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Thread: 2015 Coyote first time getting up to temp

  1. #1
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    2015 Coyote first time getting up to temp

    Hey folks,

    I am building my Mk IV with the 2015 Coyote engine (gen2, I believe). I have run it for short periods a number of times, but now I want to get it up to temperature to make sure the cooling loop, water temp gauge, etc are working well. I have the recommended Factory Five set up for colling (with the shiny puke tank, rather than an expansion tank). My issue is that the engine may run at idle for 2 minutes without the temp gauge moving at all. This makes me nervous. I also don't feel any heat in the coolant lines. I am wondering, how long should I wait to let it get up to temp, and are there recommendations beyond FFR's instructions on ensuring i don't have air in the coolant lines?

    Thank you!

    Brian

  2. #2
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Can't help you with the air question, but it's going to take longer than 2 minutes to see anything on the gauge. Especially because of where the gauge sender is located per the instructions. Probably 5 minutes or more before you'll see anything. If you're interested, you can plug a monitor into the ODB2 port and watch the cylinder head temp. Has to be the right kind of monitor that will live stream the data. Most but the very basic ones do that.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  3. #3
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    Thanks! I think an element of this is just feeling brave enough that I won't overheat the engine if my gauge isn't working and there's air in the lines (I know that requires two failure points, but I know it's far from impossible).

  4. #4
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    There are a few threads out there that discuss the issue of air in the Coyote cooling system. Follow the FFFR instructions and you should be fine. You don't need much head to ensure all the air is out. 12" of tubing with OD close to the ID of the inside of the rad filler cap housing.....electrical or duct tape on one end to help seal the tubing in the rad fillef.....a funnel in the other end of the tubing. Hold it tightly in place above the rad and fill it.
    BTW, the slim OF tank provided in the kit by FFR doesn't have enough volume when the engine is hot. You can get a similar larger tank from Summit.
    MkIV #7854, Kit picked up September 2012, Coyote/BOSS 302 intake tuned at 488HP, TKO600, Center Force, Moser 8.8, driveshaft safety hoop, Stainless Header 4x1x4 headers, Gas-N-sidepipes, rad shroud, Wilwoods, NO PS/PB, heater/defroster, heated seats, wipers, Herb door panels, Dynamat Extreme sound/heat dampening, premium Rodtop top, Fast Freddie lexan wind screen, Nitto 555R, drop trunk battery, drop trunk storage,

  5. #5
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    My gen 1 runs around 180 under normal conditions. Up to 210 in NC summer city traffic. Have a large multi-quart replacement FFR style tank but there was still an occasional issue of losing coolest. You can see the old large capacity tank on the PS F panel.

    Went with a MOROSO coyote tank. It mimics the stock FORD coyote tank in the Mustang GT. Have not lost a drop in 6,000+ miles. Nice feature its self burping with trapped air release hoses from the top of the DS head & the radiator.

    As I said mine is a MOROSO but there are competing units with the same functionality.

    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '13/TKO-600
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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    I liked the idea of the moroso overflow tank, but I couldn't find any guide to how the lines are run (I am not familiar enough with modern engine set ups to do it by guesswork. Were you able to find instructions?

    Thank you!

  7. #7
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by briankauf View Post
    I liked the idea of the moroso overflow tank, but I couldn't find any guide to how the lines are run (I am not familiar enough with modern engine set ups to do it by guesswork. Were you able to find instructions?

    Thank you!
    Talked about it here in my build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post220495

    A diagram of the setup is on page 5 of these instructions. Ignore that it's not the exact engine as yours. So far, all Coyote's I've see are the same. https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...6007-A50NA.pdf
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  8. #8
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    If you are using the FFR supplied rad filler connection supplied with the complete kit, it has a single take off for the expansion tank. A larger cylindrical tank from summit is $55. It mounts in the same location as the unit from FFR. As outlined in the FFR instructions, you cap off the two ports used with the $175 Moroso Mustang tank (using caps supplied in the Coyote complete kit) and help to keep the engine bay less cluttered.
    MkIV #7854, Kit picked up September 2012, Coyote/BOSS 302 intake tuned at 488HP, TKO600, Center Force, Moser 8.8, driveshaft safety hoop, Stainless Header 4x1x4 headers, Gas-N-sidepipes, rad shroud, Wilwoods, NO PS/PB, heater/defroster, heated seats, wipers, Herb door panels, Dynamat Extreme sound/heat dampening, premium Rodtop top, Fast Freddie lexan wind screen, Nitto 555R, drop trunk battery, drop trunk storage,

  9. #9
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Had these from answering a similar question.
    To DS cylinder head - the little straight pipe they show to burp from

    To the radiator upper drain petcock. You remove the petcock & screw in a bayonett fitting.

    From port off the heater hose adapter on the DS to fitting on the bottom of the tank.

    You can see two of the three hoses in the full engine picture I posted. FWIW some guys are running one of the over-sized Summit replacement tanks. I run my car daily all year round & local summer traffic was a problem, could not get it to work for me. Think I paid $135 for the
    MOROSO tank.

    Prices float so check around Jegs & American Muscle has it now for $152

    https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/63...iABEgLlifD_BwE


    There are a few flavors so get the one that looks like the one in the picture.
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 09-18-2018 at 03:19 PM.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '13/TKO-600
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  10. #10
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    As outlined in the FFR instructions, you cap off the two ports used with the $175 Moroso Mustang tank (using caps supplied in the Coyote complete kit) and help to keep the engine bay less cluttered.
    I would not recommend using the Moroso expansion tank with the FFR instructions for the radiator hook-up. That would make it a pretty expensive overflow tank, as noted, plus is not how it's designed to work. It duplicates the Mustang expansion tank, providing automatic burping, eliminates the T-filler, and is a closed system so never dumps fluid. It's arguably a better setup but it does take three extra hoses. Two small ones and one larger under the tank.

    Many also successfully use how it's shown in the FFR instructions. Just with a slightly larger overflow tank. Builders choice.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-18-2018 at 09:16 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  11. #11
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    Thanks, I'm going to go ahead and switch to the expansion tank set up. I really appreciate the help everyone!!

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