ball joints

[Al_C]

This is killing me - yet another crisis of confidence. Thank God for this forum! I'm trying to keep everything in perspective, but progress is pretty darn slow... (time available isn't helping!)

OK - check out the photos. So I get the ball joint threaded into the UCA. Nice and smooth. Easy to turn by hand, actually. It would appear that the threads do not go all the way to the "cap" on the ball joint. The question is - how far do I need to thread this on? The manual doesn't seem to indicate one way or the other. This is one thing I didn't photograph at build school! Does it need to bottom out on the cap of the ball joint, or do I have this screwed on far enough? ( I used blue thread locker on it already...)

ball1.jpgball2.jpg

[Hotyacht]

Hmmmm. Well the manual shows the ball joint in a bench vice and a dude swinging on the UCA. It says "Tighten the ball joint using the arm for leverage with a Vice holding the ball joint"
I certainly read tighten as ......well, tighten. as in screwed right in hard using reasonable force. So mine are screwed right in tight, which is not what you appear to have done.
Anybody else?

[BEAR-AvHistory]

The FFR supplied upper ball joints are a bit spotty as to the way the fit & thread in. They should go in fully to the shoulder. Some of us canned them & installed MOOG K772 instead. Perfect fit.

[edwardb]

They need to go all the way down to the shoulder. Did you do the vise approach like FFR described? There's actually a specific ball joint socket made for those. Thought about that. But mine wouldn't thread on at all. Couldn't get the Moog's to work either. Ended up with Howe Racing ball joints. Very nice but a little pricier.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Al,
They screw all the way in and seat on the shoulder. At this point you may need some heat to break the Locktite so that you can get them loose, clean up the residue and apply fresh before installing them fully.

Jeff

[ThickCobra]

As I recall from the school, we were informed that more often than not the supplied ball joints present a challenge. They did mention that the vice install method is the simplest way to install the ball joints, but, they often require taking a steel brush to the threads. And, yes, there is a Chrysler ball joint install tool you may find at a local rent-a-tool if you are so inclined. As I mentioned in a previous post, I was fortunate enough to have them seat smoothly and tight. But, it's not the norm.

I assume that we are all receiving the Mev Tech MK772 ball joints - made in china.

[CraigS]

When I install BJs I lube the threads w/ bearing grease. Makes them easier to thread in fully. Then I put a short tack weld to keep them there. I don't know what the setup time is for blue Loctite but maybe it is hardening before you get it threaded fully.

[Al_C]

Thanks for all the input! I used the socket on the first attempt - I think it's time for the vise. So.... step one - Undo current set up (loosen thread locker and take it out). Step two - reassemble and bottom it out. It still bothers me that the thread doesn't cover the entire length, but I'd rather exhaust attempts with these before I buy others...

[PaulW]

As others have said the FFR supplied parts are spotty at best. One of mine screwed right in but the other went only about 2/3 od the way on. I happened to have a pair of good MOOG ball joints and used them instead. They screwed right in to the collar easy as pie. The thread definition on the FFR parts is pretty bad whereas the Moogs have clean cut threads.

[edwardb]

The thread definition on the FFR parts is pretty bad whereas the Moogs have clean cut threads.

Interesting. I must have the worst luck. I agree the thread definition on the Mevotech's I received from FFR was very poor. They would just barely start threading in and then lock up hard. There was no way I was going to clamp them in a vise and try to force them in. I bought Moog's from two different places (Amazon and Jegs) and they looked almost exactly the same. Went in a few turns but no more.

[Hotyacht]

And yet I had absolutely no issues with the FFR supplied items - they threaded straight in by hand no problem at all. Lucky I guess?

[Gumball]

I agree with the advice to use the vise method and get them tightened all the way down. Then, either give them a tack weld or a bit of JB Weld (on the shoulder) to hold them - in addition to LockTite.

[Bob Cowan]

That portion of the arm is available in a couple of thread pitches. Make sure yours match the threads on the ball joints.

Tack welding is a good idea. I found this after only a few hundred miles. And, yes, there was lock-tite red on the threads.

[Norm B]

I forgot I had purchased a set of Moog ball joints with a bunch of other parts from Summit Racing. The supplied ball joints from FFR installed without issue in my control arms, but I was helping someone else with his build and we couldn't get the supplied ones to work. He used my left over Moog ones and they went in without a problem. Seems to be hit and miss.

Good Luck
Norm

[BEAR-AvHistory]

That portion of the arm is available in a couple of thread pitches. Make sure yours match the threads on the ball joints.

Tack welding is a good idea. I found this after only a few hundred miles. And, yes, there was lock-tite red on the threads.

Great example of why you need to get the car up off the ground on a regular basis so you can check all the bolts & fittings. Have yellow paint stick markings on all of them for a quick visual check.

[AC Bill]

Al, can't help but notice your ball joint boots are blue, vs the usual black rubber ones they usually come with. Are they replacements, and do they actually stay on?
The black boots were terrible to fit on the ball joints. Once they popped off, bloody impossible to get back on, least when the car is finished. Some builders have switched to aftermarket silicone boots.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Have blue ones. Think they came with the MOOG parts. They are still in place @ 1056 miles.

[Jdav]

That portion of the arm is available in a couple of thread pitches. Make sure yours match the threads on the ball joints.

Tack welding is a good idea. I found this after only a few hundred miles. And, yes, there was lock-tite red on the threads.

So one of my ball joints looks like this.

#1: How does this happen?
#2: how do I fix it?
#3: how do i prevent it from happening again?

[KauaiMK4]

I had the same problem. When you get them removed, try putting them in the freezer for a few hours and then try to reinstall. The small amount of contraction in the ball joint threads allowed them to screw in all the way.

[Jdav]

I had the same problem. When you get them removed, try putting them in the freezer for a few hours and then try to reinstall. The small amount of contraction in the ball joint threads allowed them to screw in all the way.

When I initially installed them, they were seated all the way. After a few hundred miles, it looks like this

[KauaiMK4]

Apologies Jdav…………….I was responding to the initial problem Al was having with getting them initially threaded on.

[Bob Cowan]

So one of my ball joints looks like this.

#1: How does this happen?
#2: how do I fix it?
#3: how do i prevent it from happening again?

Tack weld it in place. Just a small one. If can easily be cut through if needed.

Some people have drilled a hole and placed drift pin. But I'm not sure how you would get that out if needed.

[broku518]

Hi AL,
Yes, all the way. I used wise to do that, couldn't get a big enough wrench. Hope you are good now.

[Jdav]

So one of my ball joints looks like this.

#1: How does this happen?
#2: how do I fix it?
#3: how do i prevent it from happening again?

I got a loaner ball joint socket from my local auto parts store and it screwed back in pretty easily. I added some Lockridge, so hopefully it won’t happen again, but something I’ll check regularly

[Boydster]

[snip] Some people have drilled a hole and placed drift pin. But I'm not sure how you would get that out if needed.

Example: drill the hole 1/4" deep, install a pin thats 3/8" or 1/2" long. Easy to pry out with a pair of side cutters... used gently.

[Al_C]

Wow - a three year-old thread got revived! I looked at this and said "I started this???" I'm glad others are benefiting from the collective wisdom on ball joints. Mine are tightened down with thread locker - we'll see how they do in the coming months.