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Thread: Mount master cylinders outside footbox

  1. #1
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    Question Mount master cylinders outside footbox

    I dont like the master cylinders inside the footbox where they are not easily accessible.
    Has anyone used forward swing pedals to mount the cylinders outside the footbox in the engine compartment? How about with a vacuum booster?

  2. #2
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    Swap out for a donor pedal box and use whitby power brakes.

  3. #3
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Thousands of FFR roadsters were built with the forward mounted m/cylinder, with, or without a booster..the Wilwood setup is relatively new.

  4. #4
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Two options: Use a donor Mustang box as mentioned. Or the Wilwood box can be modified pretty easily to mount a dual master cylinder outside the footbox. Either boosted or not. Vacuum or hydroboost. Involves installing a pushrod below the Wilwood brake pedal pivot. Mike Forte is one that I know does this mod. IMO no need to mess around with different swinging pedals or whatever.

    Having said that, while I was a little concerned as well with the MC's inside the footbox, having done two builds with them outside (one Mustang, one Wilwood) I find it's a clean and relatively simple setup. Plus easy to add a hydraulic clutch. I like it. Between the access cover now standard on the DS footbox, and how exposed they are from the underneath, access isn't a big deal IMO. They are reliable and shouldn't need access frequently at all. Unless you're absolutely deadset on power, I would leave them as designed.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-05-2018 at 04:24 PM.
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    Senior Member TomH33's Avatar
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    Hi
    On the 33HR I changed the clutch pedal to forward push and installed a bell crank on the brake pedal to reverse the push and move the master cylinder up on the fire wall to clear the valve cover. Check Pic._DSC0103.jpg

    This was not had to do and works great.

    TomH33

  6. #6
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    Thank you all for your suggestions. I guess it is best to leave as designed. Thanks again.
    jeff

  7. #7
    Curmudgeon mikeinatlanta's Avatar
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    What I did was cut out the factory mounting and weld in a much simpler mounting with four vertical bolts. Disconnect the lines and the four bolts and the entire pedal and master assemblies drop right out. No picture right now but basically just two bars from the front plate to the 2X2.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    This is the way to do it. Using a Mustang pedal box and
    http://www.cncbrakes.com/Product.asp...240&subseries=
    The 241 bolts right up in place of the standard MC. I have been running one of these for 10+ years.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  9. #9

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    This is the way to do it. Using a Mustang pedal box and
    http://www.cncbrakes.com/Product.asp...240&subseries=
    The 241 bolts right up in place of the standard MC. I have been running one of these for 10+ years.
    I think your solution was way, way better than mine.
    This is one of those things that I wish I knew before I started my project.
    It is why I moved the wiring harness to the passenger side of the car so that I wouldn't bury the MC's in a sea of wires.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1458505005
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1458503188
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 09-06-2018 at 06:56 AM.

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