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Thread: Front upper control arm fit issue

  1. #1
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    Front upper control arm fit issue

    Has anyone had a front upper control arm fit problem? My upper passenger side arm is at least 1/4 inch off from being able to fit within the mounting tabs on the frame. In other words if you center either the front or rear pivot point, then the other pivot will not align by at least 1/4 inch. Both sides of the frame appear equal in spacing, so the passenger arm looks like the problem. The driver side fits ok. What was your solution? It seems bending the frame tabs or trying to ram the arm could be a big mess on a fresh powder coat.

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    Check with FFR for spacing.

  3. #3
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Mine was tight and I had to open the tabs a bit but nothing like a 1/4 inch.

    Tim
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    Check with FFR for spacing.
    Take a few pictures of the problem with the arm in place. They need to clearly show the issue. Then send the pictures to FFR in an E-mail. Include the measurements of the control arm spacing so they have that to work with. more than likely, you got a bad part. here's hoping its the arm and not the frame mounts. That would be a major hassle to fix unless you are a great welder. Good luck.

  5. #5
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Indigo808 View Post
    Has anyone had a front upper control arm fit problem? My upper passenger side arm is at least 1/4 inch off from being able to fit within the mounting tabs on the frame. In other words if you center either the front or rear pivot point, then the other pivot will not align by at least 1/4 inch. Both sides of the frame appear equal in spacing, so the passenger arm looks like the problem. The driver side fits ok. What was your solution? It seems bending the frame tabs or trying to ram the arm could be a big mess on a fresh powder coat.

    Thanks in advance
    Just an FYI, mine was the same until I sent a picture to FFR and they realized they sent me Cobra arms instead of the arms for the 33, as suggested send FFR pictures with a measuring tape of the arm and also in place with the arm, they will solve it!

  6. #6
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    Thanks everyone. It is interesting idea about an arm from a Cobra. I think the arm may have gotten too hot in the welding. I did send some picts to FF5. They commented that it was not uncommon and suggested the big wrench method mentioned below. I took a two fold approach.

    1. The actual issue was the distance between mounts on the upper passenger side front arm. I have 2 hydraulic bottle jacks. I selected the small one and made a wood jig to place the jack between the arm mounts. Then I put pressure between the mounts. (Caution - do not use too much pressure) This gained about .0625.
    2. I made a trip to HR and purchased a big adjustable wrench. I taped up the jaws of the wrench and clamped it onto the frame mounting tabs. This leverage allowed me to bend the tabs slightly .094 to make up the difference.
    Arm is installed and moves properly.

  7. #7
    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    There's another solution someone suggested on this forum (don't remember who) but it's basically a section of all-thread some washers and a couple nuts. Turn the nuts to spread the tabs just past where you need (because it will spring back a little) and done!

    spreader.jpeg
    (credit to whomever I "stole" this pic from...)
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

  8. #8

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    I have needed to "adjust" the attachment points on both the front and rear. Very large adjustable wrench has worked well with little or no marks on the tabs. (MK4)
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  9. #9
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxMike64 View Post
    There's another solution someone suggested on this forum (don't remember who) but it's basically a section of all-thread some washers and a couple nuts. Turn the nuts to spread the tabs just past where you need (because it will spring back a little) and done!

    spreader.jpeg
    (credit to whomever I "stole" this pic from...)
    We used this as well and it works great, takes no time!

  10. #10
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    To one degree or another it's common with the majority of 33 kits out there. Like other areas , the welding process just isn't done correctly. It needs to be TOTALLY welded (as much as possible ) in a jig and then stressed relieved. I get one or two calls a week on various issue with Fitment and it's always the same issues. This being one of them. How about just making the parts so they fit ? An experienced builder will get it to fit but most just force it into place. You now have binding in the suspension and it just won't function as well as it should. That said, FFR is in the business of selling kits and not so much in correcting manufacturing issues.

  11. #11

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    Well He##, I have 2 cents on my 33' also. My front arms were back ordered, have just received them but NOW out to powder coat. But I have done the rear axle, 4 link. All tabs on frame and or arms were really tight To the point that I thought something was wrong. BUT, the big cresent wrench turned it into a non issue. Just took a little tweak. Front will be next week when arms come back. We'll see......

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