Tie Rod Length Side to Side

[cv2065]

Installed my power steering from FFR. Manual says to install tie rods 1-2 inches from the end. I do the same on both sides and the hub alignment is off (i.e. one is straight forward and the other is at a 20 degree angle.

I read that the new power steering units from FFR has the correct length built into them, so in regard to the tie rods, can I have them screwed in at different lengths on each side to get the hubs parallel with each other (pointing straight)?

[cv2065]

So just to follow up, if I install the tie rod ends while the rotors are pointed straight ahead on each side, I can’t get a full inch of thread engagement on each tie rod end...more like 3/4”. Does this mean that I need tie rod extensions?

[edwardb]

First step is to center the rack. Turn the steering wheel all the way one direction to the stop. Then turn all the way the other way to the stop counting the exact number of turns. Divide that number in half and crank back from one limit that amount. Now the rack is physically centered. Now screw on the tie rod ends getting the wheels roughly straight ahead. The exact location of the tie rod ends will be determined at final alignment. But that should get you in the ballpark. Minimum length of thread engagement should be at least one full diameter. I've not experienced the thread engagement being drastically different from side-to-side. But I also haven't used the FFR PS rack.

You mention tie rod extensions. Not sure what you mean by that. If you mean rack extenders as discussed on the forum occasionally, those would not typically be used only the increase thread engagement. They are specifically to adjust the steering geometry, and my understanding is your PS rack already has those installed.

[cv2065]

Thanks Paul. I’ll center the rack as you suggested tomorrow, then engage the tie rod ends and see where I’m at. I asked Mark from Breeze if his tie rod ends would fit, as they are 1/2” longer than the ones I have, but they are for an MKIII with 9/16-18 threads, and not sure if those are the same size as what FFR now uses for the MKIV.

Regarding the tie rod extensions, you are correct in that I was referring to the older power steering rack that didn’t have the additional length built in.

[Fixit]

Follow Paul's instruction on "centering the rack"...
- Drop the tie-rods out of the steer arms (if not already done).
- Take a tape measure, and find an easily repeatable spot on the fore and aft of the rotors, as close to the horizontal centerline as you can - somewhere you can slide the tape measure through frame obstructions and hit the same spot repeatedly. Measure front & rear.
- Tap/Knock/Push the L & R side spindle assemblies and re-measure until they are the same distance apart fore & aft.

- Thread on one side tie-rod end. From where it catches threads, count the number of full and half-turns it takes to where it will fit into the steer arm without moving the spindle very much. Take into account the angle, etc. - the shaft of the tie-rod end should just push up into the steer arm. Thread on the tie-rod nut finger tight.

(This is another spot where a daub of anti-seize on the threads would be a good thing)

- Using the number of turns from above, thread on the other side tie-rod end, and snug it into the steer arm.
- Re-measure the fore & aft distance between the rotors. If you did the above correctly, they shouldn't be too far off/different.

Here's where you can fine-tune your base setting.
Steering_02.jpg
- Remove the dust boot clamp from the small end of the steering shaft(s) on the rack (the shaft where the tie rod end threaded onto). Just move it onto the shaft, so it's not clamping the boot - the shaft can spin inside the boot.
- The rack shaft(s) has a hex section on it, where you can get a wrench on the shaft. You will be turning the L & R rack shafts with this hex. (it's a ball/socket joint, you're not unscrewing anything from the rack)
- Make a mark on one of the hex flats for ease of counting turns.
- Taking repeated fore & aft measurements off the rotors, turn the L & R rack shafts EQUALLY clockwise or anti-clockwise to move the spindle/rotor assemblies until you've achieved about a 1/8-inch "toe in" (front/fore measurement is 1/8" less than rear/aft measurement. (Pigeon toed) If you crank the DS a half-turn, crank the PS a half-turn. Stay equal.

**While doing this keep an eye on the dust boots. They have a habit of sticking, and wadding up.**

You've just successfully done a rough toe-in setting.

[cv2065]

Follow Paul's instruction on "centering the rack"...
- Drop the tie-rods out of the steer arms (if not already done).
- Take a tape measure, and find an easily repeatable spot on the fore and aft of the rotors, as close to the horizontal centerline as you can - somewhere you can slide the tape measure through frame obstructions and hit the same spot repeatedly. Measure front & rear.
- Tap/Knock/Push the L & R side spindle assemblies and re-measure until they are the same distance apart fore & aft.

- Thread on one side tie-rod end. From where it catches threads, count the number of full and half-turns it takes to where it will fit into the steer arm without moving the spindle very much. Take into account the angle, etc. - the shaft of the tie-rod end should just push up into the steer arm. Thread on the tie-rod nut finger tight.

(This is another spot where a daub of anti-seize on the threads would be a good thing)

- Using the number of turns from above, thread on the other side tie-rod end, and snug it into the steer arm.
- Re-measure the fore & aft distance between the rotors. If you did the above correctly, they shouldn't be too far off/different.

Here's where you can fine-tune your base setting.
Steering_02.jpg
- Remove the dust boot clamp from the small end of the steering shaft(s) on the rack (the shaft where the tie rod end threaded onto). Just move it onto the shaft, so it's not clamping the boot - the shaft can spin inside the boot.
- The rack shaft(s) has a hex section on it, where you can get a wrench on the shaft. You will be turning the L & R rack shafts with this hex. (it's a ball/socket joint, you're not unscrewing anything from the rack)
- Make a mark on one of the hex flats for ease of counting turns.
- Taking repeated fore & aft measurements off the rotors, turn the L & R rack shafts EQUALLY clockwise or anti-clockwise to move the spindle/rotor assemblies until you've achieved about a 1/8-inch "toe in" (front/fore measurement is 1/8" less than rear/aft measurement. (Pigeon toed) If you crank the DS a half-turn, crank the PS a half-turn. Stay equal.

**While doing this keep an eye on the dust boots. They have a habit of sticking, and wadding up.**

You've just successfully done a rough toe-in setting.

Thanks John. This helps as Russ Thompson will have my steering boss for another week or so.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Good info from Paul and John. One thing not mentioned however was that when doing a rough toe setting the suspension needs to be mocked up to be reasonably close to actual ride height:





Cheers,
Jeff

roughalignment1.jpg

roughalignment2.jpg

[edwardb]

X2 on everything from John and Jeff. One other quick comment FYI. If it turns out you need to replace the tie rod ends, there's no difference between a "Mk3" or "Mk4." Both are using the same vintage Mustang steering parts. If it comes to that, look at Moog ES2150RL tie rod ends. Nice parts. But I doubt it will be necessary to replace them, unless you want to.

[Fixit]

the suspension needs to be mocked up to be reasonably close to actual ride height:

DOH!
(Ok... it was late, uh very early when I decided to surf - bad idea - you forget things!)

Also... don't forget to spin the lock/jam nut down onto the steering rack shafts before threading on the tie-rod ends!

[CraigS]

One more thought for you. Throughout this whole process you also need to be sure the steering wheel is level when the wheels are straight. Quite often you will need to adjust the shaft to rack at the splines at the lower u-joint. Or you may have the triangle connection depending which rack you have. Either way, it can be a pain as it is often necessary to move the rack in it's mounts and/or loosen the bearing bolts where the shaft goes through the firewall.

[cv2065]

Thanks again for everyone's input. After I squared everything off and centered the PS unit, I was still only about 3/4" of threads engaged with my tie rod ends. I picked up a pair of the Moog es2150rl tie rod ends that Paul had mentioned and man, these things are much better. The boot is integrated into the tie rod end and each tie rod end is 1/2" longer than the stock one, so I've now got 1.25" on both sides threaded. These also come with castle nuts and cotter pins which I like better than the Nylox. Perfect.