be "captured" by the sheet metal of the radiator shroud. Though Paul is much further along than I it's amazing forethought because I am sure he figured this out before he put that bolt in, unlike myself. So I switched mine so I don't have that issue and the serviceability of the car is intact.

    A Mistake:
    Well I did it, after torquing bolt after bolt at 100 ft-lbs I broke something small and fragile. Well actually it may not be entirely my fault. When I was assembling my pedals I attached the throttle cable ball joint onto the pedal and before is was actually fully tightened down the bolt sheered off. The nut hadn't even touched the pedal arm yet (it wasn't cross threaded, I checked), but better it broke now and not when I was driving. I stole the one from the carb side in the hopes that my EFI system will have the necessary attachments for the throttle cable, but I might be in the market for one down the road if someone has an extra I can buy. The one I stole from the carb side went on without any issue.

    IMG_2258.jpg

    So I am am running out of things to do with the body on. I am hesitant to go further, taking the body off, etc. while we are showing our home. It hasn't sold, though an unappealing offer came through today. No rush gotta find the right buyer. Hopefully we will accomplish the move. I have to say this build has provided an amazing amount of stress relief. I love working in my garage, it's my zen place. I am going to grease the ball joints and control arms and fill the differential with fluid, but I think I'm stuck after that. I've noticed that it's a tight fit on greasing those lower control arms so I am looking for a 90į adapter. Any suggestions are welcomed.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 04-01-2019 at 10:13 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  8. #47
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    An Uneventful Eventful Update

    Well, 3 weeks have passed since my last update and Iím afraid more time will pass till my next. Since this journal/thread is as much about what happens to the car, as my life around the car, I thought Iíd write an update. My wife and I were very lucky to have a stellar buyer come through and buy our house without any compromises. We have to be out by end of day Thursday (4 days from now). Unfortunately our new home doesnít close escrow for another 2 weeks (termite work needs to be performed). But thatís doesnít mean I get to start building again. The new house needs wood flooring and 3 new electrical panels. Estimated completion on the work is 2 months. So, we will be living with our parents (should be interesting). In that timeline I am going to squeeze a garage make over in there.

    The Garage
    I intend to have a garage door installer change the track of the sectional door to follow the roofline of the garage and do a jack shaft opener. You get where Iím going with this! I am going to install full recessed lighting, insulate, drywall and paint. I intend to do a metallic epoxy floor and full cabinets through Costco. A dedicated 125 amp electrical panel for the garage and when thatís all done, the 4 Post Lift is going in. I mentioned it to my wife and she did not seem happy. But she got the house so Iím going for the garage and Iíll ask for forgiveness when itís done. Iíll do a big reveal and weíll see who got their way. LOL.

    The Car
    As for the car, Russ Thompson hooked me up majorly. He modified my steering hub for the turn signal switch, and I got a bunch of other goodies, including a plaque with Daytona inscribed in it. I plan to intergrate it into my dash some how. Maybe a glove box door. I also got door sill plates, pontoon covers and plexiglass slats for the A pillar. He doesnít have the bracket but he sent me a template that I can make my own. I greased all the joints. I recommend a 90į adapter for the front lower control arms. Since my differential is used I decided to do a partial flush. I first verified it was drained. I over filled it with 2 full quarts of fluid and then drained off 0.4 quarts leaving the 1.6 left inside. Iím glad I did because the first 0.3 quarts were dirty and the final 0.1 was clear. Leaving me with 1.6 quarts of clean fluid or 3.2 pints. I used the recommended Ford Motorcraft fluid which the dealer totally hosed me on the price. I was concerned about transporting the car in an open trailer with the glass taped in so I built a glass rack out of PVC for my rear and front glass and will store them with the rest of the parts. The owner of the new home is nice enough to let me put the car in the garage till we close escrow.

    For now thatís all. I wish everyone a wonderful Easter.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  9. #48
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Congrats on the new home and the pending garage rehab. Very similar story to what we did during my #8674 Roadster build. Less the living with parents part. Good luck with everything, and hang in there. Every time we've moved I've been reminded just how much work it is. But it's worth it when done.

    Do you by chance have pictures of the plaque, sill plates, and pontoon covers from Russ? I emailed with him right after I received my Coupe kit, and he was thinking about doing some Gen 3 parts, but didn't have anything at the time.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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  11. #49
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    no pictures, I have a set of sill plates and pontoon covers from Russ for my Gen 3. Got them for X-mass so he has them now.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  12. #50
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    LOL. I should have know better, posting about car candy without pictures. Truthfully I haven’t even opened it. I’ll go tomorrow to my storage and grab a picture. I’m taking the whole week off so it will be a nice break from packing. I was so focused on my steering hub and getting the wheel on so we could move. Also in the midst of all of this I broke ground on my future office for my business and taxes. It’s been an insane 3 weeks.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 06-16-2019 at 07:59 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  13. #51
    Senior Member q4stix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    The Garage
    I intend to have a garage door installer change the track of the sectional door to follow the roofline of the garage and do a jack shaft opener. You get where I’m going with this! I am going to install full recessed lighting, insulate, drywall and paint. I intend to do a metallic epoxy floor and full cabinets through Costco. A dedicated 125 amp electrical panel for the garage and when that’s all done, the 4 Post Lift is going in. I mentioned it to my wife and she did not seem happy. But she got the house so I’m going for the garage and I’ll ask for forgiveness when it’s done. I’ll do a big reveal and we’ll see who got their way. LOL.
    Sounds *very* familiar to me. All that's missing from that in mine is the jackshaft opener and the lift! You'll be super happy with that setup with the lighting and heating/cooling ability.
    Also, if the garage has living space above it and already had drywall like mine, an alternative would be using the flat panel LEDs. A friend of mine had some and they work really well without having to punch holes in the ceiling.
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

  14. #52
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Here is some candy for you guys. Now you can blow up Russ’s email with requests. LOL. He’s a really great guy. He gave me a lot of time talking about the coupe and tips and tricks. The first picture is of the plaque that I intend to use as my glove box door

    C96C3656-1201-48F5-BD89-10EF1597EDEC.jpg

    E27D763D-F906-4BA2-B31D-E0672DA921D9.jpg

    ECC9D649-3DAF-44E2-B2C0-6DFDE1E78007.jpg
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  15. #53
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    So it’s a done deal. My house is sold and my new house closed. I loaded up my car on to a trailer

    F1184604-DBF7-4B0E-9D70-1E3B4A5DFA38.jpg

    And put it in the new garage

    B63997CA-6399-40C5-A68F-43A5CC1C5821.jpg

    I’ve got some space to spare now.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 05-04-2019 at 04:42 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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    That puts a dent in the car building schedule, moving and having to set up a new garage...

  17. #55
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by q4stix View Post
    Sounds *very* familiar to me. All that's missing from that in mine is the jackshaft opener and the lift!.
    Well sir, I will be joining the compromise club. We can’t get everything we want. We rewired, insulated, LED lit, drywalled, painted, new upper garage cabinets. I was planning on doing epoxy paint but the guy showed up today and said my garage floor wasn’t a good candidate because the moisture reading was above some threshold. So any recommendations on garage floor tile? I had Costco brand in my last garage and it was just alright. Anyway, it seems like that was a good place to stop spending money and I feel lucky my wonderful wife let me do all of this. So the jack shaft opener and the lift can come at a later date. (I’ll post pictures of my car’s new garage next week)

    We’ve got 2 more weeks till the remodel is done and we move in so I’m very very excited to have a place I can call home and get back to work on my car. With summer vacations planned work on it will be sporadic. I think my first task is to review everything I’ve done to date on the car and get caught up and refreshed. I left myself good notes. I foresee the next step in the process to remove the body and mark all the panels and remove them in preparation for the brake lines, fuel lines and gas tank.

    I want to give a big thanks to Roush who has been storing my engine without any complaints. They are delivering it in mid September and it’s very exciting to see that shiny jewel. It might be premature but it will be a good motivator.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 08-20-2019 at 03:49 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  18. #56
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Did I say I'd post pictures next week? I meant in two or three... LOL. We leave for vacation tomorrow. Gone for 2 weeks but I've set myself up to start back on the build when I get back. One day of setup for parts and inventory and I'm back at it. I have been completely absent from the the forum because truthfully I've been jealous that all you guys are building and I am piecing my house together. But that's what vacation is for I've got 2.5 months of progress to catch up on. I did get to see my first completely finished Daytona this past weekend. Actually it's the only one I've ever seen except for the one sitting in my garage so that was really inspiring. It was a Gen 1 and I loved the simplicity of the dash actually so it's made me rethink how far I want to take modifications. Maybe a glove box, a filler piece between the dash and transmission tunnel and leave the rest somewhat standard but I am sure I will figure it out as I go along. Here are the pictures of the new garage. I think my favorite part is the cabinets and lighting.

    IMG_2978.jpg IMG_2982.jpg
    Last edited by P100DHG; 08-09-2019 at 01:40 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Fuel System Part 1, Installing the Gas Tank, Removing the Body

    So I took a break from the house remodel (even though we are moved in the details are just monumental), I just couldn't take it anymore. The house is looking incredible but I've been there and done that and I felt like I've lost so much momentum on the car. But now that the house details are becoming fewer and fewer I get to come home from work spend some time with my son and get to my place of serenity (my garage). I put in 4 evenings this week and progress has been steady and I am learning a ton.

    Removing the Body:

    I couldn't go further comfortably without removing the body. The whole exercise took 15 minutes. My father-in-law, my wife and I removed the body. It was really quite simple (literally even 3 year old with a Black and Decker cordless screwdriver can do it LOL) and frankly removing it sooner just isn't necessary.

    9f4b27ff-2041-4c37-b928-cc1eaff839c9.jpg

    Packed it up on the trailer

    04de1aae-34bc-43f2-b27a-6610993e44b2.jpg

    and here she is naked

    dcd93b95-685b-4080-9036-4f347b3e9cea.jpg

    Installing the Gas Tank:

    After removing the body it's interesting to see the car and appreciate what's under that body. The frame is just beautifully made. I installed the gas tank per the instructions but of course I hit a snag. Really it was the fuel straps that gave me a hard time. I had to drill out the paint on the horizontal holes which wouldn't allow the 3/8" bolt to pass through. I just used my drill in reverse so it was more like filing it than drilling. The screws passed through perfectly. When I went to hang the tank I found that the 3/8" x 2 1/4" provided bolts were too short. A trip to the hardware store and some 3/8" x 3" bolts did the trick. It's nice and snug now. In the picture you'll see the stock fuel pickup but as I learned about the fuel system I decided to go a different route. I'll discuss the fuel pickup later but let's just say it's going to the landfill.

    IMG_3263.JPEG

    Fuel System Part 1:

    After installing the gas tank, it was time to turn my attention to the fuel system. I am enjoying this part because it's freehand work and isn't just a bolt on type of thing. It leaves some room to make it my own. This might be long so brace yourself but I'll keep it organized so I'm not bouncing around and as a preface, though I am a good fabricator and craftsman I had zero understanding of a fuel system before embarking on this, so hopefully I'll answer some questions in my post for those thinking about building one of these cars.

    1. What do I know and what do I need to know?
    The first question I asked myself is: What do I know? What I knew was that this fuel system used a supply line and a return line and that's it.
    What I needed to know was:
    • What side of the engine does the fuel go into?
    • What size fuel line do I need and does the supplied fuel line fit the bill?
    • Did I need a fuel pump, what type, how strong and all the required specs?
    • What about a fuel filter?
    • What types of fitting does it use?
    • How should I route and plumb my system


    2. Answering the questions.
    So after about 5+ hours of phone calls, research and the related I gathered my resources and parts to complete most of my fuel system so hopefully this will save you 5 hours of research.
    • The first thing was I turned to the video of my engine on the dyno to see that my fuel needs to enter on the passenger side
    • I also discovered through my research that the supplied fuel lines where going to be too small and I needed to upgrade to a 3/8" line so my supply and return at both 3/8", from there it's going to be braided stainless flex lines. My engine puts out 475 HP and is a 7.0L V8 or 427 cubic inches. So this engine is going to need to gulp fuel.
    • Frankly I still don't know what my engine comes with but I decided I wanted an in tank pump and if my engine did come with one I'd just sell it here or on another site. I ended up buying this Aeromotive Stealth Electric Fuel Pumps 18638. It had good reviews and was drop in ready and FAST (the maker of my EFI system) gave it their blessing. So I don't need the supplied fuel pick up.
    • The FFR fuel filter looks probably like it performs so I went with a Trickflow filter.
    • The fittings with the supplied kit and the fittings I am using are not compatible. In scrapping the whole supplied fuel system I decided to use compression and AN fittings.
    • The last part was a local supplier in North Hollywood who has helped me on other projects, VF Sales helped me tremendously, by putting together what should be a fantastic system.
    • Well first is since my fuel enters on the passenger side of the engine and the pickup on the tank is on the passenger side it seemed to make the most sense running it down the passenger side. One think to contend with is the Parking Brake Handle but if I ran it a few inches below I shouldn't have any interference. I knew I wanted to do the filler panel that Paul did in the center of his car covering the cross brace under the hood, behind the engine. After a trip to my local metal supply, I was able to match up the same aluminum that is on the car now. So I got most of the parts and what's left is the order in which to plumb it all in. FAST has a great diagram they sent me that makes a lot of sense. I think this diagram answered a lot of questions for me. Especially given my specific setup


    unnamed.png

    What was fascinating to me is that the regulator goes on the return line and it makes sense to me now. I am thinking about it like a dam holding back the reservoir so that the engine can take big gulps of fuel rather than it being on the supply and it being the equivalent of sipping through a small straw. Also interesting is that the fuel's direction across the rail didn't matter. Meaning it could go in the front and come out the back or go in the back and come out the front doesn't make a difference. Huh who would of thunk.

    As for putting it all together I got started on that yesterday. The grinder cut through the aluminum like a hot knife through butter. I like to use blue Scotch brand tape to mark out where I want to cut, I draw directly on it and not only is my line clear to see but it seems to help reduce burrs on the edges when cutting. The result so far is great and VF Sales hooked me up with bulkhead fittings so you won't see the hard lines at all in the front of the engine compartment and it will keep the firewall looking clean. I am very happy with the result so far, I plan to take lots of pictures of how I route, fasten and plumb the system so that if anyone has any questions hopefully it will answer them. I should have the hard lines finished before I leave for vacation in 10 days so when I get back I'll do all the steel braided connections from the pickup/ fuel pump, to the filter to the hard lines. More to come next week cause it's back to work on the house this weekend. LOL.

    18212451-28d5-4671-9c21-4f9417f49374.jpg

    19cf24b9-a539-4125-8206-2a21d902a4e3.jpg

    PS - You might notice I mounted my brake reservoirs but I'll cover that work when I cover the brake system.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 08-20-2019 at 03:53 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  20. #58
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Fuel System Part 2

    Fuel System Part 2:

    Refining Work:
    Well I was sanding the panel I made that covers the cross brace in firewall and absentmindedly I forgot to remove the bulkhead fittings I installed in it and rather than sanding the edge of the panel I sanded the fittings. A minor mistake (I ruined the fittings) but what I realized was that the real mistake was to use straight bulkhead connectors. If I had used straight bulk head fittings I would have needed to use 90ļ fittings on the stainless braided lines connecting the bulk head fittings to the fuel rail and it would have definitely interfered with the engine as the 90ļ fittings from the braided lines are sweeping rather than a hard 90. So I trashed the ruined straight bulkhead connectors and swapped them out for 90ļ bulk head fittings. Now I can connect with straight AN connectors off my flexible stainless lines and have clearance for the engine.

    IMG_3382.jpg

    Hard Fuel Lines
    Just a quick recap. I am using 3/8" stainless steel for my return and supply hardline and for my particular application it requires me to run them down the passenger side. This means I have to avoid the parking brake. So I ran them low. I also used exactly one 10' stick and cut it in half. I used the supplied 5/16" fuel line from FFR to bend the shape I wanted before I touched anything in stainless and followed the pattern I had made with my bender and reproduced the same thing in stainless. A warning if you're going to use stainless. Make sure you bender is up for the task, stainless doesn't want to change shape and if you put too much bend in it, reversing that is quite difficult. My bender was not up to the task and as a result

    IMG_3279.jpg IMG_3287.jpg

    Luckily it was on the very last adjustment. I was trying to take a little too much bend out which I did but they failed catastrophically. I am pleased with the end result though and I ordered from Eastwood benders to do the brake lines. Here are some pictures of how I routed my hard lines.


    IMG_3295.jpg IMG_3294.jpg IMG_3291.jpg IMG_3289.jpg. IMG_3288.jpg

    After installing my hard lines I pressure tested them and did the soapy bubbles test. The test revealed a leak in my testing equipment. LOL I fixed it and I continued the test but I found no leak in stainless lines or fittings. I thought about doing a test by submerging the fittings in water but the test I did worked fine and I am confident in the results. I pressure tested the system at 60psi. I'll do the same again with all my braided lines attached before hooking up to the fuel pump or fuel rail.

    IMG_3306.jpg IMG_3307.jpg


    The TrickFlow fuel filter I ordered is on back order till end of the month but the timing is good since I am out of town till then. Once I have that I'll complete the fuel system from the tank to the hard lines.

    More on the next post... I hit my picture limit
    Last edited by P100DHG; 08-26-2019 at 07:46 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  21. #59
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Brake System Part 1, Looking Forward

    Continued from the previous post. I broke this up into 2 posts because I hit my picture limit.

    Brake System Part 1:

    Brake Lines
    Since I was waiting on some parts for the fuel system I started mapping out my brake lines and brake system. I am going to just use the provided lines but follow my own routing path so I purchased a double flaring tool that was highly rated on Amazon along with the Eastwood bender that will give me nice tight bends. For now my brake reservoirs are set. I really like the provided reservoirs from FFR. Actually they provide one but I ordered an extra. I want my front and rear brakes to be truly independent systems. Two reasons why I like FFRs brake reservoirs. First off they look awesome, that polished look is great and really they are very well made. Secondly, I like the mounting system. They fit into a collar that tightens down so they are adjustable. I can raise or lower the height of them to get the perfect fit. I have chosen to take FFR's directions quite literally and mount them so that the cap is just above the height of the master cylinders knowing I can raise it if I need to, but for now I want a low profile look. I anticipate needing to notch the sheet metal on the driver side foot box to allow the brake lines to pass through. I routed the flexible rubber supply lines nice and tight and in a way that would cause as little interference as possible with the outgoing hard brake lines. When I get back I should have the brake lines done within a week or so.

    IMG_3359.jpg IMG_3378.jpg IMG_3379.jpg IMG_3381.jpg IMG_3383.jpg


    Looking Forward
    This is very much for me, as it is a look into my thought process. When done with the brake lines I plan to tackle the foot box sheet metal in 3 sections. First section is the driver side section. Disconnect the steering rack, brake reservoir supply lines and mark and drill a place where I want to route the throttle cable. Next up marking and drilling my rivet holes and finish the sheet metal. I plan to polish my sheet metal and if all goes as planned I'll do and extensive explanation of my process. I have spoken to Mother's Polish and a Jeremy Rohrs of Floodwater Customs. Jeremy gave me some great insight into how to get to a mirror finish. I hope I'm capable of it but here is his work on this Facebook Post. Him and I are exchanging text messages. I hope I do him proud. After reassembly of the driver side foot box I'll bleed and test my brakes. From there I plan to move to the second section or the passenger side. Mount my AC and make my holes for the AC bulk head fittings. Once that is done I'll be able to polish and mount those panels. And lastly the third section of this next phase which is the extra sheet metal pieces I plan to make along with the filler piece for the firewall I made, which I still need to work on figuring out how to route my EFI wires through. Once those 3 sections are complete I might be ready to put the engine in and work forward to the radiator sheet metal etc. and then I'll turn my attention to the interior panels. Writing it out it seems like a long road but hey isn't that the point. It wouldn't be fun if it was done in a day.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 09-07-2019 at 12:39 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  22. #60

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    Looks good!

    Do you have a reference to the connectors you use to get the brake supply lines through the footbox?
    Sigurd
    Type 65 Gen 3, 347 Fi, Tremec, IRS, Wilwood, AC, PS

  23. #61
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigurd View Post
    Looks good!

    Do you have a reference to the connectors you use to get the brake supply lines through the footbox?
    Thanks for the compliment, they came in the box with the brake reservoirs.

    If you still have your parts list from inventory reference the below:

    I hope this isn't too specific but it's in box 14C in Bag 34168 - Part #34148 - 1/4" Nylon Bulkhead Adapter & 34149 1/4" Nylon Hex Nut.

    Screen Shot 2019-08-20 at 1.25.30 PM.png

    IMG_3358.jpg

    For install directions reference the Coupe Manual Rev 4F Page 233

    Screen Shot 2019-08-20 at 1.34.26 PM.png

    I hope that helps.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  24. #62

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    Thank you. Then I most likely have one somewhere.
    Sigurd
    Type 65 Gen 3, 347 Fi, Tremec, IRS, Wilwood, AC, PS

  25. #63
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Brake System Part 2, Seat Fitting and Failure, Underhood Panels

    Big update so strap in, you know what, go get a cup of coffee and come back cause this is going to be a long one!

    Brake System Part 2:

    Hardlines Complete- I finished all the hardlines to my brake system using the provided steel brake lines. I gave them a light sand using 320 grit sand paper and painted them black with a high heat 250ļ paint. My goal, as best as I can accomplish it, is to hide as much plumbing and wiring as I can within reason. I followed Factory Five's routing to the rear brakes but frankly their suggested position for the front is just sloppy. First off I think running the brake line as they suggest down the diagonal tube toward the front brakes is a mistake. It should be kept high and away from the headers. Second is the way they ran it from the drivers side to the passenger side is the part I find to be sloppy. They provide a 60" brake line and a 48" or 42" would be best. But never the less I cut the line with a cutoff wheel to the exact length, reamed it and then double flared it using Titan Tools 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool. It's the identical one to the Eastwood I imagine they just label theirs differently and mark it up $20. Anyway it did the job very well. My local store VF Sales was out of the P clamp billet style brake line clamp, I was able to find them on Ali Express through google shopping here. It comes in various colors, I ordered black. They are coming in late month so I'll install and report back on the quality.

    IMG_3576.jpeg IMG_3496.jpeg IMG_3495.jpg

    Seat Fitting Part 1:
    I decided to start the process of searching for a seat because I figured I might not get it right the first time. Very few seats will fit this car and me, especially a full bucket seat. My initial search started with Corbeau who makes a very affordable seat and I am sure I mentioned them in previous posts but the problem is they don’t offer an FIA rated seat in the US. I figure it’s important to have a seat that’s been crash tested and approved by a sanctioning body. After all these cars don’t have airbags, and that’s not to say other seats aren’t safe but drivers in Los Angeles are distracted and accidents happen frequently. I found the Braum Falcon X seat an FIA rated seat for $400 or so. Braum and their recommended dealer both said with would be too big and that their measurements are on the smaller side and the seats can run over those measurements, so that wasn’t going to work. Next up was Sparco, double the price you get very little more frankly but they have a lot of sizing options. I started with the EVOII US GRP Ultra Light, too big, tried the Grid-Q also too big. I tried the QRT-R also too big (the smallest seat that fits me)... The seat sat cocked off to one side and the roll bar prevented me from aligning it. So I am going to try the Tillett B6 Screamer see if that works.

    IMG_3557.jpg IMG_3580.jpg

    Underhood Panels:
    I have been wrestling with the new chassis design. Frankly I really liked the Gen 2 Coupe design that stayed true to the original Daytona but I can understand why FFR went with the new design. Plus the body looks much better on the Gen 3. What comes next is probably going to be the type of thing you love or hate but since FFR took the liberty of changing the design, I did too. I wanted to find a way to frame that beautiful engine I bought so I made some additional panels so hide the chassis tubes. It’s still a work in progress. I still need to place the radiator overflow and the radiator filler neck and cap. I have an idea of placement but I still need to mount everything see if it will work and make the holes so look forward on updates on that. I used the same aluminum that’s used for all the other panels, I used a Harbor Freight 30” Bending Brake I purchased with 25% off coupon and the Eastwood 2.5” punch and flare tool which was on sale. I first made my templates from Office Depot Poster Board. 10 sheets for $6 not bad.

    IMG_3565.jpg

    Then I transferred the pattern to the aluminum, cut and bent it. I was able to cut it with a sheet metal shears/ scissors. I could have used the grinder but this was quieter. I ordered 10-24 button head bolts from McMaster Car and Rivnuts to fasten them down. My brother and I played around with different shapes for the panels and arrived at this geometric type design. Should look cool with those button head bolts.

    IMG_3587.jpg IMG_3585.jpeg IMG_3625.jpg IMG_3623.jpg

    Panel's need some more refinement but over all I'm pleased with the look.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 09-10-2019 at 12:59 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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  27. #64
    Senior Member q4stix's Avatar
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    I'm having the same concerns about finding seats for my height and for clearing the transfer case on the side and roll bar on the top. I'm thinking I may cut out the top bar and fab a new one to better fit the bar in the body and clear my head. I'll be watching what you come up with.
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

  28. #65
    FFR Maven Logan's Avatar
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    P100DHG - Great progress! I for one actually sort of like how you framed out the engine bay. Reminds me of when old muscle cars get resto-modded and have smooth painted panels in place of the old formed/stamped inner wheel-well tubs up front that you see when looking under the hood.

    You also have made some good data points on seat fitment. Did you buy all these seats to test fit in the chassis, and determine they are too big to fit in the car? That must have been a headache buying and returning seat after seat. I think you’re doing the smart thing by choosing an FIA rated seat. Even though there’s no airbags in our car doesn’t mean you can’t have improved safety in other aspects. Nothing against those who have non-FIA approved seats, it’s just all personal preference.

    As for seat fitment....when you say the seat sat “Cocked off to one side”, you know the seats don’t face squarely forward relative to the chassis? They follow a slight angle with the transmission tunnel, making them face outward slightly (pointed towards the front tires). Maybe only a couple degrees which would be all but unnoticeable when driving, but could be the difference you need when choosing a seat size that fits with the rollbars. Also, a degree or two of inward lean might keep it from hitting on the rollbar at the top area above the side window. My OCD is screaming at me for even typing this, as I want to mount them 90į square in all three axis, but it seems to be dramatically limiting seat options... food for thought.
    Logan

    FFR Fanatic Since 1995
    2017 Mustang GT PP #95
    Gen3 Type 65-R: Ordered 4/32/19, delivered 6/29/19

  29. Thanks P100DHG thanked for this post
  30. #66
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    So I returned the QTR-R and I was really about to give up on Sparco but the shop owner insisted I retry the EVO. It’s what I would consider to be snug fit for me. I like a roomier seat. Frankly it’s probably a perfect fit and I just like to wiggle around a little more but I don’t think that’s the point with a racing seat. Anyway it’s also a much smaller seat than the QTR-R. I’m 5’10 size 34 waste just for reference. The seat is quite a bit shorter, the head rest shape is much more conducive to the coupe’s frame and narrower in the hips. This solved all the issues. DISCLAIMER: I haven’t tried it with seat brackets yet. But from my initial assessment this seat is made for the Coupe or the Coupe is made for this seat. I can get the seat all the way back and far forward. A guy whose 6’4” could drive the car with this seat. I’m impressed I have a ton of photos so if you need a certain angle I can post it but here is a few. (I might try for a slightly wider seat and push my luck)

    E4E0A7F0-58FA-47E8-BA51-425B6C5A7037.jpg D39775B4-1320-4E2C-85EF-9F5DCDE72DE9.jpg 0EBD82B4-F824-41D5-AC69-F7FA9553DD62.jpg B1B4B232-BD84-444A-8669-93E7D9CD34D4.jpg

    They do have the worlds ugliest fabric but they are getting reupholstered anyway.

    In other news I sorted out the radiator overflow and filler cap.

    B458E9F3-A039-4790-98D3-FD44B43A3053.jpg

    I also spoke to Dan at FFR about the wheel well design and panels. I like the old style panel so I think I’ll recreate it. The old style wrapped around the headers. It came in coupes 1-30 but was abandoned in favor of the current design for improved airflow. But I might add some sort bottom panels with louvers to draw air in. It was a lengthy discussion things are up in the air but here is a picture for reference of the older style panel.

    0C6F24D4-3EC0-4935-93D5-A59F998F5CC4.jpeg
    Last edited by P100DHG; 09-14-2019 at 01:42 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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