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Thread: Rear Wiring Harness Advice

  1. #1
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Rear Wiring Harness Advice

    I'm getting ready to put in the rear wiring harness. I know it is pretty straight forward to just follow the build manual but I was wondering if anybody had any simple do's or don't that I may not have read in other build threads. I am planning to put in back up lights, extra brake lights on the rollbars, and a trunk light, so any help with this would be great. For me it seems the wiring is the most intimidating part of the build so any advice, the simpler the better, is greatly appreciated!

    Mark
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  2. #2
    Senior Member RJD's Avatar
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    My EFI ECU had it's own relay and fuse and controlled the fuel pump, so I had to incorporate that wiring in with the rear harness to the fuel tank. Just something to consider.
    MKIV complete kit w/powder coating and cut outs, serial #9189 delivered 10/10/17, first start - 10/5/18, legal - 10/08/20. Blueprint 306 w/Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, power steering, Breeze fan shroud, trunk cubby, & engine compartment battery kit, CNC brake reservoirs, RT turn signal & gas pedal, mechanical throttle linkage, METCO safety loop, GASN side pipes, drop trunk, dual chrome roll bars, vintage gauges, glove box, custom center console, cup holders, and speakers.

  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Really not too much to say. The stock RF rear harness is OK as is. Typical to route it down the top inside corner of the transmission tunnel, underneath the trunk floor, and then route from there to the various lights, fuel tank connections, etc. If you're installing a dropped trunk box mod, you'll have to route it over a bit once in that area, but there's enough length to do it. IMO, the fuel pump and sender harness legs are way too long. I shorten them. But if you're not comfortable doing that, leave them as is. No big deal. For the added wires, kind of your choice on what you want to do. If you're comfortable with it, easy enough to unwrap all the electrical tape, remove the convolute, add what you need, and then wrap it back up again. Or you could run them in a separate smaller harness. The added brake light can be tapped from the existing brake wire. You'll need to add wires for the backup lights, including a pigtail connection to the transmission, and trunk light. Then decide where to get the source voltage from under the dash. For the backup lights, any ignition circuit could be used. For the trunk light, could be on the courtesy light circuit so when you twist the headlight switch the trunk light goes on. Or you could hook it to a battery circuit (always on) and have a switch on the trunk lid so it goes on when opened. I've done both and do prefer the latter.
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  4. #4
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul, thats exactly what I needed to hear.
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  5. #5
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJD View Post
    My EFI ECU had it's own relay and fuse and controlled the fuel pump, so I had to incorporate that wiring in with the rear harness to the fuel tank. Just something to consider.
    Thanks, I have EFI also so I'll check on that.
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

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