Help me with Coyote pre-install checklist

[shark92651]

I think I've just about run out of things to do prior to installing the motor and trans. To recap I have a 2017 Gen 2 Coyote crate motor, Quicktime bell housing, Tremec TKO 600, Ford/Centerforce clutch, and Tilton hydraulic release bearing. The entire powertrain has been assembled and is on an engine cradle. I have installed the alternator, mini-starter, KRC power steering kit, oil psi sender, and water temp sender. I have installed the battery, Coyote PDB and PCM, battery cut-off switch, starter wires, and all the RF wiring harnesses (senders harness, front harness, rear harness), and wiper motor harness. I am NOT running heater or A/C.

I plan to lift it with my hoist and cut the flange off the bottom of the Quicktime bell housing prior to install so it won't hang below the 4" rails.

Is there any thing else I will need to do on the engine that is a lot easier to do with it on the ground than in the engine bay?

I installed the transmission A-frame support as that was the recommendation by the guys at the Mott school. Another builder told me probably better to install after engine/trans is in place because I will need all the room I can get - which is the better advice?

Thanks,
David

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Did not know about the school advice till now. Installed the A frame after. Took about 10 minutes to drop the dressed engine in once it was lifted on the hoist

One person on the hoist & one on either side to guide it. Potential clearance issue driver foot box front right corner square tube to header.

[phileas_fogg]

If you're working alone, install the A-frame support AFTER installing the engine. If you have helpers to guide the transmission up & into place, install the A-frame before.

Also, dial in your bell housing to make sure it's properly centered on the transmission shaft; a description is here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...w-to-dial-them


John

[shark92651]

What about things like heater bypass, tapping into coil wire for tach, etc... Are those easy enough to do after engine in place?

[Al_C]

Unless you are using four-into-four headers, I'd put your headers on beforehand. The tach connection is on the top of the head, so that's easy to get at. You already mounted key components on the frame (especially the PDB), so you're good there. How about your fuel pressure regulator? If you're mounting that in the engine bay, it's easier before. Same with fuel lines that need to be secured to the frame or footbox. You mentioned having installed the power steering kit already - I'd mount brackets before, but don't attach reservoirs until later, as you'll want as much room to play with as possible.

[shark92651]

Is it possible to access the fill plug on the side of the TKO 600 once it is in place?

[shark92651]

You mentioned having installed the power steering kit already - I'd mount brackets before, but don't attach reservoirs until later, as you'll want as much room to play with as possible.

In my case I have the newer KRC kit with the reservoir on the front of the motor.

[Paul2STL]

Once you get the Coyote close to the final resting position then you want to put on your headers. I put the headers on with the engine about 2-3 inches forward of the motor mounts. The driver side is really tight, I used the grade 8 locking bolts they have two different ways of tighting. You can use a hex socket or box end open end wrench, makes it easier to have the different types of tools. Also found that lifting the rear of the car onto wood blocks made the angle of dropping the engine in easier. I had 12" long 2x8's stacked about 7 high under the rear wheels and a 4x4 under the fronts to get the engine hoist to clear the wheels. I filled my trans through the shifter plate location after it was in, checking filled level hole to make sure not to over fill. There is not a lot of room side to side once you start lowering the Coyote in so go slow and shouldn't have a problem. Also you might want to leave the oil and water sensors off while installing they are delicate and could get broken easily. Not hard to put on once in the car. That is what I did. Good Luck

[Al_C]

Is it possible to access the fill plug on the side of the TKO 600 once it is in place?

Yes, as long as you haven't mounted all of the trans tunnel aluminum. I haven't riveted the aluminum in place yet so I'd have access to everything - like that plug. So far, so good!

[FLPBFoot]

Is it possible to access the fill plug on the side of the TKO 600 once it is in place?

Dave my build school co-hart,

I put in the Synchromesh Manual Trans Fluid while the motor and trans were on the crate. Very easy to make sure it's all level and get it squirted in. Used the squeeze bottles. Do you have a spare yoke in the back of the trans? This will keep any fluid from leaking out during install. Mine went in without leaking a drop.

Steve

[shark92651]

Dave my build school co-hart,

I put in the Synchromesh Manual Trans Fluid while the motor and trans were on the crate. Very easy to make sure it's all level and get it squirted in. Used the squeeze bottles. Do you have a spare yoke in the back of the trans? This will keep any fluid from leaking out during install. Mine went in without leaking a drop.

Steve

Good suggestion. I'll just fill it prior to install and seal up the end of the trans with some plastic and rubber bands. I plan to have a removable trans tunnel cover so in the future I could just access it from the top.

[initiator]

Looks like a pretty comprehensive list to me.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Good suggestion. I'll just fill it prior to install and seal up the end of the trans with some plastic and rubber bands. I plan to have a removable trans tunnel cover so in the future I could just access it from the top.

Agree fill it before to put it in the car, that said:

Check the trans. Most of the TKO-600's I dealt with had a plug in the tail shaft from the factory. What you don't want to do is try to force the yoke into the plug. Three of the plugs I saw including mine are tricky at first sight because they are splined for some reason & look like they should accept the yoke.

[shark92651]

Agree fill it before to put it in the car, that said:

Check the trans. Most of the TKO-600's I dealt with had a plug in the tail shaft from the factory. What you don't want to do is try to force the yoke into the plug. Three of the plugs I saw including mine are tricky at first sight because they are splined for some reason & look like they should accept the yoke.

I purchased the "upgraded synchronized" TKO 600 from Liberty Gears and it looks like they removed the plug during their upgrade.

[frd2]

If you're working alone, install the A-frame support AFTER installing the engine. If you have helpers to guide the transmission up & into place, install the A-frame before.

Also, dial in your bell housing to make sure it's properly centered on the transmission shaft; a description is here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...w-to-dial-them


John

Coyote can’t be dial aligned. The dowels are hollow w bolts through them if I remember the issue correctly. If it is not in alignment then a new bell housing is needed.

[phileas_fogg]

Coyote can’t be dial aligned. The dowels are hollow w bolts through them if I remember the issue correctly. If it is not in alignment then a new bell housing is needed.

Yeah; it seems that way. Except NAZ found some offset dowels that work with the Coyote.

I'm a SBF guy, so I didn't pay attention to the specifics. But if you PM NAZ, he'll point you in the right direction. Or set me straight !


John