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Thread: P100DHG Build Thread - Gen 3 Coupe #138

  1. #81
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I personally haven't heard of checking the crankshaft endplay at that stage. While installing the crankshaft and lower end of the engine, yes. The only thing that would hold things up is from the input shaft into the crankshaft pilot bearing. The bell housing wouldn't seat if the input shaft isn't in the bearing. Then a matter of it going in so far it bottoms out or hangs up somehow. I personally do measure the input shaft and make sure it's the proper length for the bell housing, which with a common (and the recommended) parts has never been an issue. There's actually a considerable amount of in/out free play in the input shaft/pilot bearing that would prevent the crankshaft endplay from being affected. At least with the combinations I've had experience with. But now that you've confirmed it's OK, all good I guess. What I am surprised about is no one said anything to you about checking the bellhousing alignment. You said the Quicktime and Tremec instructions were basically worthless. But actually as I recall this is mentioned in both. Tremec even makes a point that if this step isn't followed, it could jeopardize your warranty. Almost makes me wonder if the guy from Roush was maybe thinking of this check versus the one you did. Who knows. But this is a pretty big deal. You'll get lots of guys on here that will agree. Plenty of YouTube videos. This one from Summit gives the idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxNn4qk_KlM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  2. #82
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Yup, did all that. Also the dowel pins were already set into engine by Roush. Maybe ďworthlessĒ is a dramatized word but if you put it into context and realize what I thought I was getting, an instruction manual with pictures, part lists and a step by step guide and what I got.... Youíre right though if I gave the impression donít read what it has to say or follow the directions and throw it in the trash I didnít mean that, I was being flippant. So DISCLAIMER: Read everything and follow directions. Thanks for your input here Paul, always love to hear your advice!

    -Danny
    Last edited by P100DHG; 12-02-2019 at 10:43 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  3. #83
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    Did I read that you used bolts to pull the trans the last fraction of an inch to mate to the bellhousing?

    Dave #17

  4. #84
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Tabor View Post
    Did I read that you used bolts to pull the trans the last fraction of an inch to mate to the bellhousing?

    Dave #17
    Yeah I made sure to use a torque wrench to do it though. It was touching the dowel pins and aligning correctly so it was fractions as you said. If I recall I set it to 15lbs and it never clicked so the force was far less. The idea was to get them to mate without breaking something. My final torque was 35lbs once everything was totally together. I mentioned this to all the experts I spoke to (I’m happy to list everyone if you guys want to cross check with them on you’re own builds.) but to summarize, Dave B. who puts the coyote kits together with Dan at FFR told me that sometimes they slide right together and other times they have to use that technique. I lightly greased my splines on the input shaft and crankshaft to aid in mating. I was careful not to glob it on and contaminate stuff. Not sure if it would. I was just being careful cause this was my first time. I was using an abundance of caution I took about 45 minutes or 1 hour to get it together. The transmission and bell housing are heavy and the engine moves a lot suspended on the crane. Hard to give an accurate description of the feeling or force I used but it felt smooth, not fighting against something. Meaning with little force it went together.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 12-03-2019 at 11:08 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  5. #85
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Parts on Order & Looking Forward

    Parts on Order:

    So after installing my engine I've been taking some time to just stare at it and understand what I'm up against. Understand the plumbing job to come. I intend to finish out the radiator sheet metal, mount the radiator and AC condenser. Then plumb everything, not sure if I am going to tackle the dashboard or electrical after that but plenty of time to decide.

    But now after my engine is installed I see a problem with the location I put my filler neck. It's too low... I will certainly have air in my system. So I looked for a solution, the good news is, the problem has been solved for me, bad news is I might have to remake that engine panel after relocating the filler neck unless I can fit my power steering reservoir in that position. Anyway, my good friend who lives down the street owns a Cobra, it's got a name 427Blur. It's on FFCars. Anyway he wasn't the original builder but he was having some overheating issues with it. He took it to a guy, Penzer Auto Concepts in Monrovia, CA who fixed the issue. The trick is getting the filler neck at its highest possible point. In the case of the Daytona and Cobra that's tough to do with a 351W block. So I looked to my friends car to find the genius solution and luckily I have pictures of his engine at different points in time to reference.

    Before the fix
    IMG_1667.jpg

    After the fix
    IMG_8003.jpg

    What we are looking at is he moved the filler neck to the intake manifold like a Chevy. I googled and googled and googled, hours of googling for 2 nights straight, I thought I would find it and I couldn't. So yesterday I stayed at home with my son who has been sick with a bug, it was nice to take some time to be with the cuddly guy and just hang. During nap I snuck into the garage and it came to me, if anyone knows what this thing is it's going to be Mark from Breeze Automotive and.... Of course he did! He said it was made by Cobra Earl who isn't around anymore but with a little research we were able to find it. Mark doesn't sell it but he knows all things, so lots of praise to him! It's now made by TD Motion and it's called:

    Sold as a Kit:
    302 – 427W FORD ULTRA THERMOSTAT HOUSING KIT

    Sold as an Adapter:
    BILLET FORD / GM THERMOSTAT HOUSING THERMOSTAT HOUSING – 302-351W

    I opted to buy the adapter and one can buy the Chevy Intake Manifold Filler Neck from Jegs or Summit made by a number of different manufactures (I opted for JEGS Intake Manifold Fill Neck Kit Polished and value engineered my purchase as theirs was on super sale for the holidays and I already have a filler cap I like)

    Notably I also ordered Vintage Air Gen IV Servo Heater Control Water Valve Kit. This is to replace the Thermotion valve supplied by FFR because a 351W doesn't require a bypass style valve like the Coyote does which eliminates more stuff and I intend to put this valve in between the bulkhead and the AC unit so under the dash eliminating clutter in the engine compartment. Question is will it work with the heater control supplied by FFR? Will it fit in the space?.... Stay tuned.

    Lastly I am changing out the supplied heater bulkhead connectors with these:

    Beduan 5/8'' Hose Barb Thru-Bulk Bulkhead Straight Hex Union Stainless Steel Fitting

    Anyway, I'm confident the Filler Neck Manifold Adapter will work, (which is the keywords I kept googling and coming up short on) but before you go on a buying frenzy give me some time to sort out the other parts and see if things work or not but this is the direction I am heading.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 12-06-2019 at 12:21 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  6. #86
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Another Problem, Another Solution

    I'm pushing these short updates rather than holding back right now because I am hoping it will help someone at a similar point. Also I am aggregating my research findings to this thread so it can be a one stop shop of sorts for these common questions that are spread out over multiple threads and posts. I am finding my answers but it's required searching around.

    Tremec TKO600 Tail Shaft Donut
    So I posted a question HERE as it relates to the backend of my transmission where the drive shaft inserts. When I posted the question, I knew the driveshaft went in somewhere but didn't understand what I was looking at. I installed my engine not knowing what was what, figuring I would address it later. This is the part where you probably are like... How the hell is this guy building a car knowing literally nothing about cars?.... The answer is research! and Paul's brilliant explanations . So here is what we are looking at.

    IMG_4547.jpg

    The shipping seal commonly called a donut needs to move out of the way. As I understand it, it needs to come out or get pushed in. Jumping straight to the point, I took mine out. If you notice it is sitting proud of the rear seal and so I could easily grab it with a vise grip from it's inner portion/ inner diameter, staying clear away from the rear seal (that's the outer most piece of rubber). I spoke to Tremec and they said it can be removed or it can be pushed in and they recommend pushing because a lot guys mistake the rear seal for the donut and attempt to rip the rear seal off the transmission.... Or get so crazy about taking the donut out that they damage the rear seal with screwdrivers and pliers and the like. Mine was a perfect candidate for removal so that's what I opted for.

    In some cases the donut does not sit proud as it did in mine and is recessed as in this example found HERE

    image.jpg

    It becomes very difficult to remove and thus pushing it in might be the better option but here is where my hands-on knowledge now comes in. It's rubber and it wants to hold onto that tail shaft for dear life. It's stretchy and so when you pull on it, it doesn't really move, it just stretches. Patience here is key cause if you damage that seal it's a sad day. I just took my time with it and it came out working various sides. Now if I understand physics, pushing it in is likely just as difficult as pulling it out so I'm not sure how that would be even possible because it wasn't easy getting it out and not damaging something but I guess it is since it's recommended but the internet is filled with frustrated guys dealing with this issue.

    For reference here is it naked, without the donut

    IMG_4659 2.jpg

    Here is the donut

    59730508247__6ABA30FA-5034-4F83-9EB1-81C82DD32FB0.JPG

    Notice the outer ridge on the donut, well there is an inner ridge on the rear seal so those ridges touch which is another reason why I don't understand how it can be pushed in without damaging something but clearly if they recommend it, it's possible. And just to note the metal thing in the center is the tail shaft, and from what I can tell that hole in the middle isn't for anything. But the driveshaft slides in there and fits over that tail shaft and displaces that donut.

    I decided to explain this because I know I am not the only one who has this question or is/was confused so I might as well swallow my pride and admit I could have benefited from this explanation honestly.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  7. #87
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    Good point. This caused confusion for me as well. The donut was so far in, I had no idea it was not part of the seal. I couldn't understand why the driveshaft wouldn't mate. Hopefully, your post will save novice builders like me time in the future.
    Gen 3 Coupe, Gen 2 Coyote, Wilwoods, IRS, Power Steering, AC JDAVIS500 Build Thread

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  9. #88
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    TD Motion Filler Neck and Vintage Air Heater Servo Valve

    TD Motion Filler Neck

    This part is my savior, without it I would have had over heating issues for sure. As I said in my previous post, I bought just the adapter rather than the whole kit so I could choose my own GM/Chevy manifold filler neck/ thermostat housing (thatís what a lot of parts distributors call it) and it was a little cheaper to do it that way because of the holiday sales. Some interesting things to note:

    1. You will need a new gasket after taking off the old intake manifold water inlet. I ask TD Motion if I could buy one from them and they gave me one at no charge. Donít reuse the old gasket.
    2. Due to a combination of factors I had a small issue. I have AC and Power steering and the working room for the adapter I couldnít get a wrench on the provided 5/16 x 1Ē and the 5/16 x 1.5Ē hex head bolts (particularly the 1.5Ē one) so I purchased stainless Allen style bolts in the same sizes. Fixed the issue.
    3. The hose that came with my engine that connects the water pump to the TD Motion adapter was not compatible so I bought a pre-bent 5/8Ē heater hose. Total rip off frankly at $15.
    4. The 1/4Ē barb fitting that came with my Jegs filler neck I swapped for an AN fitting so it will match the stainless braided lines in the rest of the car. Also the thermostat housing I bought had 3 ports in the back for a heater connection I presume... I plugged all 3 for now till I tackle that later in the build. Not sure if the heater hose comes off that or off the top of the intake or either. I still need to review the schematics. To be continued...

    The install process is straightforward what I didnít fully grasp was the orientation of the thermostat, I took a picture and sent it to Danny Penzer and of course I had it upside down so he saved me. Thankfully I had the foresight to ask someone. He also gave me a pro tip and said drill 1/8Ē holes opposite each other so I have a small bypass. Since he fixed my buddies car and it runs great I have no reason to question his judgement here. The correct orientation looks like this:

    09BB0AD9-F4D4-4964-A377-0A5265499DD0.jpg

    Final install looks like this:

    DFDE68C9-4974-49B6-9F1E-3F3AFD9F11A0.jpg

    Vintage Air Heater Valve and 5/8Ē Barb Bulkhead Fittings

    The Stainless 5/8Ē Barb Bulkhead fittings worked great. It saved a ton of room compared to the FFR provided bulk head fittings. Itís just needed on the heater side for this particular application. Just to note I think the Termotion valve will fit behind the dash with some coercing. The problem is I didnít have foresight to but it behind the dash. I was drilling holes per the directions and I didnít think this many steps ahead. The thermotion bypass valve has offset connectors and would require the holes to be drilled in a different places. I didnít realize all this until after my panels were powered coated and permanently installed. But the Vintage Air valve is the perfect fit. However the particular valve I bought might not be the perfect solution for everyone and here is why. The valve I bought is open or closed it can't be regulated. So it all the way open or all the way closed. They do make one that can be regulated itís marginally more expensive but like the thermotion valve it requires a control module and dial. I donít mind buying the other one and returning this one but Iím thinking about how I want my car to look and I want it to be super clean, free of clutter and this might be a blessing in disguise because I can install a simple on-off-on toggle switch for my AC and Heat. Also I live in Southern California and itís summer here like 360 days out of the year. Also I imagine that 427 is going to be warm despite all the lizard skin insulation I put in. Okay enough with the justification letís move on. Here is how it looks installed:

    F5EBC1D5-C36C-49F0-AFA3-157AAB6E6F91.jpg

    Here is how it works. The red wire if for 12v power. The blue wire is permanently grounded and this tells the valve to stay closed. The black wire is going to be on a relay and switched to ground. When the switch is activated the valve opens and hot coolant comes into the heater and begins to flow through. The small block ford does not require a bypass valve so this application is very good. Without the Barb style bulkhead fittings in either the vintage air or thermotion the behind dash application isnít possible. It wouldnít have enough room.

    On to mounting the AC dryer and power steering reservoir (coming today in the mail). Iíll plumb everything and then on to the radiator sheet metal.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 12-14-2019 at 04:40 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  10. #89
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Polishing AC Fittings

    I started on plumbing the AC today. No good way to hide the AC fittings from the bulkhead to the dryer and compressor. So... it’s going to need some elbow grease. The fittings are aluminum, they come scratched, pitted and have machine marks on them from bending or welding. They are dull and well not on par with where I am going with this build. No doubt they do the job they are supposed to, but fit and finish are #1 on this build. I don’t mind the extra work or even rework to get it right. I decided to polish my fittings. I used the following materials and processes, I experimented with different methods but skipping a step or doing something different didn’t yield the desired results.

    I am going to break up the fitting/connector into 3 parts. You’ll notice the nut, the tube and the hose fitting. The hose fitting and the nut requires no sanding but the tube does. It’s pitted, dull, and even has machine marks where they bent the fitting. I played around with different grits of sandpaper 400, 320 but I settled on 220 which got out the pitting and machine marks nicely. But now the tube looks worse than when I started, which is good. Gotta start with a good foundation. Next I used Red Scotchbrite and went over the tube with the red Scotchbrite. I didn’t touch the hose fitting or nut those are left alone and not sanded at all (I know I said this already but I’m driving the point home).

    After prep is done we can now polish. We need 3 products all made by Mothers. We start with PowerMetal (this is for scratch removing, it will get out our sanding marks), Mag & Aluminum Polish (this will bring a bright shiny luster to our parts), and finally Billet Automotive Metal Polish (which will bring the parts to a mirror like finish). I used the same pad for all 3 polishes and just applied the polish directly to the fitting with my finger. The buffed them with a Ryobi 6” bench grinder and the same polishing pad I used to bring the rivets and screws for my panels to a mirror finish. A reaction occurs between the polish and aluminum, it will begin to leave a black residue. This is a very good sign, this means the polishing is working, if we didn’t see this it wouldn’t be working. In between each product wipe the black residue off and enjoy the fruits of your labor, with each step the fitting will become more and more shiny. Just a note, kept the protective plastic plugs on my fittings while polishing.

    The results are remarkable. It’s a total transformation. I honestly can’t believe how good they look. Now, I am not going to do every fitting but the 2 that come off the bulkhead and the 2 that comes off the compressor are getting this treatment the rest I am just leaving alone.

    The first picture shows the before and after, the top fitting is not polished and the bottom is polished (pictures don’t do it justice). The second picture shows them installed you can see my reflection in them. The third is the polishes I used. The fourth I mocked up the panels cause I was curious how things are looking and I’d say they are looking quite well. I think they will conceal the plumbing very nicely. I plan to have the upper firewall panel that has not been powder coated behind the engine wrapped in diamond stitched leather. Should be a nice little touch.

    IMG_4823.jpg IMG_4827.jpeg IMG_4825.jpg IMG_4833.jpg
    Last edited by P100DHG; 12-17-2019 at 01:20 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  11. #90
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Thought Capsule 2.0 & Hose Mock Up

    Thought Capsule 2.0

    Sorry guys not a lot of pictures in this one, more like an entry into my build journal.

    So as you might have read I’ve taken some design liberties under the hood and with my seat design. One area of the car I’ve lamented is the dash. The gauge layout is packed in one corner. The gap between the trans tunnel and the dash leaves room for improvement as others have done. Though the FFR supplied GPS gauges are nice they aren’t going to work for this level of build. I would have liked to use them but there are a few problems with them from a design perspective. One is they lack dimension, two is they are back lit and not side lit and lastly they are just too generic for this build, they don’t have enough character. In early December, I visited North Hollywood Speedometer (when I did a restomod '64 VW Bug more than a decade ago I bought my gauges there) and Ralph the owner and I spent an hour talking through my options. What we’ve tentatively decided was, we need to get some original Smith’s Gauges and restore and customize the faces. I love nice watches. My favorite brand is IWC and the way they make and design watches is very inspiring. The watches I love use dimension, raised Arabic numbers, crisp fonts. Their Pilot's chronograph and Portuguese Chronograph are great examples of this. What does this have to do with Smith's gauges? Well, they aren't 1 dimensional like the gauges that come with the kit. They have raised and lowered sections of the dial face, so this should help give some dimension to a very flat and boring dash. Also black gauges aren't going to cut it here, we need something that plays off the seats, interior leather and silver powder coated metal feel. So brown gauge faces are what I am going for and just to pull in the outside color in, maybe a blue clock, could add a nice contrast. There are some other ideas I have to make it more classy and high end but I'll leave those a surprise. We are going to start this mid January and it will take several months to work through, design and fabricate.

    Rewinding to November. I began to develop some really great connections through my brother, one is a guy named Dorian Valenzuela he owns a shops called DV Mechanics and he is known for his impeccable Alpha Rameo restorations (he's helped answer some engine and mechanical questions for me) and the other guy is Tim Gregorio. I really like the the dimpled kick panels and floor boards on the Singer Porsche as I mentioned in my preview post. So I was looking at reverse engineering what they had done with theirs and I was having my brother look at pictures of their interior with me and we were talking about the rubber domed pieces in the floor board and my brother says, “let’s ask Tim.” I couldn’t believe he knew someone there. Anyway as it turns out Tim is the head of client relations at Singer and he was there when Singer got its first roots. So my brother connected Tim and I and we talked and as it turns out we actually live very close to each other, so a week or so ago he came over to my house and took a look at my car.

    The timing couldn’t have been better. Tim brought so much knowledge to the design process it’s amazing. While I was interested in placing my gauges and laying them out and talking design, Tim was more interested in my seating position. He asked if I was going to use the FFR supplied steering wheel. I told him I wasn’t planning on it. So he said I should get my desired steering wheel on first. Get my seating position dialed in and then layout the gauges so they aren’t obstructed. Absolutely genius! Seems obvious now but it wasn't obvious to me at the time, that's for sure.

    It was also nice to bounce ideas off of someone who does this at such a high level. One of their cars starts at $400,000 is my understanding and they have like a 4 year waitlist. But even better than all this was to just talk shop and cars with a guy who knows so much about them. Everything from a Tiguan to a $400,000+ 911. So I just want to thank him for his time and I definitely got a lot out of our meeting and also it was nice to know I am heading in the right direction. Tim was kind enough to offer to come back and we can figure out the gauge layout once I get my gauges set from North Hollywood Speedometer. Also I'm starting to think about AC ducting and vents and how I want that to be laid out.

    While all this percolates I’ve gotta finish the plumbing....

    I did order my steering wheel. I got the Momo Grand Prix and Russ Thompson is going to modify the hub to match the bolt pattern

    momo-grand-prix-mahogany-woodsilver-spoke-350mm-street-steering-wheel-faf-automotive-441533_2000.jpg


    Hose Mock Up

    So I really don't want to see hoses and wiring everywhere, even a clean plumbing and wiring job it's what I'm after, I'm after concealed. I have been figuring out my hoses and fittings working through the various sizes, styles, etc. But now I've got everything ready to go. I've got my power steering rack converted to AN fittings, I've to my heater fittings installed on my intake, I have my power steering reservoir mounted in the former position of my inline radiator neck. All hoses exit and enter on the passenger side down a single path. I mocked up everything in scrap wire, VF Sales will cut and assemble the hoses for free because I bought the fittings and hose from them. I label the wire, what area of the car it's for, what fittings it goes to and from, and VF Sales will cut the hose to length based on the length of the wire and assemble it to the fittings. If you open the thumbnail you can see the path of travel of the wires. What goes where. Once I get the hoses made I'll get you guys better pictures of the path of travel. I'm just illustrating the process here.

    Exposed:

    IMG_4969.jpg

    Concealed:

    IMG_4968.jpg


    I’ll give an update mid January once all the parts come back in from the various vendors. Happy New Year!
    Last edited by P100DHG; 01-01-2020 at 12:14 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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    Boring Update

    So a quick update. I had a setback. I hadn’t attached my chassis transmission mounting plate to the transmission mount until this past weekend and it wouldn’t align. The problem is that the motor mount interferes with the block, cocking the transmission off in one direction. A common problem according to FFR and Roush on Dart blocks. I have to relieve the excess metal on motor mounts so that means the engine has to get suspended by the crane, motor mounts out, fixed and reinstalled. As Dave B. put it, it’s all part of the journey. I’ll document the process. My wife is out of town and I have my 3 year old solo so probably next weekend it will be done.

    Also Ralph at North Hollywood Speedometer had a setback, one of his guys has to take extended personal leave so he can’t take on my project. He referred me to Pete at Nisonger Instruments. He specializes in Smiths gauges and he’s going to take on the project. Sending him the deposit Monday to get going. If someone needs a set of GPS gauges I’ve got some for sale. I’ll make you a good deal.

    Power steering is plumbed. I’ll go over that in the next update. Once I get the motor mount issue resolved I’ll finish the radiator and interior sheet metal. From there I think the electrical will go fast and I might if I’m lucky have this this firing by end of April. I’ve got sinus surgery scheduled for early February so that will be a setback for sure. Also major factor is getting my headers modified to have a collector, O2 bung installed and if I can a ball and swivel joint installed. Lots of items to check off the list, no rush but I just need to keep making steady progress.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 01-16-2020 at 11:11 PM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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    Fixing Big Issues, Modifying the Motor Mounts, Transmission Mounting

    REWIND!:

    I am going to keep this short and to the point.

    Remember when I said here, "I had a real issue getting the engine mounts to line up, it took hours to get it just right. In fact I stepped away from it Saturday and came back Sunday with a fresh head and strength and got everything seated. My advice here is get the passenger side mount dowel pin and stud seated first. Then work the driver's side."

    Well here is why!

    On the block just below the mounting points is a buttress. It is meant to strengthen this area.

    IMG_5113.jpg

    This buttress interferes with the motor mount causing a 1/8" gap. That gap is enough to cause huge issues. One issues is its going to be extremely difficult to marry the mount to the mounting points on the car. Secondly, the transmission will not align. See picture of gap.

    IMG_5078.jpg

    The solution is to trim the mount in my opinion. FFR said shave the engine block. Roush said modify the mounts. I went with Roush on this one because it's cheaper to replace motor mounts than the block if I screwed up.

    IMG_5116.jpg IMG_5117.jpg

    The result after install was night and day. My new philosophy with this build is 1mm might as well be a mile. That's the difference this made. The process was, I suspended the engine in place with the engine hoist and removed the motor mounts, shaved them, tested them, shaved them, tested them and so on until they sat flush, reinstalled them, and the engine glided into place. 3 days of fighting alignment to get my engine in previously, took 3 seconds this time, no exaggeration. Once again I have swallowed my pride and hope you learn from my issues.

    Transmission Mounting:

    The directions are hard to tell but if you are doing a SBF (289,302,351, blah blah blah) & TKO600 pay attention here. The directions to me and to everyone else that have looked at them show the L shaped flange at the end of the transmission mount facing down.

    Screen Shot 2020-01-21 at 9.30.13 PM.jpg

    WRONG! IT FACES UP!

    IMG_5148.jpg

    When it's down the transmission is cocked off to one side dramatically, when its up it's correctly aligned.

    INCORRECT RESULT: - FACING DOWN

    IMG_5118.jpg

    CORRECT RESULT - FACING UP

    IMG_5147.jpg

    I have little dignity left at this point... But I great sense of accomplishment! ONWARD! I am glad to put this behind me and moving forward.

    This is likely my last update until after my sinus surgery. So look for something middle to end of February. From here I am confident the build will speed up my goal is to have my gauges being made and my sheet metal at powder coat while I recover so that time is productive.
    Last edited by P100DHG; 01-26-2020 at 12:43 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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  15. #93
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Those extra webs on the DART block interfering with the Energy Suspension mounts is talked about quite a bit on here, and happened to me too on my #7750 Roadster build with a DART 347 build. My engine builder also said to notch the mounts, not the block. They ended up looking just like yours and solved the problem. He said the same thing. Why would you cut into a couple thousand dollar block and not a pair of hundred dollar mounts? Agree as well about that rear transmission mount. It's purposely designed to go multiple directions to accommodate different engine/trans combinations. Which I like compare to the A-frame used on Roadsters. But the instructions are confusing and also in my case didn't work. Your final alignment is exactly how it should be.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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  17. #94
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    Rear vents

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Putting the body mounts under the vent screens is a rather clever way IMO of hiding the rear body mounting bolts. As has already been pointed out, they're not functional. Even if you cut them open, not much is going to happen. There's an aluminum panel on the other side that walls off the hatch area. Carpeted if you're doing that. The Coupe that Factory Five wind tunnel tested had vents behind the rear wheels. But not on the back. https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-ne...esting-report/
    Another possibility and what I have done on my Gen 3 coupe. I cut the fiberglass and fit the screen so it would be able to attach similar to the side screens with a flange behind the back panel. I did not like the fake look of the body behind the screen and having to deal with the sharp edges of the screen against the paint. I used the right hand body mount on the left side and left body mount on the right side relocating the mounting locations to the body. I did not want to have bolts protrude out the back of the body so I fabricated two sheet metal plates and welded studs as appropriate to connect to the body mount brackets. Once positioned I attached the sheet metal plates to the inside of the back panel and then laminated them in place with a couple layers of fiberglass Matt.

  18. #95
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nerglhad View Post
    Another possibility and what I have done on my Gen 3 coupe. I cut the fiberglass and fit the screen so it would be able to attach similar to the side screens with a flange behind the back panel. I did not like the fake look of the body behind the screen and having to deal with the sharp edges of the screen against the paint. I used the right hand body mount on the left side and left body mount on the right side relocating the mounting locations to the body. I did not want to have bolts protrude out the back of the body so I fabricated two sheet metal plates and welded studs as appropriate to connect to the body mount brackets. Once positioned I attached the sheet metal plates to the inside of the back panel and then laminated them in place with a couple layers of fiberglass Matt.
    Great idea. Excellent explanation. I love it. I am going to run it by Jeff Miller who is doing the paint. Get his blessing. He will be doing all the body alignment, door fitment, etc on my build I have no appetite to attach that. I don't want anything to crack so I have to get his blessing. If he green lights it I am going for it.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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    Happy you like the idea and I would be happy to send some photos if you have any questions. I think if you hold the reversed brackets in place as described you will see how easy it is. A little tight to get the bracket installed over the stud so don't use a stud any longer than necessary. I am approximately 85% done with my coupe but always enjoy reading about yours and other builds.

  20. #97
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nerglhad View Post
    Happy you like the idea and I would be happy to send some photos if you have any questions. I think if you hold the reversed brackets in place as described you will see how easy it is. A little tight to get the bracket installed over the stud so don't use a stud any longer than necessary. I am approximately 85% done with my coupe but always enjoy reading about yours and other builds.
    If it isn’t too much trouble I would love some pictures. Thank you!
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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    Coupe rear vents

    39D94279-27EB-4C72-BF91-651C4FE65BFE.jpeg39D94279-27EB-4C72-BF91-651C4FE65BFE.jpeg
    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    If it isnít too much trouble I would love some pictures. Thank you!
    Can you send me an email address, I tried but I apparently do not know how to attach photos on the forum .
    My email address is dahlgrendouglas@gmail.com
    Text 308-991-8206
    Would love to stay in touch. Enjoying my build very much and 85% done.
    Doug Dahlgren
    FFR 000069
    Holdrege Ne.

  22. #99
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    Would you be able to provide your email address? Was not able to send pictures on the forum . My email address is dahlgrendouglas@gmail.com
    Send me an email and I would be happy to reply with some photos.
    Doug Dahlgren
    FFR 000069
    Holdrege Ne.
    Last edited by Nerglhad; 01-26-2020 at 10:32 AM.

  23. #100
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Design Update

    Quick update. Radiator tunnel is ready for powder coat, and I picked my gauge colors. Speedo, Tach, volts, fuel, water temp and oil pressure in brown with white writing and adding a clock that’s going to be blue with white writing. I am going with a counter-clockwise speedometer just for fun and mechanical odometer for the vintage look.

    F572001D-380D-485E-A3BE-94418A2B2A6A.jpg 8DCBA21E-9A08-400F-B368-0C4512315E89.jpg

    E5FE8A08-466A-45A4-BEA6-FC5E78831435.jpeg 5A631816-D80E-490F-8078-66DDDF9E8437.jpeg

    The radiator tunnel went surprisingly fast which means when I am recovered from surgery the assembly should be quick, I have a couple plumbing items but I don’t see it taking more than a day or two and I can finish plumbing and head straight into under-hood wiring.

    I have my dash layout set but I won’t reveal it till later. Keep you guys on the edge of your seats, LOL
    Last edited by P100DHG; 01-26-2020 at 12:38 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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