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Thread: TKO shifting question

  1. #1

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    TKO shifting question

    I have a used TKO 500 and a 97 cobra engine. I recently started to gocart and noticed it is almost impossible to down shift from 3rd to 2nd. The clutch cable is adjusted so that it engages pretty soon off the floor. Do you think it is an issue with the clutch adjustment or something else?
    Thanks
    Craig

  2. #2
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    You can't move the handle? Grinds going into gear? Very stiff shift? Any noise? Is the car moving?
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    I would bet that you just need to tighten the cable a little.

    I don't think this is your issue, but: Did you use genuine GM Sychromesh fluid? There are several out there that "meet the requirements", Pennzoil etc, but Tremec makes a pretty big deal out of using the GM fluid. I have read several hard shifting threads on various forums that have been fixed with a fluid change.

    Here is a little bit of advice when you get going. For a 2-3 upshift when you are really getting on it, don't grip the shifter like a 400lbs gorilla. Use your open palm and shove it forward. It will nail 3rd every time. You don't need to go up - over- up like some other transmissions.

  4. #4

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    The shifting issue is when the car is moving on the road. Only an issue in the downshift From third going to second. No grinding just the inability to get it Into second gear from third. The others seem to work fine. Avalanche, I don’t remember what I used to be honest.

  5. #5
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    First, adjust your clutch and once that is adjusted correctly and you're sure the clutch is disengaging like it should then perform another test drive to verify the problem is still there.

    If it's refusing to shift (refusing as in it won't go no matter what you do) into second from third that sounds like a shifting mechanism. These are often modified by race shops to prevent the mechanism from hanging up as this is a common problem with TKO when trying to bang fast shifts. Places like Liberty Gear can work their magic on the shifting mechanism IF this is the problem.

    If it's slow going into second from third but will eventually go that sounds like the synchro is taking too long to synchronize the speed differential between the two gear speeds and make the shift. There is also a modification commonly performed on the TKO for this that consists of new lined synchro rings making shifts faster. But lube can have an affect on shifting as well and since you don't know for sure what lube you're running I suggest you start there. Drain and flush the existing and add the GM fluid recommended for the TKO. Then another road test to evaluate if the problem persists.

    You can also call Liberty Gear as they are a TKO dealer and specialize in working out the problems inherent in the TKO.

  6. #6
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    If you double clutch it on the down shift will it drop in? If so it’s a synchro issue. Some times a cable adjustment will help it. And the right fluid goes along ways to make the synchros work correctly (GM synchromesh). If double clutching does nothing then it’s a shifter mechanism issue and it may have to be modified to make it work.
    Mk4, Moser M88 rear end, Eaton truetrak, Craft Racing 461 Windsor, MMR pro trans, Glenn’s 1,000 hp cobra fuel system and lots of other parts.

  7. #7
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    I have almost the exact same problem with my used TKO 600. Mine is not just hard to shift from 3rd to 2nd but will also make noise. Going to pull it out this fall and send it to liberty. I feel confident everything I can do is correct.

  8. #8
    Senior Member tonywy's Avatar
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    I changed my fluid out to Amsoil, seemed to fix some of the issues described here. Shifting the way Avalanche 325 says is correct, works every time.

  9. #9

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    Thanks NAZ and everyone for the suggestions. I will start with changing the transmission fluid and making sure the cable is adjusted correctly and go from there.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Craig, if the clutch is engaging shortly after the pedal comes off the floor, like others have said, put a few more turns on the adjuster and you may find the trans shift much easier. How about going into reverse. Any grinding noise? If so....clutch adjustment.
    MkIV #7854, Kit picked up September 2012, Coyote/BOSS 302 intake tuned at 488HP, TKO600, Center Force, Moser 8.8, driveshaft safety hoop, Stainless Header 4x1x4 headers, Gas-N-sidepipes, rad shroud, Wilwoods, NO PS/PB, heater/defroster, heated seats, wipers, Herb door panels, Dynamat Extreme sound/heat dampening, premium Rodtop top, Fast Freddie lexan wind screen, Nitto 555R, drop trunk battery, drop trunk storage,

  11. #11
    Member FlyingCobra's Avatar
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    I put about 50,000 miles on the TKO I used to have, and then another 30,000 or so on another TKO. The GM Synchromesh fluid is critical to proper shifting. I forget what the schedule was for changing the fluid but I stuck to it.

    While I don't double clutch, a little blip of the throttle when downshifting tends to help everything come together nicely.

  12. #12

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    Hi NAZ, what does it mean to flush the existing fluid other than draining it out and replacing?

  13. #13
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingCobra View Post
    I put about 50,000 miles on the TKO I used to have, and then another 30,000 or so on another TKO. The GM Synchromesh fluid is critical to proper shifting. I forget what the schedule was for changing the fluid but I stuck to it.

    While I don't double clutch, a little blip of the throttle when downshifting tends to help everything come together nicely.
    +1 on goosing the throttle.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  14. #14
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    cfriedman67, in this context "flushing" simply means using a bit of the GM Synchromesh Fluid to flush whats left in the case that won't completely drain. You can't get everything out as the old oil will cling to bearings, gears and other surfaces but you can flush out what little is left in the bottom of the trans case by using a bit of the new fluid. What little is left should become diluted as it mixes with the new fluid and it's not likely to pose an issue. Most folks would likely skip this step and I won't argue that's a problem but I'm a bit more detail oriented and when changing fluid I will flush the old to get every bit of old fluid and any particulates left behind in the bottom of the case.

  15. #15

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    Thanks for the explanation.

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