-
Steering shaft and Steering wheel Hub question
Hello Guys,
I am trying to install the steering wheel hub onto the steering shaft.
I can only get it started, then it won't go any further.
I assume the shaft should be flush with the inside pocket of the steering wheel hub when installed all the way.
I know the two flats will stop when they hit their respective area in the hub.
Any suggestions? Light taps on shaft to get a press fit....? or should this just slide in?IMG_6240.JPGIMG_6241.JPGIMG_6242.JPG
Martin
-
Mine was like that until I examined it closely and notice some imperfections that I filed down lightly. A touch of grease and it went on smoothly. You will likely put it on and remove it several times so don’t force it on.
MKIV #8740, Canadian base kit, Picked up Dec. 2015, ‘98 Cobra 4.6 l DOHC, T45 transmission, old style IRS, Art Cuesta dieted harness/Ron Francis chassis harness, go-cart July 2018.
-
Senior Member
Take a Sharpie and "color" the end of the steering shaft & the hole in the wheel hub. Gently try and fit the two. The interference will rub off the marker and show where a bit of filing/deburring will be needed.
(It should be a snug, but no-tools slip fit.)
John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs
1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Senior Member
Agree with the other comments. Make sure the end of the shaft and the mating area in the hub are all clean and free of burrs, etc. But once done, it's still a tight interference fit in my experience. Because of what it is, that's a good thing IMO. You should be able to get it started enough to then use the bolt and washer to draw it in. Should go relatively easily that way. May/may not need a gear puller to get back off.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
-
I would suggest not bolting it on at this stage. I mounted my steering wheel to it and just slid it on the shaft enough to be able to use the steering, for the rest of the build process. I had it on and off a hundred times. I think bolting the hub to the shaft was almost the last bolt I put on the car.
Pretty sure mine will need a puller to get off
-
I put some silver anti seize on the shaft before a trial fit, glad I did.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
-
Not a waxer
What Murd said. Don't clamp it down tight until the dash is on to stay.
Jeff
-
Senior Member
My hub fit VERY tightly to the shaft; it’s not coming off without a puller. I kept the upper shaft/hub/wheel together as an assembly. When I needed to take the wheel off I pulled the upper shaft out of the lower (and out of the upper steering bearing too). When the dash was on for good I installed the Belleville washers & set screws.
When you tighten the hub for good, make sure the bolt doesn’t bottom out before coming tight. It’s not uncommon to put a second washer under the bolt to get it secured properly.
John
Last edited by phileas_fogg; 09-02-2018 at 12:54 PM.
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313