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Thread: backup light options

  1. #1
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    backup light options

    I have decided to add some kind of back up light to the hot rod to help those I might back into avoid me. I have prepped the wiring to handle this but I have not been able to settle on a light(s) that will work on this body style. I want functionality as well as style. Any ideas on what does work on this body to give me what I need? thx

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    I pulled a wire for the back up lights on my build also. Since I have to wire for the tag light, I plan to run the backup light wire in the same harness and hopefully use one of the tag frames that have backup light incorporated into the frame.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

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    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    I've also got wires pulled, haven't decided on lights either. Been looking at a lot of different ones, will probably get some hi intensity LED's to see when backing up at night and for those a-holes behind me that don't know how to turn off their hi beams.

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    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    I am installing a backup/plate light from United Pacific, http://truck.uapac.com/product/cont?pid=13451, It combines both the backup and plate light. Clean and looks vintage too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I've also got wires pulled, haven't decided on lights either. Been looking at a lot of different ones, will probably get some hi intensity LED's to see when backing up at night and for those a-holes behind me that don't know how to turn off their hi beams.
    Thanks to all for this thread. JimLev, could you be specific on how you "pulled" wires, incorporating the transmission plug that initiates the backup light. I have a '33 with BP 306 w/ a TKO trans.

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    I can't post a picture for some reason, but if you look on page 3 of my Kootenai Valley Customs build page, You'll see some super bright led motorcycle turn signals for reverse light, signal lights and an extra set of hidden brake lights to draw attention in traffic. Although they mostly come in a waterproof housing with a stud mount, I mounted them flush with a bracket from the back side. Shame to hide a pretty chrome housing but it worked.
    If you see the picture, you'll notice how bright they are, even in daylight.
    Last edited by Tim Whittaker; 03-20-2020 at 07:25 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jones-eye33 View Post
    Thanks to all for this thread. JimLev, could you be specific on how you "pulled" wires, incorporating the transmission plug that initiates the backup light. I have a '33 with BP 306 w/ a TKO trans.
    Jones, my tranny didn't have a switch, neither did my shifter, (pics are in my build).
    I have a bank of switches that has 12 volts going to them when the key is on.
    The switch for the backup light sends 12 volts to the LED light I mounted in the back.
    In your case with a switch in the tranny you need to basically do the same, 12v to one side of the switch, the other switch wire will go to the + side of the backup light (if your using an LED light), the other light wire will go to chassis ground.

    Tim, nice pics.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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    Those lights are awesome! What I would suggest is if you have daytime running lights is to pigtail the + off of them to the backup light and run the ground - through the tranny switch or toggle switch. Most automotive switches are now using this method as it seems to be more effective. Just a thought it will work either way. Cheers Ray
    Last edited by rapidray; 03-21-2020 at 09:10 AM.

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    Lots of builders in the Roadster Forum use Mini-Cooper back up lights. I've sent you a PM with a link.

    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
    -- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"

    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue

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    Here is a write up that I found:

    "
    Search Community


    Home Forums Factory Five Racing Roadsters FFR FAQ - UNDER CONSTRUCTION Electrical
    Mini Backup light - howto
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    Chevy FFR - Randy J.
    Chevy FFR - Randy J.
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    Discussion Starter • #1 • Nov 26, 2007 (Edited)
    Mini Back Up Light by Randy J.

    I just installed my Mini Cooper backup (reverse) light yesterday and if I didn't have to look around for the tiny terminal connectors, it would have been about an hour's job. It's really inexpensive, easy, and looks great!

    Anyway, I took a bunch of pictures and decided that I would post a 'howto' here just in case those that follow us can use it.

    Thanks to Tony A for the initial information and being the first (I was the 2nd and wrote the FAQ)

    Stuff you'll need (or want)

    - Mini Backup light

    - Tiny push on crimp terminals. I think they're used for small car speakers. (I got mine at an auto parts store. Radio Shack and Home Depot didn't carry them that small)

    - Dremel with the sanding drum on it.

    - Sabre saw

    - Drill motor and a large sized bit or a step drill.

    - Sharpie (or equivalent marker)

    - Silicone


    Step 1.

    Get a Mini Cooper backup light assembly from a Mini dealership.

    The part number is: 63-22-1-477-678

    They cost about 10 dollars depending on where you go and are a really nice part. The pricing has to be a mistake as there is no car part ever that was this nice and cost so little.

    Step 2.

    Prep the light. As you can see in this picture, there are these little 'ribs' on the light that would prevent you from inserting it in the hole you're going to cut in your body.



    30 seconds with the Dremel sanding drum and they're gone like in this picture:

    http://www.ffcars.com/FAQ/min20006.jpg/[img]

    You'll also notice that I cut the plug. My original intention was to solder wires onto it but the lugs are chrome so push on terminals had to be used instead. I put a dab of silicone on top of them to keep corrosion down.

    [img]http://www.ffcars.com/FAQ/min20014.jpg

    Step 3.

    Locate your hole. Make sure you don't hit the trunk floor and that you find center. I decided center was the middle between the two lower quickjack mounting bolts. It may not be exactly center when paint is applied and if not, I'll have my painter move the hole. ...but you get the idea.

    Step 4.

    Set the light, face toward the car and use a Sharpie to trace around the lens, essentially making an oval the shape of the light.

    After you've traced the outline, you need to 'freehand' another oval inside the first. Keep in mind that your actual hole has to be smaller than the outside oval on the light. This will keep the light from pushing right through. Instead, it will stop at the 'flange'.

    Here is a picture of the two ovals on the car with a sharpie:



    Step 5.

    Drill a few holes inside that are big enough to get your sabre saw blade into.

    Step 6.

    Cut the oval with your sabre saw but leave yourself some room. Don't cut right up to the line, you'll sneak up on the actual size with the dremel.

    Step 7.

    Use your dremel again with the sanding drum to open up the hole. Keep putting the light in the hole and open it up so that it's a snug fit but not too tight. You'll use silicone on the back side to keep it in.

    Here's a picture of the hole all finished:



    Step 8.

    Wire it! I picked up a frame ground right near the light and soldered my reverse light with a piece of shrink wrap.

    Step 9.

    Push the light all the way to the 'flange' and put a bead of silicone on the backside to keep it in."
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
    -- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"

    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue

  14. #14

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    Ray - I checked that P/N on Amazon, and the price was $63+. Was this an old posting, or is Amazon just way out of line on the price? Keith

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    Because its so dangerous to park heading in (with the 33 grille) I decided that backing in to a parking space would be the default mode. This in mind I incorporated a back up camera. There are a variety of these and many come with reverse back up LEDs. I made the aluminum bracket but some back up cams come with the bracket already.

    In the picture the small greenish segments that are around the cam are the LEDs. plateI.jpg

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  17. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by progmgr1 View Post
    Ray - I checked that P/N on Amazon, and the price was $63+. Was this an old posting, or is Amazon just way out of line on the price? Keith
    That's a very old post from the archives at FFCars.

    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
    -- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"

    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue

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    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    All, I had previously posted below the option that I did, I finally installed it with a bracket I made out of aluminum angle painted black, it turned out great. My son wired it to the transmission switch (TKO600) as well so it lights up when put in reverse.

    20200307_134247 - for Posting.jpg Reverse light
    20200307_134231 - for posting.jpg Plate light
    20200316_184641 - Plate bracket.jpg Plate bracket, you can just see the light.

    Hope this is helpful United Pacific, http://truck.uapac.com/product/cont?pid=13451

    I still have the pattern I used if you want a copy or I can make a shareable PDF drawing.
    20200325_083419.jpg Better view from below
    Last edited by AJT '33; 03-25-2020 at 07:36 AM. Reason: added picture
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  20. #18
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    Oooh....that looks sleak! Good job!
    MK4 Build School - Jan 2020
    Hot Rod Build School - Feb 2020

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    That does look great Andreas
    For what it's worth, another option is the Billet Specialties license plate frame. They have lit versions, one of which also includes a 3rd brake light. However, you can replace the red lens with a clear one and change the function to a backup light. I inquired and they don't have a clear lens available but it would be dead simple to make one.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsp-55520

    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    That does look great Andreas
    For what it's worth, another option is the Billet Specialties license plate frame. They have lit versions, one of which also includes a 3rd brake light. However, you can replace the red lens with a clear one and change the function to a backup light. I inquired and they don't have a clear lens available but it would be dead simple to make one.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsp-55520

    Steve
    Hey Steve, interesting but in Quebec the third brake light would not be high enough but the idea of the reverse light is interesting.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Agreed Andreas, the license plate based 3rd brake light doesn't work for our situation, no one is going to notice it down low. I'm still undecided if I'm going to try to incorporate one into the hardtop.

    here's yet another backup light option...
    https://www.vleds.com/lpr-reverse-72-w.html

    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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    Here is a shot of my 3rd brake light mounted in the top. I used a Mustang unit but had to rework it extensively. If I were to do again would look at something that 'StreetWorks" has that could be adapted.

    I flipped the picture it was actually up side down on the stand I built to work on it. 3rd brake lgtII.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tampa33Build View Post
    Looks like the United Pacific light
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

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