Power Distribution Blocks

[EZ$]

OK, so I know absolutely squat about electronics and wiring. Truthfully, I'm just wingin' it at this point. But I need to get the wiring sorted out so I can get to a point I can drop the motor in.
I'm using a compact starter that has the solenoid built in, and the wiring harness will not reach that far down, so is this something I should install on the firewall, where a solenoid would normally be located? If so, what type of configuration, how many poles, how should the wiring be configured? If I want to power items that are not wired into the harness, would I pull power from this location?
Man, even I didn't realize how many questions I had! If anyone can help to educate me on this it would be a huge help. I continue to dread the wiring, not because I mind doing it, but because I understand so little about it. Thanks in advance.

Rick

[Papa]

Rick,

If you look at my post in my build thread here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post306293

You will see what I did with my power leads via a distribution block or bus bar.

Dave

[EZ$]

Dave,
So your positive battery cable connects to the PDB, and connects from there to the starter, along with the solenoid wire from the harness, and any other power leads that you might need for other items?

Rick

[Papa]

Yes, except that I ran from the battery direct to the starter, and added another 4 gauge wire from the starter up to the block. All other power leads in the harness come off the block.

[EZ$]

Dave,
Thanks for the clarification. I knew I could get things backwards in my mind! Thanks for all the help. I actually saw that PDB on ebay, so I guess it's time to go shopping.

Rick

[EZ$]

Dave,
I also meant to ask you about the replacement horn button that you used. Did it require the same size hole as the FFR plastic button? I'd like to replace mine, but don't want to have to resize the hole.
Thanks.

Rick

[CraigS]

There is kind of an advantage to running the batt cable right to the starter, I guess. But, I don't think it's that big of a deal. If your battery is in the rear of the car, I would mount the PDB somewhere in the area of the top of the passenger foot box/firewall and run the battery cable to that and another cable to the starter. If your battery is in front as in the Breeze mount, I'd run the batt cable right to the starter and then another cable up to the PDB. I really like the PDB w/ a large lug or two and then some smaller ones. You can get eye connectors for smaller wire but w/ a big eye so it can go on the large lug w/ the battery cables. But smaller lugs w/ appropriate eye connectors are a lot more professional. Another variation of PDB that I really like are ones w/ fuses for the small outputs. One use for a PDB on an FFR is to supply power to some extra circuits, so it's nice to have it fused. Sorry, I didn't find one to illustrate.

[EZ$]

Craig,
I was figuring that to run to the starter first eliminates a bit of the wire run to the starter, helping with any hot start issues. I think it should only be a run of about four feet from the FFMetal battery box, so I was thinking a slightly thicker gauge than the FFR provided cable, and then use the FFR cable for the jumper up to the PDB. I believe that the box that Dave used on his build has four large lugs, but also has three or four smaller ones as well. I'm still trying to get it straight in my mind what would regularly get wired into a PDB in this type of situation, and then was thinking of adding a lead to a secondary fuse panel to run those items not included in the original harness. Don't know if I'm thinking about this correctly or not.

Rick

[Papa]

Dave,
I also meant to ask you about the replacement horn button that you used. Did it require the same size hole as the FFR plastic button? I'd like to replace mine, but don't want to have to resize the hole.
Thanks.

Rick

Rick,

I responded to your PM as well, but for others that may want to replace the FFR plastic horn button, this one is a perfect size match.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave

[Derald Rice]

I will be rewiring the car this winter, and I have the same bus bar that dave has linked to.

Also have two smaller versions of the same bar, and from the same Mfgr, to use as a switched B+ bar and as a ground bar.

http://www.amazon.com/BUSBARS-12-Poi...words=bus+bars

[EZ$]

Thanks Dave! That button is like a 1000% improvement in the look of the FFR button.
Derald, thanks for the additional info on these bars. I got one ordered this afternoon, so hopefully I can progress on this wiring journey.

Rick

[CraigS]

Rick that all sounds good to me. Bumping up to the next size batt cable sure won't hurt. Don't forget to use the same size for the batt ground cable. What extra might be needed is obviously personal choice. Seat heaters and fog/ driving lights are two that come quickly to mind. The main idea of a PDB is to keep extra wires off the starter solenoid lug. Problem is that it is way out of the way and has limited room around it. Extra wires end up in a flower pedal pattern and look like crap. Also those wires are not fused in any way until they are run to some type of fuse box or inline fuse holder so your idea of an extra fuse box is a good one. Just be sure to insulate the feed wire really well. I use two layers of cable loom
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Flame-Ret...&wl13=&veh=sem
Many years ago I was in a shop when a tech was loosening the batt cable nut on a starter and the other end the wrench touched ground. He should have taken the cable off the battery first but didn't. A 1/2 inch wrench getting red hot is a really scary thing.

[EZ$]

Craig,
Thanks for the response. The PDB that I'll be using is the same one that Dave used on his build, (mentioned in a post above. It is lineal, not round, so no worries about the flower pedal pattern. I'll still make sure to insulate everything to the point of overkill!
In regard to your note about the tech, when I first went to work with my FIL, I was servicing my work truck, and needed to replace the battery. In the process of removing the battery cable I dropped the wrench, and it just happened to be the exact length between the two poles of the battery. I can't tell you how difficult it was to knock it out from where it had wedged itself as it was welding itself in place. Also couldn't believe how hot it got!

Rick

[Papa]

Two things you learn as an electrical engineer:

1. It's not the volts that kill you, it's the amps!
2. Never let the smoke out of the box!

Dave