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Thread: Fiberglass Trans Tunnel

  1. #1
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Fiberglass Trans Tunnel

    How are most of you attaching the fiberglass trans tunnel to the chassis? I assume you want to be able to remove this if the need arises, so are you using screws and rivnuts and if so are you installing them in the fiberglass and then placing screws in from the bottom or just putting the rivnuts into the top surfaces of the chassis tubing?

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    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  2. #2
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    I'll be using 10x32 screws and rivnuts in the chassis as well as insulation on the inside of tunnel.

  3. #3
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    I have screws from the front at firewall into rivnuts and then using 1/8” rivets along each side to floor. The top is currently held on with rivets, but the final form will probably be glasses on. Then, it’ll be insulated on top upom final assembly.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  4. #4
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    I used stainless button head bolts at the firewall and rivets to the floor. After you install sound deadener, insulation and carpet it will be a bear to remove in my opinion.
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  5. #5
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the input!
    Last edited by JOP33; 09-04-2018 at 04:33 PM.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  6. #6
    Senior Member TomH33's Avatar
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    My tunnel was the 2 piece so I glassed it back to one piece. I have no wires going through the tunnel so I made it removable. I used #10 button top sheetmetal screws into the top frame, firewall and used # 10-32 button head allens with lock nuts for the bottom of the tunnel. I should be able to remove the tunnel in about 1/2 hour.

    TomH33

  7. #7
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    I've had my engine / trans in and out at least half-dozen times and it's so much easier when the doghouse is removed. And if you have an auto trans remember there are serviceable items on the trans that will be hard to access if that cover is not removable.

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