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Thread: Carl's 20th Anniversary #8690 - GO CART!!!

  1. #161
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Cool Elec Power Steering Install Complete --- It's almost TIME... To... Go Kart...

    Received my modified steering arm back from the welder today. I had to cut out 9"+/- out of it to install the Electric Power Steering unit. So now the entire EPS is installed, and tested... works fantastic while sitting in the garage. Exactly as advertised... Could be the best $599 I've spent on an upgrade. Well except perhaps that BluePrint Engine...

    I purchased the EPowerSteering.com complete kit. Everything new and ready to install. You can also see a thread about it HERE.

    But before I did anything, I followed the rack centering instructions posted here in the forums. And then I loosely installed the steering wheel onto the steering shaft. Then, as I put the EPS in, I was able to index the steering wheel in what should be a straight up and down configuration when I'm actually going straight. Having 3 spline joints in the system that made it fairly easy to get pretty darn close. Final alignment will be the real tell...

    Then after tightening down all of the attachment points and connecting the wiring that I had prepared a few weeks back I removed the upper steering shaft out of the car. I sanded the top (rear) half of it so that I could paint it with my dark gray that matches the 20th Anv frame powder coat. After a couple coats and letting it dry, I then installed the upper shaft down into the lower shaft along with the 2 little wavy washers. I also put some standard wheel grease on that shaft so that it would slide in easily now, but more important to prevent rust and in hopes of it being able to be remove easily later if needed. On the wheel end of the shaft, where the aluminum hub slides onto the steel shaft, I put some aluminum anti-seize on there and then put the bolt in and pulled it down onto the shaft. I was then able to sit in the seat and like telescopic steering slide the shaft in and out to find the exact location that I was comfortable while sitting in my "relaxed" driving position. Locked down all of the set screws in the bearings as well as the splines and I think it's all but done. I will still pull out the main steering wheel bolt and put some locktite on it to call it 100% done. The steering feels very tight with zero play in the wheel side to side...

    Anyway, here are some photos of the steering system completed.
    IMG_2436.jpg IMG_2441.jpg IMG_2437.jpg IMG_2440.jpg


    QUESTION: in this photo, am I missing anything as far as a beauty ring or something or is this the way it is designed to look?
    IMG_2438.jpg

    If all goes to plan, I will do some ride height and alignment adjustments tomorrow and then Wednesday (weather permitting) I'll take it out for a very short, quick test drive.
    Last edited by BadAsp427; 11-05-2018 at 08:57 PM.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
    Build Thread Click Here

  2. #162
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    QUESTION: in this photo, am I missing anything as far as a beauty ring or something or is this the way it is designed to look?
    IMG_2438.jpg
    That's the stock look. Mike has this trim ring, although don't know about the fit on your dash: http://www.replicaparts.com/dash%20s...ert%20page.htm.

    Many use the Russ Thompson turn signal setup which fills that all in and provides a more finished look.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
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  3. #163
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Received my modified steering arm back from the welder today. I had to cut out 9"+/- out of it to install the Electric Power Steering unit. So now the entire EPS is installed, and tested... works fantastic while sitting in the garage. Exactly as advertised... Could be the best $599 I've spent on an upgrade. Well except perhaps that BluePrint Engine...

    I purchased the EPowerSteering.com complete kit. Everything new and ready to install. You can also see a thread about it HERE.

    But before I did anything, I followed the rack centering instructions posted here in the forums. And then I loosely installed the steering wheel onto the steering shaft. Then, as I put the EPS in, I was able to index the steering wheel in what should be a straight up and down configuration when I'm actually going straight. Having 3 spline joints in the system that made it fairly easy to get pretty darn close. Final alignment will be the real tell...

    Then after tightening down all of the attachment points and connecting the wiring that I had prepared a few weeks back I removed the upper steering shaft out of the car. I sanded the top (rear) half of it so that I could paint it with my dark gray that matches the 20th Anv frame powder coat. After a couple coats and letting it dry, I then installed the upper shaft down into the lower shaft along with the 2 little wavy washers. I also put some standard wheel grease on that shaft so that it would slide in easily now, but more important to prevent rust and in hopes of it being able to be remove easily later if needed. On the wheel end of the shaft, where the aluminum hub slides onto the steel shaft, I put some aluminum anti-seize on there and then put the bolt in and pulled it down onto the shaft. I was then able to sit in the seat and like telescopic steering slide the shaft in and out to find the exact location that I was comfortable while sitting in my "relaxed" driving position. Locked down all of the set screws in the bearings as well as the splines and I think it's all but done. I will still pull out the main steering wheel bolt and put some locktite on it to call it 100% done. The steering feels very tight with zero play in the wheel side to side...

    Anyway, here are some photos of the steering system completed.
    IMG_2436.jpg IMG_2441.jpg IMG_2437.jpg IMG_2440.jpg


    QUESTION: in this photo, am I missing anything as far as a beauty ring or something or is this the way it is designed to look?
    IMG_2438.jpg

    If all goes to plan, I will do some ride height and alignment adjustments tomorrow and then Wednesday (weather permitting) I'll take it out for a very short, quick test drive.
    Carl,

    Like Paul already said, that's it for the FFR padded dash. I looked at the trim ring that Mike sells, but didn't want to cut the structure out of that part of the dash to install it. Just one thing that you may want to look at though. From the position of the steering column in the opening, it looks like your dash may be a bit high. Watch for the body hitting on the gauge at the far left as you set the body on. Without any bulb seal, my body was right on the gauge bezel. I trimmed the body back about 1/2" under the cowl to ensure it wouldn't rub on the face of the dash or the gauge.

    Also, in your gauge-focused video of the first start, it looked like your inertia switch was mounted button down. If you are actually using the RF fuel pump relay, you may want to flip that over.

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
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    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  4. #164
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Carl,
    Like Paul already said, that's it for the FFR padded dash. I looked at the trim ring that Mike sells, but didn't want to cut the structure out of that part of the dash to install it. Just one thing that you may want to look at though. From the position of the steering column in the opening, it looks like your dash may be a bit high. Watch for the body hitting on the gauge at the far left as you set the body on. Without any bulb seal, my body was right on the gauge bezel. I trimmed the body back about 1/2" under the cowl to ensure it wouldn't rub on the face of the dash or the gauge.
    Also, in your gauge-focused video of the first start, it looked like your inertia switch was mounted button down. If you are actually using the RF fuel pump relay, you may want to flip that over.

    Dave
    Yeah, I knew I mounted it upside down, LOL just have not flipped it over yet... I've banged it a few times and it seems to be ok that way, but I do know I need to flip it. Thanks for looking out...

    As far as the dash goes, it is down right on top of the 3/4" arch tube... If I take it any lower, the top edge would be below that tube... I hope it's all good... Thanks again. We will find out.. It is flat at the top of the arch and then down at the corners it is just below/right at the 3/4" tube... It actually states in the instructions that came with the plastic padded dash from FF that I would fit like this... Fingers crossed it will be good.
    IMG_2379v2.jpg
    Last edited by BadAsp427; 11-05-2018 at 09:45 PM.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
    Build Thread Click Here

  5. #165
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Yeah, I knew I mounted it upside down, LOL just have not flipped it over yet... I've banged it a few times and it seems to be ok that way, but I do know I need to flip it. Thanks for looking out...

    As far as the dash goes, it is down right on top of the 3/4" arch tube... If I take it any lower, the top edge would be below that tube... I hope it's all good... Thanks again. We will find out.. It is flat at the top of the arch and then down at the corners it is just below/right at the 3/4" tube... It actually states in the instructions that came with the plastic padded dash from FF that I would fit like this... Fingers crossed it will be good.
    IMG_2379v2.jpg
    Sounds like the dash is where it should be, and mine is the same as you describe. Maybe the difference in the column location is simply due to the differences in our steering setups. Your going to be done before me at the pace you are working at. I can't wait to see your graduation post!

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  6. #166
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Yeah, I knew I mounted it upside down, LOL just have not flipped it over yet... I've banged it a few times and it seems to be ok that way, but I do know I need to flip it. Thanks for looking out...

    As far as the dash goes, it is down right on top of the 3/4" arch tube... If I take it any lower, the top edge would be below that tube... I hope it's all good... Thanks again. We will find out.. It is flat at the top of the arch and then down at the corners it is just below/right at the 3/4" tube... It actually states in the instructions that came with the plastic padded dash from FF that I would fit like this... Fingers crossed it will be good.
    IMG_2379v2.jpg
    Glad you posted this picture Carl, as I'm going to be fitting my dash soon enough, and I need to know where the steering tube is coming through, as I need to cut a larger hole in the center for the RT Turn signal mod. Hopefully with it sitting lower there is enough room!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  7. #167
    BluePrintEngines's Avatar
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    Sounds and looks awesome!!! thanks so much for posting! guys always ask how they sound, and its tough to find a good video!!! can't wait to see it tearing up the streets!!

    Johnny
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  8. #168
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Well today was the big day... I put in about 1 gal of gasoline, hooked up the elect fuel pump, and as you will see in the video, pumped the carb a couple times and the BluePrint Engine fired up after only a couple of cranks.
    This is awesome, congratulations! I'm about ready to turn the key on mine as well, probably this weekend.

  9. #169
    RR20AC's Avatar
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    Congrats on the first start! If that electric steering works like mine, you'll love it. I set my alignment for power steering so when off I am not sure if manual feel is correct. It's nice to have the option in different types of driving though.
    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Cobra Colorist. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017

  10. #170
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    First GoCart ----- Oh Yeah!!!

    With a very big grin on my face I'm excited to announce that today I was able to take #8690, Factory Five Roadster 20th Anniversary #008 out for it's first drive. After spending about 20 minutes adjusting the timing and idle to get it where I wanted for now, I started the video below. This was from my GoPro that I've used many times in both my son's and my own race cars with no problem. But today I had a minor one. I guess it was rattling inside the case so the audio is picking up that, but it also picked up issue #1 that I have. The U-Joints/Pinion angle, more on this in a moment. So enjoy the short ride, I did not go any further after I realized that the U-joints were not happy. But I did not park it until I goosed it just a little...

    As I say in the video, I can just feel the power wanting to be unleashed. I'm going to take a couple day break from the build, catch up on some household chores and then get back to it this weekend. All I can say right now is WOW! That was a fun, short, but very fun little drive.

    So a Question.

    - The Drive shaft has a significant angle going from the transmission and then angling up to the pinion. (2015 IRS) I need to put some spacers in the trans mount and raise up the tail... Where is the best place for the spacers? Under the "A" frame or between the "A" frame and the trans mount? Perhaps between the trans mount and trans? Just curious your thoughts. I was planning to pick up some Grade 8 Washers and get that drive shaft angle much closer to where it needs to be this weekend.


    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
    Build Thread Click Here

  11. #171
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    That was awesome! Gives me some inspiration to get on mine this week so we can go cruising. By the way, Forte sells a TKO spacer kit if you want to go that route.

    http://fortesparts.com/index.php/pro...on-spacer-kit/
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  13. #172
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    Either forte or breeze make trans mount spacers to fix the pinion angle, I'm sure someone will post a link if you don't find them.

  14. #173
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Excited to say that I just went back out to the garage to turn everything off and lock up for the night and found the issue with the U-Joints. I reached down and turned the drive shaft back and forth. Lots of play. Looked down in there at the same time and can see that the U-joint flange that attached directly to the pinion adapter plate was loose... Or should I say the bolts were tight, but too long. I had seen this in other posts, but until I put some pressure by driving it, I could not see/feel it. After a few revolutions it was easy to see... Simple fix this weekend when I go back to it... I'll cut those bolts just a tad shorter... I actually measured the hole and the bolts and they are basically the exact same so I'm certain a 1/16" will be all it will take. I like simple fixes.... Still need to raise the trans up a bit, but that again is a very simple fix...

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
    Build Thread Click Here

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    Congrats! Thanks for posting. It is always inspiring to get first hand, Pics, progress on a build.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

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  17. #175
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    Congrats on the go-kart. You absolutely need to shim up that TKO. Mine needed 3/4-inch. Since yours is the same setup, expect it would be the same. Stack of washers works, but not what I did. Forte sells 3/8-inch spacers that can be stacked. I made mine out of a 3/4-inch aluminum bar. Goes between the mounting ears on the transmission and the transmission A-frame. You'll need longer bolts. Looked for a picture but couldn't find one. Pretty straightforward though.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
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  19. #176
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Congratulations Bad-Asp!
    .....We Can't Wait To See Your Next Video!



    Also, here's a little U-Joint Phasing Video that we can all use.

    https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-07-2018 at 08:06 PM.

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  21. #177
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Goes between the mounting ears on the transmission and the transmission A-frame. You'll need longer bolts. Looked for a picture but couldn't find one.
    Thanks Paul,
    I'll figure something out, it is pretty straight forward as you say.... But I do not understand the above. I have the trans mount of course... so did you mean to say the spacer you put in is between the transmission ears and the top of the transmission mount? Or between the trans mount and the A frame? I guess it really doesn't matter a whole lot..

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
    Build Thread Click Here

  22. #178


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Congrats on hitting the milestone What ratio steering rack are you using---looks like a lot of turns.

    Jeff

  23. #179
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Congrats on hitting the milestone What ratio steering rack are you using---looks like a lot of turns.

    Jeff
    It is the Manual rack from FF... I'm guessing it is 15:1 It is only 3 complete turns, lock to lock...

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
    Build Thread Click Here

  24. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Thanks Paul,
    I'll figure something out, it is pretty straight forward as you say.... But I do not understand the above. I have the trans mount of course... so did you mean to say the spacer you put in is between the transmission ears and the top of the transmission mount? Or between the trans mount and the A frame? I guess it really doesn't matter a whole lot..
    Sorry. Brain cramp. Yes, between the transmission ears and the Energy Suspension transmission mount. No change in the connection between the transmission mount and the A frame.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Congratulations Bad-Asp!
    .....We Can't Wait To See Your Next Video!



    Also, here's a little U-Joint Phasing Video that we can all use.

    https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4
    Good video, GoDad - i learned something by watching that!

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    What a great video! Thanks for posting, BadAsp - A victorious day, that's for sure!

  27. #183
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Congratulations - no better feeling! Glad you quickly figured out your noise.

    Chris
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  28. #184
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    WooHoo! Congratulations and nice find on the bolts. There's no stopping ya now!
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
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    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
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  29. #185
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Woo Hooo!!
    Nothing like the 1st ride in a new machine!

    Good catch on the pinion flange bolts. Easy fix!
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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  30. #186
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Minor Tweeks and Back to the Beginning

    Today was a day of minor tweaks and getting back to the beginning... drilling and clekos...

    Before really getting started, I found that after my short go cart drive that my DS camber was way off so I adjusted that to a much better look. Then rearranged the garage, cleaned things up a bit and put the car up on the jack stands. Removed the side pipes to get them out of the way and then started out by addressing the loose drive shaft to pinion flange. Removed all 4 bolts and cut off about 3/16" on each one. Cleaned them up on the wire wheel, and reinstalled, loctite and torqued appropriately. The flange is tight now...

    Continued in that area by pulling out the bottom bolts from the trans mount and raising the transmission tail up about 3/4" to fix the pinion angle. Things are much better now. I used a stack of thick washers and some new 1.5" grade 8 bolts to replace the .75" long bolts that came out. Torqued them down on the lock washers and call this job complete.



    Took a long brake and caught up with a very good friend for lunch and stopped by the DMV to pick up some forms to start the title/registration process. I'll cover this process for SC in a separate thread for others to have available. Looks like it is going to be very straight forward and smooth.

    Back to the build after the DMV I decided I need to start looking at getting ready to drop the body on. I had not completed any of the panel drilling for the driver's foot box top and side. So I went back to the beginning and broke out the 1/8" drill bit and clekos... Also installed some nutserts on the top access panel and then pulled them all back off as I still need to do some work in the DS foot box before they go on permanently.

    IMG_2482.jpg IMG_2481.jpg IMG_2480.JPG IMG_2478.JPG

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
    Build Thread Click Here

  31. #187
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Working on small items.... pt1

    Today was kind of an easy day. I worked on several small items, time consuming items that have to get done...

    1st, Installed the horns. Fairly simple job, followed the build manual almost, just a couple minor adjustments to that guide. First off, I did not mount them with the brackets together. I actually put a little separation between the horns so that they looked a little less cramped in the space. I used 1/4-20 stainless bolts, self locking nuts and washers. I also put red loctite between the 3/4" tube and the silver horn brackets to "glue" them in place and hopefully prevent them from moving. Oh, and in my garage, the horns are extremely loud.

    IMG_2484.JPG IMG_2485.JPG

    Next I pulled out all of the hood hinge parts and some other bare metal parts. Spent a couple hours massaging the sharp edges off of all of them, getting the plasma cut nibs off of them and rounding off all the sharp edges. I used my 4 1/2 side grinder with at 60 grit flap wheel. Then cleaned them all with paint thinner and hung them up. Sprayed them all with a couple coats of self-etching primer and then a couple coats of final paint. I'm using Dupli-color paint that is a near perfect match to the 20th Anniversary frame power coat gray color. Those parts will be put away and be ready for use when the time comes.

    IMG_2489.jpg IMG_2506.jpg

    I also installed the trans tunnel cover shifter fill plate. Nothing special here except as you can see there are two rivets missing... Those will actually be into the 3/4" cross tube underneath if I do in fact permanently attache that cover. I'm thinking of using industrial strength hook and loop (velcro) to attache it and if I do, then I'll just put the rivets in and flatten them with a few taps of a hammer.

    IMG_2511.jpg IMG_2510.jpg

    Next... I completed the door latch improvements in preparation to using them.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
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  32. #188
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Working on small items.... pt2 Door Latch Modification

    I followed a couple different leads on the modification/improvements on the door latches. While I've seen where some never had a problem with the latches and others that have had several problems, I wanted to do what I can now to prevent any problems in the future. So, this is what I did.

    One of the issues I've read about is that the small ball shaped handle that is only pressed into the latch bar will come off. I started by drilling a 5/8" hole into my 2x6 board that I use for just about all my drilling on my work bench. This was so that the knob would be able to be held in place as I used a center punch and drill on it. Center punched the end of the knob on the back of the lever and then using a #62 drill bit, drilled a hole about 1/2 inch deep. Then, tapped it with a 6-32 tap and cleaned out the oil I used during the taping with some carb cleaner. (want the loctite to work well) I installed a 1/2" 6-32 cap screw with washer, both stainless steel and I used blue loctite. Clean, simple and a little insurance keeping the latch knob in place.

    IMG_2490.jpg IMG_2493.jpg IMG_2495.JPG

    Next I opened up the latch by removing the two small screws that hold the chrome cover in place.

    next, I picked up a couple 5/16 stainless steel carriage bolts, and self locking nuts. Using my bench grinder, I flattened the top of the carriage bolt rounded head to basically make them flat to fit when installed. I used one of my extra self locking nuts to hold the bolt with vice grips as I did the grinding. It gets very hot so the self locking vinyl actually gets pretty soft and renders the nut unusable for anything except this type of use. The square in the door latch itself seems to have a very slight taper so it was necessary to use a file to "clean" out the square so that the shank of the carriage bolt could sit flat in place. This was very minor filing, not really opening the square hole, rather just cleaning it up.

    IMG_2497.jpg IMG_2498.jpg IMG_2496.jpg

    Next I found a couple spacers that were not used from my brake install that were just the right thickness and almost the perfect inside diameter to sit down over the latch. I used a step drill to open up the first half of the spacer so that it set perfectly over the top of the latch collar. Place a stainless washer over the top of that and tightened down the self locking nut.

    IMG_2500.jpg IMG_2501.jpg IMG_2502.jpg IMG_2504.jpg

    I use white lithium grease on all moving parts and then open and closed, in and out, over and over the latch to be sure that grease had a chance to get into all the moving parts. The latch feels very smooth and much easier than the original feel. Cleaned and polished the latches and put them back into the plastic bags and the box. Ready for use when the time is right.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
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  34. #189
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Body Is Down on Chassis - NOW What????

    Ok so today I rearranged the garage and dropped the body down on to the chassis. I have two bolts going into the rear QJ mount holes, not tight, just holding it up. Then it is pushed all the way forward and down over the front QJ mounts. The door sills are up flush under the chassis. I've put several folded up shop rags in strategic places to simulate the bulb seal holding it up slightly. The body is just at the door strikers as I see in Jeff K's instructions is a good starting point.

    So my initial observations of problems is that the the body is sitting on my tach and one of my switches. I'm thinking I will need to cut a bit off of the roll over the dash. Also the cutouts for the headers seem to be way off. I will say that I have two different sets of headers and both seem to be in the exact same position. When I had the side pipes on, they seemed to line up with the chassis very well so I'm kind of at a loss as to why the cut outs are so far off.

    The hood opening, both sides are sitting right down on the 3/4" tubes and seem to be centered on them.

    THIS IS WHERE I'VE DREADED going on this build. What do I need to do and where do I start?

    56365316499__EAB606A5-4AAF-4CDA-BE73-6A24A50D6980.JPG IMG_2537.JPG IMG_2535.jpg IMG_2553.JPG IMG_2550.JPGIMG_2548.jpg IMG_2545.JPG IMG_2544.jpg IMG_2555.jpg IMG_2549.jpg

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
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  36. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Ok so today I rearranged the garage and dropped the body down on to the chassis. I have two bolts going into the rear QJ mount holes, not tight, just holding it up. Then it is pushed all the way forward and down over the front QJ mounts. The door sills are up flush under the chassis. I've put several folded up shop rags in strategic places to simulate the bulb seal holding it up slightly. The body is just at the door strikers as I see in Jeff K's instructions is a good starting point.

    So my initial observations of problems is that the the body is sitting on my tach and one of my switches. I'm thinking I will need to cut a bit off of the roll over the dash. Also the cutouts for the headers seem to be way off. I will say that I have two different sets of headers and both seem to be in the exact same position. When I had the side pipes on, they seemed to line up with the chassis very well so I'm kind of at a loss as to why the cut outs are so far off.

    The hood opening, both sides are sitting right down on the 3/4" tubes and seem to be centered on them.

    THIS IS WHERE I'VE DREADED going on this build. What do I need to do and where do I start?

    56365316499__EAB606A5-4AAF-4CDA-BE73-6A24A50D6980.JPG IMG_2537.JPG IMG_2535.jpg IMG_2553.JPG IMG_2550.JPGIMG_2548.jpg IMG_2545.JPG IMG_2544.jpg IMG_2555.jpg IMG_2549.jpg
    Carl,

    Have you tried to mount the side pipes yet? There is quite an optical illusion created by looking at the header through the openings. If the body is sitting right on the front 3/4" rails, it will get some lift once the weather strip is on, but only a small amount. The gauge and switch issue is what I was talking about when I thought the dash looked a little high. You obviously can't move the gauge, but you are on the right track by trimming the cowl rolled edge back a bit. I trimmed mine about 1/2", but haven't put the body back on again to see how that fits.

    Dave
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  37. #191
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    Your side pipes openings don't look bad at all. Lots of factors to keep in mind: The side pipes don't come straight out from the headers. The actual opening needed is behind and down from what you can see looking directly into the opening. The optical illusion already mentioned. The openings are cut purposely small, and are meant to be trimmed to your build. The openings are also hand cut and often aren't very symmetrical. Yours are quite different. I'm pretty confident those will work out OK. But don't do anything to fit them until (1) body mounting is further along (e.g. bulb seal and you're positive it's in the final position, (2) Doors fitted. It's quite common to need to pull the sides in/out to get the best door fit. (3) Front splash guards installed. Those will pull the corners of the wheel opening in and affect the cutout to some degree. Then see where you're at. Trim a little at a time and I'll bet the side pipes fit OK.

    Regarding the body fit, I wouldn't trim too much on that front body roll until you try again with the bulb seal in place. Could make a difference, especially over the firewall. If the body is all the way down on the hood surround tubes, it's too low. It's usually 1/2-inch or so above. The foam filler provided in the kit will fill the opening to make it look better. But won't hold the body up. The front of the body is mainly held by the firewall and then the front quick jack bolts. The radiator surround provides some support as well.
    Last edited by edwardb; 11-11-2018 at 08:52 PM.
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  39. #192
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Your side pipes openings don't look bad at all. Lots of factors to keep in mind: The side pipes don't come straight out from the headers. The actual opening needed is behind and down from what you can see looking directly into the opening. The optical illusion already mentioned. The openings are cut purposely small, and are meant to be trimmed to your build. The openings are also hand cut and often aren't very symmetrical. Yours are quite different. I'm pretty confident those will work out OK. But don't do anything to fit them until (1) body mounting is further along (e.g. bulb seal and your positive it's in the final position, (2) Doors fitted. It's quite common to need to pull the sides in/out to get the best door fit. (3) Front splash guards installed. Those will pull the corners of the wheel opening in and affect the cutout to some degree. Then see where you're at. Trim a little at a time and I'll bet the side pipes fit OK.

    Regarding the body fit, I wouldn't trim too much on that front body roll until you try again with the bulb seal in place. Could make a difference, especially over the firewall. It the body is all the way down on the hood surround tubes, it's too low. It's usually 1/2-inch or so above. The foam filler provided in the kit will fill the opening to make it look better. But won't hold the body up. The front of the body is mainly held by the firewall and then the front quick jack bolts. The radiator surround provides some support as well.
    As always, Thank You ALL for your input and Dave and Paul this all makes a lot of sense. I just went out to the garage to give it a look before I call it a night. Took a few hours off to watch the NASCAR race and get my mind off the build.

    Tomorrow I will most likely lift the body back up and install the bulb seal and then set it back down and attach the front QJ bolts and turn light brackets. Then I'll start to get a better idea as to what needs to happen.

    One thing for sure is that I will need to relocate my turn signal switch. I'll most likely just move it down to where I have my hazard switch and move my hazard switch down under the dash in that same general area. I did not realize that the body and the door was going to encroach into that area so far. My E-Power Steering adjustment knob will be perfect there, out of the way, but I can reach it if needed during a drive.

    IMG_2535.jpg First Fitting of Body.jpg

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
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  40. #193
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Body Fitment Questions

    Tonight I started back with a fresh perspective and I hope understanding of the body fitment. I removed the body and installed the foam rubber seal and bulb seal. I would like to be sure that I have done this correctly.

    1st the build manual states to put the self stick foam rubber seal on the 3/4" tubes on either side of the hood opening. I did this from the back of the dash all the way down to the front where it starts the downward angle next to the radiator. I actually went a couple inches past that sharp downward turn. The manual also states to put it across the top of the trunk hoop... simple enough!

    2nd it states to put the bulb seal across the top of the fire wall and the trunk sides and rear floor. Ok, firewall check; Trunk Side walls from the back of the seat back to the very bottom of the wall at the bottom of the trunk area near the quick jack mounts, check;

    Here is where I have a question... It also goes on to and states "The push on weather strip goes on top of the trunk walls and rear floor." What I think I did incorrectly is I put bulb seal across the back wall of the drivers compartment, just behind the seats all the way across. But I'm not sure if that is right. Also does the bulb seal go across the very back behind the fuel tank on the small ledge by the QJ mounts?

    Here are some photos of what I've done.
    IMG_0104v1.jpg IMG_2562.jpg IMG_2561.jpg IMG_2564.jpg IMG_2565.jpg IMG_2560.jpg IMG_2563.jpg

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
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  41. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Tonight I started back with a fresh perspective and I hope understanding of the body fitment. I removed the body and installed the foam rubber seal and bulb seal. I would like to be sure that I have done this correctly.

    1st the build manual states to put the self stick foam rubber seal on the 3/4" tubes on either side of the hood opening. I did this from the back of the dash all the way down to the front where it starts the downward angle next to the radiator. I actually went a couple inches past that sharp downward turn. The manual also states to put it across the top of the trunk hoop... simple enough!

    2nd it states to put the bulb seal across the top of the fire wall and the trunk sides and rear floor. Ok, firewall check; Trunk Side walls from the back of the seat back to the very bottom of the wall at the bottom of the trunk area near the quick jack mounts, check;

    Here is where I have a question... It also goes on to and states "The push on weather strip goes on top of the trunk walls and rear floor." What I think I did incorrectly is I put bulb seal across the back wall of the drivers compartment, just behind the seats all the way across. But I'm not sure if that is right. Also does the bulb seal go across the very back behind the fuel tank on the small ledge by the QJ mounts?

    Here are some photos of what I've done.
    IMG_0104v1.jpg IMG_2562.jpg IMG_2561.jpg IMG_2564.jpg IMG_2565.jpg IMG_2560.jpg IMG_2563.jpg
    Carl,

    No bulb seal on the rear cockpit wall between the trunk side walls, and yes along the bottom edge of the trunk floor. Everything else is correct.

    Dave
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  42. #195
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Carl,

    No bulb seal on the rear cockpit wall between the trunk side walls, and yes along the bottom edge of the trunk floor. Everything else is correct.

    Dave
    Awesome, Thanks Dave!!!
    So If I take it off of the rear cockpit wall, what seals the weather from the rear tires into the cockpit over your outer shoulder??

    IMG_2561v1.jpg
    Last edited by BadAsp427; 11-12-2018 at 08:31 PM.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
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  43. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Awesome, Thanks Dave!!!
    So If I take it off of the rear cockpit wall, what seals the weather from the rear tires into the cockpit over your outer shoulder??

    IMG_2561v1.jpg
    Keep the bulb seal on from the trunk walls outward down to the door latch. You are sealing only what is exposed to the elements. You can see the placement of the seal in Paul's build thread on post #378:

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post249263

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 11-12-2018 at 10:37 PM.
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  44. #197


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    Carl,
    Like this:



    Jeff

  45. #198
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Hood Installed

    Today I completed a few tasks, Lowered my dash a small amount to allow the body to sit correctly, mounted the front and rear quick jacks and have the body in pretty much what I think will be it's correct fitment. So from there, I installed my hood, everything seemed to go well, had to of course trim around the edges of it to get it to sit in place. I limited my trimming however to leave something for my painter to do. Here are some photos of the hood install. I have the locking latches installed as well as the pneumatic lifts. The hood scoop is NOT installed, just sitting on there for the look.

    IMG_2599.jpg IMG_2601.jpg IMG_2602.jpg IMG_2603.jpg IMG_2606.jpg

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
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  46. #199
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Today I completed a few tasks, Lowered my dash a small amount to allow the body to sit correctly, mounted the front and rear quick jacks and have the body in pretty much what I think will be it's correct fitment. So from there, I installed my hood, everything seemed to go well, had to of course trim around the edges of it to get it to sit in place. I limited my trimming however to leave something for my painter to do. Here are some photos of the hood install. I have the locking latches installed as well as the pneumatic lifts. The hood scoop is NOT installed, just sitting on there for the look.

    IMG_2599.jpg IMG_2601.jpg IMG_2602.jpg IMG_2603.jpg IMG_2606.jpg
    Looking good man! Who are you getting to paint it. Someone local?
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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  47. #200
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Looking good man! Who are you getting to paint it. Someone local?
    The plan is for Jeff Kliener to do his awesome magic on it.... some time late next summer/fall That's why I'm getting it together so I can have some fun in jell coat.... :-)

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
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