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Thread: Frame Dolly thoughts on height.

  1. #1
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    Frame Dolly thoughts on height.

    How high did you build your frame dolly and do you wish you would have gone higher or lower? Why?

    Was going to borrow one, but it looks like I'll be building one instead so I'm looking for input.


    Thanks!


    Saleen9165

  2. #2

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    Ray's Avatar
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    I used this.....https://www.harborfreight.com/30-in-...lly-61897.html until I had a roller.

    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
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  4. #3
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    Just remember that you have to get it out from under the car at some point, so low enough to slide out with the car on jack stands.
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    You'll be tempted to build it higher than you may like. I settled on the cross supports being ~14" of so off the deck which seem to work for everything I do with it. I also made mine expandable lengthwise as I use it for chassis, body and other large pieces. Wish I'd have made the cross supports expandable as well and one of these days may just modify it to be expandable.

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  8. #5
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    So, I found this post and used it. I modified it only by making it higher. On top of the 4x4, I stacked a 4x6 so total height I have to the bottom of my frame rails is 21". I find it perfect IMO for working both in and under the car. The photos here are of the one I built. CLICK HERE to see the plans for it from the original poster. HERE is the actual PDF document for the plans.

    IMG_1246.jpg IMG_1248.jpg IMG_1212.jpg IMG_1247.jpg

    The wheels are from Northern Tool and are rated at 800 lbs ea and add 7" height. They are all swivel and lockable. I rotate the car around in my garage at least two or three times a week, very easy and extremely sturdy. I always turn the end of the car that I'm working on to be next to my work bench. I'm lucky to have just enough room to do this.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by BadAsp427; 09-10-2018 at 06:09 AM.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
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  10. #6
    Senior Member Barrel's Avatar
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    I have a dolly from a previous project and used it again for '33 HR build. I made it so that the frame was set at the right height to enable me to do a most of the work sitting down on an adjustable stool. The frame has (braked) castors as does the stool. If you are less than 50 years old you can disregard this suggestion.

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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    I did the same as BadAsp, but instead of stacking a 4"x6" on top I put the wheels on "stilts". The stilts need reinforcement. If you do this:

    IMG_0871 by jhsitton, on Flickr

    without doing this:

    IMG_0874 by jhsitton, on Flickr

    you'll break one of the stilts going from the driveway over the lip of your garage, and it'll look like this:

    IMG_0872_2 by jhsitton, on Flickr

    If I were building another chassis dolly, I'd do what BadAsp did, but add a couple of vertical triangular supports to keep the 4"x6" securely in place.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  13. #8
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    G_0871[/url]

    If I were building another chassis dolly, I'd do what BadAsp did, but add a couple of vertical triangular supports to keep the 4"x6" securely in place.


    John
    LOL what you don’t see are the 8 8” lag bolts that go between the 4x4 and 4x6. I had to drill pilot holes and grease them and use an air impact wrench to get them in. I counter sunk them from the bottom up. The dolly is extremely solid.
    Last edited by BadAsp427; 09-11-2018 at 06:01 PM.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb/Heater/Heated Seats/Cruise Control/Drop Trunk & Battery/Custom Cubby

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  15. #9
    Senior Member FLPBFoot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saleen9165 View Post
    How high did you build your frame dolly and do you wish you would have gone higher or lower? Why?

    Was going to borrow one, but it looks like I'll be building one instead so I'm looking for input.


    Thanks!


    Saleen9165
    Hello,

    Where are you located? I'm done with mine and you are welcome to it.

    I'm in the NW Suburbs of Chicago.

    Steve
    2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print EFI 306 with AOD trans, and under car exhaust. Ford Eruption Green with saddle leather interior.
    1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.

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  17. #10
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    I am NOT less than 50, so THANKS!

  18. #11
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    Thanks, but I'm just West of Houston TX. I think I can build one for less than it would take to get that one down here. LOL

  19. #12
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    LOL what you don’t see are the 8 8” lag bolts that go between the 4c4 and4x6. I had to grease them and use an air impact wrench to get them in. I counter sunk them from the bottom up. Their dolly is extremely solid.
    That'll work!
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  20. #13
    Senior Member TBull's Avatar
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    Thanks for the plans guys. I'm building one of these for my next build that should start in about 4 weeks. Prepping the garage area now.

  21. #14
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    I have a dolly free to anyone that can pick it up. I'm just west of Austin, TX.
    LS1, TKO600, IRS, no scoop, undercar exhaust. Delivered June 14, 2017, First start December 31, 2017, Registered and Titled Sept 12, 2019.

  22. #15
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Lots of glue... counter sunk screws between 4x4’s and added galvanized U-shaped straps between them (routed wood so it was flush between them) I wanted it high...I’m old, tall and really bad knees. I’ll worry about getting it off when I get to that point lol Maybe I’ll have my MaxJax by then

    ED601699-E637-4678-99EE-4775EAB37EF1.jpg

    C61A1F13-B3FA-4507-9D4A-D4DDE6F81B3B.jpeg
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

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  23. #16
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I took a different route with mine. My back needed it a bit higher than the "typical" plans/ideas out there.
    Dolly_11.jpg Dolly_12.jpg Chassis_01.jpg Chassis_05.jpg

    The 4x4 uprights are lag bolted into the lower 4x4s
    The ratchet straps hold everything down tight to the dolly
    The vehicle frame sits in 2" radii, 24" OC, lined with cork
    The "X" bracing is 3/4" EMT, flattened on the end and middle, lag bolted to the legs and center stringer.
    Wheels are Northern Tool - Fronts are swivels, rears are fixed. I also have "step locks" on the front.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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  24. #17
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    I really like your dolly John. Unfortunately I started following your build after I built mine.
    How high is the bottom of the frame rail on it?

    Kurt
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

    Build thread

    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

  25. #18
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Re-read.... 30” lol ��
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

    Build thread

    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

  26. #19
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    20180905_184623.jpg My version of the frame dolly for the roadster. Simple to build, just straight cuts and a lot of lag screws. Used 2x6 pine for the horizontal pieces and 4x4 pine for the uprights. Yes, I did stain and seal it, couldn't help myself. With the 5" casters the bottom of the frame rails will sit about 21" from the ground. Expecting delivery of my roadster kit tomorrow so will see how it works.

  27. #20
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    That is soooo Kool!!!! I see total woodworking in your past Who else would bevel the inside post.
    Welcome to the family!!!!! We use finished inventory last week. Still need to get the body off and inventory the panels.
    Gonna build a body buck today! Looking at your dolly skills I hope do a build thread.... looks like you pay attention to detail!

    Kurt
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

    Build thread

    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

  28. #21
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post
    That is soooo Kool!!!! I see total woodworking in your past Who else would bevel the inside post.
    Welcome to the family!!!!! We use finished inventory last week. Still need to get the body off and inventory the panels.
    Gonna build a body buck today! Looking at your dolly skills I hope do a build thread.... looks like you pay attention to detail!

    Kurt
    Thank's Kurt. Just a weekend warrior carpenter. Stewart Transport called me this morning and said they will be here tomorrow. Was hoping for a little more lead time but no worries. Looking forward to getting started. Good luck with your build!

    Doug

  29. #22
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post
    I really like your dolly John. Unfortunately I started following your build after I built mine.
    How high is the bottom of the frame rail on it?

    Kurt
    Bottom of the 4" main tube(s) is at 25" AFF. (includes 5.5" of casters)
    Uprights are at 57" O.C.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021

  30. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kool AC View Post
    20180905_184623.jpg My version of the frame dolly for the roadster. Simple to build, just straight cuts and a lot of lag screws. Used 2x6 pine for the horizontal pieces and 4x4 pine for the uprights. Yes, I did stain and seal it, couldn't help myself. With the 5" casters the bottom of the frame rails will sit about 21" from the ground. Expecting delivery of my roadster kit tomorrow so will see how it works.
    Do you have specs on this frame? Looks similar to what I'd like to build in prep for my Roadster as well.

  31. #24
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsw81 View Post
    Do you have specs on this frame? Looks similar to what I'd like to build in prep for my Roadster as well.
    I can certainly post the drawings I made. Expecting delivery of my kit tomorrow morning, so will be a little busy, but will get them up as soon as I can.

  32. #25
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsw81 View Post
    Do you have specs on this frame? Looks similar to what I'd like to build in prep for my Roadster as well.
    Frame Dolly 3.jpg Frame Dolly 1.jpgFrame Dolly 2.jpg20180914_131905.jpg20180914_131938.jpgYou will need (4) 2"x6" x 8' long pine and (1) 4"x4" x 8; long pine stock, lag bolts as shown on drawings and (4) 5" casters with brakes. Took delivery of my roadster kit yesterday. Loaded the frame onto the dolly off the truck. The dolly is very stable and easy to roll. The long uprights on the dolly just fit between the short 4" tube sections so I wouldn't make it any longer than what is shown on the drawings. The height seems just about right. Hope this helps.

  33. #26
    Boydster's Avatar
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    So much here on building dollies, good info to be sure. Just make sure it's not higher than your floor jack can go to get the frame off the dolly. Or maybe you can use a block n tackle from the rafters... my frame dolly was maybe 1 ft off the floor and it worked great.

    And remember when you're done, it's either a give-away or it's firewood.
    Last edited by Boydster; 09-15-2018 at 07:02 PM.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

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  35. #27
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    Completed my chassis dolly tonight. I don't know where they found the single casters rated at 800lbs each, so I settled for the heaviest ones I could find. The first ones were only rated at 250 but when you locked them everything locked. These new ones only lock the wheels not the swivel so there can be some movement but I'm hoping with the weight of the frame, etc. it will be more stable.

    I ended up following the original plans with the exception of the addition of an extra 4x4 on each end for a little more height. All were glued and screwed with 7" lag bolts, and I added a plywood panel on each end to help stabilize them some more.

    Decided not to paint it and got the whole thing done for about $120 or so.

    I'll have to take some pics tomorrow.


    Saleen

  36. #28
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saleen9165 View Post
    Completed my chassis dolly tonight. I don't know where they found the single casters rated at 800lbs each, so I settled for the heaviest ones I could find.
    CLICK HERE These are the Casters that I have. They swivel and lock. The swivel can not be locked. I really like them. They roll easy and when locked, they are locked with very little movement even when I'm putting a lot of pressure on something. FYI, remember, you are going to have a lot of weight on it at some point. Be sure your casters are not only able to hold the weight vertically, but will be strong enough not to bend or buckle when you put any kind of lateral load on them, such as when you are torquing down a 250 F/Lb front hub nut...

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb/Heater/Heated Seats/Cruise Control/Drop Trunk & Battery/Custom Cubby

  37. #29
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    Well, I finished mine last night and simply added a 3rd 4x4 to the stack for extra lift thinking that would be fine. It puts the bottom of the frame rails at 18.75" which makes me a little concerned that it will be low. Added some plywood to the outside edge front and rear to help stabilize the 4x4s stacked, but they are also each tied to the other with 3 7" lag screws countersunk.

    We shall see.....

    Chassis dolly.jpg

  38. #30
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saleen9165 View Post
    Well, I finished mine last night and simply added a 3rd 4x4 to the stack for extra lift thinking that would be fine. It puts the bottom of the frame rails at 18.75" which makes me a little concerned that it will be low. Added some plywood to the outside edge front and rear to help stabilize the 4x4s stacked, but they are also each tied to the other with 3 7" lag screws countersunk.

    We shall see.....

    Chassis dolly.jpg
    Looks great. I was at 21" with the casters that I got from Northern Tool. They are 7" themselves. My only thought on yours it the size of the casters. Hope they work well for you, just be super careful if you have to roll over any kind of obstruction like a concrete expansion joint. Time to get building...

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb/Heater/Heated Seats/Cruise Control/Drop Trunk & Battery/Custom Cubby

  39. #31
    Junior Member Anonymoose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    So, I found this post and used it. I modified it only by making it higher. On top of the 4x4, I stacked a 4x6 so total height I have to the bottom of my frame rails is 21". I find it perfect IMO for working both in and under the car. The photos here are of the one I built. CLICK HERE to see the plans for it from the original poster. HERE is the actual PDF document for the plans.

    IMG_1246.jpg IMG_1248.jpg IMG_1212.jpg IMG_1247.jpg

    The wheels are from Northern Tool and are rated at 800 lbs ea and add 7" height. They are all swivel and lockable. I rotate the car around in my garage at least two or three times a week, very easy and extremely sturdy. I always turn the end of the car that I'm working on to be next to my work bench. I'm lucky to have just enough room to do this.

    Hope this helps.
    I’m building one right now following these plans but instead of a 4x6 I’m used an extra 4x4. The total height will be 19.5” with the casters I got. I’m curious what you used to secure the 4x4 and 4x6 together? This is my first time doing anything like this, in fact I bought a circle saw to do it. Just want to be sure I’m using the right screws to support the car and keep them together.

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