Miller Customs

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  5
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: Engine stalling

  1. #1
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Gorham, ME
    Posts
    905
    Post Thanks / Like

    Engine stalling

    Well as usual the closer you get, there will be another curve ball!!

    Last week I installed all the gauges and wanted to take the car out on my road in the dark, so I could check if all the gauges worked and if my lights were set properly. The car started up but wouldn’t idle unless I kept my foot on the gas.
    It would stall, and would turn over but I could not start it again.
    Took out the plugs and they were black. Cleaned them all up and tried again.
    Same ritual, and it took me another try to get it running long enough to get it back in the garage. Luckily it was nice day.
    I thought that since the car has not driven much I should put in new spark plugs.
    Did that yesterday, and the same ritual repeated itself. Then I got a bright moment and thought that the oxygen sensor in the exhaust is probably fauled too. Cleaned it and repeat behavior.
    Took all the plugs out again and cleaned them ( they were black again), gapped them to 0.055, and cleaned the oxygen sensor.
    Same happened again!! So now I’m ready to cry, uhm wait..... uhm very frustrated I mean.
    I have a fast EZ EFI system. Did the Calibration and increased idle to 1,100 rpm but that didn’t do the trick either.
    Fuel pressure is 40PSI on the gauge.
    Exhaust is dark, and when it failes to restart smoke comes out of the valve cover vent.
    What am I missing?

    Thanks,

    John
    Last edited by John Dol; 09-03-2018 at 11:22 AM.
    Making progress on the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  2. #2
    Member Geoff H's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi John. I run the same system. Couple of questions:
    Has it run without issue before? Any error codes come up? What ignition system are you running? What is your battery voltage?
    Thanks

    Geoff
    Last edited by Geoff H; 09-03-2018 at 12:00 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Gorham, ME
    Posts
    905
    Post Thanks / Like
    A20528F1-CEA1-46BF-8459-AB5087D6DE2B.jpegGeoff,

    Yes it used to run without stalling. Mind you my car is not on the road so it has been drive way and short runs on our road.
    No error codes
    14V
    MSD ignition

    John
    Last edited by John Dol; 09-03-2018 at 12:56 PM.
    Making progress on the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  4. #4
    Member Geoff H's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like
    The reason I ask is that my system has been really finicky with battery voltage - even if its drained a bit the injectors won't prime properly. I have it on a battery tender if sitting for too long.
    For ignition it sounds like I am running the same or similar as you. I was working with Gordon Levy doing some virtual tuning and he recommended a .040 plug gap. The stock mustang 5.0L was about .050 give or take, but that was too much for my MSD set up. Seemed to run too rich, and now it runs very good at the .040.

    Any chance of interference between the FAST wiring harness and the new gauge wiring?

    If it doesn't correct it may be worthwhile resetting the tune and starting again.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Heart of Dixie, Alabama
    Posts
    535
    Post Thanks / Like
    It sounds like your system is flooding. This will not fix it, but most FI systems will quit pumping fuel with the pedal at WOT. If you get it running, it might help you diagnose the problem.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  6. #6
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Gorham, ME
    Posts
    905
    Post Thanks / Like
    EZ.jpg

    SE box is not checked. Not sure what that means.

    John
    Making progress on the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  7. #7
    Member Geoff H's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like
    SE is System Error. If not checked it is not detecting any error. The computer is reading that the sensors are working within their parameters. It may be worthwhile to reset the system with a new tune. Cheap place to start.
    Last edited by Geoff H; 09-04-2018 at 09:43 PM.

  8. Thanks John Dol thanked for this post
  9. #8
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Gorham, ME
    Posts
    905
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Geoff,

    Once I'm home this weekend I'll try that.

    John
    Making progress on the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  10. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    48
    Post Thanks / Like
    John

    Do a simple test of O2 sensor before going to far in diagnostics. Read the Fast Dash AFR..

    Butane Test:
    Turn on the power to the system, and let the oxygen sensors heat up for
    approximately 2 minutes. Then using a Bic butane lighter, force butane into the tip of the sensor
    BUT do not light. When the sensor feels the butane it should go from a reading of 18-20 AFR (free air) down to
    a reading of 10-12 AFR.
    If the sensor changes and drops down, then the sensor is working correctly.

    If this does not happen, buy a new O2 sensor..

  11. Thanks John Dol thanked for this post
  12. #10
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Gorham, ME
    Posts
    905
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Don.
    I have heard that the Fast system is sensitive to interference. I wonder if my back up camera which I recently plugged in has something to do with this. Going to try that, and your method this weekend!!

    John
    Making progress on the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  13. #11
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Gorham, ME
    Posts
    905
    Post Thanks / Like
    Cleaned plugs and sensor again. Unplugged the rear view system. Re programmed the handheld. Gapped the plugs to 0.04.
    Also tried the butane test but did not get a reading either way.
    I watched a you tube video on the install, and it shows the fuel in and return reversed from how mine is hooked up.
    Not sure if that matters but probably should change that around.
    Weird though because the engine used to run fine.
    Still no further ahead, and lost count of how many times I’ve cleaned my spark plugs.
    Making progress on the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  14. #12
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Gorham, ME
    Posts
    905
    Post Thanks / Like
    Put the charger on the battery this morning, and worked on the banana vents in the mean time.
    I had printed out the Fast EZ manual yesterday, and read through a few options. It spoke to adjusting the set screw to match the actual RPM to the programmed RPM.
    Engine started right up but wanted to stall as usual. Put a block on the accelerator to keep it going and started adjusting the set screw. Engine ran nice at 1,500 RPM so I took the block off. Engine kept running so I was happy.
    Programmed RPM was set at 900, so wanted to match that. Started to turn the set screw in the opposite direction with no change.
    Until it hit a spot where it went right back to stalling.
    Read that if you hold the throttle wide open it does not inject more fuel, in order to right a flooded situation. That worked and got the engine back on. Adjusted the set screw up again and the RPM went up but then settled around 4,000
    At this point I see a clear fluid come from the valve cover vent, so I shut the engine off.
    Then I see there’s oil on the floor on the opposite end coming from the dip stick.
    What in the world is going on??????

    John
    Making progress on the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  15. #13
    Member hgcars's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    50
    Post Thanks / Like
    Does your engine have a PCV valve? if so, make sure its working properly.

    Harold
    FFR Coupe #687 picked up on 3-28-15; First start, 8-1-16; First drive, 9-25-16; 1971 Mach 1 (owned since 1984), 1968 Shelby GT 500 Convertible (sold and paying for my Coupe), the best wife ever!

  16. Thanks John Dol thanked for this post
  17. #14
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Gorham, ME
    Posts
    905
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Harold, will try that when I get home.

    John
    Making progress on the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  18. #15
    Senior Member HCP 65 COUPE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    NORTH CENTRAL CT
    Posts
    145
    Post Thanks / Like
    Check for vacuum leaks you may have a bad seal between the intake and the heads. And check your oil for milky foaming mess you may have a head gasket or intake gasket that's leaking coolant into the ports/cylinders or crank case/lifter valley. And double check that your fuel pressure gauge is correct. Some thing is causing the ecu to dump a lot of extra fuel.

    Be careful the crank case is getting saturated with fuel and that's bad for bearings and rings.

    Check and see if you can turn down the warm up idle enrichment settings on the ecu and take the system out of closed loop operation till you can diagnose the problem. You can also check to see if the map sensor is giving readings close to a vacuum gauge.

  19. Thanks John Dol thanked for this post
  20. #16
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Aptos, CA
    Posts
    126
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by John Dol View Post
    Cleaned plugs and sensor again. Unplugged the rear view system. Re programmed the handheld. Gapped the plugs to 0.04.
    I hope you mean .40 and not .04 I would be surprised if it ran at all with that gap. I run a Holley HP and use .35 on my plugs without issues but not versed in the FAST. If the plugs are black that's a sign of over rich fuel, unless they're coated with oil, and then its another issue. Trying to use cleaned plugs once is o.k. but after that, its a crap shoot. I know plugs aren't cheap but once you find you're on the right path, put new ones in.

    S35 and Jon is right, my bad, .040 is what you have and .035 is what I run. The rest is still correct. Sorry for the misplaced decimal.
    Last edited by weendoggy; 09-23-2018 at 04:13 PM. Reason: decimal placement :)
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  21. Thanks John Dol thanked for this post
  22. #17
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Gorham, ME
    Posts
    905
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks guys, now I'm getting worried.....
    And yes 0.4

    John
    Making progress on the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  23. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    112
    Post Thanks / Like
    You were right the first time.
    0.04 is the same as 0.040, or what some call "forty thousandths". This is a reasonable spark plug gap.
    0.4 is four-tenths of an inch, about the size of my pinky. Equal to 0.400 inch.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Brown County Customs

Visit our community sponsor