Where to use Rivnuts on a Mk4 ?

[BadAsp427]

WHERE and WHY did you use Rivnuts on your MK4 Build?

I just did some searching and did not find a thread specifically listing all the places that one would want to use Rivnuts, on the MK4 so I thought I would start one, if there is one, sorry!

So lets make this a very usable Thread for all future builders.

Photos will be great also.

Answer these two questions

1- Where, and a brief reason, did you install rivnuts on your MK4 build?

2- Where do you WISH you had installed rivnuts on your MK4 build and why?

[GoDadGo]

Everywhere:

Stainless Allen Head Button Head Screws > #10 X 24 for the:
1. Dash Board Upper & Lower Mounting Tabs
2. Top Of Transmission Tunnel
3. Dog House / Master Cylinder Access Panel
4. Fuel Sending Unit Panel
5. Fuel Pick Up Panel
6. Slave Cylinder Access Panel
7. Stereo Speakers
8. Stereo / Switch Dash Panel

Stainless Allen Head Button Head Screws > 1/4" X 20 for the:
1. Windshield Wiper Motor Mounting Plate
2. Lower Frame Where The Body Meets The Frame
3. Upper Radiator Mount
4. Radiator Shroud Used To Mount The Fan
5. Home Made Wife Heater / The Heater Core Mount.
... https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1460598917.
... https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1460598915

Planned: Front Fender Elephant Ears
Planned: Rear Inner Fender Inserts

NOTE: My goal is to be able to get to everything easily and for Form To Follow Function requiring the fewest tools possible to service stuff.

https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

[DavidW]

I didn't use any, didn't see the need for it. Its an extra step and might be functional if you anticipate having to disassemble things regularly.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've never put a rivnut in any of the cars I've built. That said some of the cars that I've gotten in for paint had them installed at the F panel to splash panel interface which was kind of handy and quicker to disassemble/reassemble than drilling out rivets then putting in new ones later.

Jeff

[Dave Howard]

I didn't use any, didn't see the need for it. Its an extra step and might be functional if you anticipate having to disassemble things regularly.

I didn't use any either. The only panels on my car that are removable are the covers in the trunk for the fuel pump and sending unit. I used small self tapping SS screws. I like to keep it simple and not re-engineer an already well engineered product. If it's good enough for Smitty's car...it's good enough for mine too.

[cv2065]

I will only use them on the MC panel and speakers. One because it’s functional and makes sense and two because it looks cool. I’ve already had to drill out a couple of rivets and really are effortless to do.

[GoDadGo]

So The Moral To This Thread Is:

If you put a Chevy with a ZF 6-Speed & Dana 44 Rear in a Factory Five MK-4, Use Rivet Nuts!

Have A Great Day From The OCD SBC Dark Side Guy!

https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k

Steve

[edwardb]

Put me in the camp using a fair number of 10-32 nutserts and a few larger sizes. Basically, if something is a one-time assembly, clearly rivets are the way to go. But if something is a maintenance item (e.g. the front DS footbox access panel) or something that's going to be placed and removed more than once (e.g. the wheel well splash guards) I used nutserts. For the most part, the materials used in the build aren't thick enough for tapping threads. A nutsert is a quick and easy way to get a connection with multiple threads. I'm not a fan of self-tapping screws or routinely drilling out rivets. But there's not anything wrong with that and probably is fine. Do it how you want.

[Fixit]

So far I have used RivNuts/Nutserts on the following:

Front "elephant ears" FrontLines03.png

DS footbox access hatch
Coyote ECU mounting bracket (ECU to bracket mounting - not bracket to frame)ECU33.jpg

Coyote underhood fusebox to bracket (inserts in fusebox)

Wiper Motor bracket to firewall Firewall_03.jpg

Hydraulic Reservoir(s) to frame bracketLines06.png
Reservoir bracket to frame

Battery cut-off switch & Coyote "master" fuse holder

FFR's propensity to use "nyloc" nuts on the sub-assemblies held on with machine screws makes me think long & hard about how much of a PITA they would be to disassemble when the car is together.
A nyloc nut requires you to have a tool on BOTH sides, and hold the nut for 99% of the screw's travel. (You can't just break them loose and spin the nut off)
I think about reaching in up/under/behind the dash to hold a nut, and being in the engine compartment for the other side... not easy to do. Or leaning over the fender and working through the hood opening, trying to get to both sides of a small screw.

Enter a nutsert. A drop of "blue", or a lockwasher will hold the part(s) together indefinitely... and repeatably. A sheet metal screw will eventually tear-out the "meat" it's holding with, and drilling out rivets isn't my idea of fun.

[shark92651]

For the large tubes on the frame I used a tap to cut threads. For the aluminum panels or the 3/4" tubes, I used rivnuts. Places I used them were for removable panels for fuel pump and fuel sender, splash guards on F-Panels, underside of dash hoop for "hidden fastener" attachment of dash, removable panel on top of DS footbox. Be careful though that you properly install them so that they don't loosen and spin on you. I had one do that on me but luckily I was able to get the bolt out and replace it. If a bolt is binding when going into a rivnut, do NOT force it

[Avalanche325]

1. Elephant ears.
2. Drivers footbox access panel. I made a gasket to keep it water tight.
3. Under dash panel. Piano hinge on the back and riv-nuts where it attaches to the dash lip.

I have had all three off more then once.
I have never had to remove anything else panel-wise.